Interview: World Cup Brake Tech with TRP

Jul 16, 2023
by Nick Bentley  


Next up on our Downhill Brake Tech Deep Dive is TRP. TRP is sat somewhere between the dizzy heights of SRAM and Hayes on their comeback. Well, that's how I see it in my head at least. It's amazing to see how many riders are running the TRP brakes at the Downhill World Series.

Whether it's the big boys like Commencal/Muc-off or the Intense team, or many of the privateers dotted around the pits, it seems like TRP is everywhere. The TRP brake of choice is the TRP DH-R Evo. Although there are still some privateers running their older brakes, a large part of most people have ended up on the new-ish brake.

I visited the TRP pits to have a chat with their team on-site about what makes their brake so popular and speak about what tech lies behind this brake's success. I spoke to Colin Esquibel, who is the TRP engineer on-site at all downhill World Series races. Colin is the man who keeps everyone on TRP products running.

We spoke about, first and foremost, the reliability of their brake. As Colin pointed out, the DH-R EVO has been around a few years now and most of the riders using it have got it pretty much figured out. He describes it almost as something that, once you've got a setup that works well for you, you just need to keep on top of regular maintenance on the brake, and it will just keep working for you. It's almost a fit and forget situation. And that, to be fair, is the feedback I have had from the riders running TRP.

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So let's hear what the Colin has to say:

So what's the kind of headline tech stuff from your DH brake? What are the kind of features you want to highlight really?


Well, everybody's been running this EVO, we're going into the third year now so it's pretty darn refined. I mean, I know it's not sexy commentary and everything, but we have it to the point, you bleed it and you leave it alone and you're good to go. Yeah, the more you mess with it, you're actually doing yourself a disservice. We've gotten it to the point, and we enjoy the reputation of how reliable it is, and with that don't mess with it.

The pad of choice, at this point, has been our blue resins. That works for 95% of the riders on 95% of the courses. This is actually the only course here where we've had a couple move over to our full sintered metallics. So we have some riders doing that, changing out the rotors and the pads, because as good practice when you change the pad compound, you change the rotor.

Are you seeing people jump up a rotor size here as well?


With a couple people. Yeah, there's been a couple of tiny riders. Some on the female side obviously because they're a little bit tinier and some of our juniors that were getting by with the 203 previously and we bumped them up to a 223 for the front here. So this is actually the main venue, where we make a couple changes because it is Val di Sole and the track here is so steep.

Is it much more service heavy here?


Yeah, we're seeing people more like privateers with big issues that are used to a certain braking style for the rest of the circuit. Coming here for the first time and not being used to the steepness and length. Where, not that they're doing anything wrong, it's just this is new to them and they're wearing stuff out a little bit sooner and glazing or baking stuff where they normally wouldn't in the rest of the world.

So the reach adjustment is all toolless isn't it any other features you want to highlight?


Yeah the reach adjust is pretty simple. its just behind the lever. It used mineral oil, so you can spill it and not kill the world or stain your clothes or what not, too badly. I mean the colours sexy. I know everybody wants special tech but we just have this so refined at this point and that's the desire of a lot of people.

So what kind of things are you fixing regularly at the World Cup? What kind of attrition do you get?


Um, the quick tune up for these mainly with a lot of the privateers, because the teams have a full supply of stuff. But with the privateers and juniors and stuff at this point, as the practice season progresses and we get busier and we are three rounds in, things are starting to wear we'll do a hose refresh and also a master cylinder piston refresh. As different riders use their bikes and maintain them in various ways, you tend to get a little bit of a spongy feel after some miles or some hours or some venue hits and a quick fix for that is a master cylinder and seal refresh and a hose refresh. And that gets it feeling like new as well as a fresh rotor pads and that with the master cylinder and hose, gives you a brand new set of brakes.

So for people at home, what is your top tip for keeping their brakes feeling fresh and race ready?


I would do a fluid purge. If you haven't done it in a while. An easy way with that, to see if you need it, is get your syringe, put some fresh fluid in there, open the bleed nipple up, pull some fluid out. And then you got different colour fluid coming out. Do a fluid purge and a re-bleed.if you want to you can call up one of our offices wherever we are in the world ask for a master cylinder and a hose kit.

Is it a big job?


It's pretty easy. Basic mechanical skills. I know that's a matter of perspective. Your shop can do it. Any shop that sold them to you should be able to do it.

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I then headed over to the Intense pit to talk to Joe Breeden about how he likes to set up his TRP DH-R brakes.

Are you picky with your TRP setup at all?


