Anvl Tilt Ti Pedal - Review

Nov 7, 2016 at 13:23
by AJ Barlas  
ANVL Tilt Ti Axle Pedal


Anvl, an offshoot of Transition, has a number of components in their catalog, but the Tilt is the brand's first foray into platform pedals. The pedal's shape takes a slight twist on a pretty common design and is available in a few variations, including the base model with chromoly axles, which comes it at $129.99 USD, and a composite variation costing $69.99. The composite pedal is the lightest of the bunch, weighing a claimed 300 grams, while the titanium axle version tested here weighs 366 grams - a reasonable number when it comes to platform pedals. The Tilt pedal spins on three cartridge bearings and a DU bushing on the inboard side of the platform, and employ ten pins per side; each mounted from the top of the pedal rather than up through the base.

Tilt Ti Pedal Details:

• Extruded 6061 aluminum, CNC-machined
• Titanium axle
• Platform size: 100mm x 94mm
• 14mm thick at pedal center
• 3 cartridge bearings, 1 DU bushing
• 10 pins per side
• 366 grams (pair)
• Colors: black, red and blue
• MSRP: $259.99 USD
www.anvlcomponents.com


ANVL Tilt platform concave
The Anvl Tilt is 14mm thick in the center of the platform.
ANVL Tilt platform concave
A look at the slightly higher surface over the axle.


With pedals being a key contact point to your ride, it should come as no surprise that there is a good chunk of personal preference surrounding how they feel. Over the years, I’ve come to prefer a pedal with a nice concave front to back, and have also enjoyed pedals that feature some side concave - more common in older BMX pedals, but DMR fosters this also, as does the Specialized Boomslang.

Pin placement seems to be much the same on a lot of pedals but, two to three pins across the rear and three to four across the front, with at least two on the outermost edge of the pedal seems to be sufficient. In my experience, the flatter the pedal, the longer the pins will need to be, and the more are required, but this is also subject to personal taste.

ANVL Tilt platform chamfer
The Anvl Tilt sports ten hollow pins per side.


The Tilt features a faux concave, front to rear. It’s faux because while it looks like the pedal profile has a concave, the material across the axle actually sits higher than the front and rear. This creates more of a reliance on the pins which, while essential in any platform pedal, can be greatly assisted by the use of a proper concave profile. To cover this off, Anvl has set the front and rear pins a couple of millimeters higher than the center pins, which should create a “concave” to the pedal and an in-the-pedal feel for the foot, although there is still significant contact between the shoe and the raised section above the axle.


Performance

Out of the box, the pedals felt quite natural underfoot, though I still wanted to remove the center pin on the back row, as well as the two by the crank. This adjusted configuration didn't drastically change the grip of the pedal - grip was no better or worse - but did greatly improve feel, giving a more in-the-pedal feel than the stock pin placement. The two inboard-side pins propped my foot up a little more than preferred, creating the more on-the-pedal feel. It took me a couple of rides to totally get used to the initial pin setup and while comfortable overall, the adjusted configuration felt more planted to me.

The pins remained solid throughout the course of the summer, taking hits and shrugging them off with ease. In fact, I couldn’t customize their placement with the Allen key and had to resort to a pair of vice grips in order to remove pins - good if you’re happy with the stock placement and setup, but not so good when attempting to mix it up with some longer pins or their placement around the pedal. I didn’t try to remove any until I had ridden the pedal for a while, in order to get a feel of the stock setup, which may have resulted in the pins getting a little jammy, but it’s something worth noting.

The Tilt pedals were tested with a range of shoes, including the Giro Jacket (Vibram rubber sole), FiveTen Freerider Contact (Mi5 rubber sole) and the Adidas Terrex (S1 Stealth rubber sole) and I found that all provided adequate traction. The Terrex was a hair worse than the other two, mostly due to the shape of the sole that shoe contains, which includes more lift through the toebox, similar to clip-type shoes like the Teva Links or Specialized 2FO. The Mi5 sole of the Freerider Contact provided the best grip of the shoes tested.

ANVL Tilt ti axle pedal


Despite the Tilt pedals not featuring a true concave, they gripped the shoe really well in most riding situations, and I never had any issues while climbing or descending on a regular ride. When the going got a little more ragged, though, I found my foot moving out of position more so than with other pedals and was the same regardless of pin configuration. This was noticeable when going a good clip in chunky terrain, and while it wasn’t enough to cause any major concerns - the ones that can result in a pile of flesh and metal in the dirt - it's preferred that the foot remains glued to the pedal during these already more stressful moments.

Personal preferences aside, something that could have improved the pedal in more ragged situations would be a larger platform. At a measured 100mm x 94mm, the pedals are on the average to smaller size on the market today. The plus side to their current size is that pedal strikes become less of an issue, but I’d take a little more surface area any day. The pedals do feature chamfered edges for when they come into contact with obstacles, and they made out well when taking a hit.


