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Review: Devinci Chainsaw - Primed for the Bike Park

Jul 24, 2023
by Matt Beer  

To be over-biked or under-biked? That is the question when it comes to choosing an enduro bike. With 170mm of front and rear travel, Devinci’s Chainsaw leans towards the squisher end for pedal-worthy bikes. There’s a heavy focus on gravity riding as the frame allows for another configuration that creeps toward the numbers typically found on downhill bikes.

The Canadian-made alloy frame comes at reasonable prices too, with four ways to select a Chainsaw bike: two enduro builds with dual 29” wheels start at $3,899 USD, a DH-spec that will require an uplift, and a frame kit. SRAM and RockShox take care of all suspension, braking, and drivetrain pieces.

Back in April, we published our First Ride impressions and covered all of the specifics of the Chainsaw with a First Ride. In those three months, we’ve put the Chainsaw through soggy spring pedal missions and countless laps in bone-dry bike parks to investigate each configuration to share how the performance and durability rank.
Devinci Chainsaw Details
• 6061 T6 aluminum frame made in Canada w/ lifetime warranty
• Enduro configuration: 170mm front and rear travel, 29" wheels
• DH configuration: 190mm front/170 rear travel, mixed wheels
• Super Boost 157mm rear hub spacing
• 62.1-62.9° head tube angle
• 79.6° seat angle (MD)
• Sizes: S, M, L, XL
• Reach: 449, 469, 494, 519mm
• Chainstay: 425, 430, 435, 440mm (static)
• Weight: 16.3 kg / 35.9 lb (MD - GX model)
• Complete price: $3,899-4,999 USD / $4,799-5,999 CAD
• Frame only: $2,599 USD / $3,399 CAD


bigquotesLove conquering steep rolls and blasting jumps without getting battered by every braking bump? There’s a large user group that could do with the security of the slack head angle and comfort that this suspension type offers: bike park enthusiasts. Matt Beer

Frame Details

One bike, two modes. You can run either rear wheel size, a dual-crown fork, and choose between 170 or 180mm of rear wheel travel without limitations.

Review Devinci Chainsaw Photos Tom Richards
Quick-release thru-axle skewers - my shins wish these would disappear. Fortunately, you can replace this one with the flush-head axle found on the Spartan HP.

Often confused with the Spartan HP, Devinci’s carbon enduro bike, the Chainsaw shares the same suspension design and a similar shadow, albeit less sculpted. The Chainsaw is not just an aluminum version of that bike though. With 170mm of rear wheel travel, 10mm more than the Spartan HP, the greatest differentiator is the slacker geometry and ability to convert to DH-mode.

Devinci also relocates the main pivot on the front triangle of each of the four individual frame sizes to tailor the chainstay length accordingly. Those measure in at 425mm for the size SM frame and increase by 5mm as you move up the sizing chart.

All of the cables run internally and the drive-side derailleur casing takes a route through the enclosed idler guide that is placed below and behind the main pivot. The rear hub spacing runs 157mm wide, which coincides with the majority of DH bikes.

On the lower shock mount is an offset chip. Devinci primarily intended for this to be a geometry corrector depending on the wheel size you choose, the lower for a 29" wheel and the raised offset for a 27.5". In the lower flip-chip setting with a 29” rear wheel and 170mm single crown fork, the Chainsaw’s front center is splayed out with a 62.9-degree head tube angle. Placing the offset chip in the upper position to increase the head angle wouldn't be out of the question. Clearly, Devinci is targeting riders seeking higher bike park speeds and fewer hairpin switchbacks.

To switch the Chainsaw over to DH-mode, you’ll want a 190mm dual-crown fork, narrow range cassette and a fixed seat post. Oddly enough, the rear shock on the DH Chainsaw arrives with a 70mm stroke shock, but that can be bumped up to 180mm of travel by lengthening the stroke to 75mm. A cool aspect of the Chainsaw is that you can mix and match the rear wheel and shock stroke sizes without any constraints.

Geometry & Sizing



Suspension Design

Review Devinci Chainsaw Photos Tom Richards

Split-Pivot, high-pivot, blind pivot - what does that all mean? Devinci has used Split-Pivot suspension, in one form or another, for more than a decade. It takes a standard four-bar system and combines the dropout pivot to co-rotate around the rear axle.

The Chainsaw continues with Split-Pivot and places the main pivot well above the chain ring. This necessitates an idler pulley to alleviate chain growth caused by the rearward axle path.

A two-piece rocker link compresses the lengthy 225x70mm shock at a lower leverage rate than the Spartan HP too. Strangely enough, there’s no lock-out switch on the RockShox Super Deluxe air shocks that come on the Enduro SX or GX model Chainsaws. What's more perplexing than an enduro bike without a climb switch these days? A DH bike with one. The Chainsaw DH bike comes with a Super Deluxe Coil that does have a lock-out lever and strangely enough doesn't maximize all of the possible rear wheel travel. The stock Super Deluxe Coil arrives at 70mm on the DH model.

