Pinkbike's EWS Pro Rides - Jared Graves and his Yeti SB5C

Nov 2, 2015
by Paul Aston  
lead image

Jared Graves is a multi-talented animal of a bike handler, putting more hours in at the gym and out on the trails than most. I remember reading an interview where the Yeti team visited Barcelona between events and while all the boys were out partying, sightseeing and chilling, Jared spent four days in his hotel room repeating his intensive interval program, eating and recovering. Discipline such as that backs up a resume that already suggests that Jared is quite possibly the best all-around cyclist on the planet. With plenty of Four Cross rainbows and gold medals to his name, a 6th place at the 2008 Olympics in Beijing on a BMX, stepping onto a World Championship downhill podium, and beating the Lycra crowds at the Australian cross-country championships, Jared's ability to turn his hands to anything on two wheels is pretty crazy. Focusing on enduro in 2013, Jared has gone on to stand on a staggering twelve EWS podiums from eighteen starts, finishing only once outside of the top 10 and took the over Enduro World Series title in 2014.

Unfortunately for the reigning champion, 2015 was disturbed by an injury sustained during off-season training prior to the first EWS round in Rotorua, New Zealand. Crashing into a tree, he separated both shoulders and injured his back (the tree must have been a write-off!), which put him out for the first three rounds and no doubt affected his results throughout the remainder of the 2015 season. Despite this, Jared managed to take a win at the final round in Italy and 15th in the overall series rankings. Due to the unfortunate events at Round 6 of the EWS in Crested Butte, Colorado, I did not get the chance to ride his Yeti SB5C, but Jared did sit down for an excellent pre-race interview about how he prepares his turquoise racer for battle.


Jared Graves EWS bike - Crested Butte
Jared Graves poses with his Yeti SB5C. He prefers the shorter travel, 127mm rear end, paired with a longer, 160mm-stroke Fox 36 fork.


So, let's start with the basics: Handlebar width and cockpit setup.

I just run the stock FatBar Lite from Renthal. They're 740mm wide. Back when I was doing 4X, I was actually running 730mm, so this feels like a good width. Sometimes I switch between a 20mm and 30mm rise bar depending upon the course. I'm opting for 20mm here at Crested Butte. I'm running the large SB5C here and the head tube is pretty long. I've flipped the stem upside down and I've actually got the same bar-to-axle measurement as the SB6, with a 170mm fork and a 30mm bar with the stem the right way up. It's quite a big difference in head tube size between the two. It's 805mm from the axle to the center of the bars at the end. I've also got some Troy Lee Designs grips from ODI, in turquoise to match the Yeti colors.

Jared Graves EWS bike - Crested Butte
Stock Renthal FatBar Lite handlebar and matching TLD/ODI grips


I see you have an XTR shifter on the left-hand side.

Yeah that is for the dropper post. Shaun Hughes (Jared's mechanic) modified the shifter and the way the cable clamps internally so I can just use the XTR thumb lever to actuate the Thomson Covert dropper. It has a 125mm drop, which has worked out really well because in the extended position - that's my correct seat height for climbing and fully down was the same height as I always ran my seat in the downhill days. It worked out perfectly.

Fox suspension front and rear?

A 160mm travel Fox 36 on the front, a bit of a mismatch with the 127mm frame, but it slackens the head angle a bit and makes it more capable in the rough stuff. Plus, it also makes the wheelbase a bit longer too. The first time we tried the 160mm fork on the 127mm-travel frame, I just really liked it, so we always run that now.

Jared Graves EWS bike - Crested Butte


How much sag do you run?

Low: 20-percent front and rear and that's standing up in attack position. Depending upon the course, it varies between 20-23-percent. Normally, the same percentage front and rear. Sometimes the forks are a little softer with more volume spacers in, so it ramps up more, but again, this is dependent upon the terrain. Here, I have three orange volume spacers in the fork with 70psi. My base settings at home are two spacers, but I play around a bit - I will see tomorrow when we have an idea of the trails we are riding. It sounds like it's going to be pretty fast, so I might go a bit stiffer.

The sag in the low 20's sounds quite stiff compared to what some of the other guys might ride.

I do like the bike to be a bit stiffer. Maybe that comes from my 4X days. I have done loads of downhill runs on hardtails over the years for practice and perhaps that's why I like the 127mm travel bike sometimes too. I think it suits my style a bit more - using my body as suspension to soak up impacts, rather than letting the bike do it all for me.

Do you ride on the front or off the back?

I would say that I am pretty centered when I ride, which I guess, is reflected in the suspension setup - trying to keep everything in balance.

Any special mods in the suspension?

Not that I know of. We have been doing a couple of different things with Fox on the rear shock, but it's basically stock. We just keep on top of the fork lubrication really. The stock stuff now is so good. It's way better than what we were racing two years back.

Titanium bolts?

Stock titanium bolts in the shock mount hardware and some in the stem clamp. The only reason I run those though is because I like the look of the black bolts. I don't run them on the face/bar clamp. In fact, I never run Ti-bolts for the bars because I've seen too many of them break. I always stick to steel there.

Do you ever use the climb/damping lever on the shock?

I never touch it, to be honest. Even when climbing, I just stay in full descent mode. I think a well-designed bike should climb efficiently and Yeti have killed it with that. The bike just climbs awesome and even better if it's a bit rough in, and the suspension is in descend mode. My mechanic Shaun has even screwed the lever down so I can't change it, just in case I catch my shorts and it changes. You don't want to flick into climb mode before dropping into a rough downhill section.

On to wheels then. Are you still running full downhill tires?

No, they are the new Maxxis Double Down casing. Pretty much a downhill tire, but with a folding bead. They're a little bit lighter too, and should probably roll a little faster. They're certainly more substantial than the EXO casing tires. Yesterday in the bike park, I was on EXO casing tires and I double flatted in a rock garden. That was the last straw! If you get a flat, that's your weekend over, so I went back to the Double Downs. They're 2.5" front and rear with a 3C casing. Actually, Maxxis never really told us what the compound was, they're prototypes with some kind of 3C compound and are pretty soft. I think the side knobs might be a little softer than others, but maybe it's just because they're fresh out of the molds. Some tires at home that have been there for 12 or 18 months, I've noticed are starting to get a bit harder. Maybe I would run a narrower or lower profile tire if we had something in the Double Down casing, but availability isn't here yet. They roll really well though and I like the high volume of the 2.5" tire. I did some testing at home around rolling resistance and it seems pretty minimal on the Minion.

What pressures are you running?

I've been running 23psi in the front and 26psi in the rear as my base setting - more like downhill tire pressures. I would be running more on the EXO tires.

Do you still use a ghetto tubeless setup?