Issues

After only a couple weeks on the Tilt pedals, they developed some play, especially noticeable when twisting the foot side to side. This wasn’t something noticed early on when out on the trail, but its a concern nonetheless. In the end, it was determined that the play was thanks to the use of the DU bushing on the inboard portion of the axle, with the bushing breaking in and resulting in the slop (something that happens with all pedals that feature this design). It never became an issue nor got any worse. Once the bushings wear beyond the initial break in, Anvl has you covered, with replacement bushings for $2 USD each. Should you want to update the axles, there is a kit available which includes the bushings, bearings, and steel axle for $39.99 USD - there is currently no option to replace the titanium axle.


Pinkbike’s Take:
bigquotesWhile the Tilt pedals aren't the largest or grippiest available today, they do a bang-up job with what they have. Their ten hollow pins on each side of the pedal aid greatly with this. If foot placement and stability are a problem, or riding rowdy, rough trails is your jam, it may be better to look elsewhere. If you have smaller feet, ride less on edge, or prefer smoother trails, and cost isn't a concern, the titanium axle Tilt is a decent pedal to consider. They're light, reliable, feel comfortable underfoot, and keep your feet in place during most riding scenarios. - AJ Barlas


Author Info:
AJBarlas avatar

Member since May 8, 2011
74 articles

144 Comments
  • 86 0
 $130 for CrMo pedals with the old-school internal-allen pins and sounds insane to me. How come pedals are so suddenly expensive?
  • 25 18
 Ya dude I agree! Bought a $6500 bike this year, and it didn't even come with pedals! Coughed up the big bucks and bought a pair of atlas. They broke after 4 months(race face did replace under warranty so cool and good on em). In my opinion d/u bushings have no place in dh pedals. They should all run on bearings.
  • 42 2
 @Morebike: Bikes don't come with pedals because they don't know if people are going to ride clips or flats, so they leave it up to the buyer. For pedals, I've ran Burgtec and Deity T-Mac's and they have both been great, they cost some $$$ but they aren't as expensive as these and offer better traction and can take a lot of abuse.
  • 14 3
 CRAMPON MAGS!!!
  • 2 0
 I run Saint's and Bladerunners, I really like both, even at different price ranges. It would be sooooo nice to have pedal pin kits for both, I think the saint's need to be longer and the blade runners shorter, but there is no options, even at the high cost of entry.
  • 5 0
 @siderealwall2: I bought a handful of 12mm M4 bolts for my Saints last year, even still using the washers from the underneath they give a couple of extra mm across the platform- absolutely savage grip. And the pins are slightly thicker too. Well worth a try for only a couple of dollars. there's pics in my profile if you want to see what I'm on about.
  • 10 0
 The allen pin fitting used here is such an own goal imo. How any company releases a pedal without the fundamental ability to remove a bent pin easily these days is amazing. This isn't 1996.
  • 40 1
 Why anyone would buy these is beyond me. There are so many pedal options to choose from with better tech and better aesthetics, for less money. House brand for boutique prices. Give me a break.
  • 6 3
 That's what happens when u piss off CHINA ! Lol
  • 6 0
 If people didn't buy $260 pedals they would not make them. But given you can get Saints/Nukeproof/Superstar Nano X/FireEye/ or these I came across recently https://www.steeleindustries.co.uk/collections/components/products/po30-platform-pedal and all, for only ~$200 less!
  • 9 0
 I had been a 60 bucks tops for pedals guy...I was feeling terrible for spending 130 bucks on a pair of Vaults, .. Now I feel fine.
  • 3 0
 @Morebike: I'm with you on that one for sure. As soon as i see DU bushing i am out. So many other great options without them. My Atlas pedals also had problems within the first few weeks. Require frequent greasing. Great feeling pedal though.
  • 5 0
 @Lagr1980: hard to feel terrible buying Vaults when they grip so well.
  • 2 0
 I had to do a double take when I read these come with bushings.
  • 3 6
 @zzRider: I would not buy these. this is a rebrand of gamutusa: www.gamutusa.com/podium-pedals
This company has had issues with these pedals.
  • 4 1
 For real. Just get a pair of saints and call it a day. Lunch one and you're only down $25.
  • 3 0
 @barbaricht: nothing like mate, wrong number of pins for a start.
  • 1 9
flag Morebike (Nov 23, 2016 at 9:09) (Below Threshold)
 @KCToregon: you missing the point I dropped over 6k, it's an attitude like that which will confirm to the bike industry that this is ok to do, what's next no seat because that's such an individual preference too? The cherry on top was I shelled out for expensive dh pedals that fell apart. D/u bushings in pedals are forced on us like press fit BB. Give your head a shake, It shouldn't be like this.
  • 2 1