Release Date 2023
Price $4999
Travel 170
Rear Shock RockShox SuperDeluxe Select R DebonAir, 225x70T
Fork Rockshox Zeb Rush RC DebonAir 170, 44 Offset
Headset FSA Orbit
Cassette SRAM XG1275, 10-52T
Crankarms SRAM GX Eagle
Chainguide E*Thirteen LG1 Lower Slider
Bottom Bracket SRAM DUB BSA 73mm
Rear Derailleur SRAM GX Eagle 12 spd
Chain SRAM NX Eagle 12 spd
Shifter Pods SRAM GX Eagle 12 spd
Handlebar RaceFace Aeffect R35 | B:35mm | R:20mm | W:780mm
Stem V2 Pro 35. 40mm length, 0° rise
Grips Devinci Performance, lock-on
Brakes SRAM G2 RE w 200mm Centerline rotors F&R
Hubs Factor XD601SB/A
Spokes Sapim Stainless 14G w/Nylok
Rim RaceFace AR30
Tires Maxxis Minion DHF 29x2.5 3C MaxxTerra Exo+, Minion DHRII | 29x2.4 3C MaxxGrip DoubleDown
Seatpost TranzX 34.9mm 1x Lever

Review Devinci Chainsaw Photos Tom Richards
RockShox ZEB Rush RC - hot.

Review Devinci Chainsaw Photos Tom Richards
SRAM G2 RE - not so hot. Well, "hot," but in the wrong sense.

Test Bike Setup

Based on the sizing chart for the Chainsaw, I fall smack dab in the overlap between the size MD and LG. I primarily look at the reach of the frame to start with sizing, but it’s important to keep an eye on the wheelbase and also the top tube length. Based on my experience with other bikes in this dimension, I knew the MD, with a reach of 469 would be the most appropriate fit.

Like most bikes that come in for review, I gave the stock bar and stem a chance. The 20mm rise bar seemed a little low for my taste and for the slack head tube angle, I swapped out the stem for a 35mm length to slow down the swing of the steering.

A trade-off of raising the bar height was how it chewed into the length of the seated position. Based on the slack head tube and steep seat tube, the cockpit felt on the tight side. Positioning the saddle in the middle of the rails helped to alleviate the effective top tube length.

Devinci suggests between 25-30% sag on the Chainsaw, but that could vary depending on the configuration you have at hand and what dynamics you’re looking for from the bike.

Matt Beer
Location: Squamish, BC, Canada
Age: 36
Height: 5'10" / 178 cm
Weight: 170 lb / 77 kg
Industry affiliations / sponsors: None
Instagram: @mattb33r

When I set up the Super Deluxe on the enduro bike, I started by matching my body weight to the air spring pressure in empirical units; 170. After the first ride, I bumped that up since the bike rode too deep in the travel for my liking. 175 PSI landed me at 26% sag and the bike became less soggy.

After bolting on the 190mm Boxxer, I pumped it up to 165 psi and played with 400 and 450 lb/in springs to hover on either side of 30% sag out back. Since the reach shortens by 8mm with the longer fork, I installed wider bars too.


Review Devinci Chainsaw Photos Tom Richards

Here’s proof that not every enduro bike we test “climbs like a goat”. I never expected a 16.3 kg bike to motor uphill, but if you aren't regularly shuttling or lapping a chairlift, you might want to consider a few component changes.

What’s the first thing you do when you transition to pedal uphill - flick the climb switch, right? There isn’t one to be found on the Chainsaw SX or GX enduro builds. A high-pivot bike with 170mm of rear wheel travel needs all the help it can get to climb well.

Anyone who’s tried a high-pivot bike knows their magical powers for descending. Assuming that the bike also had an idler, it’s impossible to ignore the increased friction, even if that is as little as one percent. Add in a lower pulley that furthers the chain tension and you’ll be keeping your drivetrain meticulously clean for efficiency points, just like Levy.

The saving grace for the Chainsaw’s climbing ability is that you’re not hanging off the back of the bike and the rear tire sticks to the ground. A steep seat tube angle and lengthening chainstay keep you from doing unwanted wheelies.

Unfortunately, that’s a two-steps forward, one back situation because the slack head angle creates a compact seat position, requiring an attentive mind to hold the bars straight. That’s not to say that slack head angles can’t climb well, but pushing those two forward-thinking numbers together smushes the cockpit space.

So what would make the Chainsaw more enjoyable to pedal?

First and foremost would be a climb switch. Strangely enough, the Chainsaw DH model comes with a Super Deluxe Coil Select+ RT, where “T” stands for “Threshold”, or climb switch - go figure.

Next would be a longer dropper post. Heck, I even tried to track down a 39.3mm quick-release collar for less fiddling to change directions on the hill. There’s 270mm of real estate in the seat tube so in theory, a 180mm-travel OneUp Dropper post (267mm insertion length) would do the trick.

I also removed the lower pulley to reduce every machine’s worst enemy; friction. Once that left the chat after the second ride, it felt like the handbrake was released. Over the course of review, I never dropped a chain once. You can expect the chain and ring to wear at a higher rate since it will wiggle side to side with the reduced tension.


Review Devinci Chainsaw Photos Tom Richards

Enduro Mode: The Chainsaw doesn’t have one foot in because 62.9 degree is aggressive for a enduro bike and I dig it. Really, it’s built for the kind of rider that wants to retire their old school downhill bike and take advantage of all the trails on the mountain. They’ll still prioritize shuttling but with a dropper post and low gearing, getting off to push up the slightest incline won’t be necessary.

If you’re focusing on enduro racing specifically, I’d look towards the Spartan HP. The steeper head angle will respond quicker at lower speeds. With that said, the Chainsaw’s long front center doesn’t feel twitchy at speed and you can correct understeering through slippery corners as if time is slowed down. That will bring confidence for all types of riders in dusty berms and slimy roots.

