@rocky-x: Creases, doesn't stick and easily gets peeled back (requiring all new tape) when popping a bead back from the rim by hand. Even the guy in the video has to help it along with Gorilla tape because it doesn't have any tack. Very easy to puncture with a plastic dull tire lever (again, usually when trying to remove the first bit a tire - I do things by hand the rest of the way). Let's not forget "insultingly expensive".
@rocky-x: Not very sticky (even in the video he used gorilla tape to get it to stay), creases easily, too/thick stiff to mold well to the contours of most rims etc, punctures really easily.
@rock Stan's is Tesa 4289 and Stan calls it "Yellow Spoke Tape". I was selling 4289 to Dave Thomas "Dave's Speed Dream Wheels" in the late 90s. Dave showed it to Stan, Stan contacted me and I started selling it to him. We started using it on wheels at our bike shop as light weight rim tape starting around 1992. I have a friend who was in the sand sports business and he was buying paddle tires from Skat-Trak in Calimesa California around 1991. The tires were shipped with 4289 to compress them down to a smaller size to save on shipping. That's how I found the tape in the beginning. I sold the tape to Stan for about one year before he found out what it was, and stopped buying from me....
@ghill28: I hate Gorilla tape - leaves a mess and honestly, never had an issue with Stans peeling back or puncturing w/tire iron....I honestly don't know how you'd puncture with tire iron because it's never close to the tape to begin with at least with how I've been doing it the last 15+ years.
The biggest issue I have is where it overlaps it can come undone over the course of several months, but I try to overlap several inches and all adhesion areas are wiped with DA.
@kilz: LOL, 16 seconds in "...you can use Gorilla/Duct tape...". I think Stan's tape is way, way, better than the other 2 even if it costs more. But TBH, I've never used Stan's Tape. So, I can't say whether Stan's is good or not. But I can say that I would never put Gorilla/Duct tape on the rims.
Stan's is total pain in the ass BUT Peaty's is the worst sh*t. It's freaking evil since it is very easy to apply and being transparent is great. However after removal it leaves all the glue on the rim, and this is a glue from hell, be it alcohol or solvent, it takes hours to remove it. Of course this typically happens the night before the ride.
Ape here using gorilla tape for all my tubeless needs... as long as your rim is clean'ish when you put it on it's worked great for me. 1 inch = 25.4 mm (*Disclaimer this might not work as well in extremely hot climates, feel free to chime in)
It is hysterical how many people still use Stan's tape. Do yourself a favor and grab some Hold Fast Cycling tape. It's priced like a roll of tape should be.
@meathooker: I'm sure Gorilla and Duct tapes are legit, but would you use it if it leaves behind a huge mess after it's been on there for a period of time? Also, Gorilla tape is heavy and thick.
@terb4044: That is a great story, thanks for sharing. I just checked on Amazon - a roll of Tesa 4289 is 1" wide (24mm) x 60yards long for $17. Stan's sells a comparable width of 25mm wide but only 10yards long for $13.
@davec113: I found Joe's Sealant to be absolutely terrible, getting all clumpy after a short time in storage, while Stan's sealant has performed really well. Can add similar experiences with Stan's rim tape though and currently exploring alternatives. So far the best has been the pre-taped Nukeproof wheels
@petemacmtb: thanks for this! I love the description for their tape. Spot on. I need some tape to redo my gravel setup, I'll give this ago.
There's no way tubeless tape is special tape. The cycling world just put their marketing spin on it. I wonder what this type of tape was originally used for or intended for before cycling rebranded it?
@RadBartTaylor: The Hold Fast stuff isn't 4289 though! Tesa 4289 is not great, especially the wider you go. Plus free shipping, no tax, made in the USA for the Hold Fast tape.
@rat-race-wheels: yeah looks like it. I went down the research rabbit hole just now. It's just generic polypropylene tape. Looks like anyone could start a rim tape company with a couple grand and an Alibaba order hahah!
@petemacmtb: Sure, but Tesa 4289 seems to go from 1" to 2" wide everywhere I've looked. I've had much better luck using tape that's a bit wider than the rim id rather than narrower tape down the center or in 2 layers on the left and right sides, it peels up MUCH easier than 1 layer of wider tape.