 @Morebike: Call up knolly and let them know how you feel! Let them know that them being part of the industry should spec the pedals you want! And the ones I want! And that other dude. But we all want different stuff, so where's the added value if I'm paying whatever the price difference they'll tack on if I'm just going to run spds.
  • 4 1
 @KCToregon: DMR is better than Deity or Burgtec
  • 3 0
 @Morebike: Bearings and threaded bottom brackets for president!!!
  • 14 0
 @Morebike: I'm curious as to how you feel ripped off because a bike that you chose to purchase didn't include pedals? Did you not read the spec sheet before you bought it? Did someone force you to spend over $6k on a bicycle without pedals. It is 100% your decision / fault / problem that you spent that much on a bicycle, same as if you purchase a bicycle with a press-fit BB, or pedals with D/U bushings. You spoke with your wallet and told the companies that this was acceptable. You're not a victim in this scenario
  • 2 1
 @KCToregon: I know that's always the stated case but it's kind of BS. You could say the exact same thing about grips and the saddle, yet my bikes always come with them (note to bike companies: and they should keep including a seat!)
  • 2 1
 @nickkk: I'm confused, the only alternative to the grub screws used here that I'm aware of are pins that thread through from the other side. Bend one of those and there's no way that's coming out unless you cut it. With a grub screw all you need to do is clamp something on it (mole grips or something) and it should come out no matter how bent it is.
  • 3 1
 @el-nombre: it's not about bending the "grub screw", it's about when you level it flat from scraping it and there is nothing to grip to get it out, and now you're down a space to thread a pin in.
  • 2 1
 @nickkk: So true, I would ever buy a pair of pedals again with top fitting allen key pedal pins. How do you get them out after a few pedal strikes? So stupid
  • 2 0
 @yerbikesux: lol me to! I also get wheels and tires. Why stop there, I'm just going to drop off my Kona stinky and pick up a nice light 650b carbon bike
  • 2 3
 @Andrewlunka: grow a pair and buy some vice grips. It's not even hard.
  • 2 1
 @AZRyder: he specifically referred to bending pins. I've never seen anyone level off a pin so much that it's flat anyway. The chances of bending one seem a lot higher than that. The only time I've seen pins getting anywhere near to levelled off is when they haven't been removable in the first place and they've just gradually worn down. As far as hitting a pin hard enough to level it off in one hit (and I do get pedal strikes quite regularly), the only time I've got close to that, it broke the pedal body with it so the type of pin was kind of irrelevant. Maybe I don't ride in rocy enough areas regularly enough to have these issues but as far as I can see, the pros of grub screws outweigh those of the normal Allen bolts
  • 1 0
 @el-nombre: I'm just speaking from experience. I went with saints over my last pair of deity's. One of the major factors in that decision was the fact that I could remove leveled pins much easier on the Shimanos. I've already replaced one. I ride entirely rocky terrain. It's a quite common event.
  • 4 0
 O bought Xpedo Spry, 260g, 11mm thin, $65. 3 yr old pair has some small play. Not sure about strength, I don't get much air.
  • 1 0
 @deadtime: great pedals, unfortunately I've broken two pairs on smallish jumps.
  • 1 0
 @zzRider: do you know po30 mesurement. Emailed steele ind. but get no answer
  • 1 0
 @LuisCR: I don't. But you could try messaging him on ebay for an answer, I have just messaged him. Using Paint Shop, compared to RaceFace Atlas they appear to be a little bit smaller, I estimate they're 95x105mm. I'll let you know when/if he responds to my message.
  • 1 0
 @zzRider: thanks bro. Gamut podium are 100x100
  • 1 0
 @Matt115lamb: Most of the bike parts are made in Taiwan actually, and Taiwan has pissed China off, big time.
  • 1 0
 @jaame: actually.....Taiwan is a province of china ! It's was only a joke buddy ! But if you thought they're expensive now , get ready for higher prices on EVERYTHING !
  • 2 0
 @Matt115lamb: Tell that to Taiwan.
  • 1 0
 @LuisCR: got a reply: "110x107x14mm".
  • 1 0
 @zzRider: Hey! Thanks again. Pretty close to the CB Stamp large (114x111) that I'm interested and with similar shape. Probabily I'll give them a try
  • 1 1
 @stumpymidget: Taiwan..... your a province of China !
  • 61 0
 came in to a saturated pedal market with a just ok product... ballsy move
  • 37 0
 So a ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY DOLLAR pedal develops play in the DU bushing after a 'couple of weeks'. But thats 'OK'. Anvl has you 'covered' with replacement bushings for '$2 each' every 'couple of weeks'. THANKS ANVIL.
  • 26 0
 Pay an extra $200 to save 50 grams. How about fill your water bottle 95% full instead? It's free. You might think so but no one anywhere is going to care that you have a titanium spindle.
  • 3 1
 I've seen too many ti spindles snap under heavier riders. Always ends in stitches.
  • 1 1
 @KuroHada: yeah it's hilarious watching a fat bastard crash !
  • 18 0
 Can someone please explain to me what is it that makes pedals so expensive?....
  • 29 1
 No, nor can I explain why some are so heavy.

