Specialized has released a few different iterations of their Command Post over the years, with the IRCC model reviewed below being the latest version that allows the rider to fine-tune the height of their saddle by way of ten micro-adjust positions once you've lowered the post by 25mm. Specialized calls this their Cruiser Control technology, and it should be a big step forward over the IRCC's predecessor that offered three set seat heights. The mechanically controlled, air sprung Command Post IRCC is available in 75, 100, and 125mm travel options, as well as 30.9mm and 31.6mm diameters. The 125mm, 30.9mm model I spent my time on weighed 586 grams on my scale, including the new SRL remote but without any cable or housing. MSRP $350 USD.
Command Post IRCC Details• Intended use: having fun
• Travel: 75, 100, 125mm (tested)
• Travel type: indexed
• Adjustable air spring
• Cable operated
• Routing: internal
• SRL and grip-mount remotes incl.
• Diameters: 30.9mm, 31.6mm
• Weight: 586 grams (post and SRL remote)
• MSRP: $350 USD
•
www.specialized.com /
@Specialized What's InsideJust like Specialized's earlier Command Post designs, the IRCC employs an expanding collet system that locks the post into position by engaging with notches machined into the inner wall of the post's lower tube. The purely mechanical design uses a wedge that sits inside of the expanding collet, and pushing the thumb lever extracts the wedge from within the collet and allows it to relax inwards away from the notches. This frees the post to move up or down through its travel. Release the thumb lever and the spring-loaded wedge retracts back into the collet, forcing it to expand outwards into one of the notches and locking the seat post into position.
The IRCC features a three-stage travel system: the top 25mm of travel is non-indexed, meaning the seat is either all the way up or lowered to the first indexing point at 25mm. Below that is 45mm of micro-adjust, with ten different positions to choose from in that 45mm (making it 4.5mm per position). The bottom 50mm of travel is non-indexed, so you're either running the post fully lowered or up 50mm so that it locks into the lowest micro-adjust position. Got that? Good.
An air spring that runs between 15 and 20 PSI provides rebound, and the valve at the post's head can be accessed without removing or angling the seat back, not something that can be said of all of the internally routed posts that feature a head-mounted valve. And speaking of routing, the IRCC is only available in an internally routed setup - that's the IR in the name while the CC stands for the ten-position Cruiser Control design.
Specialized has decided to go with a single-bolt head, a decision that is obviously going to save some weight over to a dual, opposing-bolt setup. Anyone who's used a seat post with a single clamp bolt knows all too well how coming down hard on the seat can cause it to tilt back, regardless of how crazy you get with the hex keys, but the IRCC's single-bolt setup is very different than what Specialized's used to employ. Rather than wedges that are supposed to lock into place but often don't, the IRCC's rail clamps squeeze down onto the post's head that's shaped like an arch. The saddle angle is determined by where the clamps sit on this arch, and the design should resist unwanted tilting no matter how hard you come down on the seat.
The IRCC includes Specialized's awesome SRL remote lever that mimics the position and feel of a shifter's thumb paddle. That means that anyone who's ever operated a front derailleur should feel at home using the SRL lever, but Specialized also includes their standard grip-mounted remote that will be the way to go if your bike has a front shifter on it - the SRL remote won't work for you, sorry.
InstallationThe Command Post IRCC I've been using came stock on a 6Fattie test bike and was performing flawlessly, but that's no reason not to take it off and mess around with it. That also gave me a chance to re-install the seat post, which turned out to be easier than making a smoothie but slightly more difficult than pouring yourself a bowl of cereal. Do you own a set of hex keys and possess a small amount of common sense? Then you've got this.
The cable and housing run through the frame, and then the cable is clamped into a barrel that sits in the actuation arm. The housing stop is slotted, and the barrel can be popped out easily, so you can disconnect the seat post and remove it in about twenty seconds, but without messing up the cable tension settings. And speaking of cable tension, setting it correctly is only a matter of pulling it slightly snug and tightening down the tiny set screw in the barrel with a 2mm hex key - thankfully, you can use 3mm key to hold the opposite side so the barrel doesn't spin in your fingers. Any tension adjustment can be done via a barrel adjuster at the lever, but the IRCC isn't finicky in that regard.