Try green PET tape, you’ll thank me later. I go around three times and it’s GTG. Also, gorilla sucks. It makes a mess and it’s heavy in the worst part of the wheel to add weight.
Surprised nobody has mentioned DT Swiss tubeless tape. Works great! Flexible, somehow doesn't feel sticky, but is way tackier than Stan's, much easier to apply. I have even un-rolled and re-used tape when sistering over a new rim several times.
@hydraulica: I guess acetone will likely do the same job. Same with gasoline. But how does the paint and decals stand up to these solvents? What about for the lamination with carbon rims?
@meathooker: I had totally forgotten about that. Gosh, they ditched a whole team based on an individual behavior. In a probably sad way, I hope, for them, there were bigger "things" behind the curtain to justify such a move.
My tips: Buy a cheap compressor. Besides being good for beading difficult tires it has 100 other handy uses. Second, don't put the sealant in until after you know that your rim tap seal is good. I let the tire sit for while and make sure it holds air and then put the sealant in through the valve with that Stan's tool. If you do have an issue it means you save a mess.
Came here to mention your second tip - if the tire can't hold air without the sealant then you did something wrong. Go fix it without making a huge mess.
I used to blow em up, then remove the core and push the sealant through with the stan's syringe too, but now I'm too lazy to inflate them twice and wash out the syringe, so it's tape, pour and pray.
Everybody should buy a cheap pancake compressor though, or at least have one amongst your set of friends. When you're not inflating tubeless tires you'll be air nailing baseboard or blowing out scary spiderwebs from your garage/workshop.
After fitting the tape, I inflate with an inner tube and leave overnight. This really fixes the tape down well and gives new tires the right shape. Then when you come to make it all tubeless leave one side of the tire on the rim when removing the tube, then it works like a dream...
@vinay: some tyre/rim combos are just a pita. I've been doing tubeless for years, but I have to use the Giant high pressure canister about 50% of the time, and a few weeks ago had a road bike tyre that wouldn't seat even with that - had to rummage in the tool box for a dusty CO2 cartridge which did the job
@rrolly: With an asymmetrical rim, snap both tire beads in place using a tube, then remove the tube by unseating ONLY the side of the tire that corresponds to the side of the rim with the wider shelf. That will minimize the faff required to get it to seat up again tubelessly.
@rrolly: Offset rims, is that the same as an asymmetrical cross section? My Syntace rims are asymmetric, look pretty much the same as the Ryde Trace 29 (so with a 29mm inner width). Even a mini-pump works for installing the tire, though I'm using ProCore (as that's what the rim is designed for). In the instruction video for ProCore you can see Steffi Marth use a mini pump on this combo too. But yeah, I've never used that one without ProCore. Is it because the center channel is offset with respect to both rim beads so that one tire bead has to travel further than the other?
@vinay: Yes, the same as asymmetrical. They are difficult to seat because the one spoke hole line lets air escape under the bead since it leaves a little divot after it's been taped.
@FuzzyL: Well, there's the TRY-1 drinks tray, the PNT-5 pint glass, the SPG-1 stainless steel pint glass, the BO-2 bottle opener, the BO-3 keychain bottle opener, the BO-4 waiter's corkscrew and bottle opener, and the tragically discontinued BO-5 wall-mount bottle opener (in the style of a water bottle cage, with matching bottle to catch the caps). Anyway, I hear there's plenty of Bier in Deutschland so I'm sure you'll figure out the rest ;-)
I’ve taped hundreds of rims. IMO the best tape currently on the market is Teravail (rebranded whiskey). It’s sticky, durable, and comes in many widths. Clean rim with alcohol before install. A trick I do after install is mount an old tire and tube to the rim and inflate to about 40lbs and let it sit for an hour to force any bubbles out. I then follow up with Module Red to protect the tape. It’s time consuming, but worth it. As another commenter mentioned, inflate the tire to seat the bead first, then pour sealant in using a Stans injector (I just use it as a funnel). I’ve had the best luck using Orange Seal Endurance.