In brakes set-up I'm generally very picky. TRPs are the brakes I've been the least picky with as possible. So in previous years, we've had to reset brake pad position every few runs at the World Cup, keeping pads almost brand new to keep a good feel, frequently bleeding. But now this last couple years since I've been on the new TRP brakes, it's been my easiest life for me and my mechanics now very rarely have to do any work on them because they're just super consistent lever feel. So when the breaks are consistent in there lever feel throughout all the pad wear, through different temperatures and levels of braking, then there's not a lot to do. So our life has got a lot easier since these new TRP brakes for sure.

So with your setup, lever-wise do you have a lot of reach on them?


No, I have my levers pretty close to the grip. The front I have more close than I do the rear. And if you were to feel them in the carpark they feel unbalanced, like the rear bites before the front. But somehow when I'm riding, maybe I don't pull as hard on the front or so, but when I'm on the brakes, they feel balanced when I'm coming down the track. So it's a little bit weird, because Stout, my mechanic, always says your brakes are unbalanced but I'm like nah when I'm on track, they're balanced. But I get what you mean in the in the carpark but we're very precise with lever angle. The bite point. But as I say they're super consistent on these brakes. So once we have it set, they're good. You know, even throughout the pad wear they stay very consistent.

You're on their new disc. How are we finding it?


Yeah, brilliant. I run 220 discs. I just like as much power as I can, front and back. I think they're a little bit thicker, so perhaps they deal with the heat a little bit better. They're definitely stiffer. And all I can really comment on is my experience here this week. You know Val di Sole is super steep, super demanding on the brake, get a lot of temperature into them and this is the best brake setup I've ever had here. The consistent feel and power top to bottom. So where exactly that's coming from? I don't know. But the brake and disc combined is phenomenal.

So is Val di Sole probably the most challenging track of the year for brakes?


Yeah, I'd say so. Yeah. It starts off pretty flat at the top, like not flat, but it's like you know you're not on a motorway. But then towards the bottom, the hill just gets steeper and steeper and steeper and by the last probably minute, you spent a lot of time on the brakes, and that's when they get really challenged. That's when the temperature really builds up and that's where you'll tell the difference.

Did you swap to the sintered pads instead of organics or do you just keep it pretty much the same?


No very, very rarely will we go sintered. We stick with resin pretty much the whole time. Unless it gets really wet and cold or really muddy then we'll start playing with sintered but that's quite rare.

Any tips people at home for looking after brakes?


Buy a set of TRPs as you never have to play with them. That all sounds like such a plug but honestly, the reality of it is. I used to play with brakes very frequently, at a World Cup it would be every few runs and just keep it consistent for feel and power. But honestly since having TRPs, I've put them on and they just stay the same until you have to replace the pads. So honestly, that is my biggest tip.




Author Info:
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Member since Nov 28, 2019
269 articles

129 Comments
  • 116 3
 Oooooh!! Do Shimano next! Ask about wandering bite point!
  • 59 3
 "We have never heard of that issue, Japanese products do not have flaws"

Baahaaahaaa!
  • 56 6
 "yOu dId noT bLeEd thEm riGhT!!!"
  • 26 5
 Fresh pads and a bleed before every run, and Shimanos are great!
  • 17 5
 If you have ever run saints then you know how good they are.

That being said, Shimano, WTF happened to the rest of your line up? It is not ok to the entire range of SLX-XTR plagued with the wandering bite point.

Also, when will new Saints come out? Can we have a bleed port on the calliper like those of the Sram code? I know not to add pressure to the system like with a Sram bleed but imagine the ease of a bleed with that simple addition of a bleeding edge port. *silently prays to the bike industry patent gods*

Saint power and reliability, ease of bleed without the mess like Sram, non-toxic mineral oil like Shimano. Guys, did we just solve brakes?
  • 15 0
 @monsieurgage: Ahm....TRP...Ahmm....
  • 5 0
 @Roost66:

My bad, wrong place and time.

I will wait for the Shimano deep dive.
  • 13 0
 @monsieurgage: add Hayes Crosshair alignment
  • 4 0
 @monsieurgage: I think he ment your last sentence described the TRPs.
  • 5 21
flag justinfoil (Jul 16, 2023 at 14:02) (Below Threshold)
 I'm betting we find out wandering bite point bullshit is really just a symptom of the 15mm front axle. I can pretty easily get my rotors to rub hard if I run the pads close, and this will cause piston pushback. Perhaps the Shimano architecture is more sensitive to piston pushback. Or perhaps it lets you corner faster and harder and makes for more pushback. It also probably shows up more with bigger rotors, longer lever means more rotor displacement for a given axle flex. I'll bet empirical tests with a stiffer axle, or smaller rotors, or more pad-to-rotor space would minimize any claims of WBP. Sure no one wants to be forced to smaller rotors,and pad gaps are very preferential, but we could all benefit from a stiffer front axle.
  • 13 2
 Good to have talked about it. It's the odd stuff on specialized sites. Forbidden matters.