We used it a lot last year. It's good sometimes to get that extra bit of protection between the tire and the rim, so it won't pinch as much. It's just a pain in the arse though, when you're changing tires all the time. If it's really rocky, we might do it for the race wheels. We'll see what the stages look like and we never know. Maybe we will go back to an EXO if there are smooth pedally trails. When we are switching back and forth a lot, we don't bother with it. Also, the Double Down tires are a pretty tight fit and it can be an effort to get them on with the extra thickness of the tube.

It seems like your more interested in safety than weight savings?

Like I said yesterday: when I double flatted, I was like, "no, we can't risk it." If you run light tires to save weight that you know you shouldn't really have been running, you will feel like the biggest idiot on the face of the earth if you puncture. I try to do everything I can to minimize mechanical issues. Just make sure you get to the finish!

bigquotes You will feel like the biggest idiot on the face of the earth if you puncture. I try to do everything I can to minimize mechanical issues.


Jared Graves EWS bike - Crested Butte
Jared Graves EWS bike - Crested Butte
Shimano Saint brakes front and rear with 180mm rotors. Spokes are lightweight DT Swiss Aerolites to create some flex.


Still running alloy rims?

The construction of these (DT Swiss) 471 rims is bombproof. They're light and they're awesome. We lighten up the wheels a little bit by using Aerolite spokes, which also gives a little bit more flex in the wheel, which I like on the small bumps. Spoke tensions are slightly less than max (perhaps a little looser than they should be), but not to the point that they could vibrate loose on each stage. I like a bit of side-to-side movement sometimes. We double layer the rim tape just to be safe - a couple of times we have snapped a spoke and it can actually puncture the rim tape and you can get a flat that way. It only adds maybe 15 or 20 grams, but is worth it for the extra safety. It's just not worth the risk.

One of the best things about having Richie on the team, is that he's the ultimate destruction tester. If he can get away with something, I know I'll be OK. We try stuff out on him first to see if he can break it. He loves trying to break stuff, it's one of his favorite pastimes.

bigquotesOne of the best things about having Richie on the team is that he's the ultimate destruction tester. If he can get away with something, I know I'll be OK.


Is Gearing all standard?

Yes, it's all XTR 11-speed, with a 34-tooth chainring up front - this is my everyday chainring size, although I might change to a 36 tooth to race on.

Again, we need to see what the stages are like. I usually go up a couple of teeth at a race,, because you want to have a big gear range and just grind it out on the climbs a bit more.

Jared Graves EWS bike - Crested Butte
Off-the-shelf Shimano XTR 11-speed transmission.


You're not worried about saving energy on the way up?

No, not really. If the transitions are pretty lenient, I'll take a bigger chainring and make sure I'm not spun out on the sections that actually count. Unfortunately, at the moment, the 36 tooth is the biggest we have available, but I shouldn't need anything bigger than that.

Jared Graves EWS bike - Crested Butte
Jared pushes a single, 36-tooth chainring on race day and always runs a top guide.


Do you run the bashguard and top guide?

Always the top guide and pretty much always the bashguard. It's going to add 20 grams or whatever to your bike, so why wouldn't you run it? If it stops a rock flinging up and bending your chainring, that could be your race over. It's a damn light bike anyway - actually I never weigh the bikes anymore, I just set them up how they need to be set up and there is nothing you can do about the weight, it is what it is.

Even with the chunky wheels on it, I would take a guess that it's not more than 27 pounds, and to me, on high speed, rough stuff, it's still too light. I might even be looking at ways to add weight to my bike for racing, especially if there's more and more high-speed rough stuff. It just starts feeling really unstable if it's too light, so I don't know why people bother trying to save 20 grams here and there - it just seems ridiculous

bigquotesI might even be looking at ways to add weight to my bike for racing, especially if there's more and more high-speed rough stuff. It just starts feeling really unstable if it's too light.


Cool, I have finally found somebody who agrees with me on weight!

Within reason, I can be a bit of a weight weenie in places where it actually matters. I just don't want any unnecessary weight on my bike, but doing some XC racing, I get more serious because I'm already a lot bigger than the other dudes, so I need to get the bike as light as possible. But then, the trails are pretty tame and you're not going to get too many mechanical issues in an XC race. Especially not in Australia, where we seem to be riding on paved crap all the time.

Do you still carry a fully loaded pack for every occasion or was that just in Finale last year?

Finale was a little bit overkill. That pack was a pain in the arse to race with because it was probably 5 kilograms with the water in. It was a big mamma! Anything that's light, I will take. I will always take a chain pin, chain tool, derailleur hanger and the kinds of things that will get you out of trouble. Basic tools like Co2's, tire levers, tire plugs, tubes, and even a patch kit - just in case you flat and put a tube in and that flats too. They flat so easily compared to tubeless, so I will take a patch kit just to be careful. Your day might be over, but at least you won't be stuck an hour's ride from the pits trying to limp home on a flat. It can help make a race day with punctures that little less miserable.

Everything in the pack, or do you stick stuff to the bike?

We will usually put a tube on the bike and as much as I want everything I need that might save me from ruining a race, I still want to keep my backpack light. I try to suss out where the feed stations are, so if I know there's a feed station at the bottom of stage, I always make sure my water is empty before I start the stage, just to get the weight off my back.

Yeti is also making an 'enduro bib' now with pockets in the back, so we have been running that with food and tools in there. I also have a vest hydration pack thing that takes two liters of water. My normal everyday backpack only carries 2 liters anyway - it just allows you to not wear a pack, which covers up the logo's your sponsors are putting in money for. It looks a bit cleaner too. Hydration packs make you look like a hunchback all the time. There's always a trade-off somewhere, I guess.

Tailored kit?

If it needs it, yes. A good thing about all the in-house Yeti stuff is that we have had constant revisions and feedback with our race kit. Back when we ran the ONE Industries stuff in 2013, they were just regular moto jerseys. I was completely cutting those to pieces and re-stitching them. Every jersey - arms, torso, etc. - all cut to make it less flappy. We have been working really hard on the Yeti stuff with the apparel guys to get it just how we want it - not too tight, but not too baggy, with everything functioning as it should. Nothing more, nothing less.

I noticed before your that your jerseys seemed super tight.

Last year I asked for a tight shirt and it was definitely a trial and error season as far as the kit went. I said I wanted it a lot tighter than the ONE kit, but it came back a bit too tight. That's not something that you can bust out in a week and change. A whole fresh batch of stuff came later in the year it got a little looser, but then in the off-season, we got it dialed.

Jared Graves is back and looking focused and fast.
Tailored kits? You bet. Graves leaves nothing to chance.


Hard to say if it was just tight or you were hulking out of it.

