Specifications | ||
Price | $7199 | |
Travel | 120mm | |
Rear Shock | Fox Factory Float DPS | |
Fork | Fox Factory 34 29", 51mm offset, FIT4- 130mm | |
Cassette | Shimano XT M-8000 11-46t | |
Crankarms | Race Face Aeffect SL 30t – 175mm | |
Rear Derailleur | Shimano XTR GS 11 speed | |
Shifter Pods | Shimano XT M8000 | |
Handlebar | Phoenix Team Carbon - 460mm | |
Stem | Phoenix Team Enduro/Trail - 55mm | |
Grips | Phoenix Team Padloc | |
Brakes | Shimano XT M-8000 | |
Wheelset | Reynolds Blacklabel Enduro Wide Trail | |
Hubs | Industry Nine | |
Tires | Maxxis Minion DHRII 29" x 2.4" / Maxxis Rekon 29" x 2.4" | |
Seat | Phoenix WTB Pro Vigo | |
Seatpost | Fox Transfer 150mm |
About Us
Contacts FAQ Terms of Use Privacy Policy Sign Up! SitemapAdvertise
AdvertisingCool Features
Submit a Story Product Photos Videos Privacy RequestRSS
Pinkbike RSS Pinkbike Twitter Pinkbike Facebook Pinkbike Youtube Pinkbike Instagram
function over form is the counter-principle to your principle. 'Really good drivetrain and brakes' that are also very cheap and not 'top dollar components' that you also mention.
If you're cool with paying over $7k for a bike with non-fancy coating suspension, go for it. I am not. And that was the point of my post.
Think about it this way... There are NX builds out there that cost as much as the Race XT. And the XT drivetrain is far superior to NX. Even the SLX is better than the NX drivetrain.
I don't give a f*ck what you ride. I'm sure you're having fun on whatever the hell you're riding now. But you don't get to tell me and others here how to spend my money. You don't get to tell me what's worth buying or not on my bikes. Period. I'M SORRY YOU'RE OFFENDED BY THE WAY I CHOOSE TO SPEC AND BUILD MY BIKE.
But in any case, have a great day. I hope my choice of fork coating doesn't ruin your day or entire week for that matter.
I think this is a perfect bike for those of us (a lot more riders than realize it probably) who don't live in the PNW, or in the high country Rockies (Keystone, other parks etc). Living on the front range, riding Moab, Wyoming, etc. this bike is just about perfect. It's outgunned on an Enduro course but that's not what it's for. If you're doing a lot of trail riding this is great; you can ride far longer without wearing out from pedaling a trampoline up the hills, it can handle rowdy stuff, and it is a joy to ride. Probably the favorite mountain bike I've ever owned.
Unfortunately it’s dumb shits like you that keep this circus going... thanks!!
I still ride a 2014 BMC trailfox with 142 rear spacing, 150mm of travel, and I currently have a 29x2.6 rear tire on it (just experimenting; I'm probably going to go back to 2.4). The BMC is a twin link design, so it also has to deal with a more complex linkage around the BB area. No 142+ or anything else, just 142.
Although now that I look at the SBC document they did run wider hub flanges (I assume for wheel stiffness) so I'll stick with being half-right.
Happy to do my part to keep the circus going because it's brought us to the place where we are today with bikes, which is amazing. Shit will come and go and the market will sort itself out, but I doubt highly that we'll see this standard go away.
Who says you have to choose? In some cases rear subframe stiffness may be the rational, however in the case of 27.5 + the extra space also gives engineers more wiggle room to work with when it comes to making everything fit with acceptable tolerance (thinking tire and crank clearance at the chain stays near the BB).
You've picked a really insignificant detail to get all worked up about - good luck with that. Don't like it, vote with your wallet, and go ride, then ride some more. If a simple thing like an axle width/spacing gets you this worked up maybe think about getting your blood pressure checked.
Butt, you know, keep on rolling the way you are, it's a good look for you.
And, yeah, if supporting supper b00st riles you up, I'm going to make sure it's on every bike I purchase until MegaB00st is available.
Picture should be updated with the one that shows the giant loop under the BB. Not that tidy compared to many other bikes where it counts.
I think all the marketing / cliche bs is for newbies.. people who are getting into the sport and haven’t been exposed to the same shit over and over.
When you question their bs, it’s shut down with, don’t stop innovation man!!
The fact that I had to get a thread-in PF BB to eliminate creaks on my Mach 6 disputes this claim.
I'm all like "Dude had to crawl through a lot rhodo & downed Hemlock to get that shot".
I haven’t ridden a dropper shorter than 150mm in five years, current droppers are all 170mm on three bikes: XC 120/140, Enduro 140/160, and hardtail 120mm.
You missed the boat.
That said........I do hate steep seat angles.
Now chiropodists,they can kiss my @r$£.
"Handlebar Phoenix Team Carbon - 460mm"
Just need to win the lottery now,
I’m no dentist
I’d like to see how that bike rides with a 120mm fork, like an SC34, that’s a more reasonable for an XC bike. You start getting into 130-140mm forks and this kind of bike gets overwhelmed long before the fork; in other words, you need “a bigger boat”.
Which is reinforcey by the fact that bike journalists and product managers can't agree at all as to what fork offset actually does to bike handling. I have heard so many contradicting claims that there can be no doubt that most of it is marketing BS.
Just like no human rider can distinguish between boost and non-boost wheels in a blind test, but the hype train is still going.
There was no discernable difference in steering speed or input required to lean the bike over. 51mm forks will make the bike have a bit longer wheelbase making it a smidge more stable at higher speed. In climbs, I felt that the 44mm fork was better able to keep the front end down due to the wheel actually being closer to you, even while seated. And maneuverability, no discernible difference either. They both handled switchbacks the same way. Bombing down hills in a straight line, no difference.
My conclusion is that once you get used to a certain fork offset, your body adjusts to its characteristics and you get used to it. Then you jump on to something different, and your body gets used to the new thing. I don't believe that either one is superior to the other, but I do believe that one should stick with the recommended fork offset for the frame of their bike. The differences are subtle, but they are there. I just don't think it's the answer to all of MTBs problems.
Lastly, nice to see pivot make a reach decent enough for us big dudes.