e*thirteen Announces Quick Fill Plasma Valve

 Boost is so 2019

 @pasteque51: PrestaSuperBoost157(TM)

 One thing to help the valve not get gummed up: When you pump up the tire, make sure the valve is not facing down. Blasts of air wil force the sealant into the valve while it's open.

 No you are wrong you don't do that. You need new valves.
By the way I have titanium valves that weigh 0.1 grams less and enable you to pump up your tires. It is also possible to pout sealant into the tires through these new valves too. I am selling them for $279 (they are 3d printed). Sorry, they only come in one color.
Keep in mind that they will be able to do all of the things that you claim to be able to do with your existing valves.

 @rcrocha: you can pump up your tires with them? Shut up and take my money!

 @rcrocha: for an extra $25 they will come out in colours next year.

 How dare you!!! That infringes on multiple patents that we have invested heavily in, and our lawyers will be in contact.

 @rcrocha: don’t tell anyone , silca will be along to rebrand your idea

 Did that with my Rimpacts and the insert stopped it flowing through, Still bunged the valve!

 Thank you, this is the obvious solution.

 yeah, but not requiring a tool to remove the core is a bonus.

 @Notmeatall: If I'm installing tires that a moot issue.

 @Compositepro: but more dildo shaped

 But with this you have the opportunity to accidentally unscrew the middle part of the valve from the little base inside the wheel, perhaps because some spilled sealant gummed up the middle joint, and then listen to the bit inside the wheel rolling around laughing at you...

 Thats why Reserve Fillmore is simply the best

 @juliuskliemmtb: Jesus, just got a pair of these and you're not wrong.

The only tubeless valve the LBS had otherwise never would have ponied up that much money. And no color anodizing !

Trading out the ability to unthread the valve core for double the bore size was brilliant. It's ridiculous how much air gets in there compared to my previous valves that I was so impressed with...which were E13 lol.

 @juliuskliemmtb: I was about to buy a set of Fillmores - sounds like you like them, yeah?

 @juliuskliemmtb: Do they work with CushCore though? I wanted to buy 76projects hi flow valves but they do not wot with thread-on pump heads. I am doomed because I run CushCore AND have Lezyne pump So I just unthread valve cores twice a year and have bit more money to spend on something else

 @suspended-flesh: I’ve been using them for a few months and I’m very happy with them. They work as advertised. No signs of clogging and I can pump up my usually difficult rim/tire combo no problem with the reserve valves.

 @juliuskliemmtb: I just ponied up for the Fillmore’s as well and dang, can’t believe I’m saying this, but worth the 50 bucks.

 @WhipNC: got them on all my bikes now, seat tyres no problem with a normal floor pump amongst other benefits

 @tomo12377: Agreed. They are quite impressive. Even more than you think they even could be. Also bought them for the the wife’s bike that I maintain.

 @G-Sport:

 @lkubica: Fillmore Valves work with Cushcore. They’re by far the best valves on the market right now. Hands down. It’s like this….what’s the highest flow? An open hole. What’s the best at blogging sealant from clogging your valve? A seal on the inside. Well then how do you release air for pressure adjustment? Well….. the narrowest rod that’s still structurally stable. Botta bing botta boom……you’ve got yourself the Fillmore Valves

 @nickfranko: Afraid you’ve confused “complex” and “different”. People who are afraid of change do that sometimes.

The basic sealing mechanism is exactly the same concept as a presta just with the seal moved to a more advantageous location. And the design eliminates the jam nut, the removable core threads, and the removable core seal. That’s called a “simplification” in case you were wondering.

 @Blackhat: Yeah, the only downside of Fillmore seems to be the price then.

 @lkubica: Assuming they hold up long term. The sealing mechanism looks like it could be more fragile than presta, but that comes with the territory of moving the seal head to an open space and having a larger opening. I doubt that will be a problem in practice though.

 @WhipNC: Prior to picking up the Fillmore's, did you remove your valve cores when adding sealant and seating your tires? I love it when a product solves a problem (at a reasonable price), but once I started removing my cores I've literally never had a problem.