1- Bite point on Shimano brakes;
2- Breakage of Sram pulleys on the first Eagle;
3- Chain floating on Sram Eagle's cog 50;
4- Shimano star rachet style freehub failure;
5- Failure of Shimano shifters with multi release;
6- No actual testing of Linkglide or Cues.
  • 10 1
 @Fat4242: #3, chain float on Eagle 50t is due to too much b-screw tension. If the upper pulley is too far from the cogs, it can move far enough into the plane of the big cog to get the chain moved over while bypassing the shift ramps. And the shift ramps are what times the chain to sync with the narrow-wide teeth on the biggest eagle cogs. Easy fix, back off the b-screw, ideally using the guide that (definitely) comes with Eagle mechs (and should come with complete bikes).
  • 9 0
 @monsieurgage: you saying Saints don’t have a wandering bite point? That’s… interesting.
  • 5 1
 @monsieurgage: You legitimately just made a comment asking for a bleeding edge like sram, and then go onto say "ease of bleed without the mess like sram".
  • 5 0
 @jomacba: Awkward sentence structure on my part. Sram has an easy bleeding process. "Like Sram" is the example.
  • 2 0
 @shredddr: Run Saints on all my bikes. Crisp and reliable. They have also been out with a great track, literally world cup track, record for the better part of a decade.
  • 1 0
 @monsieurgage: I’m wondering what if anything is different in the architecture of the caliper or lever, and why they haven’t adopted that elsewhere.
  • 1 2
 @shredddr: WBP is 95% lever induced. I still have a pair of Saint M810 calipers from 2010 now on my hardtail. Those went through many different levers and were victim of the WBP as soon as I replaced the original levers by some newer style lever (not the current XT lever but the gen before). At some point it annoyed me enough that they ended up in my spare part bin. I used those levers again on some TRP Slate t4 to try to gain more power, which it kind of did but it came with the WDP too.I ended up putting the Slate t4 lever on my M810 caliper and they are now set and forget, consistent AF and for that reason back on duty. Also it seems that the problem is mostly the Servowave linkage as I put some very basic 4 finger levers on some MT5 that had lost the master cylinder membrane and those feel good and consistent despite being the lowest end of shimano products. It was supposed to be a bikepark fix to finish the day but my GF asked me to replae the remaining MT5 lever with the same Shimano 4 finger lever and she is picky about her setup.
  • 2 0
 @monsieurgage: why do you want new saints if the current are super good ?
  • 8 1
 @justinfoil: Nah, it's the slack head angles of modern bikes that are causing wandering bite point.
  • 2 0
 @mr-moose: And external cable routing.

Cable tourism will solve it...
  • 1 0
 @shredddr: Yes, the Saints don’t have that issue.
  • 1 0
 @zede: the only thing I don’t like with my saints is the old I spec, so basically you have to use converters that don’t quite work properly.
  • 5 2
 @dualsuspensiondave: I have a set that would beg to differ.

XTR, XT, SLX, ZEE, and Saint. I have or had them all over the past 10 years and they will all start to wander at some point. Only Shimano set that never did was the old style XT 4 piston. And yes, I am well versed in how and when to bleed them.

TRP's and Hayes Dominions have never wandered and all bikes are slowing being converted to TRP or Hayes brakes.

RIP Shimano, just check the Thanks Shimano account on instagram. Smile
  • 1 0
 @zede: I fall victim to the same hubris as Icarus. Maybe it could be better? For instance they could move the bleed port rear facing like the new gen of shimano brakes or add a shimano branles bleeding edge port.

Then again, maybe they change it and I loss the availability of my favourite brakes.
  • 1 1
 @bikebasher: Saints are fantastic and have never done that with any set that I’ve seen. Worked in a shop, never happened or heard of it. 3 pairs over the years and none have done that. The rest including XTRs, and XTs (including the older ones) do and did.
  • 1 0
 @Fat4242: What even are #4-6?

Even #2: I had a first-gen GX Eagle and the pulley were the least of the problems. Fast wearing GX chain, fast wearing GX b-pivot bolt, light _and_ fast wearing SRAM clutch: experienced all of those, but the pulleys were not a problem at all.
  • 1 0
 @justinfoil: I bought the X01 Eagle in 2016 and the GX as soon as they came out. When the pulley problems started, everyone was critical of the GX. After they launched the NX and SX and the prices of all groupsets went up, magically everyone started to speak well of the GX and only bad about the NX and SX, since nothing had changed in the GX, it had just become less accessible. hahaha
  • 2 0
 @Fat4242: the low end groups didn't change the price of GX, you're just trying to make SRAM look greedy. GX was $545 in early 2017, still $545, maybe $587 from some outlets thanks to inflation.