Maybe I had too many donuts and burritos in Colorado last year?

You're running a Stages Power meter too?

I only really use it on the liaison climbs. Sometimes on race day mornings you can be hyped up feeling fresh y'know - it's easy to fly up the first climb way too hard. A power meter is a good way of keeping everything in check. I know if I keep it under 250watts on a climb, I will get to the top recovered, not hanging. I'm just trying to ride efficiently on the liaisons, to not dilly-dally around too much and not waste energy.

Do you use it during the timed stages?

Not really. Just more at home for training, where I have different loops on the trails. There're so many other things going on to consider. Say, with a rough trail, you might not be pedaling, but you/re getting worn out, so you can't really look at the power data too much. I have definitely tailored some intervals around the feedback from races, but that would be certain watts against time on the road bike. There are so many outside factors - you can't really look into a power file from a stage, because so many outside things fatigue you, like altitude. You could be eight minutes into a stage and hit a short climb, and be doing well to hold 500 watts up after hanging on to the bike for so long.

For training, it's awesome knowing that it's working. You can see if you can hold power for longer and how you’re improving. I don't do a single training ride without it, but I don't look too much into the racing data.

It s a solid sixth for Jared Graves on his return from injury a confident as we head into the second half of the season that should suit his strengths.
There's no doubt Jared will be looking to get that number 1 on his back again in 2016.


Do you have any set strategies for the Colorado EWS?

Yes I do. Here, at altitude the biggest thing is pacing, especially with the long stages. I have done some of these races previously. I see some of the amateurs on a fifteen minute stage just sprinting off the line at 11,000 feet with everything they have and I'm thinking: "Oh no, that's going to end really badly in about one minute's time, and you still have fourteen to go."

I always make some kind of a game plan. Even if you can only ride a trail once, you will have it on the GoPro so you can see if a climb is coming up and you need to take it easy beforehand. It can let you know how long the physical sections are. It's a bit harder in France when you have to go straight back up for your race run after the sighting run, but still, you just have to pay attention and try to remember as much as you can. Pacing is a huge thing in enduro and I think it's something that a lot of guys overlook. At this altitude, if you go hard on the first quarter of a stage, you will be blowing in no time - and paying for it later.

How much do you use the GoPro?

Yeah, I will just film the run and watch it back a few times. I don't try to overcomplicate things or get too technical with it. I find that I ride better if I'm not over thinking things and letting it come naturally, but I try to memorize the bits that might catch me out - corners that can sneak up and switchbacks, for example.

At stage three in France, we got to walk it and not ride it, and we didn't have it on GoPro, and when the first tight switchback snuck up on me, I went straight on and into the bushes. I totally forgot about it from the inspection that it was there. If I had watched it a couple of times on the GoPro, I would have remembered it was there and been ready for it. I just want to remember key sections and the rest, I just go with it. You can't memorize a 14-minute trail after just one practice run.

If there is a really long stage with a lot to it, I might make pace notes and break it up into sections. But, in the past, I have gone too far and it's backfired - thinking about it all too much during the stage and getting confused, thinking I am here and not there, and completely messing it up because I stuff my own notes up in my head. It's something I have learned over the last couple of years, when that approach works and when it can backfire on you. I guess I am technical with some things and others, I don't think about. I always ride my best with my brain in neutral, just going for it.

EWS round 8 Finale Ligure Italy. Photo by Matt Wragg.

bigquotes I guess I am technical with some things and others, I don't think about. I always ride my best with my brain in neutral, just going for it.



MENTIONS: @yeticycles / @jaredgraves / @foxracingshox / @shimano / @Odigrips / @Maxxis




202 Comments

  • + 137
 I think Jared gets to be so honest with his bike setup as he's such an animal on it! Seriously though, a great insight into his racing - I was a big fan of his EWS journals a couple of years back. Best of luck for the upcoming season and stay healthy! And write more journals!
  • + 73
 Now all of us will set our sag 20-23%.
  • + 51
 I literally got out my shock pump...
  • - 2
 I wonder if his choice of parts and setup will change riding for Specialized next year.
  • + 13
 @enrico650 I really hope you are wrong
  • + 0
 Sorry ,but its pretty much a done deal.
  • + 14
 *running home to change 24/26 to 23/26 psi*
  • + 9
 @enrico650 I've heard lots of talk but no outright statements from Specialized or Graves.Do you have a link to your info?
  • - 2
 He officially starts in January. He's been riding an Enduro already.
  • + 2
 Yeti just released a statement about Jared leaving the team. He is also leaving Fox and shimano. Rockshox and Sram on board for the new season
  • + 1
 Ugh leaving all of my favorite brands and joining my least favorites. It would have been cool to see a specialized enduro with XTR and fox
  • + 70
 740mm bars for Jared Graves. Nuff said.
  • + 42
 WIDER IS BETTER. JARED IS FROM UPSIDE DOWN LAND
  • + 31
 740MM BUT HOW CAN HE STEER
  • + 0
 According to Wikipedia, he's 178cm (5'8") so maybe it's all relative? That being said, if that is his height I would of thought he'd ride a medium frame.
  • + 5
 being close to his height, I can't run mega wide bars, unless they have a strong (9 degree, essentially, any less and I can't run 780mm) backsweep. Renthals aren't as sharp as that (7 degrees) so 760mm probably makes a lot of sense. Provided that our wingspan is similar, I wouldn't be surprised if he has shorter arms than me, I'm built like an ape.
  • + 11
 178cm is 5'10 not 5'8 afaik haha
  • - 1
 What was his stem at? I couldn't find any mention of it...looks like a shorty in the pic but a 740mm bar is making me think long stem
  • + 10
 Now I feel like a fool for having 800mm bars on my enduro bike
  • - 10
flag charmingbob (Nov 2, 2015 at 11:47) (Below Threshold)
  • + 27
 @charmingbob that's .839 of a foot, in other words 84% of 12 inches. So 84% of 12 is 10. Jared is 5'10". f*ck math.
  • + 10
 @charmingbob there are 12 inches in a foot, not 10!!
Here's one way to determine it:
178cm = 70.08 inches
70.08 inches / 12 (inches/foot) = 5 feet with a remainder of 10.08 inches (remainder = 70.08inches-12inches/foot*5feet= 10.08 inches)

Here's another way, if you can't understand that way.
178cm = 5.839 feet
0.839 feet * (12 inches / 1 foot) = 10.07 inches
5.839 feet = 5 feet 10.07 inches
  • + 6
 and if you don't think me and @jibb are right, then you can use this site www.thecalculatorsite.com/conversions/common/cm-to-feet-inches.php
  • + 6
 QED
  • + 9
 @captaintyingknots @arnoldtm2 and @jibb, I stand corrected, thanks for explaining that!
  • + 12
 Bahahaaaa American measurements confusing?
  • + 2
 Why is everyone so reluctant to use google? Just type ___ to ____..
  • + 2
 @chyu that's exactly why @charmingbob made the mistake actually..............
  • + 1
 Imperial System is nucking futz! Just saying... Wink
I would get confused instantly as well.
  • + 36
 I always look forward to reading content from graves. Really good insight every time.