Countering the negative climbing attributes about the Chainsaw, the descending qualities are top notch. The ride is buttery, quiet, and intuitive. Too much progression or wallowing wasn’t a worry, even with the air shock.

A cloud-like ride is controlled by the lengthy Super Deluxe shock. Often air shocks can have a tough time breaking into the travel smoothly and even taper off the support in the middle of the travel. That’s not the case on the Chainsaw.

Review Devinci Chainsaw Photos Tom Richards

DH Mode: I see a lot of riders on full-fledged DH bikes these days that wouldn’t dare sign up for a race and wonder if they’d be better off wielding a hopped-up freeride bike - one with a serious amount of travel that still comes unglued from the trail when directed - like a Chainsaw.

Hanging onto a bike in a downhill race can require serious weight shifts off the back of the bike. Switching out for the smaller rear wheel adds to the backside clearance for those huck-a-buck moments and helps the Chainsaw whip around corners even quicker.

Devinci advises that the fork bumpers contact the downtube. In the case of the RockShox Boxxer, this does limit the turning radius significantly. My concerns here were noticed when I tried to turn the bars and squash jumps or get sideways in the air - never in any corners you’d find on a downhill track, though.

A 50mm stem and 56mm offset was chosen for the Chainsaw DH. On bikes with head angles as slack as this one at 62.1 degrees (DH-mode), I’d prefer the shorter 46mm option that seems less detached from the steering input. A shorter stem would produce more intuitive steering. You’ll also lose 8mm of reach in DH-mode.

Switching out for the Super Deluxe Coil and an extra 10mm of travel is a subtle change. The air is impressively smooth, but the coil does give you a more linear feel through the mid-stroke. Basically, the bike rides a bit deeper and means you’ll have to yank harder to get the bike off the ground if no jumps are present.

I toyed with a 400 and 450 lb/in spring, seeing the benefits of both. Keeping one of each around different tracks or freeride days would be a sensible plan. On the softer side, I took advantage of the hydraulic bottom out dial on the Super Deluxe Coil and ran four fifths of the way closed. It’s enough to take the sting out of flattening the shock slower, whereas the air controls the end of the travel by ramping sooner and has a less mechanical feel.

After logging serious miles on the Chainsaw, there were a few talking points on the durability of the frame and servicing of the drivetrain.

The cable routing is ultra quiet and doesn’t wander as the suspension articulates. Similarly, the chain chatter is non-existent. I’d prefer to have a guide similar to what Norco placed on the Range - a slider that doesn’t put tension on the chain but still protects it.

I did have to keep an eye on the main rocker and seatstay pivot bolts. If this happens on a bike for review, I’ll let it go the first time around. On the second time around, I’ll fully clean the threaded bits and rebuild them accordingly. Luckily, a third occurrence didn’t happen but it’s worth keeping an eye on for the first few outings.

Technical Report

Review Devinci Chainsaw Photos Tom Richards

SRAM G2 RE Brakes: Hitting a certain MSRP can’t be an easy task for a product manager, but everyone needs stronger brakes. Beginners require brakes that don’t fade because they haven’t yet developed practical braking habits. Experts need brakes that deliver the power quicker. Either way, the G2 REs were underwhelming, and to be fair, most brakes on the market are. Sticky pistons caused the pads to rub and the lever to feel inconsistent.

Super Deluxe (air): Looking past the lack of a lockout, the Super Deluxe is a standout component on the Chainsaw. Once the air pressure was dialled in, I found generous support through the middle of the travel and never needed to play with volume spacers.

ZEB Rush RC: This chassis would let you tack on most of the hop-ups to turn the fork into a ZEB Ultimate, like the pressure relief valves, Buttercups, and Charger 3. The performance was primo as is, especially considering the total price of the Chainsaw GX. Singular rebound and compression adjusters let you dial in your settings with less tinkering.

Which Model is the Best Value?


Since the Chainsaw only has two models in the enduro class, the choice would be straightforward for me. Both build kits use the same rear shock, but nearly all of the other components are bumped up a notch on the GX build.

For an extra $800, there’s a lighter and crispier drivetrain, plus 4-piston brakes. The ZEB fork is also 200g lighter than the Domain and has a compression adjuster.

How Does It Compare?

Devinci Chainsaw - $4,699 USD
2022 Norco Range C1
Norco Range C1 - $8,999 USD

Considering that the Devinci Chainsaw and the Norco Range are two high-pivot bikes that are equal in travel, they are worlds apart in terms of construction. The Range’s fighter jet looks while the Chainsaw features a more rudimentary four-bar appearance. One requires carbon construction and a mesmerizing amount of hardware, the other has Canadian-made alloy tubes, fewer bolts, and requires less patience to wrench on.

Even with its precious carbon tubes, the Range is heavier, especially the comparable C3 build. The entry level price of the Range C3 puts it $1,100 USD above the Chainsaw GX, where as the Range C1 is nearly five figures.

Then there are multiple ways to build each bike, or so it seems. Norco has been racing the Range frame at DH races for the last three seasons and despite the fact that aftermarket suspension tuning brands, like WRP and Cascade, have been building linkage components for the Range, no official parts are available. Norco is also insistent that the Range is complex and designed specifically around dual 29” wheels too.

Devinci takes a user-friendly approach with fewer limitations. Other than toggling the flip-chip, no parts are needed to switch between rear wheel sizes. Heck, you could even run the enduro setup with the longer rear shock.