Still not sure what the pulley issue was re: breakage... I can find some complaints of it getting clogged with mud because it's not a solid piece, but that spoked design is not exclusive to GX or Eagle. If you're referring to the running change to remove narrow-wide teeth from the upper pulley to avoid it getting out of sync and clicking, and I suppose breaking if you kept pedaling like that, that was a pretty damn minor issue, and rarely happened with proper b-tension (ask me how I know).
  • 1 0
 Remembering that Sram changed the design of the pulley (putting a ring around it to prevent the chain from locking between it and the Cauê) and then changed the cage to embrace the entire lower pulley. but she did it quietly without fanfare. Now I think what went through the head of whoever designed the Eagle to make a cage that didn't fully protect the pulley. And worse, when they released the 52T versions, the XX1 had a fully protected cage, but the aluminum X01 still had an unprotected cage. But worst of all has always been the sepulchral silence of the media that never even reported what happened.
  • 49 0
 have some of these exact brakes, legit the best brakes I've ever used. also I crashed and bent the bar clamp, TRP was very cool and sent me just the clamp instead of making me buy a whole new lever.
  • 11 0
 That speaks a ton for TRP
  • 13 0
 They could really stand to make a new short reach lever. I simply can't get them close enough to the bars. The aftermarket options are okay, but there's room for improvement
  • 1 0
 I have their Evo derailleur, the b-plate got messed up, probably to my fault, and they sent me a new one for free, just asked for my address and Bam! I love consumer direct.
  • 2 0
 @phalley: oak components does some aftermarket levers for these a think
  • 2 1
 Did you ride with Magura MT7's? If so. what's 'better'?
  • 3 1
 @GenesiZ: I've ridden those, as well as most brakes other than Trickstuff. these are the best I've ridden. good power, good modulation, reliable consistent performance, and easy to work on. also Magura can go F themselves with those plastic bar clamps and their terrible bleed port screws.
  • 1 0
 @phalley: If you can get some of the older TRP push-rods that should fix your issue. The new ones have a shorter thread section which doesn't allow the levers to be run as close to the bar
  • 2 1
 @GenesiZ: both amazing brakes, i own mt7 with oak lever and they feel superb, the trps have more modulation and a little bit less power, still a ton, they're easier on loose tracks for sure than the more brutal feel magura. Both awesome IMO


to touch on what @brighterlights said about magura, perhaps not working on your brakes as you would demolishing a wall could help, to all those who f*ck up masters and bleed screws, be gentle, there's no need to lock everything at 50nm, nothing will happen.
  • 1 0
 @nicoenduro: the magura bleed port screw is .5nm. they have to sell a special torque screwdriver for it because most torque tools only go down to about 1nm. you can sneeze on it and strip it. I haven't personally done it, but it happens all the time. claiming you have go at it like you're "demolishing a wall" to overdo it is a wild over exaggeration.

also those cheap ass plastic bar clamps with coarse thread wood screws to hold them on are utter garbage and belong on Acera or Altus level brakes.

but hey, they're german. ridiculous engineering that requires different tools and oil than literally every other brake is almost a requirement.
  • 1 1
 @brighterlights: you do not need a torque wrench, just make it slightly tight, if you ever worked on a bike and you’re not a strong men you won’t have a problem, if it’s the first time you touch a tool then maybe it’s a problem yes.

I agree on the shit bolts, the material, I never had any problem and neither had any of my friends, if they just machine a brake out of aluminium with proper bolts it would be better for sure
  • 3 1
 @brighterlights Different tools for a Magura? With just a siringe and a torx 25 you can do most of the work and maintaince on the Magura's. No need for special bleeding tools or a torque wrench. How about the big USA brand FOX with their special tools for servicing their forks and droppers?

The hate for Magura flows strong in your blood...

@nicoenduro Thanks a lot for your information. I've got the MT7's too with the Oak Components lever. Really love it, but the modulation is sometimes scary on loose tracks, just like you mentioned. I don't want SRAM of Shimano's, so I was looking around for something else. Since Oak also makes TRP levers, I'm kinda interested in them now. Thanks again for your feedback!
  • 1 2
 @GenesiZ: lol. almost all suspension requires special tools. manitou requires proprietary tools, so does EXT, so does some rockshox. magura are the only brakes that require their own special fluid and the only bike parts I know of that have a .5nm torque setting. I see neither of you are attempting to excuse the shitty design and materials on the bar clamps, as it should be, because it's just bad.
  • 2 1
 @brighterlights: the so called "special fluid" is mineral oil, the same that trickstuff, shimano, trp uses to name a few, they make a blue one, shimano makes a red one, but you can choose the one you fancy the most. nothing special about it.
  • 36 1
 If you mention replacing the master cylinder then please have the following: spare parts listed for sale on your website, an exploded diagram and a how to in either manual or video format. Stripping down a brake and removing the master cylinder to then replace the O-rings is not a simple job for many and can go wrong.

