Tech Talks: Tricks of a Mechanical Mind, Presented by Park Tool – Video

 Choose your hammer wisely.

 Three rules in engineering
1) use the correct tool for the job
2) a hammer is the correct tool for the job
3) anything can be used as a hammer

 It's dangerous to go alone. Take this hammer.

 They're also punches and prybars

 @mattvanders: you missed duct tape and wd40 on your list

 @mattvanders: *three rules of being a mechanic.

 www.youtube.com/watch?v=mn91QAL4veY

 Screwdrivers aren't just chisels, they are pry bars too.....

 Stop! Hammer time..

 @adrennan: If you're sufficiently skilled with (whatever serves as) a hammer, you won't need wd40. Unless of course you use the wd40 can as a hammer.

 @vinay: i suppose if you are strong enough you can forge weld with just a hammer rendering the duct tape also useless.

 If you are Jeremy Clarkson the hammer is the only tool

 Ok, Primitive Pete !

 @PullMyBrakeLever: BHF please

 @PullMyBrakeLever: That's what she said

 New grip and some dish soap does wonders for a worn out flashlight.

 ...

 A fleshlight and dish soap makes for a fun time, says the misus!

 +1
Tube Cutter much much better than a saw.

 A saw is the correct tool for the job with aluminium steerers and bars. I’ve used both over decades of working on bikes. Both will do the job ok but if you want to do it properly a guide, a good hacksaw and a file can’t be beat. No swelling at the cut, no tool marks from the pipe cutter and I actually find it quicker AND takes less energy pushing a saw than spinning a pipe cutter.
I use old grips lock ons and an old stem as guides. Good hacksaws aren’t expensive, nor are files and it takes less than a minute to produce a good clean finish.

 +1 on this.. exactly my experience

The "swelling at the cut" from a tubing cutter that Thom describes is a pretty much unavoidable byproduct of the wedged shaped blade and a pain to get rid of.

 @ka81: Maybe if you don't have a guide, the tube cutter for steel will have a thicker blade than the ones for copper and will leave a lump, the ones for copper with the thin blade won't last long on 6061 aluminum they will chip, then you will have to finish with a hacksaw and have to buy a new cutter for $10.

Ask me how I know this.

 #hacksaw4lifebro

 @MrDiamondDave: Jim Duggan Lves!

 Tube cutters are for hacks.use a proper saw guide and a file.

 This is one of those one-time jobs I leave to my lbs to do. I don't have the tools to install or remove the lower crown race anyway so I could just as well have the lbs cut the steerer too. Surprised by the poll recently, I do think all mountainbikers should be able to build and true their own wheels. Now that is a regular job that could save you trouble in the long run.

 Tubing cutters are great. Straight cuts with proper use.

 @rideonjon: Hacks = those smart enough to find a better way... Screw innovation I'm a happy caveman type, js...

 @vinay: I use a section of PVC pipe and my trusty rubber mallet to mount the crown race. Perfect and the PVC pipe was free from the construction site across my street

 I broke the blade on my tube cutter quite easily so back to hack saw and file. Also, can't believe I've only just discovered Gorilla tape for tubeless set up. Way cheaper and easier to use.

 Just preferences. For straight cuts at a perfect right angle to the steerer tube, the pipe cutter is much easier to use. Cause if you need to use a file with your hacksaw, you might as well file away the swelling of the cut when using a pipe cutter. So what. If you like the hacksaw better, cool

 Plasma cutter, but you can’t use it for a hammer.

 @tremeer023: until you need to replace a spoke or nipple. The glue from the gorilla tape sticks to the rim. Makes for a tough mess to clean up and could make your next set up tougher.

 Angle grinder ftw

 @pigman65: with a cutoff wheel?

 @vinay: most of the time you don't need the expensive tool for a lower crown race either. newer forks have a little indent in the back that lets you insert a thin screw driver or chisel and twist/pry it off easy. some new crown races are split in the back and come off by hand. installing a fork is way easier than truing a wheel that is out of round. i do everything on my bike but that. if my wheel is that messed up i take it to my LBS.

 I was surprised my canyon came with a poorly hacksawed steerer, was rough and a bit crooked, would a tube cutter have worked?

 @ColquhounerHooner: haha thank you. of course a quality pipe cutter from any plumbing department will work. just don't try to cut the whole thing off in one rotation like Mr Swelling.

 @DDoc: if you haven’t seen it I have to question how often you’ve used a pipe cutter on thick aluminium tubes commonly found on bike parts. I could get you a pic of various old seat posts and still have one fork with this issue, seen it on countless bars cut by myself and others. I could also show you pics of the flawlessly clean cut on the steerer on my bike right now for which I used a saw and guide. But I CBA. If you know better that’s fine by me on this one. Like I said, both will work. Since you mention it I am a handy man, it’s my general occupation. I use pipe cutters all the time; just not when a hacksaw and a guide works better. I once thought pipe cutters were good for bikes too but I’ve never seen a cut made by a pipe cutter leave as clean a finish as a hack saw and a quick file.
PS I am not one of those guys who must pedantically do everything by the book and my initial comment wasn’t meant as an insult. It just so happens in this case I’ve tried a lot of methods for cutting bike tubes and wanted to point out my findings.

 @DDoc:
Tubing cutters don’t remove material like a saw or cutting wheel, they displace it. The thinner the blade and the less wall thickness, the less Material is displaced.. but it’s still happening.

My experience hasn’t been good but I agree that they are a convenient way to get a straight cut, so have at it if it works for you!

 WAyyyy cheaper @tremeer023:

 Every had a pipe cutter start to walk - ugh. that is ugly stuff. just running a cork screw around the tube. Hacksaw and guide is what I learned when I was a pro...