@hardtailpunter: At university I used to work at a bar, where we got many bachelorette parties. From that experience I’d say Bayley’s doesn’t seal very well, a slight mistake in dosage, and it will not stay in.
Although we've degenerated into which rim tape is best, I enjoy these tech videos. Even knowing how to do something, it's good to see others' techniques and learn something new.
So without fail I have installed a variety of different types of Maxxis tires on different rims with my hands. No other tire brand I have encountered installs nearly as easily... What is the Maxxis secret??
@jaydawg69: Hmm... could be? I can install the DD version of a DHR on my rim with my hands. I could not get a Specialized Butcher T9 on a rim without a tire iron.
@teo7z: I run Specialized tires and always able to do it by hand. Even the Gravity ones. The secret is too keep pinching the sidewalls over and over to get the bead in the inner channel as that will make the tire the smallest . A bucket and gloves are a huge help
@jaydawg69: this is so funny, I have exactly the opposite experience. Maxxis are super easy to install, while Spesh makes me drip sweat and leave with numb fingers This is on all the wheels I had experience with ( Bontragger, Revel, i9)
I think you've just been lucky with the rim or profile, because I've taken a tire easily off one wheel and failed to get it onto another without destroying the tape.
@plyawn: true! I have installed Maxxis, Vee and Michelin on the same rim with the same amount of tape. Maxxis was fine, Vee was a bit of a pain and Michelin was a huge pita. Nearly impossible to fit, even with levers.
@IntoTheEverflow: Do people even bother installing a tire without pushing the opposite end into the center channel then? The only alternative to the center channel is two off-center channels (Spank). Either way, if it isn't commonplace already, don't forget to always finish at the valve. After all, that's the only place where the center channel is already occupied. So to do the final bit (near the valve), put the wheel vertical with the valve down. Push the bead into the center channel with both thumbs at the end opposite to the valve and then drive both hands down in the opposite direction towards the valve. So that everything is as deep down into the center channel as possible and equally important, that all the play there was along the tire bead has been pushed towards the valve. This gives you most room to push the final bit of the tire (so near the valve) over the rim wall.
Commenting on myself here. Yesterday I installed a Michelin Wild Mud Advanced (XC tire) on a Sun Ringle Inferno 27 rim with the Specialized Rim strip and it was a breeze! Went on easily, could pump it to two psi with my floor pump, holds air right away. It's all down to the combination and tolerances.
Good tips. If you find there are bubbles in the Stan's tape then use a heat gun to apply gentle heat (warm to touch not hot) and run your finger down the centre.
Saw a tip from Youtube where the gal added electrical tape on top of the Stans. I do this, adds minimal weight and make the whole job last longer and work well through multiple tire removal and replacements. Sometimes the Stans will peel off at the edge when swapping tires and the bit of electrical tape is a nice, if not ugly, boge (bodge?).
@LucaP I run tubes and Tannus on my hardtail because I am rough on the rear wheel and I would rather suffer a slight increase in frequency of air leaks for ease of repair (especially trail side). Full suspension has DH cases, Cushcore and carbon hoops. If I need a repair with that setup its going to be a doozey anyway you figure.
I tried Tannus for a while but really didn't like it. It stiffens the running surface yet doesn't stabilize the sidewalls, it feels really weird until you run quite high pressures.
@vinay: True, very little side wall support. I've torn through tires (EXO+) and the side wall of a Tannus. They do help a little with pinch flats but ultimately its the ease of installation that is a huge selling point.
If anyone is in a place with cacti I wonder if the Tannus makes sense?
1. In a pinch, or late Sunday afternoon when the only thing open is Home Depot, clear (or black if you like) Gorilla tape just works. I've had it on rims for years and it hasn't failed me. Cut width to suit your rim. 2. As for adding sealant, mount the tire bead completely on one side and 3/4 on the other side. Leave the unmounted section at the 6 o'clock position, and pour in the sealant here. Rotate the tire 180 degrees and mount the remaining 1/4 of the bead. 3. As mentioned, air compressors are so incredibly useful for filling tire amongst a few hundred other things.