Been seriously considering starting a pedal company, plenty of machine shops around here hurting for work, how hard can it be?
  • 6 0
 @maxyedor: Do it! I agree with you that although there are a ton of options many of them are overpriced and not great products. Best of luck to you!
  • 21 2
 Pedals are expensive because mountain bikers base their purchase decisions on the same criteria as women buying shoes. @maxyedor like the idea, would definitely prefer made in the U.S. and priced based on cost of production. Kickstarter?
  • 14 7
 @dave-f: Gotta say, I've never bought a rotor and wondered if it'll help me sleep with my boss.
  • 25 0
 @nickkk: I can't say that i've looked at an attractive woman and said "i'd sleep with her if she had nicer shoes."
  • 27 4
 Economies of scale - there are too many small suppliers in the bike industry so sales volumes are low equalling high cost, plus there is a non direct supply chain.

Go to your local machineshop and ask for them to make 50 pairs of pedals for you and 100 odd axles so you csn get started, you may not like the price though!

Pedal bodies are a 4 op machining part on a 3 axis machine, two op with a 4th axis and correct fixturing or one op if you have a live centre 4th axis, extruded material and a robot or very clever fixturing / a 24/7 machine minder to load parts.

Of course making a small batch you wont want to spend thousands on custom fixturing and programming so it will be that 4 op part for the bodies, then we have axles, does your machineshop have very accurate twin spindle lathes or will they need to be centreless ground after turning and treatment?

I may not like Superstars people but can praise some of their manufacturing they seem to have a very efficient setup, simple pedal design, extruded material, axles from china, internals copied from HT's nano and a fully robotised machine for body manufacture, they may not be fancy but they are cheap, but they do sell direct too to keep distribution costs out.

Rant over. Not everything is as simple as it looks.
  • 7 0
 @dave-f: Twenty6 is 100% US based! tup
  • 18 1
 @nfstreet4life: life is hard in Aberdeen, Scotland. If they've got shoes its a bonus.
  • 2 0
 @Racer951: When I read the title I thought this was a forged pedal and both price and shape seemed suitable. But the specs here state it is extruded and from that point of view they made it incredibly hard for themselves. It requires quite some delicate machining to turn an extruded shape into this and I doubt it adds that much to the function (grip, ground clearance) compared to say the Easton Cully or a generic Wellgo or VP extruded pedal. I think these Anvil pedals aren't strictly about function, but about looks as well. Which is fine as there sure will be some riders around concerned about the looks of their pedals. It is a different market.
  • 4 1
 @vinay: I was not really referring to the price being right for the Anvl pedal - More that people always think its a simple as dropping off a CAD file to local 'struggling machineshop' where they will manufature it into a batch of pedals for mere pennies all while ignoring the design aspect, manufacture to tolerance and correct function, part finshing, advertisment, packaging, distribution, warranty support etc etc.

As for this pedal, it doesnt do anything for me, my current favourite is the same as VitalMTB found, the DMR Vault or the Nukeproof, not tried the TMAC but I would like to - All pedals that are rather simple in design but excel because of their shape and sensible construction.

I dont think that this Anvl pedal is particularly delicately machined though, they are no Twenty6 predator or Hope....
  • 3 1
 @Racer951: I like your way of thinking, but in reality 80% of the pedals are probably made by the same factory in Taiwan, only they have a different logo and paint job printed on them.

Also pedals are not necessarily expensive. Great examples are Wellgo V8 (€19), Dartmoor Stream (€21), NS Aerial (€29) and O1 Static (€30). And these are the full Recommended Retail Prices.
  • 3 3
 @Mattin: Agreed, most are made by HT components - you can see many 'top end' pedals are slightly re-designed bodies from the HT catalogue, all sharing the same internals etc but with a different body design.

It still boils down to business cost though, Deity for example purchase a pedal from HT after submitting their own design (which takes time), once they have it they have to decide how to price things, do you sell direct and cheap or distribute? As they distribute worldwide they have to have enough margin for themselves, the distributor and the shop, easy for a $25.00 part to become a $140.00 part when you have 3 lots of businesses to pay.

Thats why I mentioned Superstar, I think they may be the only company selling direct to consumer from the machineshop with pedals in a mass-production manner and at a low cost.
  • 2 1
 @Racer951: Looking more closely, yes I agree that the machining is not particularly accurately done there. I initially thought they had to machine some complex curves as well, but that was all already in the extruded shape. That said, if you compare it to a typical Wellgo pedal, they have to machine all the way through the solid material. Wellgo designs their pedals so that they only machine up to the hollow section so they only have to machine about 3mm. I think that is clever engineering, to get the most out of the chosen production process. In that respect I like the engineering of Ikea products as well, though many will disagree with me on that one. The other pedals here mentioned are cast. Also great but probably more expensive than metal extrusion, depending on the scale of course. Shimano is one of the few with the capacity to forge their products. You can't really beat that.