 @lkubica: yes, I have a cushcore in the rear with the fillmore and you can definitely feel a little bit resistance when pushing the valve in but it’s no problem with any pump to do so.
The only thing is that you cant inject sealent through the valve with cushcore, because there isn’t enough pressure against the insert.
On the front I can inject sealent through the valve with just a minor tiny bit that goes out the side.

Best things ever!

 @nickfranko: If you don’t want them don’t buy them

 @rrolly: yes, I do remove the core before adding sealant and still do on my other bikes without the Fillmores. I also made the exact same comment about the product being silly and solving a problem I didn’t have, but clogging sealant wasn’t the thing. I don’t have to fire up the compressor with the Fillmores, they’re a better design in every way, and everything is quick and easy - no fiddly bits involved. Not sayin’ I’m gonna rush out to plunk down $50 a pop on the other two bikes, but I’m not gonna rule it out either. It’s the simple things, just sayin’.

 @WhipNC: I hear you. I don't know if I'm just lucky with my Stan's rims and Maxxis tires, but I don't have any issues seating the rim with my regular floor pump either. If I did, I guess these Fillmores would be on my list.

 @juliuskliemmtb: I was somewhat sceptical, but needed to empty my wallet in a passion purchase. I've got to say, they are bloody awesome. I never thought such a simple thing could impress me so much. Love the Reserve Filmore valves. They simply work and I can take them bike to bike as I need to. I especially love that crisp air closure sound when you take the pump head off. Like a solid Volvo door closing. Just satisfying.

 @rrolly: could also be that I’m just old and lazy! Either way, there’s a lot of cool stuff out there for us to talk about!

 This my friends is THE ANSWER. I ran Schrader on muni and it was so much easier to fill and the valves were less likely to clog or fail.

 TRUE!!! What is this death grip on presta valves??
My interpretation inside the mind of early and current tubeless engineers, designers and product managers:

"Hey we came up with this cool liquid that allows the tires to seal and you can stop using tubes."
"Rad, how do you get it in the tire?"
"Pour it in before you seed the bead. It's a bit messy, but we're still thinking about that.."
"Hey what if you inject it through the valve core?"
"you mean that tiny presta valve that all hardcore cyclist are obsessed with? You know a lot of riders think shrader valves are for rental bikes only."
"No what if we designed a better Shrader valve? Both for more reliable and better purpose functionality..."
"SHHHHUuTT your mouth! that's for 20 years from now when we run out of geo and suspension upgrades. Now is the time to get presta valves caked with latex kidney stones so people go nuts and have to buy $30+ new valves... they will look sleek, all the local shop techs will have a task to take up half their day and we can sell the crap out of this goop that will spill and dry left and right"
"Are you sure that's the best solu.." [Punched] [knocked out] [silenced]


At least this new product offering is in the same price range as the current, rather than some ridiculous $80 for tire valves

 @gossman: If I had to guess, it's the smaller hole is preferable when it comes to structural integrity, and qpuld require less material to reinforce the area, thus creating a stronger/lighter and more balanced rim. Overall, I think santa cruz has hit the nail on the head with the filmore valves. Ultimately both the Schrader and presta valves are antiquated, and not designed for use with sealant. That being said, this E13 valve solves none of the issues.

 I have a set of e*thirteen rims. I'd rather ask them to stop offering rims.

 Stan's does make a thread on schrader valve. Most rims, have plenty of extra material, so the tiny amount you need to remove to make a schrader valve fit won't affect strength. A lot of carbon rims are embossed at the valve stem, which probably means converting them is a no-go. (also the warranty!) I haven't tried to install some yet, but probably should on my bikes with 30mm internal Al rims.

 @BikesBoatsNJeeps: threaded Schrader are typically super short. I put them on a bike and can barely fit a chuck on to inflate the tire.

 @jomacba: This is 100 percent right and really makes a difference on 17mm road racing rims from 2003. Aaaaannnddd......that's why we all have them on our "high end" mountain bikes now.

 Don't shoot the messenger (ok, never mind) as I fully agree.

But...

"Why don't manufactures stick with one standard!"

Manufacturers stick to one standard.

"Why the f*ck aren't we changing standards!"

