Anvl, an offshoot of Transition, has a number of components in their catalog, but the Tilt is the brand's first foray into platform pedals. The pedal's shape takes a slight twist on a pretty common design and is available in a few variations, including the base model with chromoly axles, which comes it at $129.99 USD, and a composite variation costing $69.99. The composite pedal is the lightest of the bunch, weighing a claimed 300 grams, while the titanium axle version tested here weighs 366 grams - a reasonable number when it comes to platform pedals. The Tilt pedal spins on three cartridge bearings and a DU bushing on the inboard side of the platform, and employ ten pins per side; each mounted from the top of the pedal rather than up through the base.
Tilt Ti Pedal Details:• Extruded 6061 aluminum, CNC-machined
• Titanium axle
• Platform size: 100mm x 94mm
• 14mm thick at pedal center
• 3 cartridge bearings, 1 DU bushing
• 10 pins per side
• 366 grams (pair)
• Colors: black, red and blue
• MSRP: $259.99 USD
•
www.anvlcomponents.com With pedals being a key contact point to your ride, it should come as no surprise that there is a good chunk of personal preference surrounding how they feel. Over the years, I’ve come to prefer a pedal with a nice concave front to back, and have also enjoyed pedals that feature some side concave - more common in older BMX pedals, but DMR fosters this also, as does the Specialized Boomslang.
Pin placement seems to be much the same on a lot of pedals but, two to three pins across the rear and three to four across the front, with at least two on the outermost edge of the pedal seems to be sufficient. In my experience, the flatter the pedal, the longer the pins will need to be, and the more are required, but this is also subject to personal taste.
The Tilt features a faux concave, front to rear. It’s faux because while it looks like the pedal profile has a concave, the material across the axle actually sits higher than the front and rear. This creates more of a reliance on the pins which, while essential in any platform pedal, can be greatly assisted by the use of a proper concave profile. To cover this off, Anvl has set the front and rear pins a couple of millimeters higher than the center pins, which should create a “concave” to the pedal and an in-the-pedal feel for the foot, although there is still significant contact between the shoe and the raised section above the axle.
PerformanceOut of the box, the pedals felt quite natural underfoot, though I still wanted to remove the center pin on the back row, as well as the two by the crank. This adjusted configuration didn't drastically change the grip of the pedal - grip was no better or worse - but did greatly improve feel, giving a more in-the-pedal feel than the stock pin placement. The two inboard-side pins propped my foot up a little more than preferred, creating the more on-the-pedal feel. It took me a couple of rides to totally get used to the initial pin setup and while comfortable overall, the adjusted configuration felt more planted to me.
The pins remained solid throughout the course of the summer, taking hits and shrugging them off with ease. In fact, I couldn’t customize their placement with the Allen key and had to resort to a pair of vice grips in order to remove pins - good if you’re happy with the stock placement and setup, but not so good when attempting to mix it up with some longer pins or their placement around the pedal. I didn’t try to remove any until I had ridden the pedal for a while, in order to get a feel of the stock setup, which may have resulted in the pins getting a little jammy, but it’s something worth noting.
The Tilt pedals were tested with a range of shoes, including the Giro Jacket (Vibram rubber sole), FiveTen Freerider Contact (Mi5 rubber sole) and the Adidas Terrex (S1 Stealth rubber sole) and I found that all provided adequate traction. The Terrex was a hair worse than the other two, mostly due to the shape of the sole that shoe contains, which includes more lift through the toebox, similar to clip-type shoes like the Teva Links or Specialized 2FO. The Mi5 sole of the Freerider Contact provided the best grip of the shoes tested.
Despite the Tilt pedals not featuring a true concave, they gripped the shoe really well in most riding situations, and I never had any issues while climbing or descending on a regular ride. When the going got a little more ragged, though, I found my foot moving out of position more so than with other pedals and was the same regardless of pin configuration. This was noticeable when going a good clip in chunky terrain, and while it wasn’t enough to cause any major concerns - the ones that can result in a pile of flesh and metal in the dirt - it's preferred that the foot remains glued to the pedal during these already more stressful moments.
Personal preferences aside, something that could have improved the pedal in more ragged situations would be a larger platform. At a measured 100mm x 94mm, the pedals are on the average to smaller size on the market today. The plus side to their current size is that pedal strikes become less of an issue, but I’d take a little more surface area any day. The pedals do feature chamfered edges for when they come into contact with obstacles, and they made out well when taking a hit.