According to both brand’s fit guides, I landed on the correct size for each bike, a medium for the Chainsaw and a large Range. The Range’s wheelbase is massive in comparison to the Chainsaw. 16mm of that lies ahead of the BB and another 12 to the back.

On flatter or flow trails, the Range takes a fair bit of determination to move around, whereas the Chainsaw is less laborious to purposefully pull the bike off the ground. I’d equate that to the shorter chainstays and lower stack which give you more leverage to drive your feet into the pedals and get your hips behind the rear wheel. On the flip-side, the Range is more stable at speed, in particular, how the rear wheel tracks through loose, flat turns predictably since your weight is planted evenly on both axles.

The decked out Range C1 isn’t a light bike, but climbing was more comfortable and balanced. A shorter seat tube and longer dropper was a huge win, plus there is a climb switch on the C3 build as well. One downside of the shocks fitted to the Range was that they are coil sprung. The Chainsaw can run either type of shock and an air spring allows for quick changes depending on the trail appetite, which is useful if you’re riding high jumps one day and slow tech the next.

Review Devinci Chainsaw Photos Tom Richards


+ Eats bumps without feeling glued to the ground at all times.
+ Excellent value, Canadian-made frame.
+ Versatile configurations for gravity focused riders.


- Climbing is a chore; no lockout on shock, short dropper, cramped seat position, pulley friction.
- The G2 RE brakes hold back the Chainsaw’s descending capabilities.
- Rocker link pivots loosened on occasion.

Pinkbike's Take

bigquotesDevinci has honed in on riders who want to make the most of the bike park experiences. There are no limits as to the ways to build up a Chainsaw; at one point I left the dropper post and the wide-range gearing installed with the dual-crown fork and MX wheels.

The Chainsaw is definitely full of downhill spirit that’s only held back by the braking power of the G2 REs. After a brake upgrade, the Chainsaw is ready to take on the gnarliest lines and lap chair lifts all day. 
Matt Beer

Author Info:
mattbeer avatar

Member since Mar 16, 2001
380 articles

  • 120 8
 Putting G2 brakes on this is a slap in the face.
  • 35 11
 The G2 RE brakes actually work a treat if you spec them with the appropriate size rotor for the job (180mm on 29" rear wheels shouldn't even be a thing). In my case, they came stock on my DH bike. All I did was swap the 220mm front to the rear wheel and they work better than I'd ever expected under my 270lbs carcass.
  • 17 8
 @m47h13u: which is a slap in the face since any brake on 220 rotor will stop, however it is not something that riders should upgrade out of the box on park bike
  • 14 10
 @m47h13u: but is that because you have never tried anything better to understand the flaws of the g2?
  • 63 0
 @Grady-Harris: Some of us were around for things like the HFX-9 and Juicy Ultimates of this world...
  • 27 2
 The G2 RE uses the Code caliper - so it's not a crazy bad choice. Agree with others saying upgrade the rotors.
  • 6 1
 That's the old Code caliper, not as awful as other G2s. Still I would rather see at least something like a Code RS (whatever it's called now) and bigger rotors.
  • 17 1
 @tom666: *the previous generation Code calliper, which we were still seeing at Rampage on many pros’ bikes up until very recently
  • 33 0
 It's in line with Stevie's spirit of never using the brakes
  • 22 1
 I have the belief that any bike with a 150mm or greater fork should have Codes, if using SRAM, and at least 200mm rotors. I don’t think I’m alone in that view. Granted, I’m 215lbs and weigh more with my trail bike than most riders on an EBike, but good brakes benefit everyone with a downhill longer than 500 vertical.

That said, I’d be willing to try the RE brakes as others have mentioned for having Code calipers. I just still don’t know why that brake exists. Why have that many SKUs in your catalog?
  • 4 0
 @whambat: accidentally downvoted, sorry. Agree with all of your points.
  • 5 0
 @whambat: I'm guessing those RE brakes exist to use up supply of old parts.
  • 1 0
 @whambat: Sram agrees with you it seems, as their new brake (the Maven?) seems to be a downhill brake, while the Code will become and enduro brake I guess
  • 5 1
 @mtmc99: Trickling down the previous generation code calipers to their cheaper brakes seems pretty logical.
  • 5 3
 I dislike the Super Boost 157mm more than the G2 brakes. I think the G2 brakes could be improved by a brake pad change. SRAM puts sintered brake pads stock on Codes, but puts organic brake pads on G2, Level, and Guides.
  • 2 0
 @whambat I agree. Especially in light of the recent fork travel restrictions (esp. on the lyrik) in the sram/rockshox range, any bike with a zeb should be fitted with codes, no less.
Sid/Pike: level/g2
Lyrik: g2/code
Zeb/boxxer: code/newunreleasedbrake
  • 3 0
 @ridedigrepeat: the G2 RE brakes are little more than G2 levers with Code calipers basically. They're purpose-built for mid level e-bikes but out of place on a serious descending machine like the Chainsaw.
  • 1 0
 Speaking of brakes, if we put aside two s-es (and Trickstuff), what would be the most powerful brake on the market? Hayes, TRP, Cura? MT7 with some other non plastic levers?
  • 3 1
 @pakleni: google the Blister brake shootout. They ranked Hope v4 as most powerful, the Cascade Components caliper / Code lever system second, and Hayes third.
  • 10 1
 In order to respect our price point for the Chainsaw GX12s, we went with the Sram G2 RE brakes. These brakes have different calipers than the G2 R. They have a better feeling, more power, and the bite feels crisper. The caliper is in fact the Code's older version which features 4 bigger pistons.
  • 4 4
 @whambat: I think anything that's a bike shouldn't have sram brakes
  • 1 0
 @AndrewHornor: Real world testing puts Trickstuff at the top 99% of the time followed by Hayes Dominions , then the rest. Hope V4s are nice but modulation is off, too slidey
  • 1 1
 @garydonosti: Trickstuff was not in that shootout heheh. For the price it better be the best.

