Failing the $2,000 Bike Challenge - Opinion

Jan 25, 2018
by Mike Levy  
Mike Levy


"Bikes are so damn expensive these days,'' my buddy said to me with much more than just a tinge of angst in his voice while we poked through a local shop. ''Really, $8,000 for a freak'n bicycle isn't right. We're being fleeced,'' he went on before going down that ol' 'I can get a motorbike for that much money yadda yadda yadda' spiel. He's completely on-point, of course; he really can get a decent motorbike for that price. He continued his rant by saying the obvious; that a fancy Santa Cruz, Trek, or any other high-end push-bike costs around the same as a decent motorcycle but doesn't even include an engine, which leaves the taste of getting ripped off in his mouth.

Raise your hand if you've heard that tired comparison before, and now raise your other hand if you also get that same odd aftertaste. I bet a lot of you have both hands in the air right now.

I disagreed with him, however, and made the argument that the old motorbike vs. mountain bike comparison is silly, but not because of cost scaling or manufacturing quality and quantity, or even because one has an engine and the other doesn't. Instead, I think he's wrong because value is a subjective metric when we're talking about toys, which is exactly what these things are. Just like nearly everything that we buy, some people are willing to pay more or less depending on what the product means to them and what it'll do for them.

While I'll concede that the above is just my (correct) opinion, I then made this point to him: if you want, you can spend much, much more on a mountain bike than you could have ten or fifteen years ago but, at the other end of the MSRP spectrum, you're getting a hell of a lot more bike for your buck... I think.

And, because everything in my life has to end up being some sort of silly competition, he countered by challenging me to build a proper, trail-worthy mountain bike, a bike that I'd actually want to ride most days of the week for a few years, all for $2,000 USD. The ''want to ride'' part is the important bit; it'd be easy to spend less than half that amount on a bike that's singletrack-ready, but my rig needs to have a suspension fork, dropper post, and a bunch of gears because, well, I guess that I'm soft.


Charge Bikes and Fabric 2018
  It'd be easy to assemble a singletrack-worthy klunker like the inexpensive Charge Cleaver, but I need something with gears and a suspension fork these days.


We ended up at the $2,000 figure because I said that I think it'll take $3,000 to get the job done but then I tried to remember the last time I had a spare three grand laying around and it's definitely never. So we went with a (slightly) more realistic number. And before you go off to type out a comment about how I'd be better off buying a complete bike, keep in mind that'd be too easy and that I don't want to buy a complete bike because then I couldn't write this rambling op-ed. In case it wasn't obvious, Ramen noodles are my number one ''nutrient source,'' and $2,000 is still a metric shit ton of money to me so, at the risk of raising the ire of many LBS diehards, I'll have to do my best to stretch my make-believe coin out by doing my theoretical shopping online. I'm building my $2,000 dream bike here, remember, and that means sniffing out the best deals.

This should be easy, I thought. $2,000 is more than enough money, I thought.

Because I want my machine to be shiny and new rather than save money by buying used but end up with a bike that looks like it's had a train run on it, I'm going to choose a hardtail frame with geometry that I like rather than a pricier or used full-suspension frame sporting similar numbers. Remember, when it comes to numbers, geometry is always more important than travel, and that's especially true when the other number - your budget - is on the small side.

Enter Kona's $550 USD steel Honzo ST frame. I'm all about those big wheels, the geometry leans more towards rowdiness than raciness, and while the steel frame is a boat anchor compared to the fancy pants carbon model I spent so much time on last year, my budget doesn't give a shit about weight. I could also save some coin by going single-speed thanks to the Honzo's nifty dropouts, but I'm only a part-time masochist and need gears.

For the stuff that makes me go, it's going to have to be a single-ring setup, and I'd love to get some 11-speed bits because I'm picky about those big jumps between gears. I found a complete Shimano SLX 1x drivetrain online that ticks all those boxes, and it's going for a pretty reasonable $224.99 USD on CRC. I don't need to spring for a guide (I hope) thanks to the clutch and 'ring design, and the 11-42 cassette and 30-tooth chainring will provide ample range for anything I don't want to walk up.

Next up: some sort of suspension fork. It'd be easy to blow half my budget on something fancy, but I'll need to show some restraint because I'd also like my bike to have wheels. Wheels help. Now, suspension companies seem to keep a pretty tight leash when it comes to online sales, but I did manage to find a current year RockShox Reba RL for $500 USD on Jensen that makes a lot of sense. I'd pick the 120mm-travel option, sans remote, and call it a day. I'm not a big guy and can get away with 32mm stanchions, but this is one component where I could see heavier people (#healthyateverysize) wanting something burlier.

So now I have a Kona Honzo ST frame ($550), an entire SLX 11-speed drivetrain ($224.99), and a Reba RL fork ($500); grand total so far: $1,274.99 USD. Eesh, this is more difficult than I expected. Next up is finding me some inexpensive but wide wheels, and a dropper post that won't break my budget or break itself. For the latter, I'm going to take a pass on the really inexpensive ones and go for X-Fusion's $199 USD Manic dropper with 150mm of stroke. I know how reliable the Manic has been and that's worth the extra money to me.

Wheels... this was a hard one. In an ideal world, there'd be loads of 29'' wheels that use a 30mm wide aluminum rim and sell for around $300 USD, but that's too much to ask, it seems. And yes, if I had a bigger budget, I'd direct more moola towards wheels as they have a big say in how a bike performs. My solution: DT Swiss' M 1900 Spline 30 wheelset sports a rim that's, you guessed it, 30mm wide internally, and Bike24 has a set on clearout for 274,90 € that translates to roughly $330 USD. They're pricey for my budget but everything else is too skinny (#healthyateverysize).

Uh oh, that puts me at $1,872 USD (without factoring in the government's cut), and I'm still missing any of the running gear that I'd also need. I'll probably require a stem, handlebar, grips, tires, and on and on, but I'll have better luck at crushing Richie Rude at deadlifts than I do of finding all of that for my remaining $128.

Thankfully, there are a handful of decent complete bikes that you can pick up for around $2,000 USD that are essentially ready to shred right off the showroom floor, which wasn't the case ten years ago. For that amount of money, you can find a bike with fun geometry, pretty good tires and running gear, a decent suspension fork, and even a dropper post. And that's a good thing because it looks like I failed the '$2,000 bike challenge' by a country mile. I admit defeat on this one, and I also have to admit that while I'm not surprised, I am kinda bummed that I'd have to part with well over $2,000 USD to piece together a burly, BC-worthy hardtail that won't fall apart after a hard year of use and that I'd want to keep around for a long time. Now it's your turn.

So, there you are with $2,000 burning a hole in your fanny pack but every complete bike that makes sense is out of stock. That means that if you want a mountain bike, your only choice is to piece it together a trail weapon for your needs... could you assemble a bike that you'd be happy to ride for a few years? And what would that bike look like?