That said, for someone new to the market and unsure how many will be sold (or pretty sure not much will be sold) I'd say go with metal extrusion and design cleverly. If you're not in a rush, get a 5000EUR KUKA robot and let that one do the machining. Not quick, but very flexible and gets the job done. You could clamp the product stationary and let the robot do the routing, but you could also clamp the product in the robot and let it move past a stationary router.
  • 3 1
 @vinay: What you are describing is a product designed for manufacture rather than a CAD designers dream with no respect paid for how its going to be made - As you say people like IKEA excel at that kind of thing.

Take a look at this for efficient pedal production - www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LsIE5nB_BU and www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKKmq3baVdA Its the same kind of thing Superstar uses, cant really think of a better way.
  • 3 0
 @Racer951: I was okay reading about what makes a good pedal until Racer started talking about machining metals........got me hot around the collar. Smile
  • 2 0
 @therealtylerdurden: Predators are the bomb! Ridiculous grip, spin perfect after tons of abuse. And they look sick.
  • 1 0
 @Racer951: I have the Superstar Nano, I love them because they are wide and grippy. Some of the reviews were pretty good (9/10), so I will stick to them for the moment.
  • 1 0
 @Racer951: Just watched the FANUC videos - that thing is nicely human in its sensitivity to personal space. I like that this kind of development opens up possibilities for joint work rather than simple replacement of people with machines.
  • 1 0
 @Racer951: So I've got a Fanuc robodrill with a live center 4th axis. Spindles seem like they would be easy to do in a lathe setup and then a vertical chuck with a collet clamped in it. Sure seems like I could churn out a batch of an engineers dream pedal for less than what they are charging haha.
  • 1 0
 @taquitos: If it was so easy everybody would do it - If you have a free robodrill with fixturing sitting there (your boss's machine or something you own for other work) then why not, if you have to make payments on it then its a different story altogether.

Spindles, sounds easy but can you guarantee tolerance from one bearing surface to another? you may need an accurate sub-spindle lathe for that - That's why most of the axles you see are turned and then centreless ground after surface treatment.

Plus loading and unloading single pedal bodies (that live centre 4th is of no benefit without a robot to load the part) and axles is time consuming, not a mass production situation.

Its easy to make a small batch of parts for friends etc, much more difficult to make a business from a product.
  • 1 0
 @Racer951: I believe modern robotic arms are hugely underestimated and underutilized. They can do so much more than take products in and out of the CNC machine. I did my graduation project at a company called Taniq, specialized in the design and production of fibre reinforced pressure vessels. They had a single KUKA robot back then, they now moved to a larger facility with more robots. The robot could move the cutting tool while the mandrel was spinning in the lathe. It could spin and move the mandrel while the fibres were guided by a static eye or it could guide the fibre while the mandrel was spinning in a separate fixture. Last year I attended a speech by Achim Menges (achimmenges.net) from the university of Stuttgart. You may like to look that up. Part of what's so cool is the automated design process, but the production processes by the robots (cutting and winding) is pretty cool as well. Of course this is never going to be as stable as a real lathe. But then again I doubt we really want to produce our own axles using a lathe. Not out of steel, not to mention titanium. I expect these mass produced ones are made using rolling, which is better in all respects. And just take it easy with the machining, don't cut huge chunks at once. It may not be as quick as a dedicated CNC workstation. But if this means you could do without such an expensive workstation altogether, it may be well worth the extra time it takes.
  • 1 0
 @vinay: I don't have a lot to do with robotics in my work but did see some of the collaborative robots on offer at a show lately which did blow my mind in terms of cost and ease of setup but they were more 'basic' than the robots you are talking about in their function.

I had a quick look online at the KUKA robots and found one operating a milling head to clean up a casting or weld - As you say they wont challenge CNC machines for accuracy or speed but in certain situations I imagine they allow a completely new form of manufacturing in some cases, and a much reduced cost.

The manufacturing industry is flying along at the moment in terms of developing products that are not just affordable for defence contractors, That small manufacturers are moving into robotics is testament to that.
  • 1 0
 @Racer951: To be honest I wasn't that deeply involved with the robotics part of the process. I went to operate the robot but mostly did the design and research bit of such a fibre reinforced bellow. I usually just went to the machine shop an did the turning of metal parts on a lathe. But it was cool that the robot could machine the more complex mandrels. There were some clever guys programming the robot interface so that I could just enter a design and the software did the rest.