If your privateers are having issues then imagine the general public.
  • 2 0
 No doubt. Having to replace master cylinders is a huge no go. Never had to replace a master cylinder on any of my bikes since hydraulic brakes existed.
  • 33 2
 While you're at it with the interviews, can you tell them to shove it with the 200 vs 203 thing. What a cockup.
  • 13 0
 Especially when no one except SRAM (surprisingly) does any of the jumps consistently:
180 to 203 to 223 to 246 makes for +23, +20, +23. So dumb.

the silly imperial measurement based sizing (203mm is 7.99 inches, almost 8.0 inches, for those that don't know where 203 originally came from) almost pales in comparison to the inconsistent jumps.
  • 1 1
 @justinfoil: actually put a SRAM rotor on TRP brakes and there's literally 3mm less biting surface now. You notice it. Shop mechanic said it needs a different bracket to make the calliper sit lower, eh! And then there's the whole rotor thickness thing... 1.8mm vs. 2mm vs. 2.3mm etc
  • 1 0
 @burnerAccount: It's not the less surface contact alone that is the big issue. It's that as the pads wear without that full contact, the unworn part of the pad will stick out more and more and will eventually touch and prevent full pressure on the rotors. And it's not just "a SRAM rotor on TRP brakes", it's any time a xx3 mount is used with a xx0 rotor: not only will you have less power to begin with, eventually you'll have almost zero power.
  • 20 0
 A couple of there/their mix-ups are forgiveable... but confusing brake and break in an article about brakes is unfortunate.
  • 12 2
 Resin pads? Really? Or they 99% metallic sintered and 1% resin or what? Every other brand of resin pads I've used have been instant garbage.
  • 3 2
 Me too. First thing I do is toss out the resin pads. Hell with them.
  • 1 0
 the only good ones i found are the trickstuffs power, not on trp rotors for some reason, but shimano and magura were awesome
  • 6 2
 Will agree with everything that was said about how little service the trps require. Went well over a year without a bleed and they had consistent power the whole time.

That said, I’m very surprised everyone is running the resin pads. I had nothing but terrible luck with them. Difficult to bed in, and if the tiniest bit of anything touched them, they became contaminated and it never burned off. Switched to some sintered galfer pads and never had to touch them again.
  • 4 0
 I'm a huge fan of Galfer Pro pads on my Code RSC brakes. They are a bit expensive, but they have great stopping power, quiet, good in the cold wet or dry heat. They wear more quickly than other pads but I'll take that tradeoff especially since I only ride once or twice a week.
  • 3 2
 My experience exactly. Those blue resin pads suck. The worst brake squeal Ive ever dealt with. Switched to MTK red ceramic pads and problem solved. Once I switched pads they have been really good brakes. I’d buy them again.
  • 2 0
 @blang11: I use and love Galfers too. If I'm right, their pads are semi-metallic.
  • 7 0
 Ran the original blue pads that came with my Trail Evo's, got 1,300+ km's out of them and had zero issues. Was very impressed with how consistent they performed regardless of what the conditions were.
  • 1 0
 I put MTX gold pads on mine and have been very happy. Heard good things about Galfer. On stock pads, these were light-years ahead of to Code rsc they replaced, but lacked both power and modulation compared to the formula cura 4s on my other bike (which are less than half the price). These with better bads are about on par, and the lever shape is much better than formula
  • 3 0
 Quadiems on both my Patrol and my 5010. Absolutely love them, great feel, great power and very little fuss compared with any other brake I've ever used. A pair of Evos are in my future too. Can't wait.
  • 2 0
 I have TRP DHR Evo on two of my bikes and the Trail EVO on my “XC” bike. Its the best/simplest brake Ive used and the lever blade has subjectively the most ergonomical feel out there.

The Blue Resin is a great pad but wears out fast, I have gotten fade on the rear with that pad but it comes back quickly. Ive since gone to MTX Red pads for the rear which show no fade and are powerful and quiet.

Ill never buy another brake than TRP, they just work reliably around season and bleeding them is far simpler than SRAM.
  • 2 0
 The only quirk I’ve had with my Trail EVOs (and really any TRP brake I’ve worked on) is the plastic Shimano-style bleed cup doesn’t even sort of get the air out of the lever/master cylinder. They have to be bled like SRAMs with a syringe on both ends and some good vacuum pulling at the lever. Doing it that way gets them absolutely perfect every single time.