@cyclesdevinci: Thanks for being in the comments. The value here is legit! Bigger rotors would be a huge upgrade and maybe not add a ton of cost at your end. Though I do not know all that goes into hitting a price point.
  • 1 0
 @cyclesdevinci: I completely respect trying to improve affordability with your products. I just ask you understand how the costs of upgrading brake components are way higher than other places that are often used in budget cutting, such as shifters. I’m way happier riding a bike with higher end brakes and mid grade shifting, and I think a lot of other experienced riders feel the same way. But, as I said before, I’d be willing to see if these RE brakes are as good as you say. But, really, how much cheaper are the Guide REs vs Code’s cheapest version? If SRAM’s giving you super fantastic deals on the REs, then I kind of get it. If it’s $10-20/ unit savings, maybe worth having the better product.
  • 1 0
 @whambat: at retail the difference is $21.

I might actually rather have the G2 RE. Assuming it's very similar to the previous gen Code R, it should have nicer modulation and a shorter lever throw than the current Code R. It is down on power and heat management, but you can bandaid both those issues with a big rotor. (Not that big rotors have no downsides).

A lot of people would choose Code R for the inverse reasons; a little more power, better heat management, and not to be ignored - Bleeding Edge.

The current Code caliper has a healthy amount of pad rollback, which is good as a system with Swinglink levers, but it falls flat when paired with the basic R lever. Makes for an unpleasantly long throw and somehow LESS control at the bite point rather than more.

Sorry got a bit out of control there... Code R is one of my pet peeves.
  • 1 0
 @AndrewHornor: thanks for the tech details. Things I didn’t know. I went to the Code RSCs about 5 years ago when Saints were back ordered when I was building up my last bike and haven’t looked back. I have test ridden bikes with the standard Guides and been less than impressed in comparison. Sounds like the RE is a possible good blend of the two. Just a bit of an odd naming choice in my opinion. Probably better to use the Code name like a Code E (for enduro) as you get grumpy people like me wanting stronger brakes than a Guide, which has always been disappointing for many for being 4-piston.
  • 3 0
 @AndrewHornor: I have Code RSCs and on 220mm rotors f+r they're okay. Not high praise for a $500+ top of the line set of brakes.

Shimano XT M8120 on my other bike with ice tech rotors 180r/203f are way better.

When I see Pinkbike editors calling RSCs the best on the market I think they must have either very different criteria or the RSCs they have are not the same as mine.
  • 60 0
 Thanks @mattbeer for this detailed review. We are taking good notes of what you pointed and we'll work to improve next years' models!
  • 4 10
flag Velosexualist FL (Jul 24, 2023 at 11:59) (Below Threshold)
 @cyclesdevinci what do you consider improving for the next year? Everything mentioned or some certain things? Do you agree with everything or disagree with something?
  • 6 0
 Please put a bashguard on these things. They need it
  • 10 1
 Matt Beer here .. just my alias. Shimano drive please !
  • 3 5
 Also gearbox, inverted forks
  • 2 0
 @Velosexualist: sounds like an angleset and shock w/lever..btr brakes.
So that's just all part spec stuff.
  • 1 0
 @wburnes: a gear box and fork in one? mmmm interesting
  • 4 0
 If you are falling for it, I am also Matt Beer..... call me crazy but I like a full 27.5 option. My 2019 Spartan is still very fun!
  • 3 1
 @HuckminsterfullerAF: I agree! I mean it’s a park/freeride bike. No reason for 29” wheels to be ruining the fun before it starts.
  • 8 0
 @Velosexualist: It's diffucult to point excatly. But these kind of reviews and also the comments help us bring valuable feedbacks to the table when it's time to decide specs and build options for our bikes. We understand that bike components and specs cannot please everyone. Everybody has their own preferences. In the end, we have to consider parts availability, leadtimes, respect cost & retail targets, and etc.
  • 9 0
 @cyclesdevinci: your SX spec will please a total of zero loyal customers
  • 3 0
 @cyclesdevinci: thank you for the reply!
  • 3 0
 @cyclesdevinci: This is great to see a company reading the comments. While brakes can be changed at a later date somewhat inexpensively, a climb switch on the shock adds a whole lot more value to a bike than it costs. Personally, not having one makes me look elsewhere. Just my $0.02
  • 1 0
 @cyclesdevinci: Would it be possible to run the Chainsaw as an aluminium Spartan by making the head angle steeper? With flipchip + dual 29" or an angleset? I understand this is a freeride oriented bike, but the slack HA and reach (can size down) seem to be the only extreme geo numbers to play with in order to make it a more of an "all rounder" canadian made bike.
  • 58 6
 $3,800 with SRAM SX. f*ck off.
  • 14 26
flag Compositepro (Jul 24, 2023 at 8:41) (Below Threshold)
 Expected at least a two stroke motor for that
  • 90 1
 SX build should cost less than frame only option
  • 4 2
 @Compositepro: hahaha: sarcasm, meet the internet
  • 17 1
 @DizzyNinja: charge SRAM a disposal fee
  • 3 5
 @alexhyland: its ok you need morons to balance the equation
  • 38 0
 Great review and bigups to Devinci for making a capable and affordable freeride bike for the masses. Canadian made is a lovely touch too. The bike industry needs more projects like this.
  • 7 1
 Thanks! Yes, we wanted the Chainsaw to speak to a maximum of riders, of any levels really. The beauty of it is that the same frame can be built with so many different configurations. We wanted to bike to bring people to the park, trails, and in the sport in general. Everything we did regarding the name, and the launch was stamped by Stevie's mom, Tianna. She was amazing to work with for this project!
  • 35 0
 Even going back to the days of QR I've never banged a shin on the rear skewer ?! What are you doing?
  • 6 0
 Ya i1 was trying to visualize that!
  • 6 0
  • 23 0
 Long live chainsaw
  • 19 2
 RIP Steve Smith.
Pity the article did not mention the bike’s namesake.
Long live Chainsaw indeed!
  • 12 0
 A Cane Creek Kitsuma Coil would solve this bike's climbing issues, because the climbing switch increases both rebound and compression damping. Run it slightly firm on trail climbs or fully locked out on the road. Nobody else's climbing switch comes close.
  • 8 2
 you should try a manitou mara pro, the climb switch si a complete different shim stack, it's awesome
  • 5 0
 Have you tried a dvo jade x? the lockout on it is insane, turns my enduro sled into a fully rigid climbing goat
  • 5 0
 Cane Creek climb switch is by far the best for feel and traction, but others are stiffer. The Formula Mod, for example, is very firm and would be a good match for this bike IMO.
  • 11 0
 Have one reserved for a park day at Whistler. Can’t wait!
  • 1 0
 @BermJunky how can one do that?
  • 9 0
 Cue the the weld quality comments...in all fairness they should have chosen a nicer looking example for close up photos though.
  • 3 1
 I try to be positive, but those welds. Dayum. Looks like something I welded.
  • 12 0
 My transition looks the same. On the flip side at least a human being is employed to make the bike.
  • 1 0
 Never mind that, hopefully the bolts line up
  • 7 2
 Actually a split pivot is a linkage driven single pivot, NOT a 4-bar.