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305 Comments
  • 298 14
 Good read but if I had $2000 to build a bike I would go to the YT website and buy the 2017 Jeffsy 29 for $1949.
  • 54 108
flag loopie (Jan 25, 2018 at 10:44) (Below Threshold)
 Cool story.....if we were talking about which complete bike to buy
  • 70 5
 I'd probably do the same if I was buying complete, which obviously makes more sense.
  • 65 72
flag RedBurn (Jan 25, 2018 at 11:08) (Below Threshold)
 Buying a new is so damn c*nt...! In belgium the ATV is 21% can you imagine ???? 21% of the price you pay directly goes for the state... f*ck it!! On the SECOND HAND MARKET with 2000$ you have a 2 year old bike that was worth 6000$+ new.... THIS is a good deal. Don't be a victim of the industry by buying new
  • 112 9
 @RedBurn: ??? have you think about what we do in Europe with all that taxes???
Go to the States and get a broken bone to find out... jeeez. You'll rather to fly straight back to Belgium with a broken femur than pay for just an ambulance ride.
  • 22 7
 @ismasan: good point about healthcare, I have to say that since I'm a mountain biker, I went at least 10 times to the hospital in five years, and I always recovered quite well. Cant complain. But still, it doesn't change anything when it comes to buy a new bike: you just wanna have the best deal for your money and for that, the second hand market is without a doubt so much better than the "new" market. Smile
  • 20 2
 You are totally correct here. The primary purpose of the challenge was to prove that you didn't have to spend outrageous money on a bike you would like to ride. I don't know how that turned into building one up from scratch. Imagine what would happen to the price if you tried to do the equivalent with the motorcycle in the comparison!
  • 13 22
flag mergleman (Jan 25, 2018 at 13:23) (Below Threshold)
 @ismasan: a effing men! I hate living in the states
  • 15 10
 @RedBurn:
"Don't be a victim of the industry by buying new"
You mean a victim of the state right? Your second hand market is thriving because your government has their hand in your pocket on new purchases.
  • 10 0
 @humanpowered: Can people go that route with a dirtbike? Sounds like a silly question but I honestly don't know.
  • 20 1
 @mergleman: Then why don't you move? Honest question.
  • 35 68
flag Pro29r (Jan 25, 2018 at 14:10) (Below Threshold)
 There's no room for socialists in mountain biking.... Every innovation is driven by demand and us will willing to pay. Socialists don't innovate they suck people like me dry to pay for a nanny state here in CA.
  • 8 4
 @mergleman: then move. This is about buying a $2k bike.
  • 23 1
 @mikelevy: You can build a Harley from catalog parts, but that's about it. No one makes aftermarket frames and engines for modern dirt bikes, so you just buy the whole bike and modify to taste. An aftermarket fork costs $5000+, so you better have big money if you want to bling out a dirt bike.
That said, I bought my first dirt bike, a used 2005 Yamaha YZ250 for $2200 and it was a great bike. If you are a decent mechanic, dirt biking and mountain biking are similar in cost. If you pay for all your service, then dirt biking costs a bit more, because dirt bike mechanics are paid more appropriately, while good bicycle mechanics are currently underpaid. Cheers.
  • 17 2
 @ripplemuncher: You're so right about this one:
"dirt bike mechanics are paid more appropriately, while good bicycle mechanics are currently underpaid."
(Off topic rant)
  • 4 0
 @mikelevy: thanks for that! my gf bought an all mountain bike to go with her dh bike last season. a last year's trance 2 for 1800 out the door brand new. they even tossed in a dropper post for free ! it's doable. if your ok with a basic get the job done ride.
  • 3 1
 @mikelevy: Now a days it is so, so much cheaper to buy complete. Having 20 years in the industry, most all my bikes were all custom, no question; wheels especially. In the last 4-5 years shit has changed. It is so crazy how much a frame up build is in most cases these days. And for your article; most of that 2k goes into frame and fork as a build. Not even retail pricing sometimes!
  • 5 1
 @mikelevy: I’d try support my local bike shop and see what deal they could get me by getting the frame and all the parts through them ????
  • 8 14
flag naptime FL (Jan 25, 2018 at 21:43) (Below Threshold)
 @shakeyakey: then you'd be a mug. 99%of the time your lbs is getting stuff from the same place online sites as you can
  • 5 2
 @RedBurn: I don't get why so many people downvoted this comment.
  • 3 1
 @mikelevy: Nope!
Also, many many parts on a dirtbike are specific to at least the manufacturer if not the model so it's OE price (or specification at least) or nothing on spares. We might moan about multiple 'standards' in cycling but actually we've still got it pretty good!
  • 4 0
 @RedBurn: I think that modern trail/enduro bikes are too unreliable to buy second hand. I've broken two frames this year, one I bought new and the other I bought second hand. I know which one I was less unhappy about! On the other hand, my Glory is second hand and I've heaps of faith in it. Seems to me that people are basically riding DH tracks on trail bikes these days and that the rear triangles are exploding all over the place. I'd be wary of buying one second hand again for sure.
  • 4 0
 @RedBurn: nice C bomb. Plus I totally agree. Nowt wrong with a second hand steel HT frame. I got mine in 2014 and its still kickin ass
  • 2 0
 @fartymarty: I bought a 2009 giant trance in 2013 and it s still rockin hard !!! recently bought a 2007 yeti 575 for almost nothing ! Smile
  • 4 0
 @makripper: The Trance has the Maestro suspension, at $1800.00, that's a lot of bike!
  • 1 0
 @MrDiamondDave: I’ve noticed this as well. Couldn’t agree more
  • 7 1
 @ismasan: Bang on the money. Crashed on my bike in Nov. total medical bill for one day of treatment was $24,000! Didn’t even want to go to the hospital. Went to work the next day. My wife insisted that I go. And she drove me. No ambulance. So yeah our medical system is completely effed. But Americans hate paying taxes.
  • 4 2
 @Pro29r: move to Alabama or one of those types of states where “Freedom” reigns.
  • 6 0
 @RedBurn: I went to the hospital for some chest pains, few tests later turned out to be a lung infection. Even after my health insurance, I owe more than $2500 in hospital bills. Shits absurd.
  • 1 5
flag sinatorj (Jan 26, 2018 at 7:14) (Below Threshold)
 @mergleman: Thank heaven s, you are not a necessary part of society. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you wouldn't be missed.
  • 5 0
 @fattyheadshok: @Skurploosh : f*cking hell, sorry to hear that, is totally nuts how they rip you off. Here, you go to a private clinic for an x-ray and it cost just €50, or €300 for a MRI.
I remember in Bill Maher's Fb a video about how hospitals charge $500 for an IV bag they buy at $1 each, nursing and diagnosis costs apart, just the bag. The coments were even craizier, with people comenting how in some palces they charge $3.5k/mile for ambulances, and even people defending the whole system.
  • 1 0
 @mikelevy: I don't know about a dirtbike. You can with street bikes, but the price goes way up. My point was if you are trying to prove that you can buy a good bike on a reasonable budget you don't stack the deck against you by making a bespoke build.
  • 2 0
 I'd go on pinkbike and find something amazing on their buy sell trade
  • 2 0
 @nojzilla: That is true that lbs are forced to get some stuff from online retailers because it’s cheaper than it costs from their own suppliers. That said I’d still give them the chance to be competitive as I believe in supporting my local business, trying to keep them in business and because you never know when you might need them. #theinternetcantfixyourbike
  • 4 2
 @shakeyakey: #dontneedtheinternettofixmybikeimperfectlycapablemyselfthanx

Two lbs in my town an they're both shit, drove 60miles to a 'reputable' lbs to fit the internal cable an brake hose to my new frame, they did a bodge job of the hose an left me with a shitty brake bleed. They failed on the gear cable..
Got home expecting a bitch if a job an did it in 10 minutes.....
This lbs owner has a brand new off the forecourt custom transit, got a scratch on it so is now getting a brand new ranger crew cab an box trailer.....
Yet constantly whines about online retail and hash tags support your lbs.
Not saying all are bad, but good ones are very few. An I'd rather buy the tools for money of repairs, let's face it bike meching isn't that hard.
  • 1 0
 @nojzilla: ditto here in Surrey. There are one or two good ones but I would rather understand my bike and do it myself.
  • 8 8
 @Catsick: Not to be a c*nt or anything, but there's a reason for bike mechanics being under paid compared to real mechanics, it's because bicycle mechanic isn't a real job.
If you own a bike, you should be capable of doing all services on your own, it takes very little skill to do a good job.
Diagnosing a vehicle with an engine and a shit ton of electronics actually requires some knowledge and skill.
  • 3 0
 @nojzilla: again you’re not wrong about bike mechanics being difficult, but do I want to go out and buy my own headset press for the amount of times I change frames.. not really. Have I had my ass saved by grabbing something I need the day before or even the day of a ride by a lbs.. yes.
Sounds obviously like you’ve had bad experiences with shops near you, but there are some amazing local shops out there and I can 100% tell you that the owners aren’t in it for the money (or lack of). I’ve made some great mates, met some awesome riding buddies and discovered ace new trails all thanks to supporting local bike shops and hopefully will continue to do so.
  • 1 1
 @RedBurn: Do you buy second homes, clothes and sandwiches too?
  • 3 1
 @gossman: I m 22 so not buying a house any soon. But if i were to, aren't most houses "second hand" if someone already lived in it before ? Big Grin for food and clothing good joke! well, bike gear, yes Wink
  • 2 0
 @AlanMck: here are some more mountain bike appropriate alternatives to "heaps of faith":