The fluid also seems to last far longer in TRPs. Shimano fluid always turns black after a few months but TRPs stay red for several seasons (even when using Shimano fluid).
  • 5 0
 The change of color is not due to the fluid itself but to the fact that shimanos brake are not anodised on the inside
  • 1 0
 @Happymtbfr: Really! Never would’ve guessed but that makes sense. Does the raw alloy interact with the fluid?
  • 1 0
 @eicca: it does indeed
  • 4 0
 Good to know that all it takes to get these feeling like new is "a master cylinder and seal refresh and a hose refresh. And...a fresh rotor [and] pads".
  • 2 0
 Yeah I was wondering when the list of components was going to end... A lever, M/C body and caliper are all that's left to change!
  • 1 0
 I bought a set recently and have had some very frustrating bed-in issues. As in, brakes give great initial bite in the parking lot, but once you actually go to use them on a run, you get more "honk" than power. I think (keyword: think) that the bed in process is just outstandingly long because of the extra hard rotor steel, and that I didn't actually bed fully before I started riding. Unfortunately TRP's published bedding instructions don't even cover the organic/blue pads that come with the brakes, so you're basically flying blind there. And since, anecdotally, most riders I know don't actually bed in at all, I'm guessing this is a common problem?

I ended up exchanging the front rotor for a brand new one, assuming the original was glazed beyond recognition, and paired with new metallic pads front/rear. Now, after an extended bed in, the front is feeling really good, but the rear still honks like a goose. Guess I need yet another rotor...
  • 4 0
 Full disclosure: these brakes seem much more sensitive to pad material changes than any I’ve had. After 200 miles on the blue resins, I was heard to say “dude these are so good, can’t imagine how great they’ll be with these metal pads,” and just swapped to d02s Shimano standard metals…I glazed em. Thought I was a donut and all that.
I closed my eyes, nodded silently, and acknowledged what I’d done. Slapped a new set of rotors on, brand new red mtx (had loved those on some codes), and they’re so so good.
I love the hook on the lever, with their AG speed holes…I love the industrial looking reservoir / lever assembly. I love that they’re tektros, but racing. Love em. They’re big strong brakes on monster rotors, they don’t fade (I can only hold on for 20 minutes, and I’m always working on only braking when I need to brake, but I ride my brakes way too much and these are ready for it)
And it’s sick that I have those extra rotors now too ahhahahahah
I’ll save them for when I change compounds to something else that’s great too
  • 1 0
 Had a similar experience. Never heard brakes make so much noise. This was with the blue TRP pads. They seem ok with Aztek sintered pads though. They do not like Shimano resin though.
  • 4 0
 My blue TRP pads (and also my friend’s) went all honky and weird very suddenly. From reading forums and talking to TRP it sounds like the blue pads are finicky. I switched to the gold sintered pads and other than some of that typical metallic noise when braking (nothing bad, just audible) they are flawless and way more powerful.
  • 3 0
 @owl-X: MTX pads are the best out there!
  • 6 0
 @stormracing: they may be. I’ve loved the reds on codes and these rep’s, got some psycho golds on deck should I need to go even slower!
Brand new reds on brand new Trp rotors have stayed SILENT and fade-free so far this summer—even had a few hot days with long descents.
God DAMN I can go slow!
  • 1 0
 @stormracing: seconded. MTX Red are so good!

Only one thing is, when they're cold AND wet, they can get noisy but they come back to temp so quick that it's not really annoying. I take it a a sign, like "nice work not braking through all that jank", when I manage to get them cold enough to notice.
  • 1 0
 Toss rhose blue pads. They suck. Non-stop “honk” for me. MTK red pads cured the problem completely. Great brakes after that.
  • 2 0
 @owl-X: I've been loving my MTX reds but always wa Ted a little more power on the rear (I've got 203mm front, 180mm rear) and after a contaminated pair of reds I couldn't seem to recover, I sanded my rear rotor and bedded in some MTX golds and I'll swear it's like I went up a rotor size. Astounding power especially since it's on a 180 rotor.

And I will agree with what others say about the squeal when wet, but as mentioned once you get them dried off they go silent immediately.

