Descending It's on the descents where things get good. And I mean really, really good, especially if you're the type of rider that enjoys tight, technical downhill trails, the kind where a new chunky puzzle waits around every corner. In those types of situations, the VHP absolutely thrives, and even if you make a mistake or three there's a good chance this bike will let you get away with it.
Steeps, rough tracks are its forte, and it exhibited a surprising level of nimbleness at slower speeds. It was easy to unweight and move the back end around when necessary, and carving into sharp turns didn't pose any problems either. If anything, the way that the VHP 16 sits into its travel when cornering had me on the hunt for tight sequential corners – the way it grabs onto the ground through the turns is a downright addictive sensation.
If I lived on Vancouver's North Shore, the VHP 16 would be on my shortlist of ideal bikes for that zone, an area filled with countless square-edged hits and momentum sucking roots. Put that type of terrain in front of the VHP 16 and it'll just plow right on through, unphased and ready for whatever's next. Bigger drops were dispatched with zero issues – there's a smooth ramp-up at the end of the stroke, and I didn't have any harsh bottom-outs.
It's also worth mentioning how satisfyingly silent this bike is. I'm a sucker for a quiet bike, and the Kavenz passed that test with flying colors. The idler pulley and the chainstay angle reduces any possible chainslap noise to a bare minimum, which meant that the only thing I heard out on the trail was the sound of my tires rolling over the ground and the wind rushing past my ears.
Downsides? Well, even though I mentioned that the Kavenz felt surprisingly nimble in the steeps, it's not all that lively when it comes to hitting jumps or popping over mid-trail obstacles. It's more of a ground-hugger than an aluminum kangaroo, and it takes more effort to get it airborne compared to bikes with less rearward axle paths. It's obviously still possible to take to the sky, it's just that it doesn't have the 'pop' to its handling that would have encouraged me to seek out bonus air time. Speeding up the rebound on the DHX2 shock helped, and I'm sure an air shock would add a little more pep to the VHP 16's step, but at the end of the day it wouldn't be the bike I'd pick if I wanted a spritely, energetic jumping machine.
www.sicklines.com/2022/06/12/kavenz-vhp16-mx-review
1150€ is a fair price for a high performance frame only. Airdop with their edit frame for 1200 pounds is a similar story.
This bike also adds custom sizing. Thats a big winner in my book. The reviews for this frame are also very high- it just rides freaking well and while I haven't tried it I'd bet it rides better than that Propain.
The appeal of a boutique brand is multifaceted. Part of it is the crypto-kitty effect; people like exclusive stuff, and there is plenty of rational reasons to want exclusive beyond being a rich douche. Another is a desire for something different. When you're in your mid 30s (most of us) and you've been riding for 2 decades, you can start to get bored. You work full time and might have kids, so your riding time is less but you (finally) have stable income, so you can afford things like this. Its fun to have something a little different, that isn't mass manufactured, and you know your supporting a new, fresh, small company. Because of things like their vlog, you feel a personal connection with the guys who brought this to life, and you want them to be successful.
TL;DR: rock bottom pricing isn't the #1 desirable trait for a frame.
Ita funny, you described my situation perfectly. Late 30s, 3 kids, competitive racing days are over, etc. Ill be replacing my outdated 2014 jekyll later this year, and this bike actually has now made my short list when the time comes. My days of looking to pop off things are long over, give me something that can plow, but still be nimble in tight, steep, techy situations. This looks like it could be a winner.
1. Geometry and Wheel size
Why would geometry be a determining factor in pricing? When I weld a frame together, it doesnt matter, if the tubes at angle x or x+1°. Same thing goes for Wheel size. 29er wheels are not more expensive than 27.5. There are also people who prefer bike that dont have the dimensions of a truck. More chioce is good.
2. Weight
Both frames are at about 500-800 gramms heavier than the competition, but both have very high reliability and when you hit the frame on something, you dont get a dent the size of a baseball. The Propain also has a full lvl. 5 DH certification, while most of the bikes in the category have only a lvl. 3-4
3. Ride quality
"I havent ridden it, but I bet it rides better than the Propain." Just some good old speculaton to really tie this argument together. Stop speculating and give me some actual points. Geometry on both is nothing outrageous, so that falls 100% under personal preference. What remains would be stiffness, but nobody has any numbers on that, and suspension kinematics.