Anyone else have issues with a brand new alloy wheel that is "tubeless ready" having sealant leak out from the seam? I picked up a Surly gravel bike a few months ago and one wheel still refuses to hold air for more than 3-4 days. Was planning to re-tape the wheel in the near term but was curious if others have run into this before.
I’ve had this happen to seams that have a slight gap. I’ve used a strip of rim tape sideways from wall to wall to completely seal it with success. But yeah, if the gap is significant don’t waste your time and warranty the rim/wheel. Retape the new rim making sure you are using tape that will completely span the rim from wall to wall.
This for sure, available in all-sorts of widths and dirt cheap. I find I need to give it 2 wraps to avoid getting damaged when changing tires, single wrap on the xc rims as those 6 grams of extra tape make it unrideable.
Next time I need to re-tape I am going to experiment with hockey sock tape. It stretches and seems to self-alamgamate a bit, and is cheap as chips. Doesn't really leave a residue either.
@davec113: Yes, run at least 2 layers overlap in the center section. You can do 3 layers but unnecessary. The Kapton/Polyimide tape is actually quite strong with 2 layers. These tapes are fairly light. So, even 3 layers of tape doesn't add all that much weight but it would be a waste to do so. Even using a super pointy needle, I needed to super heat it to puncture the 2-layer taping to set the valve core. For a spoke to puncture that tape, you must've had really loose spokes. Tighten them up!
@Otago: Lots of options on AliExpress for us New Zealanders: Great success with ZTTO, AliExpress Kapton (can also get from trademe) and numerous other AliExpress options. I usually run a length of Kapton around the rim, then any other tubeless tape on top. As with anything alcohol on the rim and heat gun or hair dryer on the rim to help the adhesive stick before application.
@KennyWatson: Yeah, if you buy from Spank. I usually get 2 rolls (33m per roll 25mm or 30mm) for like $10! So, $5/roll. Someone is laughing all the way to the bank! One roll can do at least 5 wheelsets! That's insane if someone actually pays $50/roll!
@CSharp: hadn't noticed the "new" Amazon price. Looked at my history i paid like 13 $cad 2 years ago....crazy their want 50$ now....Ali express it for sure....
@pink505: There are always some crazy pricing on Amazon.ca than there are for Amazon.com I find. Looks like you can still get some Kapton tape for like $10-$15 per 30m roll. This is double or triple the prices during the pandemic. Luckily I bought enough to set up 20 wheelsets LOL. It really sucks that Amazon.ca allow price gouging like this. Prices in the US are still at least reasonable.
I didnt see anyone else mention it, so I will. when installing whatever brand tubeless rim tape, install the tyre, then an innertube, inflate & leave it inflated overnight. when you remove the tyre the next day, the innertube has compressed the rim tape firmly to the rim.
additional "tricks" 1) start by cleaning the inside of the rim with isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner to remove any oily or adhesive residue, 2) gently heat rim with a hair dryer (helps make the tape soft and conforms to the inside of the rim better), 3) heat a long 6mm bolt with a blowtorch and use this to melt/burn the presta valve hole in the tape (this prevents the tape from rupturing/splitting at the valve hole) 4) set up the tire with a tube first to max tire/rim pressure to really push the tape into the rim and let it sit for a few minutes All these little details have made for a much higher rate of success at our shop
Thanks for sharing! I also like to clean the inside of the tire with isoprop to remove leftover stuff from manufacturing. I feel like it helps, but I am not sure. Seems like it's really not that simple, @henryquinney
Unfortunately this video is a miss. Tubeless newbies need help with width, they need help figuring with how to get the overlap down neat without contamination with skin oil etc (especially with Stans as pictured), and they shouldn't be given the impression that adding sealant before seating the tire is a good or default way for a first-time installer.
Don't have to ever worry about tape with bonty wheels ..never a hassle there tubeless system works Great and the wheels are great to and when u think of commentating on how bonty sucks .. your a kook and I don't care what u think..they work great .. kooks just have this stigma ..it's not cool enough..haha..barneys
We have to do something. There's just like gigabytes and gigabytes of people bumbling through the shop. Which is great, like, you can remember it. It's fine to document your adventures and things on GoPro, like, go for it, but I do feel like maybe uploading it to YouTube is too much.