On Tektro brakes not TRP, but they have been stellar for me. Only bled now after a year and a half, and no bubbles, no grime, perfect as always.
  • 3 0
 So good. Epic stopping, no fade, thicc rotors don’t warp, easy to bleed. If they work for my 245lb azz they will work for anyone. We’ll done TRP.
  • 4 3
 I loved my saints but the wandering bite point was a deal breaker as well as the constant bleed required. After spending hours searching on forums,I switched from shimano oil to the "Red Line likewater suspension oil" (on some EU forums, they use putoline instead)... that oil fully solved the wandering bite point. The ports on the calipers are too small and restrict the oil flow when using the standard shimano oill, which creates the wandering bite point. The red line is super thin and has no trouble flowing throught the ports during those repeated/fast braking moments. Anyway I switched to the TRP dhr evo and am much happier now lol but if you're annoyed with the shimano, try the redline likewater or putoline
  • 2 1
 First I’ve heard of wandering bite point with Saints.
  • 3 0
 Love my TRP dh evos, like they said a true set it one once and forget about it.. been super reliable, no issues with anything
  • 1 0
 So anyone have any ideas about this issue? DH-R Lever has almost full power, but for the adjustment knob, it has to be run all the way out and the lever is super close to bars. Luckily I prefer levers real close to the bars, but I would like full adjustment. (These are also with Freedom Coast levers). The issue gets temporarily fixed, but on a couple of small crashes that did not impact any of the brakes, it goes right back to how it was.

Luckily TRP said I can send it in to them, and if it’s not a warranty issue, they will just charge me $30 to service.
  • 2 1
 Honestly, its not a bad brake great consistent modulation and awesome braking power.
When you look at it from a racers perspective, that's all it needs to do.
From a longer term perspective, I just could not deal with them anymore. The Tektro shit quality really comes to life when you least expect it paying 600 a set for a brake set.
A few of the many things on the reason why I dumped mine....

-Caliper Halves were not mounted even -Why do they use a T15 for the master cylinder caps.... T10 or T25 is MTB world otherwise use a allen flush nut
-Caliper nut screw seal is unevenly cut leaving a lot leaking
-Pads wore more in the back pistons than the front.
-Cheap ass pins holding the brake pads are hollow at the head so they snap off under 2nm of TQ if that after numerous uses,
-they're too cheap to provide you new pins when you buy a new set of pads
-and they take forever to break in, at least 2 full rides before the final bit becomes alive, yes I watched all the TRP how to videos and all I did was wake up my whole neighborhood with them howling

-Shit lever design, fully indexed in you have a 20mm gap still to the bar (Thank go for Freedom coast to produce levers for this) But that means another 120 out of your pocket


So thats about it on those guys
  • 3 0
 Huge fan of my quadiems. Low maintenance and consistent bite point, great lever shape as well.
  • 1 0
 I put Quadiems (sprung for the G-spec for bling) on a bike 4 years ago and they are absolutely the best brakes I've ever had. I like to mention this fact whenever I reasonably can because they're just so good.

In 4 years I've bled them maybe 3x (probably due...) and replaced pads a few times. Totally consistent, never felt like they 'needed' maintenance, I just know I ought to do it.
  • 1 0
 I liked those, too. Sold them with a bike but never had to do anything to them - they just worked great and as mentioned the lever felt really nice. Tektro making big moves in the brake world.
  • 2 0
 Same, literally no maintence. Never squeak, never fade, feel great, look cool, replacement parts available if ever needed. I love these things and am a huge fan.

My shimano's on the other hand (all three pairs of them) squeak like mad if I don't ride them or keep the rotors/pads in a sterile hypobaric chamber when not in use.
  • 1 0
 Damn, I could not get enough power out of quadiems. Even with metallic pads, just struggled to get consistent performance. Went to cura 4s, super happy.
  • 4 0
 When are these new rotors available?
  • 2 2
 "So the reach adjustment is all toolless isn't it any other features you want to highlight?


Yeah the reach adjust is pretty simple. its just behind the lever. It used mineral oil, so you can spill it and not kill the world or stain your clothes or what not, too badly. I mean the colours sexy. I know everybody wants special tech but we just have this so refined at this point and that's the desire of a lot of people."