Do you have any points to make about the suspension kineamtics?
4. Boutique
Its certainly nice, to get something, that not everybody has, but this is not a rational argument.
5. "Rock bottom pricing"
If rock bottom pricing was my objective, Id get a Calibre Bossnut or something. Both the Airdrop and the Propain frames ride very well (Ive tried the airdrop and multiple propains) and are beloved by many riders, so what do you have to say against that?
Convice me with facts and numbers.
To get something that not everybody has is 100% rational. It governs most of the choices that most people make throughout the day. It is the foundation of society, free trade, the economy, and socialized creatures such as ourselves. The point of a bike is to have fun, and that requires specialized equipment. If it was just to be out in the woods enjoying nature with no regard to having a cool thing to do it with we would all be hikers and trail runners. Having a cool bike is important to some people, and thats rational, moral, and.... just cool.
These Kavenz bikes are made in Germany. I'm looking to have a small run of custom frames made in China, and yes, its much cheaper there. But Even for just 20-30 frames, my brother who is an import/export expert says I need to fly out there to inspect and do QA on site before they are boxed up and shipped. It is a nightmare to ensure your entire production batch has the same quality control as your samples. When the entire process is done in a single locality, you typically get better quality control, but this comes at a higher expense.
Finally, we keep saying "higher expense", but these frames are still pretty cheap. They are below average for a high performance bike frame. The reviewer here (and others) say this bike rides exceptionally. That doesn't mean the Propain doesn't ride well, but this will ride noticeably different, and most would probably say better.
I don't think the bike industry is mature yet- only in the last 3 years have we finally settled on what "good" geometry is for a 5" trail bike. I think (hope) that in the next 10 years the manufacturing side of the bike industry can mature and catch up with how things are done in the automotive/aerospace industries.
If you feel differently I'd love to know why!
As a bonus I get to use the mostly silent Shimano rear hub, which is excellent.
I feared that the Sram clutch might be problematic because it feels weak in the workstand, but while actually riding I've not dropped the chain as a result of it*, perhaps it's just enough and maybe that helps keep the shifting light. (* I'm using a Shi12 chainring with the Shimano chain).
@neologisticzand the Shimano derailleur doesn't seem to work as well over the 42T-50T jump on Sram cassettes (I've not tried the 52T cassette, I assume that would be worse).
The only thing I strongly prefer about Shimano is the gear steps on the cassette. The second largest gear is much more useful at 45 than 42.
It is interesting that Kazimer notes that the chain stay at sag is 436 mm which is basically the magic number (435 mm) for a L-XL hard tail 29'er.
At 6'2"/ 188 cm and upwards of 85 kg/ 190 lbs the relative rear wards placement of the COM that is forced upon the rider by a short chain stay/ rear centre means that every first effort or percentage of energy or concentration (even if sub conscious) is focused on "getting forward" which detracts from other aspects of riding and skill execution.
For the properly tall/ larger rider a centred stance on the bike (helped by a longer effective rear-centre and steeper effective STA) is a total game changer.
I run a 2020 Sight and a 2020 Optic and the Sight design team nailed it perfectly for an XL rider and the Optic design team only get 9/10 because they failed to commit to the same effective STA which makes an obvious difference when you get the opportunity to ride them back to back.
Just my two cents worth based on 25 years of riding bikes with too short chain stays followed by five years of riding bikes that finally fit.
I'm 6' on a XL 2020 Optic and wouldn't want to be any farther forward because my knees are not plump at bottom of pedal stroke (from steep STA), but maybe a shorter reach would be a better solution.
The longer chainstay does require a tiny bit more steering input (you've got to really master maintaining center of mass and "tipping" the bike to create the steering angle underneath you, which is how you should ride anyway), but this creates zero issues as, like you, I am 6'2" ~195lbs.
" I also didn't have an adaptor to mount an I-Spec EV shifter to a Code brake ".