 @JSTootell: it's the wrong damn standard...sort of

 I used these Schader valves on one of my wheel sets just to see how they would work. Drilled out the presta hole to fit, no problems so far. But I never really had any problems with presta anyway, so I'm not converting every wheel I own.
www.amazon.com/dp/B099NBF9LY/?coliid=I1U7KW740WFMLO&colid=2J62T23PO2YD3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 @Tambo: I feel like MTB is in a good spot when the only holdover from road bikes left to complain about are valves.

 @jomacba: that’s correct. Another fun fact is that despite what you would think from the larger 8mm hole size, Schrader valves have the least amount of flow vs Fillmore and Prestas. It’s like the Presta with a micro core but it also has the spring which reduces flow. It’s not any better and it doesn’t have any provisions for adding sealant or preventing clogs

 @MTBikeBikeBike: Remove the core from a schrader valve and you can damn near drop a presta through the middle of it.

 Most aluminum rim manufacturers mention you can safely drill the valve hole up to fit a Schrader valve and I haven't heard of any that claims you can't. Even on narrower rims I've never had issues when doing this. One of my rims (a Spank Spike with a 28mm inner width) is a bit weird though as it basically has two off center channels (instead of a single center channel) and then a convex bulge in between where the valve goes. So when you drill the valve hole up, it extends towards both channels and the bent circle shape the rubber part of the tubeless valve has to seal is a bit weird. It does work though.

As for valve length, I've never had issues actually but it largely depends on the rim. The age of super high profile rims seems to be over and most seem low and wide, so that should work just fine.

 @BikesBoatsNJeeps: we could go full pointless and make a thread on shcraeder to presta adapter

 @ski-or-die: Since when was removing a Schrader core fun or easy? That area of the rim has always been the weak point. It’s not free re-estate. The larger the hole the weaker the rim. And for what advantages over the Fillmore Valve? The Shraders still gonna get clogged in the micro core and spring area with sealants these days sealing up to 8 mm

 @MTBikeBikeBike: what sealant *actually* seals an 8mm hole/cut??

 It takes literally seconds with a drill to convert them to schrader. I’ve done it to all the rims in our household now, including the carbon ones. You also get to use cheap tubeless stems that cost a few cents.

 @MTBikeBikeBike: It is exceptionally easy with a core removal tool.

I wasn’t trying to make any particular point, and am not personally offended by valves of any identity, simply stating there are in fact benefits and drawbacks to everything and life. Pick a valve and be a dick about it.

 @jomacba: If the MTB industry used Schrader I could more easily use the air-up and air-down gear I have in my 4x4. I still use it with an adapter, but still......

 @ski-or-die: Yep that's what air-down gear does on a truck. Big hole for sealant.

 @suspended-flesh: 6 of 1, half dozen of another. Ultimately, I believe all systems have room for improvement. I believe the filmore valves are a good step in the right direction. Has all the benefits of both Schrader and presta, with one caveat of needing to use an adapter for a Schrader to presta connection. The industry has spoken in the choice of presta, and it makes sense to only create new ideas with the real estate we currently have. I think we need to consider the affected componentry associated like rims for example. I know alot of people seem to feel there is no significant impact, however; I would whole heartedly disagree.
Let's take a rim for example with an O/D of 35mm. I would say that's a good average for what's current on the market today for most mountainbikes (I understand this depends on discipline)
Now let's compare the diameter of bothe a presta (6mm) and a Schrader (8mm).
This is a difference of 2mm or 28.57%.
For sake of keeping it simple we will assume a valve hole for a Schrader is 8mm, however in reality, that hole would need to be oversized to accept changes in manufacturing tolerances and ease of installation
So a 35mm rim with an 8mm hole will have 22% of the material removed which would require reinforcement in order to compensate for the loss of material in that area. Reinforcing is not done however with alloy rims in most cases as alloy rims are generally extruded, and reinforcing would add more cost to manufacturing. The result is a weak point in the rim.
That same rim with a presta valve at 6mm would see a reduction of 17% of material at that location.
That's a difference of 5%.
Might not sound like much, but in an industry of incremental advancements, I'd say it's significant enough to say of the two available options, from an engineering standpoint, the presta is favorable. The solution is to improve the valves, and proceed with advancing the technology in order to provide more reliable and intuitive products to the consumer. I don't think sticking with technology that is more than a century old is the solution for anything.
The challenge is getting industry buy in. Companies like sram are making an effort with ideas like the UDH which creates alternative possibilities to further evolve what's currently available on the market today.
Sorry, that was a long winded reply. It's partially directed at the mindset of "choose a standard and be a dick about it".