For pedal body manufacturing I doubt accuracy of such a robot would be insufficient. The cool thing about these robots nowadays is that they can easily recalibrate themselves. So they can just pick up a part, move it past a calibration surface and they know where it is exactly. If you look at these Anvil pedals closely, you'll see there is a slight mismatch between the machining of the upper and lower parts. Same goes for some Wellgo (or rebranded Wellgo) pedals I've got here. It could be an offset of serveral tenths of a millimeter. It doesn't matter from a functional point of view and as no one mentioned it here in the comment section, no one seems to be bothered even for a 260USD pedal. I think a 5000 robot arm could easily machine that, moving it past a stationary router. Sure it could would take several minutes to complete, but it would still be much quicker than you'd sell these anyway. And if they'd rethink the design a little for proper manufacturing, it could be done even quicker. The nice thing is that you could use any old router as typically it is the table that develops play and you're not using that here.

It amazes me what robots can do these days. We got one of these vacuum cleaning robots recently so that it doesn't matter much anymore that we enter home covered in sand and mud. Pretty incredible.
  • 1 0
 @Racer951: there is an arm hanging off the side that can grab parts off a conveyor for lights out machining. The most expensive part about that machine though is the 24k spindle wears out quickly if you aren't just drilling and tapping.

As for spindles, yeah with good tools I could definitely guarantee those tolerances. Concentricity between the bearing surfaces and the threads isn't super important so you can get everything critical in one setup. We machine drive shafts for dive scooters in a janky old SL-30 and they turn out great.

If you included my design time, which wouldn't be negligible for a small run of parts, the pedals would be really expensive. Taking that out of the picture, competing in the boutique pedal market would be easy if I didn't think it was oversaturated.
  • 1 0
 @vinay: robo arms excel with really complex geometry, but are nowhere near mills in terms of repeatability or rigidity. They work great with AFP heads on the end tough. Maybe make a mini one for laying up carbon bike parts.
  • 1 0
 @taquitos: Sounds like you have more than enough machinery & the knowledge to do it but there are many more stages that add to the cost of a product which you touched on with design, but your time is still a cheap part of the process in the scheme of bringing a new product and business to market.

You need to sell the product so you need to register as a business, following that get a name and a logo, website, ecommerce, accountancy, liability insurance, just to get started.

You then design the product and have to test it and work out any issues, where are you getting bearings / bushings from, seals and pins custom or off the shelf? Who is going to anodise the bodies / treat the axles / etch your logo? Are you going to invest in a custom extrusion to save machining time / optimise shape or just go from solid? How are you going to package the pedals?

You finally get there and make a batch of pedals, how are you going to sell them? Advertisment? Where are you assembling / storing them?

All the while you hope to get to this stage with a product the consumer likes so you have not wasted a huge amount of time and money.

Lots to think about, and to fit into the 'boutique' market the pedal needs to be unique to or better than the competition, so back to stage one if that design isn't bang on point.

They say to make a small fortune in the cycling industry first you have to start with a large one.....
  • 3 1
 @Racer951:
Point 1 Racing was selling their beautiful american made podium pedals (now rebranded as Gamut) for 150-160USD. They could've slapped some taiwanese titanium axles ($50) in them and the price still would not have gotten close to these Taipei specials.
  • 1 0
 @wrc21: True, but why is this directed at me? I am not defending / discussing the Anvl pedal.
  • 1 0
 @Racer951: More robots! Can they make more tents for the unemployed homeless in my hood?
  • 1 0
 @endlessblockades: the human impact is something to think about. If it helps to bring manufacturing back from overseas though at least some jobs will be gained, in the future though who knows.
  • 1 0
 @endlessblockades: No, but they can make more of themselves.. creepy video of Fanuc factory in Japan, in the shadow of Mt Fuji, shows an enormous warehouse full of Fanuc 5-axis robots building more of themselves. They have overtaken us and are waiting for the right time to _EXECUTE_
  • 1 0
 @endlessblockades: I think it is a different part of the market. The companies that actually have healthy manual labour are the ones using robots. In the form of CNC machining (Hope, Nicolai...) or laser cutting (Orange, Unno...). It is when they think to be able to get away with worse labour conditions or pollution that simpler manual labour outweights robot work. If people were so concerned about keeping skilled workers busy more would invest in something from Orange or Nicolai. Instead a huge chunk or the market is occupied by the far east companies leaving people to work under unhealthy conditions and allowing for unhealthy waste management (carbon fibre production or waste water from anodizing, for instance). I think this kind of automation allows a company like Orange or Nicolai to take something back again. Not that it would attract those who'd go for the cheapest deal but at least it makes them less prohibitively expensive for those who care.

