You've got a few things going against you here. First, your sag setting is whack and you're asking for a world of hurt if you ride hard with that setup, not to mention that your bike is going to handle worse than a wagon full of large rocks. Aim for around 20%, regardless of what the recommended air pressure is. Adjust it from there; some riders prefer a bit more, some prefer a bit less. As for the fork being stuck down in its travel, that is easy to fix. With a Dorado air spring system, the poppet valve that allows the positive and negative air chambers to equalize is open when you screw the shock pump onto the valve. All that's happened is that the fork was probably down in its travel a bit when you last attached the pump, and when you unscrewed the pump the fork was then held down at this point. Attach your shock pump, adjust the pressure so you have a sensible amount of sag, and then pull the stanchions out so they're completely extended before unscrewing the pump. Your bike will now feel approximately twenty times better now that the fork isn't too soft and an inch too short. - Mike Levy |
Yes, Shimano's 11-speed mountain bike cassettes will work on a 9-speed freehub. This isn't the case with their 11-speed road bike cassettes, which need a different freehub body, but luckily you're riding a mountain bike and don't need to worry about that. That new cassette should install without any issues - enjoy the expanded gear range. - Mike Kazimer |
If your terrain is suitable for the Maxxis Minion DHF/Ardent combination, then you would also be happy with the DHR II or the High Roller II. The 2.4-inch version of the Ardent has a pretty aggressive tread (completely opposite of the wimpy 2.3-inch version), so the DHR II should brake better and climb about the same. The High Roller II is a popular tire anywhere the trails are beat up (bike park trails come to mind) and it provides all-around grip and a reasonably fast rolling tread. Try the Onza Ibex in a 2.4-inch. It is made at the same factory and is almost identical to the HR II tread pattern, but it has a grippier rubber compound and slightly taller tread blocks. The Ibex will meet your demand for better braking and climbing traction, and it corners faster than the HR II as well. Its transition blocks are better spaced, so you don't have to wait for the edging tread to catch when you lean the bike over. I have been riding both High Roller II and Ibex tires for a number of months and their rolling resistance feels exactly the same - a little slow on pavement, but they wake up considerably once they hit the dirt. - RC |
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You may need to put a zip tie into the dust seals to remove a "void" in the lowers.
Or you may have too much oil/grease in the solo air so the negative air chamber doesn't equalize properly.
Worked for me.
I'll try zip ties, removing nut and pulling methods.
It seems that you have a negative coil spring, so there is a minimum pressure tu put to extend the fork to the maximum. And the zip tie will only work air side, as you have an open bath if i'm not wrong.
Also check your oil levels.
Pulling method only work with dorado (or maybe other USD forks), as you inflate these forks thru the air piston's shaft, there is a machanism to connect both chambers when the pump push the valve's pin. It won't work at all with your fork, as you don't have any negative air spring.
Personally I've always ridden DHF front and rear for everything from DH to XC. Any attempts to deviate from this has led to disappointment
Also to answer the question of a great rear tire to pair with a front DHF, try out the new Aggressor. It rolls much faster than a High Roller II or DHR II on the rear while offering similar grip at the limit and improved climbing traction over both tires. DHF/Aggressor is the combo of the year.
Magic Mary front
Bontrager SE5 rear
I don't get all the HR2 comments about transitioning it over on the rear. It's an issue on the front but never found it matters on the rear.
+1 for Double-Down too, if your terrain calls for it.
I'm surprised that the Maxxis Aggressor wasn't mentioned. Maybe Maxxis is trying to clear out as many DHR2 and HR2 before they get left with too much inventory?
DHR2 front and rear seems like a very popular combo these days in BC
That's exactly my point.
Examples:
Ask Pinkbike. April.05 2016
Maxxis Aggressor?
(-no explanation needed)
Ask Pinkbike. Jan.26 2016
Bontrager SE4 or Maxxis DHR II Front Tire?
(- no mention of SE5 or other good tires)
We review lots of tires over the course of each year, including the SE5 that you keep mentioning: www.pinkbike.com/news/bontrager-se5-team-issue-tire-review-2015.html.
You guys are choosing the questions and answers, notice a pattern? Thanks for most of what you guys do, I'm just giving some constructive criticism.
Or just close call like 85-65?
It sounds like the fork is not performing as it should. When was it last serviced?
How does the minion SS cope with abrasive rocks and wear/punctures?
Same question for the Aggressor?
Cheers
i can vouch for the slaughter rear, its also cheeper then the Minion SS
cheers guys
Let me guess. Some dinosaur buddy of his from the old days is still holding a job at onza?
Just retire already so somebody else can take your place.
Just stick with 10 or 9 speed, do you really need one more gear?
A) when my Dad's nomad was running waaaay too soft and couldn't pop into the air properly, so I dialled lsc and rebound up front and rear to stiffen it.
And B) When my r2c2 boxxer with what I'm pretty sure is the stiffest spring was destroying my arms at a bikepark and I dialled the lsc down and increased low speed rebound to help compensate, also softened up the rear end to balance it.
Unless your bike feels noticeably wrong or you get on someone elses and it feels way better just ride the damn thing.
would you get a full day of bike park riding at Whistler on the Dorado (assuming multiple laps), or would it require resetting after lunch?
No one should be running 35% sag. There, I said it.
"Static sag should be 25-35% of travel."
Personally, I believe that the majority of riders are running their forks far too soft, even with 20 - 25% sag, but I'm not going to tell someone to go with a firmer spring rate than that. Using a percentage figure gives the average rider a number to shoot for, but it doesn't take many, many variables into account.