"Gaps of faith"
"Doubles of faith"
"step downs of faith"
"step ups of faith"

or maybe for your enduro frames you've got "tabletops of faith" if them Wink
  • 1 0
 @mikelevy: There is a very healthy second hand dirbike market out there depending on where you live. Just like any second hand purchase, the trick is to not buy a clapped out bike and sink more money than it's worth in repairs, but just like the MTB markets there are plenty of guys who buy a bike every year and upgrade when the new bikes come out. If you are patient you can find screaming deals on second hand dirt bikes.
  • 1 0
 @ismasan: Stack your motorcycle on the race track, get the VIP treatment with backboard, cervical collar, trauma center and CAT scan. Find out you have a mild concussion and a separated shoulder.

Have a heart attack two weeks later when your $30,000 bill arrives.
  • 1 0
 As a former bike mechanic... I completely agree.
  • 1 0
 @employee7: Move where? Someplace with no taxes and no government? So... Antartica? Then a phat bike would be more the order of the day. Except it wasn't...
  • 1 2
 @makripper: Awesome. But this guy didn't want "basic get the job done". He wanted a bike that he actually wanted to ride for the next few years, iirc... And that's the point - yes, you can get a klunker, but building a bike up from parts is another story. Like the one by the OP, for instance...
  • 1 1
 @shakeyakey: Good idea. Unless you live in the u.s.... My experience is that people here (us) don't have the work ethic & willingness to assist you with something like that...
  • 1 1
 @Ryanfitz81: I up-voted THIS comment ;-)
  • 1 0
 @LeftHandYogi: He didn't say he hated it because there was a government and taxes. He just said he hated it and I wondered why. I'm continually amazed by this generation of people that hate their lives but are impotent when it come to making a change. If this was a ham fisted way to make a bad "phat bike" joke then try harder.
  • 1 0
 @LeftHandYogi: lol I don't think anyone considers it a clunker. Its msrp is 3k and has a sweet build. You really add nothing to a conversation
  • 63 0
 I did it.

I built up a Chromag Rootdown for $2500 Canadian, which is a just a touch over $2000 USD.

Most of the parts were brand new take off's and some were barely used parts. They all came from the Buy and Sell. Took me about a month to get all the bits and put it together. I have a Pike, X1/GX drivetrain, Guide RSC brakes, Stan's wheels and a Reverb. I can't say I will ever buy a complete bike again after doing it.
  • 6 0
 I got a used one for $2000, and it's the bike that I'll ride until it breaks, then I'll get another one. So much fun! The majority of the parts that came on it were new, or almost new, Pike DA with 6 rides on it, new in the box RF Turbine Cranks, brakes.
It's the bike that never broke down last year. I've only had to replace the wheels once in 3 years!
  • 4 0
 @saintjimmy: this makes me so happy just bought a used rootdown frame off of buysell to build up with spare and used parts... You've justified my decision, thanks haha!
  • 4 0
 @saintjimmy: I've taken mine all over, including down to Australia. I'd rather ride it than any other bike I've ever owned. The only thing I've had to replace is tires and brake pads because I keep wearing them out.
  • 3 0
 @Leafs1: you won’t be disappointed. These Rootdowns handle everything you can throw at it, and more. Such a fun, capable bike!!
  • 2 0
 I've been searching the buysell for an xl rootdown frame for months. And that's exactly my plan to build one up with all buysell parts and whatever closeout deals at crc I can find to get an awesome hardtail under $2500.
  • 4 0
 So I keep a bike stored out of town (I run trains to a different town and spend lots of time there and they have awesome trails) and I wanted to build a bike that didn’t cost too much since it’s stored at the hotel. I started with a 2011 Cove STD frame and built it “light” and with gearing so it can climb. I have a Fox 36 and a Rockshoxs DebonAir on it and a 2x10 drivetrain. I genuinely love the thing. Total cost was $1300 and weight is right at 37lbs. Even though I own 3 higher end bikes and I find it surprising how much fun I have riding my Cove. Price be damned sometimes it not all about how much you spend.
  • 1 0
 Well it depends, if you're the guy who don't give a shit and break stuff with ease. I just bought some used RF Carbon cranks. I only used them for 1000miles for two months now. Last Sunday both inserts came loose. Fuck it now they are dead and I can't get a refund because they are used. If I just bought them brand new I would get a replacement but now I must spend more money if I want the same crank's again. Same story for most of my brake's I bought used, they quickly fainted. I only had luck with factory stuff suspension from fox and complete bike's.
  • 3 0
 My first choice would have been a used Rootdown BA.
  • 55 0
 A metric shit ton would actually be $2,204.62. An imperial shit ton would be an even $2,000, not sure if that helps your cause or not.
  • 43 1
 I would just use the Pinkbike Buy/Sell section. Great deals to be found.
  • 14 0
 THIS ^^^ ALL. DAY. LONG. My bike (yeti sb95) was $1600 (january 2017) and was practically brand new. Why not advocate to piece together a good bike rather than need to buy EVERYTHING new? get a new frame and buy used components. Also, you dont feel near as bad when you break something straight away.
  • 20 0
 +1

Get a good 26er and have enough left over for a stack of minions, a suspension service and beer.
  • 29 0
 Agreed. $2000 could get quite a decent bike second hand. I don't know why anyone would do anything different.

However if everybody could please keep buying new bikes, not using them and selling them at a splendid price then that'd be grand!
  • 2 0
 Agree. I get a ton of New/Used stuff that are take offs or change of plans for big discounts. Mike you could had a Pike over the Reba for the same price.
  • 2 0
 @jbutland: Yup, I know. But I wanted to try to do it with new parts.
  • 4 0
 @mikelevy: Good write up. I think $2000 is a tough price point if you are going for something that you WANT to ride everyday. I just built a Honzo (ep1.pinkbike.org/p6pb15554678/p6pb15554678.jpg) which fits that bill but still went to $2800 with a few parts from my shelf and good prices from my LBS.
  • 4 0
 @mikelevy: as a guy who ride $9k bikes as a job, you might not be too used to surf the interwebs in search of mid range parts deals.
I think it could be done Smile
  • 1 1
 @warhorse: Yeah, I think I would have ended up right around that price if I finished the build. I'm kinda disappointed that I needing way more than $2k to end up on something that I'd WANT to ride.
  • 2 0
 @ismasan: It was learning experience haha
  • 9 0
 @ismasan, @mikelevy: completely doable new (if you make a few concessions). As a tall man, I much prefer 29 myself, but there is a huge amount of 27.5 parts available much cheaper. I just spent 20 minutes browsing Jenson and CRC ONLY and came up with a bike that would be a blast to ride, durable, and cost a total of $1,735. One. Thousand. Seven. Hundred. And. Thirty. Five. Dollars. That leaves over $250 for other cycling accoutrements!