Hoping to forget all this. Tubeless has been great for me, but inconvenient and messy at times. What's the consensus on switching to lightweight tubes, lightweight casing, and Tannus tube armor? Seems to be comparable in weight vs tape + sealant + gravity casing.
I hadn’t heard of tannus tube armor before your comment, but it looks like it does very little to prevent the most common tube flats: pinch flats/snake bikes. The foam is only 1-2mm by the bead, and I don’t see that preventing pinch flats unless you run crazy (aka pre-tubeless era) pressure, killing grip and feeling. Anyone try them?
I went from having tubes to tubeless setup. I still have tubes as my backup, which I did have to use on one of my rides due to a leak around my valve core and the sealant wouldn't seal. I got home and re-sealed it after retaping the second layer and put new sealant in and the valve core area sealed.
I've also tried the Tannus tube armor. Great idea but it's extremely hard to execute! My god, it took over 2 hours for me to get the tire seated onto the rim with that insert with the tube inside! It doesn't weigh that much out of the box, but after putting it in, your whole wheel weighs a lot more! I think if you have an e-bike, weight is not an issue and I'd go with this in addition to pouring some Slime sealant (or some other brand that doesn't dry out over time) inside the tube as added protection. I'd do this for the wheel where the motor resides because you don't want to take off the wheel because of the wire. If it's for a mid-Drive system, I think the Tannus Armor tube insert alone is good enough. For normal trail riding on a regular MTB, no way I'll go with the Tannus Amor with tube.
Tubeless is the way to go for trail riding and I use the Orange Sealant because it's pretty clean. Even if you squirt all over place going through the valve, you can wipe the mess up or wait for the stuff to dry and peel/rub the stuff off. Once it's dry inside the tire, you can rub off the residue or just leave it on. It's just a really thin coating and probably doesn't even add any more weight to the tire.
You'll wish you stayed tubeless if you try this. I used to work at a shop that installs a lot of Tannus tube armour and I can tell you it is not worth it. Heavier, pretty much no pinch flat protection, and hard to install unless you've done tens of them. A lot of them fit tight enough when new even when trimmed correctly that you have to install the tube with almost no pressure and it sometimes ends up pinching itself as you inflate it. Lots of talc helps some but it's messy as well. It works fine for kids bikes and people who leisure ride and just want to not have flats, but in a performance based scenario such as MTB it's not worth it IMO.
Have plenty of experience with Tannus Armor and Tubolito with different tire compounds. Here is everything you need to know.
- If you want the most bomproof combo in the sense of never f*cking with tires ever, a DH casing tire with Tannus Armor is the way to go. I run it on my DH bike, and just pretty much stopped caring about running tires into ledges. You definitely cant run as low of a PSI as you can with tubeless because it will still pinch flat, but you have more room compared to pure tubes. Grip is not really any different that I have noticed with the exception of loose dry dust, where tubeless will deform a bit better when leaned over.
- The lightweight tubes with the armor however are somewhat of an issue, as the standard mtb size compresses the armor quite a bit when inflated. While you do have protection aspect (a bit more even since the foam gets more dense), you can't really rideout on a flat flat as the armor gets compressed to about 2mm-3mm thickness. You are supposed to run the standard armor with tubes designed for 1.5-1.95, which are only made in standard rubber. With this setup, you gain a little weight per wheel, but you also gain more compliance and better puncture resistance. Ive tried running mine with tubolito road tubes, but there is definitely not enough sidewall pressure for me to feel comfortable. Ive settled on just just dealing with compressed foam setup to red
- Weight wise, DH tires tubeless vs trail tires with armor and lightweight tubes are about the same. That being said, I tried running a trail casing tire on the dh bike but I did hit a sharp rock hard enough to puncture through the casing and the armor. You gain about 1 lb per wheel with armor+tube, which you can feel compared to a pure tubeless setup, especially if you like to hop around on your bike.
-Tubolito without armor is very good for trail riding where you run 25+ psi. The tires are as responsive as tubeless, but the risk of pinch flat is there, so you have to run higher pressure. Protection wise, modern DH casing tires are pretty good at deflecting sharp things that would puncture the tube. Most people who ride hardpack don't really benefit from lower pressure, so this is an option.