Still it is pretty nuts what happened in the past years. I got the lowest spec Cannondale Prophet back in 2007 as I replaced most parts with stuff I already had (forks, brakes, wheels etc) but full retail was about 1700euro back then. And it said Made in USA. The lowest spec Orange Four or Five is 3500euro now. Much higher spec and a much more sophisticated frame construction than what I got back then but still, 1800 euros difference, well over double the price. I think automation isn't what would cost jobs, it is lack of customers that will. If automation is going to help lower the prices then that's only going to help these workers.
  • 12 3
 I have a pair of DMR V8s. I have ridden these pedals for 15 years. I have never serviced them which I am not proud of. However they have no play, still spin without resistance and have racked up thousands upon thousands of KM.
  • 12 4
 Yes and they are thicker than a pair of modern pedals put on top of each other. Try slim pedals for pedalling around and you'll see what it's about. These however are way too expensive
  • 3 0
 Sure, but half the time these new slim pedals are not truly concave (like the ones above). I hate the feeling of the axle. DMR V8s feel great underfoot.

Pedals are like many of the most wonderful things in life - shape and feel is far more important than measurements.
  • 4 1
 @iamamodel: just chose ones with a concave... I'd still use a concave-less pedal with crappy bushings over an inch thick block of metal. No wonder clipless pedals became so popular in 2000s for all sorts of riding when you had to pedal on these cubes, often in shoes which we completely worthless.
  • 9 0
 Vaults are a 6 year old design that still tops group tests to this day, if you like DMR feel under foot give them a try, they are bigger, lighter, thinner and grippier than the V8 by a whole bunch. I have had my set since they came out and will be buying another set when/if they finally die.
  • 2 0
 @WAKIdesigns: I have tried modern pedals and I do appreciate them. I don't appreciate the price however. And saying all that about slim pedals I still think the V8s feel great. Horses for courses I guess
  • 13 1
 I spend no more than 60 dollars on pedals. I love my deity componds!!!!
  • 2 0
 I have a pair I love too - 2 years in and going strong!
  • 2 0
 For a part I'm prone to bending or breaking, I'm with ya. Especially since I weight 270lbs. So far I've had good luck with Race Face Chesters this year. 3+ days of lift serviced riding a week and one axle is mildly bent from a 12ft drop I messed up. Unless I'm really feeling for it I don't notice the axle. $55 from my LBS. I'll probably ride them until they completely bust and then buy another pair.
  • 6 1
 I have some magnesium wellgo's that have been thrashed for over two years.. their still holding up to being treated like absolute shit.. best $35 bucks I think I've ever spent on a bike...
  • 6 1
 Same here. Wellgos hold very well! Funniest bit is that I bought the cheap plastic ones from Superstar for commuting, I ride them to work since a year, sun, rain, snow - no servicing, nothing. Fkrs do not want to die...
  • 4 0
 I wish there were more options more options for larger footed riders. Even Vaults feel a bit small under my size 13 Impact Impacts and anything else feels tiny.
  • 2 0
 Twenty6 will make larger pedals for you.
  • 2 0
 Crampon on Mountain by Canfield Bro.'s
  • 4 0
 Try VP Harriers. They are decently grippy, light at 380ish grams, and 110x120.....$66 at Merlin. I wear 11.5 and even though they are a tad big, I like the extra room.
  • 2 0
 @meSSican: I wear a 13 I love the harriers. Chromag scarabs also do the job
  • 1 0
 Harriers are great for big feet, but they require frequent maintenance. I switched to Vaults because I got tired of the constant bushing replacement. That said, it's an easy job.
  • 7 5
 So when Dietys pedals are reviewed I get abused and negative propped into oblivion for saying their pedal was not a true concave when it was stated in the article as fact. yet here PB are happy to state the fact this pedal is not concave as a major negative point?
  • 6 4
 Lets see how many negative props I get for stating fact this time!

This is actually what was said about this completely non-convave pedal:

" A truly concave shape should help make these even grippier and more comfortable than their predecessor"

Take a look at it:

www.pinkbike.com/photo/13966597

Yet this review bashes the Anvl pedal and it has nowhere near the same intrusive bulge at the axle.
  • 1 0
 Make sure you tighten all the pins before your first ride on cheap-o amazon pedals. A friend of mine bought a pair similar to those in the link and lost about eight pins on the first ride.
  • 1 0
 I just bought a pair, they better not suck
  • 5 0
 OK so not so great (objectively) and are expensive, did I miss anything?
  • 3 0
 where did they get those rusty double-T-iron? PB do you live at the metal market?) Just joking...
As for the pedals: $250 not my price category...
  • 2 0
 The Anvl Mandrel 'aluminium' handlebars are also one of the most expensive aluminium bars I've seen at £90 in the UK.