NP Scout 275 frame ($350)
Fox 34 Performance ($340)
WTB TCS 27.5 ($380)
Shimano SLX drivetrain and brakes ($375)
Dropper: KS eTen lever (which I happen to like and have had good success with - YMMV) ($100)
Saddle: Charge Spoon ($25)
Bars: RF Chester ($50)
Stem: Hussefelt ($25)
Grips: Velo Lockon (cause budget) ($10)
Tires: WTB Vigilante ($80)

Of course, many of these parts are on a rotating sale so you would have to be in the right place at the right time. But if you spent a little more time looking, and expanded your purchasing sites to a few more retailers I figure you could shave another $100 off.
  • 3 0
 @MortifiedPenguin: Nice shopping. Need to add a headset and pedals to that? Also not sure if drivetrain comes with BB or shift cable and/or housing. Brakes have discs included, and adapters? Will also need either tubes, or tubeless valves and sealant, and maybe a roll of gorilla tape? Those little things that always get you when you come to build from scratch.

Edit: Okay checked, SLX kit comes with BB and discs. Nice! Those other small bits still needed though.
  • 1 0
 @Hwulex: Kona Wah Wah composite ($40), Brand X headset ($25), and I bet if you asked really, really nicely (read: bring treats) your LBS would hook you up with some sealant and valve stems. I've also had good success making my own for cheap.

Still have money left over.
  • 4 0
 @MortifiedPenguin:

Don't forget to add $500 Time pedals. Oh and maybe a headset.
  • 2 0
 Well it depends, if you're the guy who don't give a shit and break stuff with ease.

I just bought some used RF Carbon cranks. I only used them for 1000miles for two months now. Last Sunday both inserts came loose. f*ck it now they are dead and I can't get a refund because they are used. If I just bought them brand new I would get a replacement but now I must spend more money if I want the same crank's again.
Same story for most of my brake's I bought used, they quickly fainted.

I only had luck with factory stuff suspension from fox and complete bike's.
  • 2 0
 @mikelevy: It would have made for a better article if PB gave you $$$ and let you build and ride it with some long term reports.
  • 3 0
 @mikelevy: thats just because you get to ride $10,000 bikes in all your reviews. You my friend have had your perspective skewed more than most of us. Its like Tom Brady trying to date the hottest chick in your town, he still is likely to be rather unimpressed.
  • 2 0
 @MortifiedPenguin: That's a good start, but where a new build really gets you is all the little extra bits.
I've built a few from frame up and things like headsets and spacers, pedals, post/IS brake adapters, tubes or valve stems, tape - it all adds up. I'd say you need to budget another 100-200 for all the little things you never think about when you're riding.

Plus building a bike is an excellent excuse to buy seldom-needed but essential tools (bearing press, crown race & star nut setters, hacksaw guides, etc) - there's 1/2 your budget!

My strategy is to find a good deal for the essentials that works together: frame, fork & wheelset, then kit out the rest with bargains. For value builds your Shimano kit is a no-brainer, though stepping up to the m8000 series is a potential upgrade (may shave a few bucks off the tires?)
  • 1 0
 @fartymarty: I can't imagine PB would actually spend $ and buy a bicycle - the constant carousel of expensive, brand-new demos has got to be the greatest perk of the entire business!
  • 1 0
 @plyawn: It does add up, but that's what the extra $250 was for. You know "accoutrements."

I have actually never bought a bike new, or complete. I have only purchased used bikes that I then customize, or build my own from a new/used parts mix. My current trail steed is a Kona Honzo St, MRP Stage, GX, XT brakes, command post, race face turbine cranks, spank vibrocore bars, thompson stem, and wah wah pedals. The crown and glory of this build is the Roval Traverse SL fattie 29 wheels. All that for $2,000!

Used will always be the best option in my opinion. I just wanted to show that a fun, durable, and NEW bike is possible for less than 2k.
  • 1 0
 @plyawn: I didn't think so either but had to ask.
  • 19 0
 On one DeeDar frame £200, Manitou Mattoc Pro 2 £330, Flow S1 Wheelset £284, Gx Eagle Groupset £312, Brand X dropper £100. Finish the rest off with cheap bits from One One. Hell of a bike for the money.
  • 10 0
 Yup, nice selection, especially the Mattoc - so underrated.
  • 3 0
 under $500 for a mattock pro 2 is crazy
  • 1 0
 Where from exactly because I don't see the Manitou that cheap...
  • 1 0
 @clarky78: I saw it once for €350, but not anymore
  • 1 0
 @clarky78: ChainReactionCycles has them For £332
  • 1 1
 @xeren: $392 USD if you live where I do.
  • 1 0
 @dubod22: cool
  • 1 0
 Yeah or just get the complete Deedar and go out riding. Really what could possibly stop you from having a blast on one of these? Yes you get some change for your 2000usd but that's fine. During those two years you're going to break stuff anyway and more expensive stuff really wouldn't have helped. Find out these tires aren't for you, swap them. Breaking a rear mech, get a new one. And there may actually be stuff that was the cheapest stuff out there that easily outlives the two years so that's a bonus. Better take this approach than go fancier to match the 2k and find out that the fancier cranks don't provide any benefit the x01 rear mech survives a collision with a rock just as well as the NX mech did.
  • 18 0
 I buy used 26" bikes for peanuts all day.
After all, 26" is unridable, everyone knows that!
(I actually remind them they are 26" so they don't feel that bad about being low balled)
  • 18 1
 Let me do an article like this. My way. I can build you a 2-year-old or less, AM/Enduro full-suspension carbon framed bike for under $2000. Drivetrain will be new, frame/fork/wheelset will be used...but i guarantee you wouldn't know that by looking at and riding the bike.

I know I can do this because i've done it upwards of 10 times already. I'm working on three right now in fact. Ok technically not exactly because two of them are alloy, but you get the point.

Or, how about my new challenge (one of the 3 I just mentioned i'm working on) - a bike matching the above description, completely free. Yup. It's not magic - buy complete build with enough parts value to offset the frame, sell off all parts = free frame. Buy next build for fork, or wheelset, or brakes, or whatever. Keep going until you have a whole bike. So far i've got a 2016 Uzzi 275 frame, 2018 Rockshox Yari RC, 2017 Flow Mk3 wheelset, all completely free. I've already got the Zee brakes and XT drivetrain located. Time certainly becomes an issue with this approach, that's why I call it a "challenge".
  • 14 0
 All hail our new raven overlord
  • 7 1
 @MortifiedPenguin: Bow to Overload Raven or be banished to the salt mines for eternity.
  • 3 0
 @TheRaven: the one downside to your "free" bike is needing capital upfront to buy the complete. Once you get the snowball rolling though, this is an excellent method. I actually accidentally did this with a car - bought one for $6,000 kept a few parts, sold the remainder for $5,500 and bought another for $4,000.
  • 14 0
 @MortifiedPenguin: Yes there is a whole other side to my story that I left out. I started doing this about four years ago, and it was much more primitive back then. These days I have my own account dedicated to my 'business" (had to separate things out from the family accounts to keep the wife from going insane) in addition to Paypal, and I work within PB, Ebay, and Amazon to find deals, along with keeping a close eye on CRC, Merlin, and Jenson for clearance deals.

I've built bikes for members here, and for local friends. Basically I figured since I have the mechanical ability, physical space, and monetary resources, I would help out guys who really want to get into the sport but just cannot afford the outlay required. But the initial investment was $2000. I parted out a bike that I got a really good deal on, made myself a quick $500, and realized "hey, this could be something". So I just kept going.
  • 6 0
 @TheRaven: That is awesome.
  • 3 0
 @TheRaven: @TheRaven: That is super cool and a good service
  • 2 2
 It does seem odd that the best way to by a frame is to buy a complete bike and sell off the components. Especially with full suspension, buying a frame set costs like 70% of the complete build,and that's assuming the manufacturer even has the option to purchase a frame. I guess the main portion of profits for bike manufacturers are the components. When you figure that suspension, drivetrain, and brakes are basically a duopoly at this point, the crazy prices of bikes starts to make more sense.
  • 6 0
 @huntingbears: But frames depreciate a lot faster than any component on them. Well except maybe tires. Tires are probably worse.