So is he definitely off to specialized, or is it TBA?
  • - 7
flag fartymarty (Nov 2, 2015 at 6:16) (Below Threshold)
 I am sure he wouldn't jump ship after so long at Yeti... I would be a little disappointed if he did sell out though.
  • + 13
 I don't think he's a selling out, if he leaves for specialized. Yeti can't afford him and Richie now. Jared probably left so his good friend Richie could get what's due to him.
  • + 2
 it's a done deal
  • + 21
 I love Yeti and I'm not too happy to see him leave, but he isn't selling out....he's an athlete, not some garage band singer that "hates the man". His family deserves the best that he can provide, during what is a relatively short racing career.
Wishing the best for grubby!
  • + 2
 Hey @hayden - you say 'it's a done deal'. What's your source for that info?

During the interview with Jared in the last EWS coverage vid, he noted that he looks forward to the next season with Rude.
  • + 4
 @MtbTico He didnt say he was looking forward to next season with Richie, he said that Richie was coming out in the Australian summer to train with him again. There seems to be enough talk about Jared leaving Yeti to make me think there is a lot of truth behind it, and just because riders arent on the same team anymore, doesnt mean they cant hang out and train together anymore. From what I saw at the BME races they were at this year, they get along like best friends, and the past 2 World Champions training together sounds like a good recipe for continued success to me.
  • + 2
 @Triber66 The point i was trying to make is that I though Jared had a relationship with Yeti that was a little deeper than a purely financial relationship.

I understand Yeti are a small (but very innovative company) and they have two top draw enduro riders they need to pay but I am sure they can make it work somehow.

Lets hope mountain biking racing does go the way of other professional sports where money rules and shuts the door for the small players.
  • + 7
 Look man, Triber is right, you risk a lot making a career out of mountain biking. Every career cyclist deserves the biggest paycheck that somebody offers because it does not last forever. The smaller companies can only afford to be a stepping stone. They are ok with that, they get perhaps the best deal of all. Top notch guys who have not been "discovered" yet winning races and getting tons of exposure while not costing a lot. Specialized can afford to just buy these already made riders and that's ok too, it's just a different way of doing business. I wish every professional rider on the planet a lucrative deal if they can get it. It's not selling out. This isn't punk rock this is mountain bike racing.
  • + 2
 I guess it is not to dissimilar to top rugby players whose bodies are broken by the ends of their careers. I agree career cyclists need to be paid well during the career they have. I suppose we will have to wait and see... but as a plus side it must help with the development of bikes with riders changing teams and having input into the design process.
  • + 2
 PS Thanks Paul and Jared for a great article. MORE PLEASE.
  • + 37
 Awesome interview, Pinkbike. But goddamn Jared, 250w on a liaison would tear my legs off
  • + 5
 that's about 4 horsepowers per tonne (if Gravey weights 85kg). So it's safe to say that Gravey has the strength of 4 horses going an easy pace on a liaison! Razz
  • + 24
 "I recover on 250W"

Jesus christ. I can hold 250W for a little while, but I sure as shit ain't feeling fresher after it. Dude is a beast.
  • + 4
 Wth is a liaison?
  • + 8
 Check out his max power reading from an XC eliminator race

twitter.com/jaredgraves/status/442524543685361664

1943 W !!!
  • + 3
 That's a lot of horses.
  • + 2
 My threshold for an hour is 257 (4.1W/kg).... Recovering at 250 is insane! Super respect for his fitness level
  • + 34
 Jared is a champion inside and out. No drama, no ego, no fist pumps, just performance! He's got my respect.
  • + 26
 I bet he fist pumps to AC/DC...you know cause Australia.
  • + 27
 I'm waiting for the rest of the EnduBros to catch on to the fact that a TLD clown suit, flapping in the wind, is actually considerably slower than a snug-fitting jersey like Graves and Rude wear. I mean, road racers have only known this for the last 100 or so years.
  • - 30
flag dualsuspensiondave (Nov 2, 2015 at 7:18) (Below Threshold)
 Not really, it doesn't make much of a difference if any at all when mountain biking in the woods. Wind is mainly a factor on the road.
  • + 13
 Not true @dualsuspensiondave Wind-drag starts to play an important role the moment you go into speeds over 30km/h which goes to say that it doesn't matter when the EWS guys do their transition stages but it sure as hell does when they plow down trails at warp-speed!

Sorry guyz, the science-geek took over...
  • - 68
flag dualsuspensiondave (Nov 2, 2015 at 8:01) (Below Threshold)
 Not in the woods it doesn't. Trees stop the wind bud, thought that science geek in you would understand that. That roadie stuff is out the door when in the woods.
  • + 47
 I think we are talking about drag caused by air resistance, not the added force of a constant wind. And yes, the tailored outfit will cut down on drag caused by air resistance and no amount of trees will prevent air from being present.
  • + 5
 The trees dont block the rider though, and the rider is the one moving in excess of 30km/hr in this instance.
  • + 21
 I think this conversation just made me dumber. I didn't think that was possible. Thanksalot..
  • + 12
 There are definitely practical advantages to wearing tighter fitting clothes. Heat/moisture transfer is much better as you don't have a layer of air between you and your clothes. If you are layering it's a lot less bulky to add/subtract. Road jerseys are actually pretty great off road as you can stuff crap in the pockets for short rides. But the biggest advantage is of course for the ladies, cause the only thing hotter than skin-tight clothes are florescent endurobro jerseys with matching socks.
  • - 32
flag dualsuspensiondave (Nov 2, 2015 at 9:28) (Below Threshold)
 The crossover point with drag and aerodynamics is at about 40mph. Not very often are the racers going over 40mph, and the clothing isn't that loose really. At that point you're talking maybe a tenth of a second. Other things are much more important in enduro racing than that.
  • + 15
 The commonly agreed upon speed is 18mph/30kmh. I don't know where you got 40mph, but it's wrong.
  • - 25
flag dualsuspensiondave (Nov 2, 2015 at 9:41) (Below Threshold)
 That's the starting point, not the crossover point. A noticable difference isn't until 40mph.
  • + 9
 What is a "crossover point"? What does that even mean?