Seriously - so many grammatical and bad writing errors in this piece... not to mention just plain bad English.
  • 3 0
 I think the issue is that they are typing out a conversation word for word that occurred in the pits. A few years back I attended a legal deposition. They sent me a copy of the transcript and I was shocked how odd some of my responses sounded.
  • 3 0
 Soon discs will be bigger than wheels Big Grin
  • 1 0
 They'll be like MotoGP bikes where the discs have gotten so big now they had to invent a quick-release caliper that you have to undo to get the wheel off!
  • 12 0
 I reckon we could integrate a braking surface directly on to the rim. Wink
  • 3 4
 Hayes Dominion A4 for the win. Had code rsc on 2 bikes in the past then Shimano XTR on my enduro bike. Decided to switch from the shimanos to Hayes and I can’t believe I didn’t make the switch sooner. With MTX red pads they are everything I want from my brakes. Used to suffer from sometimes extreme arm pump, especially on longer steeper runs. Not going to say the arm pump is completely eliminated but after switching to the Hayes the severity has been drastically reduced. Tons of power, ultra light and smooth lever feel, and they just stay so consistent month after month.
  • 2 1
 Are you working for Hayes?
  • 2 0
 How many people who need pads to last, say, a season are riding blue resin pads? How about wet climates?
  • 4 0
 I use their blue performance resin pad in all conditions and never any noise and nothing but raw biting power. Will definitely go through a set of pads per season front and rear riding downhill every weekend but still last long
  • 1 0
 Got 1,300+ km's out of a year of riding on mine (came with my Trail Evo's and this was in the middle of the pandemic so sourcing other pads were damn near impossible).
  • 1 0
 I believe they use the same size pads as Saint, I'm sure someone will correct me if I am wrong....
  • 1 0
 @IanGilbertoud: Correct, Shimano 4 piston pads will fit (non finned obviously)
  • 1 0
 Are the rotors in the pics TRP prototypes? They kinda look like galfer shark rotors.
  • 1 0
 Zoom in on the first picture. You can make out a TRP on the rotors.
  • 1 0
 They are the new TRP prototype
  • 2 0
 These brakes with 223mm Galfer rotors and Galfer purple pads are god tier!
  • 4 6
 "Buy a set of TRPs as you never have to play with them."

Except replacing the master cylinder piston after 3 bike park trips.

(Yes, I know racers go hard, but they usually do less runs over a weekend than many riders do in a couple days at the park. And, it's a master cylinder, not a caliper, pads, or a rotor; it's not taking the brunt of the heavy work.
  • 4 1
 I’ve ridden my DHR evos for 2 years now with 15ish park trips, including multiple day trips and a week at killington. Never had to replace a master cylinder.
  • 3 0
 @Keegansamonster: Yeah, I am not sure if TRP dude was trying to just push the idea that those kits are available, but I hadn't heard anyone really needing them. Had two years on g-spec quadiums, and now a few years on DH-Evos. A few bleeds here and there, but nothing major.
Will see if the gold DH EVOs I had on my enduro had the blue pads, but I know the most recent pair of silver ones did. Just started to get a bit of brief howl in the rear after a few months on them. So may be open to the galfers or MTX, or hell just the standard TRP sintered with this 10-pack deal on qbp.
  • 1 0
 @lwkwafi: there’s a 10 pack deal on QBP? Got a link? I’d buy that in a heart beat
  • 1 0
 Agreed. But complete rebuild this early in the season aside, what about replacing the hose because of degraded performance. Is that a thing and I just don't know about it?
  • 2 0
 That just sounds like really bad luck to me. I've had my trps for about 2.5 years now, ive only bled them maybe two or three times. I threw out the resin pads almost immediately though after they KEPT getting contaminated and replaced them with some mtx gold label pads and have not had an issue since. I've done MANY 20-30 minute long steep descents through the chunky pnw forest and the brakes didn't even flinch. obviously they got very very hot but they did not fail nor did they ever even come close to failing. I couldve cooked a steak on my rotors with the amount of heat they were outputting.
  • 1 0
 @lwkwafi: sounds like an industry deal to me. QBP has some good ones for tires rn tho Wink
  • 2 0
 I don’t understand…replacing master cylinder so soon????
  • 1 1
 it's a thing with all brake brands, many just dont let you do it....some brakes even come with the feature from new(shimano, wandering bite point)
  • 1 1
 I think it’s a racing thing, I remember hearing teams going though multiple chains a day at race. I think one team was doing new pads almost every time them came in pits. Also seems like most of them get shocks a fork serviced almost every race. They want to have the best possible freshest setup at time to try and eliminate possible issues.
  • 2 0
 Can I use these rotors with my sram rsc brakes?
  • 1 0
 absolutely hated the blue pads, its almost like the blue paint contaminates the pads...Galfer/mtx work amazing.
  • 1 0
 cage match... TRP vs Sram... TRP breaks Srams face and dances on their grave.
  • 1 0
 i'd love to know why the RS01 rotors sucks with trickstuff pads, those pads increase power on every rotor but this one
  • 1 0
 I love mine. Best brake for me. Thumbs up!
  • 1 0
 so chunky. need tighter molds and more CNC time. same with hayes.
  • 1 2
 Love the look of those 220mm rotors, I guess they'll be around the 300g mark though.
  • 8 0
 If you're running 220 rotors you're past the point of caring how much they weigh
  • 1 0
 @Bro-LanDog: uh, um, well shit he's right!
  • 1 0
 I love brakes







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