So I buy that two year old, $6000 bike who's frame was $3200 brand new, for $1900 on PB Buy/Sell. Then I sell the fork ($550), the wheelset ($350), brakes ($200), drivetrain ($400), dropper ($150), Bar/Stem/saddle ($120). I now have a $120 frame with shock. These are numbers from one of my recent buys, a 2016 Tracer 275c. I didn't like the shock on that one so I sold it for $180...so right now I actually have $60 towards whatever shock I want, but I'm just waiting for a good deal on something I like to show up.
  • 1 0
 Drool How much would one cost me? Big Grin
  • 1 0
 @TheRaven: How much would one cost me? Big Grin Drool
  • 16 0
 Pretty hard to beat the Nukeproof Scout 290 for under 2k
  • 3 0
 Amen brother
  • 2 0
 Or any crc bike once it hits clearance
  • 1 0
 @vtracer: yeah buddy. 2017 NS Snabb Plus for USD$1600 (ex shipping and duties), cracking bike for that kind of money
  • 1 0
 Hell yeah, my 290 pro is amazing!! Awesome bike. It was $2150 though.
  • 11 0
 "I'll probably require a stem, handlebar, grips, tires, and on and on, but I'll have better luck at crushing Richie Rude at deadlifts than I do of finding all of that for my remaining $128"

Stem: Brand-x stem = $10
Saddle: brand-x cutout saddle: $15
handlebars: nukeproof neutron 780mm width: $30
tires: Maxxis High Roller 2 $88 pair
grips: ODI elite grip pro (my favorites) $23
pedals: shimano M530 $26

total: $192

If you opt for the X-fusion slide instead of the RS Reba (both 120mm) you get an extra $145 to play with. (www.worldwidecyclery.com/collections/suspension-forks/products/x-fusion-slide-29-rl2-suspension-fork-120mm-travel-tapered-steerer-15mm-axle-black)

That'd even let you upgrade to a nicer saddle like a wtb volt at $40.

I think it's doable. (I also live in a state without taxes.... so with taxes you start to run into more trouble.)
  • 5 0
 Good call on the Slide and Brand-X stuff.
  • 4 0
 god bless brand-x for their sane pricing. $10 stem. their 68 degree HA mtb frame is like $170, too.
  • 11 0
 So, ride and love for 2 years... maybe. 1,920.65. Built via Jenson. Hardtail, boost wheels, bitchen color scheme

Specs are:
Chromag Stylus Frame
Tight Yellow, large
$688.00

WTB Asym TCS I35 27.5" Boost Wheelset
Asym I35 TCS 32H / Rear 12X148 Boost
$199.99

SRAM NX 11 Speed Trigger Shifter
Black, Rear, 11 Speed, X-Actuation
$24.99

Shimano XT BR-M8000 Disc Brake
Black, Left Hand Lever, Front
$89.95

Race Face Ride Low Rise Handlebar
Black, 710mm Width
$29.99

Truvativ Hussefelt Stem
Blast Black, 40, 31.8mm, 42 Height
$24.99

Chromag Juniper Saddle 2016
Bright Red
$27.99

Truvativ Hussefelt Seatpost
$28.99

Sunrace CSMX8 11 Speed Cassette
11-42 Tooth, Silver
$63.99

SRAM NX GXP X-Sync Crankset
Black, 175mm, 32 Tooth, No BB
$107.99

Shimano Saint Bottom Bracket
Gold, M810/820 68/73mm
$21.99

Race Face Sniper Grips OE
Red
$3.99

Shimano PD-M424 SPD Pedals
$29.98

Shimano XT BR-M8000 Disc Brake
Black, Right Hand Lever, Rear
$89.95

Shimano SM-RT56 6-BOLT Rotor
180mm, SM-RT56M
$12.99 x 2

Fox 34 Float Performance 27.5 2017
120mm, Black, 15X110MM, Pedelec
$339.99

WTB Bridger 27.5+ TCS Light 27.5X3.0 Tir
$60.95 x 2
  • 2 0
 Would you need to have those forks revalved for not riding with pedal assist? You may also need some small parts like chain, (qr) seatpost clamp etc but you'll probably manage below 2k. Yeah I also think my DMR hardtail is well below 2k but it is hard to calculate as components are bought over so many years. I think that's the other thing to keep in mind. Even though changing standards are messing with compatibility, there will always be quite some stuff you can transfer to your next bike so it is not 2k spent on two years only. Sure there will be component wear and maintenance but that would have gone for the motorcycle too. I can't look into the future but handlebar, stem, cranks, brakes etc haven't really changed their interface over the past decade. Though I understand PB editors only started to ride short stems in the past few years, the Truvativ Hussefelt stem has been very common and was probably already a mainstay about fifteen years ago.
  • 1 0
 @vinay: This is key. I just built a 2016 new in box S-Works Stumpjumper frame up for less an $3000 out of pocket not including parts on hand from another build I was replacing. The frame is the same geometry as the current year except for the non-boost rear end. Because of that, I got it for $1799 from my LBS. I then bought a pair of Flow MK3's laced to Hope Pro4 hubs from Colorado Cyclist for $520. Holy crap, a non-boost DVO DIamond is available from Jenson for $599! Schwing! All the rest of the parts came from my last bike. 2 year old 1x10 XT groupset, Nukeproof bars and stem and a Fizik saddle. Last bike was longer so luckily the hoses only had to be trimmed and not replaced. Frame came with a dropper. We are looking at $2918 for a dream bike (for me). It took me a while to source all the parts, but it's worth the wait. My point being, if I hadn't of had parts on hand already that don't really factor into the immediate cost of the bike, this would have never happened.
  • 9 0
 The level of positivity and enthusiasm in the comments shows how much this article resonates with and speaks to so many of your readers. We’re the ones who live in reality and are just regular folk who love mountain biking. We buy and ride what we can afford, which are clearly not your $8,000 super bikes.
  • 3 0
 I think it is more that someone who pays 8k for a bike doesn't have time or care to comment on PB...us dirtbags on the other hand...
  • 11 1
 A good Hardtail doesn't need anything made in the past two yrs to be a fun and durable bike...Frame under $300...26" wheels on clearance...2x groupo on clearance...etc....
  • 1 0
 This.
I bought a PP Shan (the new one). X Fusion Slant RL2 for 200€ (new!) and installed all my old SLX stuff and wheelset from my old bike.
The SLX stuff is over 3 years old and still running strong.
I know I wont be faster with 1x11/12 or some Kashima stuff...
  • 6 0
 I think that both of my mountain bikes are under 2k USD. The key is not paying msrp on new stuff, buying expensive parts used, keeping functional stuff around forever, and learning how to build a bike from parts. It's totally possible, but you have to be fairly disciplined about it.

Examples:

Chromag stylus (jensonusa), marzocchi 350cr (ebay), flow MK3 on zee hubs (built them), zee/xt 10sp drivetrain (old), m785 xt brakes (used), fox dropper (old), etc.

Scott voltage (rental), fox coil (ebay), boxxer team (pinkbike), flow MK3 on saint hubs (built them), zee drivetrain (old), deore brakes (ebay), etc.
  • 8 2
 The days of building a bike up from scratch, or swapping parts from my old bike to my new frame have become too cost-prohibitive to me (not to mention the increasing number of the parts that won't fit on a new frame). It's a lot cheaper to buy a complete bike than to spec that same bike yourself, even shopping all the sales you can find.