"Devinci has used Split-Pivot suspension, in one form or another, for more than a decade. It takes a standard four-bar system and combines the dropout pivot to co-rotate around the rear axle."

It's a pet peeve of mine that bikes with split pivots get high praise but right next to them the linkage driven single pivot gets panned for being 'basic'. You didn't do that here @MattBeer but you did mistakenly identify the suspension type.
  • 1 2
 I don't disagree with your sentiment, but count the bars...
  • 4 0
 @Tambo: one could argue that the axle path is only defined by the single pivot. A four bar sort of implies the axle path is defined by all four bars.
  • 3 1
 @Tambo: so one singular pivot point from the main pivot to the axle...

Seems like all other pivots are only driving the shock when you look closer.
And I'm not claiming anything unknown, this is well established fact, if the axle moves in an arc directly controlled by the pivot point of the chainstay with no pivots in between it IS a single pivot. No matter how you drive the shock.
Kind of like the erroneous claims about some modern '6-bar' suspensions in reviews. These are usually short link bikes with a couple few linkages driving the shock, ala Polygon Colossus.
  • 3 1
 @plustiresaintdead: not even sort of, 100%, absolute fact that's how they are defined.
  • 1 1
 @plustiresaintdead: of course, but suspension is more than just axle path. These are sometimes called "swingarm 4-bar", which is probably more honest. Think of it another way; it's a 4-bar but the rear axle is connected to the 1st and 2nd links, instead of just the 2nd. Sure that means the axle path is a pure arc (therefore antisquat is characteristic of a single pivot), but antirise and leverage are more characteristic of a Horst layout. It's definitely a half way house, in terms of its performance/behaviour. Anyhow, we're all preaching to the choir here
  • 3 0
 @Tambo: You are ofc. free to use that kind of roundabout justification to press the words "4-bar" in there, but that is just causing more confusion than actually helping.
"Linkage driven single pivot" is the right phrase to use here becaue it describes exactly what is happening: Axle path determined by single pivot and other characteristics like anti-rise, leverage, etc. determined by the linkage driving the shock. It doesn't matter how many bits there are in the linkage or where they are located.
  • 2 2
 @Tambo: except that you are completely incorrect.
In a 4-bar suspension layout you have a pivot near the chainring, and one before the axle, that isn't true here.
This is without a doubt a single pivot bike.
When talking suspension layout the number of linkages and pivots driving the shock are not how you define it, but the number of links and pivots between the axle and the main pivot.
You seem to be confusing the two.
  • 1 3
 @Tambo: sure, but we are discussing mountain bike suspension types.
I get you don't want to admit to being wrong...
But it's pretty obvious by now.
  • 8 4
 DH 190 mm fork - I find 62 HA too slack for my taste, i would put a 1° head angle adjuster in, gain some reach and slightly raise the bottom bracket height, it's pretty low at 341mm for a dh bike.