I run them....but only because I got them new for £25 off eBay.
  • 5 1
 All the Anvl components to me look like OE crap. Nothing premium about them to be charging boutique pricing imo.
  • 2 0
 Ive had great luck with my Chromag contacts, 2 seasons of DH bashing on them with zero issues. i also tried out a set of Nukeproof electrons(plastic) on my hard tail and fat bike, great pedal for $50, super grippy
  • 1 0
 I could buy the 260$ Ti pedals at 366 grams.
Or three pairs of the same pedals in plastic for 180$
And the plastic pedals weigh a svelt 300 grams.
The Ti pedals are interesting but I would rather hear a long term test about the plastic pedals.
  • 1 0
 du bushes are rubbish. had them in my lg1's (they are called igus bushes but same sort of thing) and subsequently wore them out in a few months.....e-thirteen do do replacement axle kits at 50 quid or so but i cant seperate the damn things as there jammed on whats left of the bushes. To be fair they can still be used as they do still turn and as they cost me nearly 100 pounds (in a sale) i am gonna use them a little longer but they have tons of slop if you move them around by hand. i would buy these pedals again in a heartbeat if e-thirteen would make these with standard bearings as the grip is insane (honestly no other flat pedal can rival the grip on these - none) but du bushes need to go......i wouldnt touch these pedals unless they change them to proper bearings.....i mean thats what bearings were designed to do not these silly little discs of plastic that wear out sooo quickly.
  • 1 0
 a bit off topic, but does anyone know what to do when a saint pedal leaks grease out of the seal and has a heap of play? If I fill the pedal with grease it fixes it, but it soon comes out and develops play. Tightening the bearings doesn't do anything.
  • 1 0
 Take them back to where you bought them and ask for your money back, that's what I had to do. I really like the price/performance of the Saints, but they have to fix the design before I'd buy them again. Unfortunately, it's a common issue.
  • 1 0
 Maybe I'm too old school, but I'm still rocking Shimano M636's. They are heavy, but totally reliable, keep me clipped for climbing and provide plenty of platform for everything else.

That being said, why not just get a pair of these for $25:
www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1H9A1O?psc=1
weigh about 390g for the pair. If they break, just get a new pair. The cost is so low anyone can afford them...
  • 4 2
 I love these pedals, even with big feet. Maybe im biased, i love Anvl/transition. But i feel right at home on everything they make. Keep it up guys
  • 1 0
 I love them too but not sure about this one..
  • 4 1
 And then, there is the Xpedo spry weighting merly 260g with a MSRP of $79.00 USD....
  • 2 0
 With steel axes! Just dont put them on hardtail and huck to flat, broke mine this way Frown
  • 1 0
 the pedals are probably one of the last low tech products on a modern bike, therefore every hardware shop can program their CNC. The outcome is a mediocre product with a high price tag.
  • 3 0
 Burgtec Penthouse...they look the best and take a lot of abuse! Plus Ratboy...otherwise Vaults...simple!
  • 2 0
 Save $90 and save 68g by getting GAMUT Podium Pedals, 298g, $169 USD.

No Ti nuttiness and the weight is true... www.gamutusa.com/podium-pedals
  • 1 0
 Pretty weak design what with them shitty pins & 6061 @ that price? Lotta f*ckin' scrilla fo' 6061.

How 'boot a ti/composite version w/proper pins. Shit be dope light long time yeah. ????
  • 2 0
 I'll stick with dmr vaults.. grippiest and toughest pedals around and not too heavy either.
  • 2 0
 you know what the old saying is

once you go vaults you ..always go vaults?

idk.
  • 1 0
 If the pedals are $40 they are called plastic. For $130 they are called composite. Go Twenty6 and forget searching for pedals ever again.
  • 1 0
 I'm all about wasting my money on super cool new components.....but these are junk for $260...you shall not "take my money" today.
  • 1 0
 Wellgo MG2 : 65$ and 270Gr whith Ti axle (35$ and 330Gr with chromo axle). Zero play after 1 season !
  • 1 0
 still sportin' the same set of TIME Z's I bought myself what must have been 7 to 8 years ago. still silky smooth, no wiggle
  • 1 0
 I like the ANVL stuff. I have bars, saddle, and wheels. Wheels have been super solid and fair priced
  • 1 0
 Not too long ago you could find great Sealed/forged alloy pedals for 60 bucks. All day. and now..... jeez.
  • 1 0
 they think that it will be easier and stronger))))
  • 1 0
 Spank pedals just blow every other flat out of the water.
  • 1 1
 TL;DR... IS A WEAPON FROM ALIEN Vs PREDATOR!?!?
  • 1 1
 When they say composite what do they mean? Isn't this pedal just plastic?
  • 1 0
 Xpedo spry FTW!
  • 1 1
 F that!... sticking with my moderately priced Wah Wahs...
  • 1 0
 payola is alive and well
  • 1 1
 Why all the tilt?
Below threshold threads are hidden







Copyright © 2000 - 2024. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv42 0.061338
Mobile Version of Website