And yes, there is a significant difference between even minimal changes when you're going 25mph. "Noticeable" is also not the same as measurable, and the time differences between Graves and other EWS guys is sure as shit measurable.
  • + 14
 @dualsuspensiondave Cmon dude. We all know that aerodynamic drag is related to speed squared, so the faster you go the more drag there is. BUT THERE IS STILL DRAG AT ALL SPEEDS. And a tight fitting jersey will cut down on that drag. At every speed. Before you get all hate-y on me I'm a roadie; I've spent literally hours diving into and studying aerodynamics.
  • + 6
 @dualsuspensiondave
Well, they do get out of the woods sometimes, don't they?
  • + 1
 what if it's a crosswind? i saw this tour de france stage once where there was a huge cross breeze, and then as the peloton rounded a corner into the wind, one team had assembled and attacked at that point, gaining precious seconds for the team leader. so yeah, anyway, i know there's no peloton in enduro racing, but certainly there are cross winds that become headwinds at times... so what of that?
  • + 3
 If there is any kind of high speed sections on it,aerodynamics matter. It may not be huge; IF it is 10 seconds quicker over an hour of racing that is really small. But hey, 10 seconds matters.

I seem to recall that back when they were allowed to use skin suits for DH racing the number that was tossed around was about 2 seconds a run.
  • + 3
 @dualsuspension Apparently rides in an airless vacuum, where there is no air for his body to part as he makes his way down the hill.

Meaning: the idea that there is "no wind in the woods" is completely irrelevant, and false to boot.
  • + 8
 Wtf Dave. Get it together
  • - 14
flag dualsuspensiondave (Nov 2, 2015 at 13:21) (Below Threshold)
 Yeah, you guys are totally right. That's why no one uses them in enduro. During DH racing, they confirmed that is was a tenth to half a second quicker and made them illegal. Road racing is way different. If all that mattered in MTB, the bikes would be made for aerodynamics.
  • + 9
 So, going 25mph on a road bike is different than going 25mph on an MTB? Do you realize how ridiculous that sounds? The air doesn't stop causing drag when you jump off a road bike onto a mountain bike.
  • + 2
 I love the Alpinestars Krypton jersey, which is lightweight, cool, fitted, and very slim compared to other jerseys. You can find them for $25 (or less) too, so I bought 7 in different colors and it's all I wear now.

On the lift up at Aspen/Snowmass BME I happened to be in a gondola with JHK, and he said he heard one of the other pros hit 60+ mph on the fire road section, so yeah, aero does matter for the riders who have the balls to keep off the brakes.

Personally, I think the slim fitted jerseys look much better and are more comfortable than the baggy ones anyway.
  • - 10
flag dualsuspensiondave (Nov 2, 2015 at 15:23) (Below Threshold)
 Well yeah it's different than MTB. You guys are on what? 16 pound bikes with aero wheels, a few inches from each other?! If one person gets a draft of side wind, the whole pack turns into a yard sale. Not to mention you can be getting intense headwinds that are more likely on the road than in the woods. You guys are riding some serious miles too. Hell, it's a huge difference. Go on a road ride in baggies and big tires and you'll immediately see the difference.

So what does the Enduro athlete gain if everyone is in skinsuits? Everybody loses 10 seconds off their times? It doesn't change anything other than that. All you do is show everyone your junk. If that's your thing, then by all means. I'm not judging, but it's not my cup of tea.
  • + 2
 Chill Dave, these guys are just trying to justify their lycra fetishes.
  • + 2
 I'm talking about a solo rider. At 25mph. Still air. On either a road bike, or a MTB. Tell me, how is it different, aside from their positions on the bike? Does the road cyclist have to move through the air, while the MTB rider rides in vacuum?
  • + 8
 If the wind is at your back the loose jersey is faster.
  • + 1
 Seconds and tenths of seconds matter in the world of DH and Enduro. Look no further that the Top 5 of any WC or EWS race in the past year. Some close times were had indeed. SkierCross and BoarderCross went thru the no skin suit rules some years back and a bunch of racers were called out for having their baggies too tight. LOL
  • + 8
 @gvnick, I like the way you think.
  • + 0
 Come on BobChicken. Like it or not aerodynamics makes a difference. If you are a high-level racer and can find a kit that is more aero it is going to give you an advantage. Spending the time to choose right clothes is like trying to find that perfect suspension setting. The only difference is one is cool and the other is not.
  • + 3
 I'd argue Jared skill, strength and fitness are way more important than any advantage he'd get cutting though the air. And given he's as pragmatic about the rest of his setup, I'd guess concerns such as comfort, tighter clothing would wick sweat away better and baggy clothing is perhaps distracting if it's flapping around would be more important to him, as much as personal preference? So while you guys maybe right that tighter clothing is more aero-dynamic, in twisting stop start technical endro single track it is probably pretty low on the list of considerations.
  • + 2
 ^ All things being equal (which pretty much true for the top 5) being slightly more aero than a competitor could be the difference between a podium or not.
Baggies do have a greater chance of getting hung up on an another object (tree, shift lever) than much tighter fitting kit would.

Food-Court Gangsta look should stick to free-skiing.

PS Why is Yeti making a clothing line? Seems like a great way to lose capital quickly. Modding TLD kit would likely be a lot more cost efficient.
  • + 1
 well, Yeti has enough of a following that they can hold a Yeti-con every year. You'd hope that there would be enough sales to break even.
  • + 2
 If everyone gains the same ten seconds, then what's the point? Great point. I've been wondering exactly the same thing about 650b, 15mm axles, boost...
  • + 2
 @gvnick
and cue 'sail' for the soundtrack
  • + 0
 @jaame: That's the rub. No one is gaining the same amount of time as everyone else. They all ride different bikes, on different tires, on different setups. There's a reason ProTour road teams spend hundreds of thousands of shekels each year dialing in seemingly inconsequential shit like tire width, bar width, and even stuff as crazy as the material of their jerseys. The phrase "ounces make pounds" applies to the climbing world; in cycling "tenths make seconds" is equally applicable. And those seconds add up to podium places lost, and contract money lost as well.
  • + 1
 Leduke, he's talking if all racers were in skinsuits. They would all drop the same amount off their times rendering it useless. None of the parts are considered in that equation and shouldn't be.
  • + 1
 They would not all drop the same amount though, unless every person is the same shape. The size of the rider would make a difference. One person may drop 10 seconds while another person drops 8.
  • + 0
 Indeed. Skinsuits of different material, riders of different size, helmets of different design, etc. It all adds up. If you think it doesn't, you're just ignorant.
  • + 3
 I had no idea how big of a deal Yeti is to people until I moved 10 minutes from Golden (where they are based). The "tribe" is somewhat comical with fanboys wearing matching jerseys and shorts on every ride I go on. The Colorado-based clothing sales must be enough to justify their own clothing line. Not knocking Yeti though, great bikes and obviously smart marketing.
  • + 4
 When someone says ProTour on pinkbike, it doesn't mean what it means in the real world.
  • + 4
 I wish Dave would comment more, it's entertaining to see how ignorant some people can be. If his form fitting jersey shaves .01 seconds off his time, that's mission accomplished. A win is a win. And for your argument about wind drag being a factor after 40mph, holy shit you're dumb. Ride a road bike sometime, you might learn something.
  • + 1
 Guys, what about a crosswind?!?
  • + 2
 Disc wheels in a crosswind
  • + 1
 @jaame that is why NASCAR is watched for the crashes! Wink
If "Boost"ing your "650b" "15mm" resulted in a proven 10 seconds savings on a race run, and not doing that resulted in finishing off the podium by 3 seconds how would you feel?