In my research there is none. Wolftooth does not make one. Problem Solvers is threatening but who knows when.
Please tell me I am wrong and one exists. Why someone has not come up with one I have no idea. SRAM has better brakes and many prefer Shimano shifting.
while expensive, this adaptor does have the positive side effect of dramtically improving the performance of the Code brakes!
Ride hard! PS not sure if the Saints have the new EV spec mount.........
Except that a single chainstay length will handle differently with each reach length...
And how would you measure that the shorter person on the smaller bike is getting the same handling as a taller person on a larger bike?
It's probably not a massive difference, but I do not doubt that skilled riders will notice a difference. (For example, my bike has interchangeable dropouts that increase the chainstay length by 10mm; not much, but the bike does handle juuust a little better on most terrain, in the longer setting. I'm 6f1in, on an XL. A smaller rider on a smaller size probably would prefer the shorter setting.
Exactly, everything is relative. Thing is, chainstay (rear-center) length relative to front-centerlength is one of those factors, and it's completely ignored when all sizes have that same chainstay length. However it is a big factor to how a bike turns in and carries through a turn. As @Lankycrank said, if the chainstays stay one length, the shorter riders (on Smalls) are biased more towards the center and tall riders (on X-Larges) are biased to the rear, thus two bikes of the same model with have pretty different turning handling depending on size.
what I mean is that if you want to 100% preserve the leverage curve/kinemetics/axle path/shock performance of the rear suspension, you can't just lengthen the CS. you would have to futz with all the things I mentioned to get the bike to behave in the same way as the bike with the shorter CS. Am I picking nits? yes, but so was the Manufacturer in this article. I would wager money that Norco is largely using a change in shock tune to compensate for the change in Kinemetics on the Shore when they upsize the CS.
as a 6'2" dude, I agree with you about short CS climbing.
Moving all pivots together is no engineering feat. Manufacturing will cost the same for carbon, but might increase cost for alloy. It's a basic level of engineering that should have always been done, but we don't demand much out of the bike industry.
Probably pulling it off with an idler pulley makes it even harder, but I would rather have appropriately sized chainstays than an idler pulley (shrugging emoji)
I really like this frame, btw
that is why you don't see it. period. end of story.
Is there any proven science behind the rear ward axle path thing I.e some lab tests? What happens when the wheel rebounds directly at the next bump? I have an open mind to it but just want to see some evidence...
You've now ridden both the GT and Norco high pivot bikes, how is does the Kavenz compare? it has shorter chainstays and a lot of anti squat. Is this a better bike to pedal if you only have one bike for chunky rooty and rocky but flattish terrain and more bikepark and enduro trails
The turn described above, is where short CS's don't work for me.
That said, as I read more HP reviews, every one of them acknowledges the additional drag from the idler pulley and as such, for me and my pedal heavy riding, HP bikes are probably just not the way to go.
Giacomo was great and direct in my couple of brief emails and I do run the 77Designz bash guard and find it to be the best available.
I'm fairly sure such a thing doesn't actually exist. If it does, I will be very pleased.
I think that is a compromise with the suspensions that have rearward path, but in a sense that "damping" of the impact is the reason we've used coil shocks and coil forks, so maybe there's no need for a coil on high pivot bikes?
I'm riding an YT Decoy. Depending on my ride I switch between coil (freeride, park) and air (trail). Both front and rear. The front behaviour differs way more between Zocchi Z1 and Trust Shout at the front, than Manitou Revox and Vivid Air in the rear (the Vivid is quity "coily"!). The pop of the Z1 ist quite similar to the Lyrik I had before (it is more sensitive of course). You simply push and pull to lift your wheel. With the Shout you don't need to push, it is useless. Just pull harder.
In general, quite impressive result for Kavenz' first bike.
Seriously , i think they are ugly
thanks
You should be quoting the CS number as sagged. They quote it in their geo chart. 436mm sagged. Not such a big difference.
adapter for 216 shock would be great to see
plenty bikes with that shock and 170/180 been use around and would be easily transferable into that frame - even with 27,5 wheels on both ends
Its one thing thta one person can never trul test though...