IssuesAfter only a couple weeks on the Tilt pedals, they developed some play, especially noticeable when twisting the foot side to side. This wasn’t something noticed early on when out on the trail, but its a concern nonetheless. In the end, it was determined that the play was thanks to the use of the DU bushing on the inboard portion of the axle, with the bushing breaking in and resulting in the slop (something that happens with all pedals that feature this design). It never became an issue nor got any worse. Once the bushings wear beyond the initial break in, Anvl has you covered, with replacement bushings for $2 USD each. Should you want to update the axles, there is a kit available which includes the bushings, bearings, and steel axle for $39.99 USD - there is currently no option to replace the titanium axle.
Pinkbike’s Take: | While the Tilt pedals aren't the largest or grippiest available today, they do a bang-up job with what they have. Their ten hollow pins on each side of the pedal aid greatly with this. If foot placement and stability are a problem, or riding rowdy, rough trails is your jam, it may be better to look elsewhere. If you have smaller feet, ride less on edge, or prefer smoother trails, and cost isn't a concern, the titanium axle Tilt is a decent pedal to consider. They're light, reliable, feel comfortable underfoot, and keep your feet in place during most riding scenarios. - AJ Barlas |
This company has had issues with these pedals.
www.gamutusa.com/podium-pedals
rebrand of those pedals
Been seriously considering starting a pedal company, plenty of machine shops around here hurting for work, how hard can it be?
Go to your local machineshop and ask for them to make 50 pairs of pedals for you and 100 odd axles so you csn get started, you may not like the price though!
Pedal bodies are a 4 op machining part on a 3 axis machine, two op with a 4th axis and correct fixturing or one op if you have a live centre 4th axis, extruded material and a robot or very clever fixturing / a 24/7 machine minder to load parts.
Of course making a small batch you wont want to spend thousands on custom fixturing and programming so it will be that 4 op part for the bodies, then we have axles, does your machineshop have very accurate twin spindle lathes or will they need to be centreless ground after turning and treatment?
I may not like Superstars people but can praise some of their manufacturing they seem to have a very efficient setup, simple pedal design, extruded material, axles from china, internals copied from HT's nano and a fully robotised machine for body manufacture, they may not be fancy but they are cheap, but they do sell direct too to keep distribution costs out.
Rant over. Not everything is as simple as it looks.
As for this pedal, it doesnt do anything for me, my current favourite is the same as VitalMTB found, the DMR Vault or the Nukeproof, not tried the TMAC but I would like to - All pedals that are rather simple in design but excel because of their shape and sensible construction.
I dont think that this Anvl pedal is particularly delicately machined though, they are no Twenty6 predator or Hope....
Also pedals are not necessarily expensive. Great examples are Wellgo V8 (€19), Dartmoor Stream (€21), NS Aerial (€29) and O1 Static (€30). And these are the full Recommended Retail Prices.
It still boils down to business cost though, Deity for example purchase a pedal from HT after submitting their own design (which takes time), once they have it they have to decide how to price things, do you sell direct and cheap or distribute? As they distribute worldwide they have to have enough margin for themselves, the distributor and the shop, easy for a $25.00 part to become a $140.00 part when you have 3 lots of businesses to pay.
Thats why I mentioned Superstar, I think they may be the only company selling direct to consumer from the machineshop with pedals in a mass-production manner and at a low cost.
That said, for someone new to the market and unsure how many will be sold (or pretty sure not much will be sold) I'd say go with metal extrusion and design cleverly. If you're not in a rush, get a 5000EUR KUKA robot and let that one do the machining. Not quick, but very flexible and gets the job done. You could clamp the product stationary and let the robot do the routing, but you could also clamp the product in the robot and let it move past a stationary router.
Take a look at this for efficient pedal production - www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LsIE5nB_BU and www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKKmq3baVdA Its the same kind of thing Superstar uses, cant really think of a better way.
Spindles, sounds easy but can you guarantee tolerance from one bearing surface to another? you may need an accurate sub-spindle lathe for that - That's why most of the axles you see are turned and then centreless ground after surface treatment.
Plus loading and unloading single pedal bodies (that live centre 4th is of no benefit without a robot to load the part) and axles is time consuming, not a mass production situation.
Its easy to make a small batch of parts for friends etc, much more difficult to make a business from a product.
I had a quick look online at the KUKA robots and found one operating a milling head to clean up a casting or weld - As you say they wont challenge CNC machines for accuracy or speed but in certain situations I imagine they allow a completely new form of manufacturing in some cases, and a much reduced cost.
The manufacturing industry is flying along at the moment in terms of developing products that are not just affordable for defence contractors, That small manufacturers are moving into robotics is testament to that.