- Tubolito tubes have shitty valves, especially with the black valve extenders. The newer versions went away without the extenders which seem to hold better, but I would recommend replacing the valves with better ones, as well as throwing a little sealant or loctite on the valve threads when you install it. Overall, a well setup tubeless tire will hold pressure longer than these though.
- Repairs can be easier and harder. Small punctures on tubeless you can seal with plugs quite easier and faster than taking out a tube. Larger cuts however are way easier to repair (no tubeless sealant to clean up, easier to reseat the tire, e.t.c) and you can avoid scrapping a tire.
My goto setup is this - dh/enduro bike that is already heavy get tannus armor+dh casing. I don't ride hard enough for the extra weight to matter, and its more important that I get as many laps as possible during the day without taking time out for repairs. Everything else gets tubeless. I highly recommend investing in an air compressor though for tubeless setups, and adding one layer of tape
@KickFlipABike: Thanks for the details man! This is the feedback I was looking for. I've never had a day ending flat with tubeless DoubleDown and Cushcore. Sounds like I would have to sacrifice adding weight to get the same result with Tannus. At least I have a compressor, so that's one pain I don't have.
I personally went back to using normal tubes after getting fed up with tubeless. No fancy tubes, just normal tubes in either DH or SuperG casing depending on the bike. I run the same wheel setup (DT EX471's) on all my bikes and the same pressures I ran tubeless.
I think only former professionals should do TECH VIDEOS. TO MANY "INFLUENCERS AND CONTENT MAKERS" out there. Dont throw stones when you live in a glass house
The biggest issue I have is where it overlaps it can come undone over the course of several months, but I try to overlap several inches and all adhesion areas are wiped with DA.
holdfastcycling.com/product-category/tubeless
There's no way tubeless tape is special tape. The cycling world just put their marketing spin on it. I wonder what this type of tape was originally used for or intended for before cycling rebranded it?
Also, gorilla sucks. It makes a mess and it’s heavy in the worst part of the wheel to add weight.
Their sealant though? hell no.
Everybody should buy a cheap pancake compressor though, or at least have one amongst your set of friends. When you're not inflating tubeless tires you'll be air nailing baseboard or blowing out scary spiderwebs from your garage/workshop.
Saw a tip from Youtube where the gal added electrical tape on top of the Stans. I do this, adds minimal weight and make the whole job last longer and work well through multiple tire removal and replacements. Sometimes the Stans will peel off at the edge when swapping tires and the bit of electrical tape is a nice, if not ugly, boge (bodge?).
@LucaP I run tubes and Tannus on my hardtail because I am rough on the rear wheel and I would rather suffer a slight increase in frequency of air leaks for ease of repair (especially trail side). Full suspension has DH cases, Cushcore and carbon hoops. If I need a repair with that setup its going to be a doozey anyway you figure.
If anyone is in a place with cacti I wonder if the Tannus makes sense?
2. As for adding sealant, mount the tire bead completely on one side and 3/4 on the other side. Leave the unmounted section at the 6 o'clock position, and pour in the sealant here. Rotate the tire 180 degrees and mount the remaining 1/4 of the bead.
3. As mentioned, air compressors are so incredibly useful for filling tire amongst a few hundred other things.
www.amazon.ca/Polyimide-Adhesive-Resistant-Insulation-Anodizing/dp/B08NWBG6JJ?th=1
Great success with ZTTO, AliExpress Kapton (can also get from trademe) and numerous other AliExpress options.
I usually run a length of Kapton around the rim, then any other tubeless tape on top. As with anything alcohol on the rim and heat gun or hair dryer on the rim to help the adhesive stick before application.
1) start by cleaning the inside of the rim with isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner to remove any oily or adhesive residue,
2) gently heat rim with a hair dryer (helps make the tape soft and conforms to the inside of the rim better),
3) heat a long 6mm bolt with a blowtorch and use this to melt/burn the presta valve hole in the tape (this prevents the tape from rupturing/splitting at the valve hole)
4) set up the tire with a tube first to max tire/rim pressure to really push the tape into the rim and let it sit for a few minutes
All these little details have made for a much higher rate of success at our shop
I also like to clean the inside of the tire with isoprop to remove leftover stuff from manufacturing. I feel like it helps, but I am not sure.