 @GaryC: Use a heat gun to remove tape and any adhesive. Low to medium heat and will peel off with no residue.

 @ThomDawson: Miter saw with a non-ferrous metal cutting blade and a shaviv deburr tool works great too. Shorter the back fence on the saw the better and you can easily set up blocks to space out for tapered steerer tubes.

 @yeti951SD: OR you could just use a steerer tube guide and a hack saw.

 Bring it here you cowards. I'll bite that damn steerer off.

 @DDoc: you’re saying you’ve never seen the inside of anyone’s stem all gouged up from the bell end left from a pipe cutter?
Sure you can file it off but most people don’t.
Pipe cutter is for plumbing. Bikes deserve better.

 The rubber coated end of a Park cone spanner works great to remove the funky axle bolt on shimano XT cranks if you don't have the special tool.

 The rubber coated cone spanner end is also great to beat out dents in aluminium hydroformed

 Every shady mechanics reason after broken your bike.

 A mechanical mind is not fixed in anyway. It envisions systems in 3 dimensions and can quickly add/subtract and rearrange components to find a optimum solution. When i design something it has to work in my head first.
Visualization is the key. Imagination is the magic.

 Or just insert a piece of old inner cable into the new outer before you cut it.

 @vinay: That's BRILLIANT! +1

 Co-worker took an old broken titanium skewer and ground it into a pokey tool. Works the best IMO. Spokey pokes are all right but they tend to get lost easily.

 @vinay: That's clever, will try thanks.

 @EndlessWheelie: Thanks, apparently I should have shared this earlier . My inspiration came from the advice I once got when cutting a threaded rod. First screw a nut on, then cut it (and deburr if needed). Then unscrew the nut again and voilà, the end of the thread is good again. Of course that is not related to mountainbikes (though I have used it to mount a rack to a "regular" bike) but it was good inspiration.

 @vinay: Similarly, slip some old outer housing over inner cables before cutting to length. Cuts down on fraying.

 @pmhobson: Good, that should work. I've got a good cable cutter so I don't have any issues with fraying.

 Thanks! I've been doing all my bludgeoning with a TL-1.2. Takes forever that way.

 And the above-mentioned plasma cutter is the perfect tool to use on the piece of shit that bludgeons a dog with anything

 @YoKev: Calm down chucklehead, it's a joke.

 Now that I'm older I can really relate to those, "The More You Know" signage. Also, "oh yes thank you, yes, yes, THAT'S PLENTY! no no no, thank yooouuuuu!"............I remember in my teens I had a realization moment I thought I knew everything, then I blacked out because I couldn't handle it, and we'll leave it at that.

 @Konyp I'm not watching until someone confirms that no beer was harmed in the process of making this video. I'm an ethical person and wouldn't stand such cruelty.

 nail clippers work even better.

 One of these works best: www.amazon.com/Panduit-GS2B-Controlled-Tension-Cut-Off/dp/B001EU2558

Cuts the ends completely flush and, tensions the ties before cutting. I've been using mine for over 30 years.

Here's one that's a little (lot) less money: www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Professional-Cable-Wire-Tie/dp/B006ISG5M0 - Can't vouch for it lasting 30+ years, though. ;-)

 Or a proper flush cutter from a hobby shop

www.amazon.ca/Xuron-2175-Maxi-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBU0YC/ref=pd_cp_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ABZ1YPBC96QXTEXWS275

 Or grab the tail end of the zip tie with pliers as flush as you can. Do a couple of twists and yank. Works great

 @Zhehan: Been using my zip tie gun going on 10 years now. One of my favorite tools i have.

 @Zhehan: those cutters work well but you have to watch that the tension isn’t too high when using on shift cable housing. It can actually compress the housing around the cable and cause friction (poor shifting).

 you can open a bottle with a bill

 Your a dreamer brightside. It'll never work

 I have tools from the usual suspects, Park, Proto, Snap-On, etc and also some bits and pieces from Harbor Freight. No issues with them at all, from my backup torque wrench to the sockets and torx bits. They work fine with moderately heavy usage.

 @EndlessWheelie: Yeesh....who the hell can afford snap-on

 @mnorris122: people who take their bike tot he shop to get fixed

 @mnorris122: I hear ya. I can't afford them personally, but my dad was a pro mechanic and I use many of his tools since he passed. Almost all of his tools are engraved with either his name or some kind of floral design so I can't help but think of him when using them.

 unnecessary. electrical tape is mostly butyl rubber which will weld to itself when stretched and wrapped tightly.

 @DDoc:

I don't think it is necessary.

I just think the 'spot welding' is an idea I could use with other things.

 A standard rotary pipe cutter does the job perfectly for aluminum tubing, try it on an old handle bar or fork steerer tube and you will see. The proper tool is already in every hardware store in the world.

 Sounds like an expensive way to do what a saw guide and saw does perfectly.

 @mnorris122: yup saw guides are cheap.
www.amazon.com/Nashbar-Steerer-Tube-Cutting-Guide/dp/B004UMEID4

 @mnorris122: expensive? A combo of a pipe cutter and 4" of chainsaw blade shouldn't cost much. Plus you have to figure in the hacksaw which you wouldn't need anymore, unless there is some other part of your bike you saw on.
I hate sawing though. I've done it a few dozen times and it isn't terrible, just messy. I want a better way.

 Tout suite?

 @fracasnoxteam: Rodney

 @fracasnoxteam: tout de suite?
tout suite has become an english idiom.

 @blueninja: As in "I don't care for marzipan, it's just tout suite"?

I don't know. I'm just guessing.

 Careful, OJ might be reading this.

 I like the pedal wrench for that.