Great looking bike.
  • 5 0
 This is a hefty and disqualifying con:

"Climbing is a chore; no lockout on shock, short dropper, cramped seat position, pulley friction."
  • 2 0
 Enough cons there to start a penal colony...
  • 3 0
 I've had the DH version for just over a month now and it is a perfect park bike.It jumps well and is super fun in tech.I did go over all the pivot bolts first ride(only the main one needed a tweak) and retension the rear wheel but that's pretty standard for a new bike.It's a lot longer in wheelbase and reach than my Scott Gambler yet feels much livelier.The Code brakes are adequate but I'm a Shimano girl so I'll be swapping them for the Zees on my Gambler.
  • 2 0
 I have about 300kms on my GX Enduro. While I have not had any issues with suspension hardware coming loose. I did torch my brakes the first time riding it at Mount Washington bike park (16 laps totalling just over 50kms) and rattled all of the rear wheel spokes loose. The only changes I have made were putting the flip chip to the high setting, swapped in a 50mm stem and 35mm rise bar. The drivetrain drag is considerable (makes my Druid feel like a rocket ship) but honestly seated climbing was a lot better than I expected it to be. For what it is and capable of, I think it is a pretty solid bike.
  • 1 0
 I'd have like to hear how the bike performed with air and coil at same 180mm of travel. Sounds like you preferred the air shock if only it had a lock out, wonder if it would have been even better with 10mm extra travel. How would you build it for park only @mattbeer
  • 8 7
 Throw online stones at me if you want, but I don’t get at all what’s from Stevie Smith in this bike. Yeah, I know that he rode for Devinci. Even that simple fact is not clear for new riders reading this piece. No mention of Stevie in this review (perhaps that’s on PB, not on manufacturers side), no link to a very well done documentary about him. Bike has no price or even value advantage, which could serve for Stevie’s goal of getting more kids into it (according to what’s been pictured in media, didn’t know him personally). Subjectively, the frame is not beautiful at all. I don’t know. Kind of “meh” bike to me.
  • 2 0
 It does actually have a price advantage vs the Spartan HP. Versus bikes from other brands, probably not so much.
  • 1 4
 @Glory831Guy: then one should be their fan already to notice that… Thanks for the info anyway
  • 3 0
 Stevie came from a poorer part of town. I remember watching him shred pioneer park on ghetto rigs. This bike speaks to his legacy by giving a fully capable price point sled so that maybe there will be more kids like him.
  • 3 1
 This is the first time that a reviewer has hinted that shock stroke restrictors on coil shocks are absolutely pointless.
How is no one noticing this?
It probably shouldn't, but they really wind me up.
Utterly pointless!
  • 10 0
 unless they stop your wheel or shock body hitting your frame...
  • 1 1
 @thebradjohns: yeah I get that's the theory - but it never happens. I've removed stroke restrictors from my last 3 bikes. Pretty easy to check it's safe, by removing spring and testing
  • 3 0
 @IllestT: some bikes have very undesirable axle paths and/or leverage ratios near the end stroke when you "long-shock" them, even if it doesn't cause interference. Often there's a reason the travel ends where the designers have chosen.
  • 1 0
 @mammal: you got an example?
  • 1 0
 @IllestT: 2011-2014(?) Giant Trance is the first one that comes to mind. 140mm bike that can be a 155mm bike by removing a travel spacer, but not in a good way.
  • 1 0
 @IllestT: Aside from the Giant I mentioned, any bike with an axle path that becomes fairly forward in direction during the last portion of it's intended stroke, is likely to end up heading VERY forward in the extend travel region. So yeah, you've got "extra suspension" but it's not doing you much good.
  • 2 1
 @mammal: that bike is pre metric shocks, so sorry but irrelevant
  • 1 0
 @IllestT: What the heck are you even talking about?
  • 1 0
 @mammal: stroke restrictors only became widespread with the introduction of metric shocks
  • 1 0
 @IllestT: Oh, I understand what you're saying. Travel limiting spacers have been used in air shocks for a long time, and that was just the first example I could think of (it was 2014-2016 MY by the way). Coil limiters would be used in the design for the same reason as an air shock limiter, whether that's to avoid frame interference, load forces in an unwanted area/direction, or poor kinematics/axle path. And I can confirm from experience about the poor kinematics/axle path situation.