 @jomacba: Good stuff!

 Had the opposite experience with all e13 products. They came spec'd on bikes and I could not kill them.

 @nematon785 - Sorry to hear you've had issues with our products. Ill reach out via DM to get a better understanding of what troubles you've had.

 @suspended-flesh: Sorry to hear you've had no issues with our products. Ill reach out via DM to get a better understanding of what lack of troubles you've had.

 @mjlee2003: #1CUSTOMERSERVICE!

I am still running a 2015 27.5 TRS+ rear wheel and hub that still works fine. Currently on 3rd cassette and derailleur.

 I live in a very hot area (actually, pretty close to Gwin) so I have to add sealant to my tires often.

Still don't struggle adding sealant.

 Based on all the comments here, sounds like no one is struggling. E13 just made up a problem so we think we need these valves. Even I can add sealant to my tire/change a tubeless tire easily, and my mechanical skills are shit.

 This. I really don’t get why we al need this product. I am relatively newer to tubeless (2yrs) and from day 1 got the Stans syringe that threads into the valve. Makes tire swaps so easy; Put on new tire, no sealant, inflate to seat to rim, pull valve core to release air, add sealant via syringe, put valve core back in, inflate to PSI of choice. Bam, done, 5 minutes tops from start to finish.

 You don't even need a syringe, though that's a nice solution. I bought a 2oz bottle of Stans once and just keep refilling it from the bigger bottle.

 I change my tires around so often my sealant doesn't get a chance to coagulate.

 Dude, did you even read the press release? "Less tubeless stress means longer, and more enjoyable rides"

 I've had this idea since having tubeless rims for the last 10+yrs, and I don't know how not a single rim manufacturer hasn't done it. Having the fill port 180degrees from the valve and it would also make it slightly more balanced. I'm sure those that control the bike industry are retarded and if I had the extra coin I'd start my own company to do this.

 @FlatSkilz: 180 degrees is a full kick-turn.

 Mustard squeezer! Bigger and easier to fill than the little Stans bottles. Brillo!

 Beware the Mustard Plug! Can ruin a sandwich with the quickness.

 @suspended-flesh: i charge 50 for service calls

 Yep. I am also finding that my tires stay inflated longer with the Fillmore valves.

 I recommend them being about $20 less before I try them.

 @mikealive: I’d buy them if even if they were double the price. Worth it!

 Amen brother!

 For $50 a set?? Santa Cruz is smoking way to much to think that's reasonable...No sale...

 Those things tend to get all clogged up with sealant because of the micro straw. Also because of the internal duckbill valve the flow is reduced from your standard valve body

 Tubes 'break' - that is the whole problem with them. I haven't had a flat in 7 years and I was late to the tubeless game.

 Indeed they are!

 “Resists build up and prevents sealant from clogging and congealing at the valve.” How? @ethirteen:

 @EnduroCowboy: there is a midget from their marketing department constantly cleaning your valve as you ride. Make sure you feed it from time to time

 @valrock: ah ha!! Super smart

 I got the Orange Seal Endurance sealant, it's supposed to stay liquid longer...
shop.orangeseal.com/products/endurance-sealant-w-inj-system

 @blcpdx: It's the best. Hands down.

 What about DT swiss?

 Indeed they will. Just ensure you are getting the correct length for the rim depth you have. We offer 2 lengths that will fit most of the rims on the market.

 @FloydTShark: The regular E!3 valves did not play well with my DT XMC 1200 rims. The rim bed is slightly concave: E13 valves come with two kinds of rubber seals for the tape side of the rim, but neither worked: The round ones were too round so didn't seal, and the flat o-rings were too flat, making the edge of the stem pierced the rim tape.

Cheers, Lars

 @delarscuevas: had similar issues with other values on enve m630 wheels, they didn't sit flush inside. Eventually had to pony up for the proprietary enve ones. These I like cuz live in small apartment and looks like can avoid the mess when adding sealant. Will try

 Would these work with BMX Industries Motomag II's? Asking for a friend with a background in those.