Seems like it's really not that simple, @henryquinney
3M TALC Scotch Strapping Tape 8896, Blue, 24 mm x 55 m a.co/d/6WW8oXB
I've also tried the Tannus tube armor. Great idea but it's extremely hard to execute! My god, it took over 2 hours for me to get the tire seated onto the rim with that insert with the tube inside! It doesn't weigh that much out of the box, but after putting it in, your whole wheel weighs a lot more! I think if you have an e-bike, weight is not an issue and I'd go with this in addition to pouring some Slime sealant (or some other brand that doesn't dry out over time) inside the tube as added protection. I'd do this for the wheel where the motor resides because you don't want to take off the wheel because of the wire. If it's for a mid-Drive system, I think the Tannus Armor tube insert alone is good enough. For normal trail riding on a regular MTB, no way I'll go with the Tannus Amor with tube.
Tubeless is the way to go for trail riding and I use the Orange Sealant because it's pretty clean. Even if you squirt all over place going through the valve, you can wipe the mess up or wait for the stuff to dry and peel/rub the stuff off. Once it's dry inside the tire, you can rub off the residue or just leave it on. It's just a really thin coating and probably doesn't even add any more weight to the tire.
- If you want the most bomproof combo in the sense of never f*cking with tires ever, a DH casing tire with Tannus Armor is the way to go. I run it on my DH bike, and just pretty much stopped caring about running tires into ledges. You definitely cant run as low of a PSI as you can with tubeless because it will still pinch flat, but you have more room compared to pure tubes. Grip is not really any different that I have noticed with the exception of loose dry dust, where tubeless will deform a bit better when leaned over.
- The lightweight tubes with the armor however are somewhat of an issue, as the standard mtb size compresses the armor quite a bit when inflated. While you do have protection aspect (a bit more even since the foam gets more dense), you can't really rideout on a flat flat as the armor gets compressed to about 2mm-3mm thickness. You are supposed to run the standard armor with tubes designed for 1.5-1.95, which are only made in standard rubber. With this setup, you gain a little weight per wheel, but you also gain more compliance and better puncture resistance. Ive tried running mine with tubolito road tubes, but there is definitely not enough sidewall pressure for me to feel comfortable. Ive settled on just just dealing with compressed foam setup to red
- Weight wise, DH tires tubeless vs trail tires with armor and lightweight tubes are about the same. That being said, I tried running a trail casing tire on the dh bike but I did hit a sharp rock hard enough to puncture through the casing and the armor. You gain about 1 lb per wheel with armor+tube, which you can feel compared to a pure tubeless setup, especially if you like to hop around on your bike.
-Tubolito without armor is very good for trail riding where you run 25+ psi. The tires are as responsive as tubeless, but the risk of pinch flat is there, so you have to run higher pressure. Protection wise, modern DH casing tires are pretty good at deflecting sharp things that would puncture the tube. Most people who ride hardpack don't really benefit from lower pressure, so this is an option.
- Tubolito tubes have shitty valves, especially with the black valve extenders. The newer versions went away without the extenders which seem to hold better, but I would recommend replacing the valves with better ones, as well as throwing a little sealant or loctite on the valve threads when you install it. Overall, a well setup tubeless tire will hold pressure longer than these though.
- Repairs can be easier and harder. Small punctures on tubeless you can seal with plugs quite easier and faster than taking out a tube. Larger cuts however are way easier to repair (no tubeless sealant to clean up, easier to reseat the tire, e.t.c) and you can avoid scrapping a tire.
My goto setup is this - dh/enduro bike that is already heavy get tannus armor+dh casing. I don't ride hard enough for the extra weight to matter, and its more important that I get as many laps as possible during the day without taking time out for repairs. Everything else gets tubeless. I highly recommend investing in an air compressor though for tubeless setups, and adding one layer of tape