I thought Yeti was still running TLD kit. I guess I'm not bro enough to follow the EWS
  • + 2
 @gonecoastal be more bro, bro!!!
  • + 23
 good set-up info, "actually I never weigh the bikes anymore, I just set them up how they need to be set up and there is nothing you can do about the weight, it is what it is"

^ this is how we should all be riding
  • + 21
 Sure, but he also has 2016 everything, where its all reasonably light. Give me a 2016 carbon complete and I promise not to weigh it or use Ti rotor bolts.
  • + 7
 And he's a sponsored rider, too. Not all of us can afford to ride $10,000 carbon racing machines.
  • + 9
 ^^ hey guys only referring to getting on our own bike's and riding, and not being concerned so much about the weight
  • + 3
 Not to mention he can put out about twice the wattage of the average rider, so I think he can afford to push a bit heavier bike in trade off for stability.....
  • + 2
 Yep, he understands the value of conditioning!
  • + 21
 Great article. I hope the Specialized move is just a rumor.
  • + 9
 "One of the best things about having Ritchie on the team, is that he's the ultimate destruction tester."

Wouldn't you love to have bikes given to you and go balls out not worrying about breaking it because you'll just receive another to try to destroy. That's a dream scenario for many of us. I'm no pro rider by any means, but am a little more cautious at times knowing that when things break, my bank account(and wife) hates it. Even if it's a warranty issue, that can take weeks, sometimes months to get situated. Love this article BTW.
  • + 1
 I'd love that. in the last three years I've broken 3 frames, two forks, two sets of cranks, a hub, bars, and a couple of shifting things as well... shit's expensive.
  • + 8
 "I might even be looking at ways to add weight to my bike for racing, especially if there's more and more high-speed rough stuff. It just starts feeling really unstable if it's too light, so I don't know why people bother trying to save 20 grams here and there - it just seems ridiculous"

Bet this makes many of us feel silly debating between carbon or alloy handlbars/rims/cranks. More weight is good, says the god of enduro! See you at the bottom, weight weenies!
  • + 7
 See you at the top...
  • + 7
 "Do you ever use the climb/damping lever on the shock?

I never touch it, to be honest. Even when climbing, I just stay in full descent mode. I think a well-designed bike should climb efficiently and Yeti have killed it with that. The bike just climbs awesome and even better if it's a bit rough in, and the suspension is in descend mode. My mechanic Shaun has even screwed the lever down so I can't change it, just in case I catch my shorts and it changes. You don't want to flick into climb mode before dropping into a rough downhill section."

And if Fox had asked their sponsored riders first, that switch would hopefully never have made it on any production shock in the first place.

But this way everybody gets a chance to just screw the lever down to make absolutely sure it never is used, even by accident ;-)
  • + 13
 Not everyone is an ews racer. Doesn't really matter it's there, isn't it?
  • + 11
 not every bike pedals well with the shock in descend mode.
  • + 5
 Consumers like gimmicks, racer's don't. With that said, bikes with bad habits do benefit so I don't see the harm in it at all.
  • + 4
 I had a chance to ride a full-tilt SB5c this year (at a fraction of the pace as this dude) and can understand why he wouldn't use a climb switch. The suspension only becomes active when it needs to and is nearly bob-free on open. I would think it also helps that he is running 20% sag.
  • + 4
 And he is an animal.
  • + 7
 I demo'd a sb5c and felt the sag was too low at the recommended 30% and i felt like the rear end was undersprung.

When i asked the demo guy to bump up the pressure he gave me a bunch of diatribe about how the bike was designed to pedal around 30% sag and if i wanted more i was basically stupid and not smart like the yeti engineers.

Makes me feel more confident in how I setup my bike now..
  • + 1
 @UtahBikeMike interesting note about the demo crew. I was uber close to buying a Yeti SB75 2 years ago and went to go demo one at Fruita Fat tire fest. The demo guy was so rude to the people standing in line that several of us, myself included, walked away. I love that companies do free demos but they need to ensure that their crews are courteous. I ended up buying a Bronson...
  • + 1
 Yeah, the guy was pretty offputting.

The bike was a mess, too. The tires were to the point where I'd have replaced them, it squeaked and the wheels were pretty out of true. Hard to get a good idea of a bikes limits when I'm worried about it rattling apart.

I wanted to ride a 6c, but it wasn't available in my size. When i got back with the 5c it was. I didn't even want to take the 6c out at that point. Then all the bad press with the "pre-production" rear triangles happened and made me re-affirm my choice. I thrn went and bought my nomad.
  • + 3
 To be fair, it's probably a pretty miserable job living out of a van driving around adjusting seat height, air pressure, and swapping pedals all day while fielding questions from morons. Last brand demo I went to the guy for a major brand I won't name was clearly depressed. If I go to another demo I'll definitely bring a multitool and shock pump, keep my mouth shut and try to give the guys a break. The ones organized by LBS tend to be better
  • + 6
 That was insightful!

I'm interested in the "not too light" approach. Could it be that his light, 127mm bike at 20% sag is the reason he likes some weight? I just guess that a burlier 160mm bike can't get "too light" nor "too bouncing" and so in this case he would try to shave weight off.