Add in the cost and time of having to research which headset, bb, crank spindle length, seatpost size, seatpost collar size, etc. you need to order to fit said frame (and then to find those available at your sale price, in a color you like), and it's become a lot harder than it used to be.
  • 1 0
 I'll have to chime in on the other side here. I'd rather customize that bike I want and take my time with the build searching out parts that won't transfer on sale than buy a complete bike that I will have to switch half the parts out anyways to get it how I like. I'd rather go custom over time and pay for parts individually than lump sum the cost for a complete bike. I have a two year old XT 1x10 groupset that works fine on my full suspension bike. Brakes actually work better than the current model, I don't have enough sustained elevation to need a dinner plate sized cog out back so a 10 speed is good. That way when I buy parts, I am also looking at technological longevity. Will they be relevant in three years and will I still be able to use them with proper maintenance? Plus part of the fun in sourcing parts is the nerd factor with finding the right art at the right price. That's part of the charm, not a deterrent for me.
  • 5 0
 Honzo st 550
Sram NX 200
Suntour Aion 394
Stans S1 400
Shimano Deore Brakes 80
Shimano SM-RT56 6-BOLT Rotor 20
RF Chester bars 40
RF Evolve Stem 34
RF Chester Pedals 50
Brand X ascend Dropper 110
WTB Volt comp 35
WTB Trail Boss F& R 70
Lizard Skin 494 Grips 9

Total $1992
  • 6 0
 +Giving tour of PinkBike, opens mysterious doors+

"Now folks this is where normal people buy their parts to build bikes, PinkBike Buy-Sell"
  • 4 0
 I personally think the motorbike vs pedal bike argument is pretty valid tbh. you can get a really good used mx bike for about 4000 CAD and make it fully race ready (not supercross) for about 2500 CAD more (tires, susp work, FMF slip on, high comp piston etc) in terms of a DH race bike youd probably spend the same in the used market far more for brand new.But one has infinitely more working/moving parts and Id say the tech in a mx bike is far more developed than DH bikes..
  • 3 5
 Would you say they're more advanced? I work in a multi-sport store where we recently started selling moto gear and we got a KTM 450 for the dealer down the road to display in store. I was really let down by thing. Single pivot suspension, comes in one size, geometry isn't a discussion, the finish work was pretty lame. The controls seemed real cheap and basic, brake levers had brutal ergonomics. I would like to know more about the suspension products in moto are the OEM forks and shocks just super shit, because people are likely to replace them right away or at least spend a bunch on tuning? Or is the industrial design just far more advanced in mountain bikes? The stock fork on that KTM looked like something off a wal-mart bike.

After the years and years of hearing about "I could buy a moto for that" I really expected much, much more. To me it seemed like the goal was the make the thing as cheaply as possible, with the motor costing the vast majority of the product. Even then the motor seemed lame, needs so much damn maintenance. Perhaps I just need to get more involved in the moto scene, but to me the moto seemed expensive for what you got.
  • 3 0
 @bonfire: I would 100%. Unfortunately I would also say that your run down of a KTM is pretty skewed depending on the year. The 2017s 2018s are some of the best bikes around.. the WP AER forks are again some of the best suspension forks on the market right now, you may not like their styling. I think they dont sweat the small stuff because "brake lever ergonomics" isnt something thats really going to affect you unless you are riding at the top 0.00001% level. I think the suspension linkage is basic and universal across the board because they figured it out a long time ago and have stuck with the best formula. Motors dont need a huge amount of maintenance if you arent hitting the rev limitter all ride long. I would say they are far more advanced. The large companies have much more resources to put into R&D and the benefits of producing a genuinely fast bike are much larger (Look at the KTM/Dungey takeover)
  • 1 3
 @acetasting1992:

This was a 2017 KTM. I am not going to take any podium dominance by moto brand to actually mean anything. Just sitting on it, it felt so cheap. The brake levers looked like they had been developed in the 80's, compared to a servo-wave XT lever or a guide RS lever just basic. Lots of the customers we get in complain about arm pump in their races, which seemed like a pretty normal issue that can be solved by a little ergo work. Why are the blades so long? Why do I need to use my whole hand? Surely by now they could have a booster and have 1 finger brakes. Cable actuated clutch? This the 90's?

You have answered my question about the suspension, was curious about that. Like buying high end TT road bikes, they come with $200 wheels as they are destined to be thrown in the trash and a some proper wheels installed.

I am not bashing Moto, I think its a fascinating sport and have huge respect for those who are hitting huge jumps next to someone into a corner. Shit is wild. I just found the bike real basic, lots of steel still being used, limited composite stuff. When I work on a V4 Nomad or a S-Works Tarmac the fit and finish of the product is far superior. That could all be meaningless, but costs money to produce.

The level of competition in Moto is insane, especially compared to mountain biking. We just discovered that training outside of riding is important. Not going to be anymore Brycelands in the downhill unfortunately, but there hasn't been a cowboy (someone who just rolls up to the start line and kills it) in moto in how many years? Imagine downhill racing if there was someone like Aldon Baker.
  • 1 1
 @bonfire: problem is it's a KTM
  • 2 0
 @bonfire: you obviously don't ride Moto. Moto suspension is far superior in action and has much higher demands. Arm pump riding had little to do with ergo. Riding a Moto a speed on a rough track is probably one of the hardest things in the world to do. They build those bikes to perform at highest level from the show room. If they built it like a MTN bike they would break constantly.
  • 1 1
 @prozach215: Clearly I don’t ride moto. Isn’t that obvious, in fact I stated it.

Best in the world by who? You’ve got some of the same brands that do moto playing in both fields.

Like I said I believe you that it is difficult, the commitment level those guys are riding at is insane. No doubt about it.

Weight of the bikes doesn’t seem to have fallen much, if you’re 6’4” or 5’6” you all ride the same bike, which seems pretty weird to me, geometry between enduro and sx bikes seem real similar other than a slightly higher case height.

Parts are all stamped and welded. Very little cnc work, very little advanced manufacturing. You can call it more durable, but I don’t think that is the case.

The demands for a SX bike vs a pedal bike are so different that they aren’t comparable other than they have a similar form.
  • 9 6
 "Thankfully, there are a handful of decent complete bikes that you can pick up for around $2,000 USD that are essentially ready to shred right off the showroom floor" - Could have ended the article right there. I built mine for around $1500.

I'm seeing a pattern on here the last week or so with articles clearly trying to justify the ridiculousness of the pricing of bikes and components nowadays. I get it, the industry has lots of cash flowing through it and companies want to keep it that way. This is called conditioning. It's gradually making incremental changes and upping the price slowly over time, then when $3k became normal, then $4k etc.. so now when people see $8k bikes people think, "wow, that $4k bike is a great deal." When even a $4k bike is pretty silly for the average weekend warrior to spend on a bike.
  • 13 5
 Huh? I think you're digging too deep. I couldn't piece together a bike that I'd want to ride for $2,000, which is the opposite of justifying expensive bikes, isn't it? It's just a fun little exercise to try, nothing more.
  • 5 2
 @mikelevy: Here's how you solve the puzzle -- go to China..

Frame: FS 29er Yishunbike frame from AliExpress incl. shipping and import tax - $532
Fork: X-fusion Slide 29" or RockShox something: $350
Shock: RockShox Monarch on eBay: $200
Drivetrain: Shimano SLX for $385 from AliExpress (crankset, chainring, cassette, chain, brakes, rotors, bottom bracket, derailleur, shifter)
Handlebar: Chinese carbon for $13
Stem: Chinese carbon for $15
Grips: Ritchey WCS for $11
Headset: Token tapered for $25
Wheelset: Look around for deals at $300 pair
Tires: Schwalbe Rocket Ron pair from Merlin Cycles: $65
Shift Cable, Der Hanger, Seat Clamp, Headset Spacers from Aliexpress: $10
Saddle: AliExpress carbon w/ padding: $25
TOTAL: $1931