For pedal body manufacturing I doubt accuracy of such a robot would be insufficient. The cool thing about these robots nowadays is that they can easily recalibrate themselves. So they can just pick up a part, move it past a calibration surface and they know where it is exactly. If you look at these Anvil pedals closely, you'll see there is a slight mismatch between the machining of the upper and lower parts. Same goes for some Wellgo (or rebranded Wellgo) pedals I've got here. It could be an offset of serveral tenths of a millimeter. It doesn't matter from a functional point of view and as no one mentioned it here in the comment section, no one seems to be bothered even for a 260USD pedal. I think a 5000 robot arm could easily machine that, moving it past a stationary router. Sure it could would take several minutes to complete, but it would still be much quicker than you'd sell these anyway. And if they'd rethink the design a little for proper manufacturing, it could be done even quicker. The nice thing is that you could use any old router as typically it is the table that develops play and you're not using that here.
It amazes me what robots can do these days. We got one of these vacuum cleaning robots recently so that it doesn't matter much anymore that we enter home covered in sand and mud. Pretty incredible.
As for spindles, yeah with good tools I could definitely guarantee those tolerances. Concentricity between the bearing surfaces and the threads isn't super important so you can get everything critical in one setup. We machine drive shafts for dive scooters in a janky old SL-30 and they turn out great.
If you included my design time, which wouldn't be negligible for a small run of parts, the pedals would be really expensive. Taking that out of the picture, competing in the boutique pedal market would be easy if I didn't think it was oversaturated.
You need to sell the product so you need to register as a business, following that get a name and a logo, website, ecommerce, accountancy, liability insurance, just to get started.
You then design the product and have to test it and work out any issues, where are you getting bearings / bushings from, seals and pins custom or off the shelf? Who is going to anodise the bodies / treat the axles / etch your logo? Are you going to invest in a custom extrusion to save machining time / optimise shape or just go from solid? How are you going to package the pedals?
You finally get there and make a batch of pedals, how are you going to sell them? Advertisment? Where are you assembling / storing them?
All the while you hope to get to this stage with a product the consumer likes so you have not wasted a huge amount of time and money.
Lots to think about, and to fit into the 'boutique' market the pedal needs to be unique to or better than the competition, so back to stage one if that design isn't bang on point.
They say to make a small fortune in the cycling industry first you have to start with a large one.....
Point 1 Racing was selling their beautiful american made podium pedals (now rebranded as Gamut) for 150-160USD. They could've slapped some taiwanese titanium axles ($50) in them and the price still would not have gotten close to these Taipei specials.
Still it is pretty nuts what happened in the past years. I got the lowest spec Cannondale Prophet back in 2007 as I replaced most parts with stuff I already had (forks, brakes, wheels etc) but full retail was about 1700euro back then. And it said Made in USA. The lowest spec Orange Four or Five is 3500euro now. Much higher spec and a much more sophisticated frame construction than what I got back then but still, 1800 euros difference, well over double the price. I think automation isn't what would cost jobs, it is lack of customers that will. If automation is going to help lower the prices then that's only going to help these workers.
Pedals are like many of the most wonderful things in life - shape and feel is far more important than measurements.
www.niagaracycle.com/categories/black-ops-nylo-pro-pedals-9-16-black?gclid=CjwKEAiA9s_BBRCL3ZKWsfblgS8SJACbST7DquPE866k6sk4gLauHkaTrlhwl9ASZ1u4V43S63ScBRoCjIfw_wcB
www.amazon.com/PEDALS-BK-OPS-NYLO-PRO-16-BLK/dp/B006EPPXAW
This is actually what was said about this completely non-convave pedal:
" A truly concave shape should help make these even grippier and more comfortable than their predecessor"
Take a look at it:
www.pinkbike.com/photo/13966597
Yet this review bashes the Anvl pedal and it has nowhere near the same intrusive bulge at the axle.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A2XRVM4/ref=s9_topr_hd_bw_bEHlb_g468_i7?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&pf_rd_r=Z2NTM0K4F9D6QHR25GDC&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=cca139e0-1a61-5d5d-ab66-fa2e13f9cab0&pf_rd_i=3404891
As for the pedals: $250 not my price category...
I run them....but only because I got them new for £25 off eBay.
Or three pairs of the same pedals in plastic for 180$
And the plastic pedals weigh a svelt 300 grams.
The Ti pedals are interesting but I would rather hear a long term test about the plastic pedals.
That being said, why not just get a pair of these for $25:
www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1H9A1O?psc=1
weigh about 390g for the pair. If they break, just get a new pair. The cost is so low anyone can afford them...
No Ti nuttiness and the weight is true... www.gamutusa.com/podium-pedals
How 'boot a ti/composite version w/proper pins. Shit be dope light long time yeah. ????
once you go vaults you ..always go vaults?
idk.