Thanks for the inspiration btw!
  • + 3
 Makes some sense given that unsprung mass on a mountain bike is huge by percentage, especially with thick tires. However, given a totally rigid bike, the whole bike is unsprung mass. My thinking- if the bike feels unstable, make it longer not heavier.
  • + 10
 Jared graves what a boss! Good luck for the next season
  • + 9
 Fantastic article; one of the best I've read here recently. Graves seems like a pretty smart dude. Oh, and fast ...
  • + 3
 Would love to know more about setting up a bike with longer-travel fork? Anyone have any good material on this? I saw a pinkbike article about *not* doing this with an older Rocky Mountain Element, but clearly there are some exceptions. Would love a longer fork on my 100mm Tallboy...
  • + 3
 No secret. Put the longer fork on, adjust your bars, levers to the position you like.......and go. Of course don't put an 8" DH fork on a hardtail. An extra 10-15mm is no big deal
  • + 3
 Well one concern is that the extra leverage from a longer fork might rip your headtube off. Probably unlikely but no one wants to find out the hard way. Seems like many manufacturers are a little more lenient about fork length these days? Maybe cause the aluminum frames aren't super light anymore and the carbon ones excessively strong already? But don't take my word for it. Also I think a lot of bikes are engineered for 29er forks and if they're using the same wall thickness for a 650b frame, then you've got quite a lot of fork length to play with.

Geometry-wise it's pretty straightforward: slacker HA, more trail, slacker SA, higher bb. There's some calculators out there that will put numbers to the change.
  • + 3
 I would suggest looking in to a Pike 120mm fork for your Tallboy. I ride a carbon Anthem 29er, with 100mm rear and just installed a 120mm Pike up front. Feels like a completely different bike, and much more capable in rough stuff. You give up a little weight, but I feel the benefit of having a more stable front end far outweighs the weight gain. If a Pike seems overkill, I'd still suggest looking in to getting a 120mm fork with smaller stanchions.
  • + 2
 I have a 140MM Pike on my regular Tallboy and it absolutely bombs. Like Jared said, whatever feels good. Put it on and ride.
  • + 4
 I run a 160mm fork on a 120mm frame. And I laugh at people who think this kind of thing is an abomination. "But the designer didn't want that," well no kidding, but it's not the designer's bike anymore, it is my bike now...

Be aware of the side-effects of course (little higher BB, slacker HTA, longer wheelbase, etc) but if you want to do it, you should do It. It's your bike, set it up how you like it.
  • + 3
 I used a 180mm totem and a coil shock on my 130mm konig for three years. If you can run 160mm on a hardtail, I don't think running a 50mm longer fork is quite the abomination some claim. Jusu put it on and ride. You'll get used to it, whether it is optimal or not. I've now got a 120mm argyle and air shock on that frame. Totally different bike... Horses for courses.
  • + 3
 @sevensixtwo regarding your figures. Adding 20mm to the fork length will slack out your head angle by about one degree, and lift the bottom bracket by about 8mm. As soon as you sit on it it will be less, since you'll have more sag.
  • + 3
 Wow. What a great article! I don't know much about enduro racing but this was a pleasure to read. These are the type of articles I like, candid, techy, race thoughts and routines. I wish they would do these articles for downhill. I would actually even read it if it was road, cx or even bmx! And now that I know more about Jared...I'm a fan!
  • + 4
 "I always ride my best with my brain in neutral, just going for it."

And with that the jedi has spoken. Fast on a bike you are!
  • + 2
 Do you ride on the front or off the back?

I would say that I am pretty centered when I ride, which I guess, is reflected in the suspension setup - trying to keep everything in balance

Graves has spoken, people should take note
  • + 2
 Yes but I think the Yetis, with relatively longer chainstays, are a bike that rides well "pretty centered". If you're on a Spec enduro 650b, that's not going to be as much of an option.
  • + 3
 I wonder how 20% on 120mm and 20% on a 160mm fork is balanced?
  • + 3
 Btw, Graves is my most respected rider and he can ride however he wants. My comment was simply meant to provoke thought.
  • + 2
 Seems reasonable. Keep it simple, don't over complicate. Being a weight weeny won't do you any good - it will just make you insecure if your bike is still good enough. If you don't trust it, you're not going to risk it. I feel exactly his way about the exo tires - I like them a lot, but I've crashed due to "overcharging" and having a tire collapse. Might need to have a closer look at that double down...
  • + 2
 I would love to try that bike out. For a few years I've though a fairly stiff 130ish mm rear would be sweet with 150-160mm fork for general ripping. Firm but with some give. I like hardtails for the precision in technical spots, I find it enjoyable. But a little give on square edges and extra traction climbing never hurts. If only I were a trust fund kid.. Can't complain tho!
  • + 3
 Bottle rocket fits the bill if you can handle a few extra pounds, and they are not reserved for trust fund kids
  • + 5
 i like his brakeset....xtr lever to saint caliper combo..... this guy knows whats up
  • + 2
 Xtraints! Have a shop buddy who runs and loves that setup.
  • + 2
 Beautiful bike, prorbably my next bike.

My only concern other than the price is the water bottle cage, which fits under the frame. Has anyone had problems with having the water bottle there? like too much dust or bottles falling?

not a big fan of camelbacks here
  • + 1
 i have a rune with be bottle cage in the same position and it doesn't fall if the fit between the cage and the bottle is good. as for the dust, there's really not much you can do about it but it does get dusty or muddy depending on the conditions. I know people that use a condom on the bottle for this but I haven't done it.
  • + 1
 Ever since i started to ride a Giant Trance i've been feeling like no matter how much sag and rebound damping i use, the bike just bounces off every obstacle at speed. Being a light rider with a downhill background, i can't seem to find a good setup for faster segments. Having spent years aboard a Reing X and Glory DH, the transition to a lighter trail bike completely changed the way I attack trails at speed. Given the slack geo of the new Trance, I believe that bike weight and air sprung suspensions are somewhat responsible for this.
  • + 1
 I'm on a trance SX advanced from last year and I haven't found that at all. The Fox 34 Talas up front I haven't found a good setting for choppy trails at speed but the rear shock has been pretty good. I too was on a Reign X with the old fox float at 170mm I think and it was good but I find the trance quite a bit better all arounder. I'm switching to a 160mm Pike up front and hopping this will be a fork I'm happy with. FYI, I'm a 155lbs, not the fastest but not the slowest either.
  • + 1
 I think the Trance is a better all rounder too. It is loads of fun on the climbs. But at high speeds, I find that the front end of the Trance is barely manageable. The rear end gets stiffer as well and this is when I start loosing traction. Keeping a line is hard in the rough stuff.