I know it hurts defecting on your affiliates, but it's how you save.
  • 8 1
 @zdebruine: I cannot think how any bike with Rocket Ron tyres would ever count as a "a bike that I'd actually want to ride most days of the week for a few years".
  • 2 0
 @amrskipro: Ha, those original RRs were so scary. Toilet paper casing that had a pressure window about 2psi wide. Anything outside of that and you were going to die.
  • 3 1
 @zdebruine: Instant death handlebars, instant death stem, instant death seat, instant death tires, maybe instant death frame... Yep, you'll get two years out of that.
  • 2 0
 @zdebruine: The last Chinese carbon bar I saw was in two pieces and landed its owner in the hospital for a week.... no thanks!
  • 4 1
 If bikes were too expensive, they wouldn’t exist. Companies charge what they charge to make a PROFIT. That’s why anyone gets in business and if it isn’t it’s what they need to stay in business. Profit isn’t a bad word or thing. There’s no motivation for companies to make us an über-süper bike or parts if there’s no profit in it for them. It’s not a charity. $8,000 bikes exist because there is a market for them...and $7k, $6k, $5k, $4k, right down to a $799 Cannonade. Let your wallet punch its weight. But if your $2,000 bike doesn’t come with Eagle and a Fox Factory fork, and you don’t want to pay more, you’re gonna need to buy used or on closeout. That’s what I do.
  • 2 0
 If $2k was my budget, I think a used steel HT frame and new, inexpensive parts would be the ticket.
  • 1 0
 @mikelevy: Good plan. I still like a full suspension bike and would search out used. I’ve seen Expert Enduro 29’s for about $2k in great shape. One can also find great deals, flip and work their way ‘up’ if they’re careful.
  • 3 0
 Most people who are putting bikes together are doing it for closer to 1500, and can't have the luxury of buying new stuff. I like the article, though. I feel like you could have gotten that bad boy finished off for the 200 you had left, though.

I just bought the most expensive bike I've ever purchased... $1900 for a 2017 Vitus Escarpe XT on CRC, new. Prior to that I'd purchased 2 bikes for $1500 (1 EP back when I was in the industry - GT Sensor 1.0 my only other new bike ever, and 1 used DH- Moorewood Izimu).

I'm an engineer, in my 30s. So, I imagine I'm probably at or above the median of incomes for users on this site. Sure, I pay a mortgage, and I've got some school loans, but my car is paid for, so really, my monthly costs aren't crazy. This isn't to brag, it's just to set the scene. I don't think I could ever justify spending 4k to 5k on a bike. I don't know how enough people can to have it be the new normal for upper end bikes. It boggles my mind. The thing is- they aren't getting nicer!

My GT was MSRP 3k (again, paid 1500). Full XT, full Fox, Richey/WTB bits, ALU frame.

Now, 3.2k (chalk 200 up to inflation, which adds up) gets you the lowest possible spec Sensor. NX drivetrain, Deore brakes, RS Recon/Monarch. "GT" hubs with WTB/RF bits.

So the same money now gets you downgraded drive train, brakes, wheels, and suspension. Still an Alu frame. What gives?
  • 2 0
 Giant Trance 2 in the US retails for $2850 off the shop floor. Full fox, 1x11 SLX, Dropper, SLX brakes, and it comes setup tubeless EXO highrollers with sealant in the wheels. Bikes come with insane value these days. Trance 3 is $2,350, 1x, dropper, tubeless, RC fork, Deluxe rear shock.

Trek Remedy 8 is in the mid $3,299, gets GX Eagle, Guide Brakes, a Dropper, a Lyric, a Re:Aktiv shock, just add sealant and away you go.

Why anyone would buy a GT is beyond me, poor value, failure prone I-Drive, brutal geo.
  • 1 0
 @bonfire: Failure prone I-Drive? I mean, I don't ride a GT anymore anyway, so whatever... but pretty sure that hasn't been too much of an issue with the last like 3 generations of the ID. Maybe I'm wrong though, I haven't kept expert track of it. The main point of that was comparing like vs. like. What's a 2010 Trance 2 vs. the new Trance 2 look like?

But yes, the Giant is a nice value, for sure. There are good value bikes out there (especially with the emergence of direct to buyer brands who make great products)- I just bought one; but by in large, the cost relative to the value of bikes across the board haven't really improved from 8 years ago. To me, considering there haven't been any truly major advancements in tech (yes, 11 speed works better than 9 speed did; geo has gotten more rider friendly; and dropper seatposts are huge- probably the biggest thing; but a bike from 2010 could still be confused for a bike from 2018 ), the climb in price is not justified.

I'll still buy things, because the only other option is quitting, which I'm not doing. But it's not all that often I feel like "hey, I just got fantastic value for my money, I feel great about this purchase." when I get something brand new. With my newest bike, I feel that way. Maybe that's why there was 8 years between new bike purchases for me (with several used bikes/frames along the way).
  • 1 0
 @phobospwns:
lol nothing has changed, except for everything you posted. Geo, droppers, suspension, clutched 11 speed derailluers, add to that brakes that are useful, rim widths that actually support a tire, suspension platforms combined with suspension linkages that actually do what their supposed to do.

Frame manufacturing alone has improved greatly, bikes last far longer from reputable brands. Frame bearings aren’t roasted in a month.

If you told someone about a 160mm 29’er, with a new fangled post that you could control from the bar, a storage container in the down tube, with 30mm wide rims and a 2.5 tire in 2008, you would have been laughed out of the industry.

Online brands are awesome, but even the traditional brands are packing more and more value into their products. Each year.
  • 1 0
 @bonfire: Yes, all of those things are new- but the technology associated with manufacturing them, that cost has not gone up. You think the tech to fabricate an 11 speed drive train is considerably more expensive than the tooling to create an 8 speed set up? Nope.

Geo: Nope
Suspension: Nope
Derailleurs: Nope
Brakes: Nope
Wider tire extrusions: Nope

The technology should be going down in price as companies become more adept at utilizing their tech. Yes, there's cost associated with R&D, and there's always going to be overhead- space related, maintenance, etc.

We're not talking about small jumps in price, things have gone up considerably, more than what I think is justifiable. Seeing 10k bikes isn't unusual at all anymore. That's crazy.
  • 3 0
 I am sure that @mikelevy knows he can get new and used bikes for cheaper. But, his point is finding a new build that makes him psysc’d to ride for a couple years. Tough thing to do, not just putting the cheapest parts together and voila, a bike. Point taken on the article. Pinkbike has done a great job recently with reviewing parts and bikes that we actually ride, versus just super bikes. Thanks Mike.
  • 2 0
 If I can build a 1500g carbon wheelset for $500 then surely you can build a decently-wide aluminum wheelset for less than $300. Novatec hubs can be had on eBay for $100 a pair, spokes are only a dollar each for regular Champion 2.0, nipples are $0.15 each, and rims can be as low as $40 for something decent. That's well below the $300 range for something hand built and strong.
  • 1 0
 Yup, it'd have to be that route instead of pre-built.
  • 1 0
 @mikelevy: This also excludes the fact the average joe isn't fully capable of building his own wheels and would likely need them built. That blows the budget pretty rapidly on the wheel build.