PerformanceThe first thing that any rider using the IRCC is going to notice is how its SRL remote is invisible. Well, it's obviously not invisible, but it is
exactly where you'd expect it to be when you need it; no reaching, no unwrapping the thumb any more than is necessary. I'd agree that most companies are pretty dialed on this front, but the SRL remote feels like the best of the bunch, probably because I've spent twenty years pushing the thumb paddle of a front shifter and that is exactly what the SRL has been modeled after. Specialized's tiny grip-mounted remote is also nice, but the SRL is next level.
The IRCC's action is smooth, but it does have a distinctly mechanical feel about it. That's to be expected - it is a mechanical post, after all - and I'm a fan of the positive, 'ka-chung' action that won't leave you guessing as to what's going on beneath you. The return stroke is extremely fast compared to everyone but Fox, and while it'd be easy to make a joke about the Command Post being the least expensive way to get a vasectomy, I've never had any issues with it in that regard. The post goes up quick and puts the seat back where you need it in the blink of an eye, which is exactly what it should do. It also makes a noticeable topping out 'clunk' that lets you know the job is done. No guessing here.
Lowering the IRCC is a cinch, and it was never difficult to get those last five or ten millimeters of travel just by staying seated, even at its maximum air pressure of just 20 PSI. The Cruiser Control system is neat, and I appreciate the ability to micro tune the seat's height in a 45mm window, but I'm not sold on the CC function only being accessible once you've lowered the post by at least 25mm. Maybe I'm a weirdo, but I find myself most often looking for the seat to be just a handful of millimeters lower when I'm faced with a technical or steep climb that I might need to dab on or could benefit from a bit of extra confidence. But to access the IRCC's 45mm micro-adjust window, you need to lower the post by at least 25mm. The final 50mm of travel to bottom-out is non-indexed. When I'm descending, I usually want it slammed for maximum fun levels, or dropped by 35mm or so for rolling terrain.
Ideally, I'd like to see the 45mm of Cruiser Control micro-adjust right at the top of the post's stroke for fine tuning, with a more noticeable indexed middle position right under that, ala the original Command Post.
The latest Command Post receives a perfect grade when it comes to reliability: no hiccups and no serious issues. The post's mechanical internals and quick return speed weren't affected by chilly riding temps, either, which gives it the leg up over most hydraulically controlled dropper posts. And as for side-to-side wiggle, there are maybe two or three millimeters of play at the seat's nose, which is basically nothing.
IssuesAs mentioned above, I found myself wishing that Specialized had put the Cruiser Control function at the top of the post's stroke, but I might be in the minority on that one. My only other real gripe is that I wish a 150mm travel option were available. The 125mm model I've been using will be more than enough for a lot of riders, but having spent most of the year on a 150mm dropper, I found myself noticing how the seat was 25mm closer to my underside than I'd prefer.
Pinkbike’s Take: | Reliability is still the big issue for dropper seat posts, and if a dropper can prove its worth on that front, it's a winner in my books. The Command Post IRCC does exactly that while costing less than most of its competition. And while I'd like to see more travel and a change up to the micro-adjust positions, it is definitely worth putting on your shortlist if you're looking for a new dropper. - Mike Levy |
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Genital bashing harassment?
I stopped in to the local Specialized shop a few weeks back to look at Stumpys and Cambers. Dropped the post once and popped it back up. I don't think I would be exaggerating terribly much in calling the return stoke "violent".
Ps, I know each brand has those types of people but it seams that there are a little bit more than average on the specialized bandwagon.
Samsung=More Sales=More money for research and development.
Do you understand the concept?
If you're completely concerned with my riding abilities look at my youtube videos from when I first started...
I own a successful business that allows me time and money to dedicate to my passions. Thank you for your concern
More funding for R&D = More engineers
Please agree with me on this one...
let me down period. Out of all the remote posts ie; rock shock, lev that come through the shop for service the Command post seems to be the most reliably and durable. Single bolt seat clamp has never given me a problem with it not being tight enough. Just my .02
www.vitalmtb.com/product/feature/Trek-Invents-Automatic-Dropper-Seatpost-No-More-Sitting-Down-Required,335
I'm sure this is something you could get used to, but it was really disorienting for me and it was enough for me to miss a few adjustments I tried to make.