However, when I had my Reign X, I've been through 3 forks (stock float, marzo 66 and then another float) and 2 shock (stock DHX and then a RP23). As soon as I went for a lighter setup (float and RP23), I ran in a similar problem. The performance simply wasn't there. On the other hand, the bike still inspired more confidence at speed than the Trance. This is where I believe the weight difference matters. I am 135 lbs and ride with minimal gears. And I do get "fast" on downhills.
  • + 1
 What a beast. Those are some big rings to be pushing. I am only reasonably fit, and my bike is definitely on the heavy side, but the first thing that comes to mind when I think of Crested Butte is suffering up steep double track/road to get to the riding. A 34 or 36t ring so he can hang back and recover? That is just nuts.
  • - 14
flag dualsuspensiondave (Nov 2, 2015 at 7:15) (Below Threshold)
 You know, I've never really understood what the big deal is about a 34t or 36t chainring. Even in my 42, the bike is going so slow that you would almost fall over with a smaller ring. Can't imagine using anything smaller than a 34t. I think if people tried to use a larger ring than they normally would, they would see how reasonable it really is. Jared is an absolute beast though, there's no denying that.
  • + 2
 Now your just tolling DSDave!
  • + 1
 Trolling? Take a look at pics of my bikes. They all have a 36t chainring on them. I'm no Graves either.
  • + 1
 Soo do you ride up hills ?or just push?
  • + 1
 I ride up hills and mountains. I'm fit, but I'm not anywhere near Graves fit.
  • + 1
 So why isn't he running a 40T chainring,you said it yourself,your not as fit as him but you run the same size ring.Something doesn't add up.
  • + 1
 Dude seriously? You're trolling. You don't have to be fit as Graves to run a 36t chainring. Anyone that stands and mashes on a downhill benefits from a 36t chainring. You can only go so slow on an uphill. I've never once needed more gear climbing. You must be in really poor shape.
  • + 1
 Can't troll a troll buddy,and i think your living in a dream world.Enjoy,it must be awsome.
  • + 1
 I love insults with poor grammar.
  • + 1
 So i guess Graves just doesn't know anything about gearing and you do.Ok then.
  • + 1
 I'm agreeing with Graves dude, just like everyone else that races in his class. If you wanna continue to talk about your hurt ego over poor fitness, then PM me.
  • + 1
 Why do you think I have a hurt ego?because you think I'm not fit,give it a rest.You sound butthurt from getting owned on wind resistance.
  • + 4
 How many rear triangles do you think he goes through in a year?
  • + 3
 So many that they can't afford to warranty people's frames that buy them.
  • + 3
 I run my 125mm bike with 160 fork with little SAG back/front as well - I am a bike setup God!
  • + 11
 Wait wait wait... I've never seen Waki or Graves in the same room at the same time. Coincidence?
  • + 10
 No coincidence, we both used to be God fearing, devoted Catholics. So whenever we wonder how to set up our bikes we ask oursleves: what would Jesus do?
  • - 4
flag chyu (Nov 2, 2015 at 7:10) (Below Threshold)
 My bike doesn't sag when seated
  • + 0
 @chyu - the one biggest mistake people do when trying to get a perfect set up for their riding style is they don't remember whether rear mech's clutch was engaged or disengaged while they were fiddling with SAG, rebound and compression. That is something worth thinking through when you are re-setting your shim stack. Everyone these days goes out and buys expensive data acquisition devices, while the whole process gets jeopardized by such an obvious detail. I know, I know what you want to say - who cares about that?! But the matter of a fact is that back in the days people were saying exactly same thing about disc brakes when they were coming out. You are a mountain biker or a mouse with a mountain bike - decide for yourself
  • + 1
 I see lots of bikes with disabled clutch on their rear mech. Manly XTR with their golden lever. I guess this is due to increased sensitivity in the rear suspension. If I weren't to lazy to change my suspension setup accordingly I would ty it. Or just get rid of the chain.
  • + 4
 god says : 20% sag, 100% swag
  • + 0
 I changed for ceramic bearings in suspension. I also remove dust seals for the race to minimize friction. I use 1mm smaller top shim if temperatures drop below 25C. Just throw the thing onto dyno. Has anyone tried nylon shims?
  • + 3
 I occasionally set sag on my suspensions so I can blend into a suspension discussion.
  • + 2
 This is a fantastic bike that we have sold lots of. The customer feedback has been amazing. Cannot get enough of them to keep up with demand. Smile
  • + 2
 Just wondering - does the 5c frame warrantee cover use with a 160mm fork? Seems like a greater difference than usual front to rear but if you could fit a 36/Pike and adjust front travel depending on where/what you ride it could negate the high cost by single biking it?
  • + 3
 Doh! I checked and it is based around a 150-160mm fork...
  • + 3
 Great article, really enjoyed that
  • + 2
 Such a professional, laid back, skilful and humble guy !! Reminds me of myself
  • + 1
 I wonder why he raced the 5 at Col ? Was it because he was out of the points contention ? Would he be on the 6 if he was in it? Great article. Thanks
  • + 2
 I guess cause the stages were more pedally
  • + 1
 I wish it was 140mm in the back instead of 127mm. 1/2" makes all the difference.
  • + 3
 He was in the lead then they cancelled the race so probably the right weapon!
  • + 3
 What's this ghetto tubeless set up?
  • + 2
 essentially you run a spit tube inside a tubeless tire. tube turns into a flat flap of rubber sealing the inside beads and rim...
  • + 0
 There goes everything you thought you knew about equipment selection and bike setup! Obviously Graves knows very little about technicality and goes by feel and still schools everyone...
  • + 2
 wow great interview, so cool of him to tell us all those specific details, nothing to hide because it's all rider anyway
  • + 2
 To be fair, Jared was part of the "Lycra crowds"

ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb10695675/p5pb10695675.jpg
  • + 4
 Those calves are insane
  • + 1
 Quad city
  • + 3
 That photo is from a round of the Australian XC series. Notice the collapsed forks? I'm pretty sure he won that race collapsed forks and all.
  • - 1
 "Stock titanium bolts in the shock mount hardware and some in the stem clamp. The only reason I run those though is because I like the look of the black bolts."

Yet he runs the ugliest puke green handle bars? They are very light though.
  • + 1
 you can try a hip bag ( to to go full enduro Wink ) or something similar to the mountain SWAT bib from specialized.
I´m quite happy with this bib, on shorter rides I can take water bottle Wink
  • + 3
 Schedule an appointment with your eye doctor... Renthal bars are anodized gold.
  • + 1
 Really enjoyed that interview! Graves seems to be a true, dedicated professional.
  • + 2
 LOVE these interviews. Keep it up, PB!!!
  • + 2
 great article!! what a great candid interview!
  • + 1
 Awesome article Paul ! Thanks for that.
  • + 1
 Even when climbing Jared is descending.
  • + 1
 I thought he ran a 40T Saint chainring.
  • + 1
 XTR lever + Saint caliper is pretty chill
  • + 1
 Alloy rims! Gwin and Graves proof! Those 471 are so good though!
  • + 1
 i can't wait for the yeti 7CYTB
  • + 1
 Great article!! Like always from Jared
  • + 1
 He will be on Specialized next year.
  • + 1
 36 tooth he's a machine!
  • - 1
 If only it was the 6c, what a beast that would be in Jared Graves spec

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