Not saying you can't or shouldn't, just pointing out that there's often a reason they're there, whether you want to heed that reason or not.
  • 3 1
 "Quick-release thru-axle skewers - my shins wish these would disappear"? How on earth are your shins ever coming anywhere near your rear axle QR? You must really hate pedals and chainrings...
  • 1 0
 I also wondered what in the actual hell he might be doing to ever have a flash to hardware interaction with his axles.
  • 3 2
 Someone tell me (as a relative noob to DH parks) - why would you have a bike like this instead of a dual crown, 200/200mm travel bike? Doesn't seem like it is really a good pedal bike either, so why not just bump up to the classic DH?
  • 1 0
 Great review again by @mattbeer, I picked up a Nukeproof dissent after reading the review and I’m loving it perfect blend of flow trail tech trail descending it does. It’s too bad that Shimano stopped making the zee group, this would be a perfect bike for it (DH).
  • 4 0
 didn't know that the Norco Range C1 has a transition patrol paint job
  • 4 4
 Unless you're using wheelbase as the driving/sizing factor, head tube angle barely effects cockpit space. Since both reach and ETT are measured from the top of the head tube, changing the head tube angle won't effect either of those measurements. (Yes, sure, lots of spacers under the stem will push the bar back, but we're talking only a centimeter with 64-deg HTA and 25mm (a lot) of spacers, and that can be completely mitigated with a high rise bar)
  • 2 0
 Why call this an enduro bike?
It's a park bike. What's with brands these days trying to get away from that denomination? Smaller market?
  • 4 1
 Could have kept the wilson.
  • 1 0
 For sure, loved the Wilson
  • 1 0
 I was wondering that, no more dedicated dh bike from them?
  • 4 5
 I could be totally wrong here, but in my limited experience with high pivot bikes they seem to eat up bumps in a way low pivot bikes usually can't because they have a rearward axle path and are thus more stable. However, my understanding is that they don't jump very well for the same reason. I can find tech anywhere. My main reason for going to a bike park is to find jumps and drops that I wouldn't normally find on natural trails. This doesn't seem to be the kind of bike for that. Maybe that's why there's an "enduro setup".
  • 2 1
 Dual link suspension systems like Maestro, DW link, VPP, etc, can also have a portion of the travel that is rearward.
  • 3 0
 Depends on the particular bike. I have a shore and I was surprised at how well it jumps, it's a pretty supportive platform it's easy to get a lot of pop out of it compared to more race aimed bikes around the same travel
  • 3 0
 @dhmad: All designs that have the pivot above the BB (so 100% of the bikes that are covered here these days) have a rearward component to the rear wheel travel. They're usually on their way forward again by the time you've passed the sag point though.
  • 1 0
 Seems like a size L would be unwieldy. Super slack with a long reach. I guess the chainstays grows when you compress, but still
  • 3 1
 Man I want one of these but I've got a 27.5 front wheel and fork. The man himself won his WC on a 26.
  • 3 4
 Right? I was disappointed seeing wagon wheels (as this is a park bike), and yeah he was definitely not a 29’er kind of guy.
I think this bike is targeted at jerrys who need the latest wheelpath, maximum traction/rollover for their occasional blue tables freeriding train sess. I mean they definitely have more money than actual park rats, so can’t really blame them.
  • 1 0
 @emptybe-er: Do you think he'd still be on a smaller front wheel now then?
  • 1 0
 @chakaping: Of course he wouldn't. He'd have won a few more WCs on 29rs by now. How ever it's annoying that the sport is like this now, I've got to buy more shit to get the cool frame I want. I mean I'll cope and buy an old 27.5 frame that is still really really good and more than I need, and it'll be cheap. It's just annoying, I have a very good fork and wheelset that just shouldn't be redundant like that and I have to buy second hand to use it.
  • 1 0
 @chakaping: While racing? Of course not. But if not racing/xc, he’d be on 27.5 like all the other riders that don’t think of fun when they think of more flex/rollover.
  • 1 0
 @bikes-arent-real: I’ll be doing the same. I still have 2 brand new 26” stans flow rims for dj and 2 new 27.5 470’s for my next wheelsets.. It is very annoying. Look at skating. You can still get a nice setup for $150 and I can throw new trucks on my old deck no issue. The whole 15sp 29’er sport utility wireless movement is just selling out to people who have plenty of $ and shit is so complicated and proprietary that it’s killed the idea of having a small bike shop with parts on hand.
  • 1 0
 High pivot with idler frame designs can really fudge up the cable routing, same with the Trek session, it's just looks like a messy bodge.
  • 2 0
 I think a much better comparison would have been the Norco Shore since it has similar free ride/park intentions.
  • 3 0
 Do any of the proceeds go to something related to Steve Smith ?
  • 1 0
 So many peeps bagging out the component build on these bikes..

Specs pretty solid for a very affordable rig.

Please explain how you all would do better for the same $?
  • 1 0
 Loved my old Spartan though 27.5 it was wicked , this new one looks really sweet. Too bad I just got my Slashand it’s really good!.
  • 3 1
 surprised there's no lock out on the rear shock?
  • 5 3
 G2 Brakes are a real bizarre choice on this bike....
  • 7 5
 Stem you put on is too short. Messed up the fitting.
  • 4 1
 what’s wrong with a 35mm stem?
  • 9 4
 @rookie100: Diminishing returns. Does he need the 30mm stem to keep from going over the bars? Nope. Not on a bike with a 62deg head angle, and since he's tall enough to almost fit on a size Large, the short stem is going to kill his ergonomics with no real performance benefit. Should have went 45-50mm stem IMO.
  • 2 0
 @flattire: I choose my stem to change the steering feel, not top tube length. Everyone has different priorities though.
  • 3 0
 I also wondered why he complained about not enough seat to stem length but chose a medium at 5'11" and then shortened the stem.
Either keep the stem length or size up, seems easy enough right?

I don't get complaining about the effective tope tube when the reviewer shortened it, AND chose the smaller of two sizes they fit on.

Comments @mattbeer?
  • 1 0
 @rookie100: nothing, in fact I want to try a stem that places my bars exactly on top of my steerer, but Matt complained about the effective top tube but reduced the reach by using a shorter stem, like he created his own problems.
  • 2 0
 @BarryWalstead: Looking at the pics he does have stumpy looking T-rex arms though. So a large might be too much bike.
  • 1 0
 @flattire: sure enough, but complaining about not enough tope tube length (sea to bar length actually) after reducing it is insane AND not a great review.
We want objective reviews, not this review.
  • 1 0
 @NYShred: what a nice one. Really stung me.
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