I also agree and noticed the micro adjustment window being misplaced.
Slow return in cold.... The older models were more problematic in this regard. To fix, first, just run a few more psi. Then, if still needed, I remove the valve core and inject a few cc's of heavy oil, followed by a few squirts of WD40. Cycle the post while upside down a few times and you are good to go for a few rides. Flip and cycle the "oil bath" should it get sticky again,
Great posts.
The three positions are better however.
service.specialized.com/asc/Content/Tech%20Pubs/Technical%20Bulletins/TB0208A_revA.pdf
It is also a great idea just service your post. You will need a strap wrench on the newer models to get to the internals. Its super easy to do. Just use some Slick Honey and a good amount of Fork Oil. Mine is super fast and i just leave the winter tune in year round. Rocket slick.
Also. Unless they've improved the new version the reliability is iffy at best. Every time I'd put air into the post (it leaked a lot) the schrader valve would come with the shock pump when I unscrewed it thus loosing all the air.
Because the whole post is the air chamber, this makes for a very large air volume for a post, combined with a relatively low pressure, and a few PSI lost can cause the post to not raise. Making it seem like maintenance is frequent. 2-3 pumps of air, and it's back up and running. Compare this to a Reverb, where you either have to remove the post (sometimes not easy if the hose is trimmed short) or remove the seat, and have to inflate to 250psi!
My post, the IRc, has yet to slip. The new "alien head" post is different to the old. I also seat bounce and land seated occasionally, something that would surely cause the old style head to slip.
Since the bike was fairly new, my LBS sent the Reverb back for a replacement.
In the interim I bought a KS Lev, and since then(2012) have never looked back. All the rags seem to rip on the Lev, but since I've had nothing but TOTAL reliability from it, I'll keep buying them thank you very much.
As far as Specialized is concerned, their POS seat clamp has ejected me off the end of my bike enough times(I ran the stock Command post for a month or so on the several Enduros I've purchased) so that they could sell a 2 gram, platinum Command post and I wouldn't give it the time of day.
@hamncheez - SID gained 50g when moving from 28.6 to 32mm. And that fork is the most sensitive weight-subject in the bicycle suspension world. Make it too heavy and angry mob will get you. Chill out
But, there are good reasons to keep dropper posts small as well. The lower part has to be thick enough to resist "hoop compression" so it won't distort or shrink and bind the stanchion when clamped in the frame. There has to be enough thickness to provide for keyways and threads, and to be able to hold bushings at their intended tolerances - all those areas add weight, and none can be made thinner, just because the post has been scaled into a larger diameter. More metal/more weight.
In addition, smaller tubes have less swept area for seals and bushings, so the designer can call out much tighter tolerances to minimize saddle wiggle, knowing that the extra friction that may be created will be easy for the spring and rider to overcome. The sliding parts of a larger diameter post would require more precision to manufacture and, presumably, more maintenance by the user. It can be done, and probably will, but my prediction is that the larger format droppers will weigh and cost more than what we have now, and produce similar reliability - they would, however, allow for greater extension.
www.9point8.ca/index.php/products/sesatposts/product/69-fall-line-dropper-post
As said earlier, just service ther "lowers" once in a while, and they will perform great.
If seatpost got sag, you can even fully rebuild it with no much effort. It's really simple inside.. unlike Reverb.
There's guide, how to fully service KS seatposts: forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/ks-lev-diy-cartridge-rebuild-899659.html
Its old
Never broke
Head wiggles and I don't care because that does no harm
Adjustable from 9" down
Mines set at 7"
i dont use dropper post and still having fun...
Thereby anyone who buys specialized is partially guilty aswell for "funding terrorism"
A: It left all the specialized fans butt hurt. (no pun intended)
I ride a lot of different bikes that have a lot of different dropper posts on them, and while I'll admit that the 25mm difference between some doesn't keep my from doing anything, I feel more comfortable with 150mm of drop. I know I'm not the only one.