$100+$80+$64+$9=$263 not going to get a wheelset built for $40. Pre-built is so much cheaper. A $300 wheelset isn't hard to find, especially if not super picky about rim width.
  • 2 0
 Danscomp has Sapim Race double butted spokes+nipples for 50 cents each and they cut them to any length in any quantity.
  • 2 0
 Build a hardcore hardtail for £2k (OK not $2k)
Easy
Just don't be a snob about all the latest tech an standards. Trawl the bay an local sale FB pages for bargains, when some one is selling a set of XT cranks nearly new for £25... Don't be a snob cos they're not the latest model
Easily done
  • 2 0
 Damn, I am rolling around on a bike that cost me $400 to build. I enjoy it, does what I want it to, and its a bike. Sure, it isnt new, doesnt have the latest bb spindle diameter, and the geometry is probably considered whack by todays standards, but its a bike, and I enjoy riding it!
  • 7 5
 every mountain biker and their trail dog knows you can't build a bike cheaper than buying one. (with new parts) This article is just the same old news recycled with a click-bait title. I say shame, shame I say.
  • 6 2
 Frown
  • 4 0
 Yeah it's not cheaper. But damn,it's fun! There's something to be said about having a bike "built" by yourself,and knowing that nobody in the whole world has one exactly like that.
  • 1 0
 The price of bikes can be a lot these days. I’m completely obsessed with mountain biking and wouldn’t give it up for anything ! That said I’ll pay $6,000 plus for my dream ride. What does rub me the wrong way is the industry constantly coming up with some new standard that nobody asked for. And that new standard completely kills what little resale used bikes have.
  • 1 0
 Looking for previous year's models online is a good idea. You dont get the newest and the greatest but you do get a super great deal. And often you can a bike that's the exact same as the "new" year's model without the new paint job. I got a cube stereo 160 for 2000 with 1x gx, a yari, a monarch, and decent rims.
  • 1 0
 I have to say, my 13 year old Turner 5-Spot does a pretty decent job still on the trails and it won't even fetch $1000 I'd bet. Similarly I saw a similar vintage Ellsworth ID for $1300 recently that would also do well. You don't need the latest and greatest to go have fun on the trails.
  • 1 0
 Got my Canyon Strive New as baby born!!! for 1700 usd + tax, including shipping from Germany to Mexico. Directly to my house!!! In amazing blue color, with maxxis 3c, aeffect, guide r, yari, debon air, drop post, manuals, shock pump, tools.... amazing deal i got!!!! under the 2000k
  • 3 0
 I just bought a Cannondale Prophet frame and build it with parts from my other bike. Total worth: less than $500.
Contenment and moderation is the key (to life).
  • 4 1
 low expectations help as well...
  • 4 0
 I had a Prophet! Agreed on the contentment.
  • 3 0
 The thing is, building a FULL SUS bike under 2k is really hard, especially if you mostly want new products only. But with a hardtail frame, it's achievable.
  • 4 0
 What could be more satisfying than to be riding and catch the guys ahead of you on a lot less bike?
  • 3 0
 One of the reasons that I love short-travel bikes so much.
  • 1 0
 Double points when you catch them on a hardtail.
  • 2 0
 Non-biking friends think I’m crazy for spending thousands of dollars on my bikes. They always ask why I can’t buy a bike from Walmart or Canadian Tire lol some people just don’t get it !!!!
  • 2 1
 I built a Chromag Rootdown BA for just south of $1700. Full disclosure, I am a part-time shop tech and I heavily leveraged my EP options. The frame, fork, cockpit and wheels were all bought factory direct through industry deals. I'm a Trek Ninja, so I got my wheels, tires, cockpit through them, I called Chromag and they made me a great deal on the frame and pedals and MRP was extremely generous on the Ribbon. I bought the XT drivetrain and Magura binders at cost through my shop and Wolftooth gave me a break on the narrow/wide.
When I decided I was going to buy a new bike this year, my first choice was a Fuel EX 9.8 through Ninja, but I decided I wanted to keep with the hard tail and spend less than the cost of the Fuel, plus I wanted steel, since I was sick of carbon bikes.
  • 1 0
 You can totally build a full-suspension bike for under $2000, you just need a Chinese frame, Chinese carbon cockpit, and really basic suspension. If you were blind you'd never know the difference. $600 for frame w/ shipping, $100 for cockpit, $400 for wheelset, $500 for fork/shock, $400 for brakes and drivetrain and random parts. All new.
  • 1 0
 I bought my bike brand new from LBS.
2014 troy carbon. Paid $4300 at the time, and within the next year added a few upgrades wich come up close to the 6k range. It is expensive but i still ride the bike and still LOVE it. I plan on ridding it a few more years.

No regrets

would love to build the next one myself and see if i can come up with a ride as fun as my troy for a bit less money.
  • 1 0
 I just put together a SC hightower for about 1700 usd. to be fair, i already had some of the parts laying around and got the frame/fork/wheels on craigslist but id be much happier buying used, especially in a world where a lot of people hardly ride something before selling it off.
  • 1 0
 I just built a new Canfield Balance and I tried to put the best of everything in it and I am sitting @ about 7K right now. Now I started a build of used parts I had and I will build a full DH bike for under 1700 So I am super happy about that.
  • 1 0
 Transition covert, net investment less $2k.
Bought frame, float rp23 and float 36 rlc used for $600. Had drivetrain/wheels from an old build that was $800 but recouped half from selling non-compatible parts. Used dropper for $150. Brand new pedals, cranks/bb, and gx drivetrain upgrade (minus selling old drivetrain) was maybe $300ish with labor. Tires were maybe another $100. Plus miscellaneous maintenance has it at maybe 1700.

The bike isn't top of the line but it definitely rips.
Used is the way.
  • 1 0
 I looked at piecing together a bike after my last bike was stolen and I was looking to spend around $2K on a new ride. I ended up using a corporate discount to buy a 2017 Diamondback Release 2 for $2K exactly (no tax in Oregon). There is no way that I'd be able to do better by piecing together the components on this bike, not to mention the hassle of putting it all together, buying tools for certain operations, etc. It came "Ready to Ride", just added pedals, wheels, stem, and bars and went riding.
  • 1 0
 @mikelevy: I just built up a 2016 kona Explosif for slightly under $2000. It is totally shred worthy, but i had to buy closeout deals online and call in bike shop favors at 2 shops to make it work out for that price. Nice bikes are very expensive, but my goodness they are amazing!
  • 1 0
 Just admit it. Bikes are so expensive because bike company's aren't as good at manufacturing as moto companies. The only one who is, giant, as far as I know is the only one with hydroforming capability which I'm sure they've paid off, but since they have no competition have no reason to lower prices. The administrative machine is still expensive to run, and they can't sell frames for cheap because that's basically their whole product
  • 1 0
 lol what? Every alloy bike is hydroformed. The key with Giant is that they are a manufacturing company first and foremost. They build a huge percentage of the worlds bikes for other brands in general. Few bike brands still own their manufacturing and for good reason, it has brought the cost down and we get far better built frames.
  • 1 0
 @bonfire: that's not true at all. Many frames are still built out if straight welded tubing. And afaik giant builds most of the hydroformed frames for other brands. My limited awareness on the subject is that it's an incredibly expensive manufacturing technology that few in the bike industry own. Am I wrong?
  • 1 0
 @bonfire: also, how has it brought the cost down at 3k on average for a frame?
  • 1 0
 @friendlyfoe: There’s literally hydroformed bikes at Walmart. Norco did their own hydroforming in house in the early 2000’s. I’m sure Devinci does as well.

There are DIY’s for guys who have done some basic hydroforming in their garage using some standard metal work tools and a pressure washer.

The big brands that would have relatively cheaper alloy frames just don’t sell them as frame only. Pretty hard to find a remedy or a trance or a stumpy alloy frame set.

Also have to keep in mind that framsets usually come with a shock and typically it’s the fanciest shock at that.

My Chameleon frame was a grand. Cheap.
  • 1 0
 @bonfire: Good to know. Yeah Giant wont let you buy frame only in aluminum and I'm sure with some others it's the same. Kind of hard justifying selling you a frame for 2000 dollars that cost them 200 to make, but I'm guessing its a case of the cost of running the business on the whole is much larger than the actual manufacturing cost.
  • 1 0
 @friendlyfoe:

Have to develop the product, develop the manufacturing method, invest in the tooling, then actually manufacture it, ship it, insure it, distribute it, sell it through a dealer to a customer. Then stock spare frames for warranty claims, stock spare parts for the frames (links and hardware), offer dealer service. In between all of that is GST and Duty's to be paid.

Then if you want to supply completes, you have choose a build spec. To match price points, customer wants and needs by region. Giant makes something like 50 different Trance models, depending which country they are selling into, all based upon what the market wants and needs from spec to color to price points.

Then on top of that they have to do some marketing to make sure you want to buy one at the end of all this. Pay for someone like Elliot Jackson to go fast down a hill for 4 minutes a week on red bull TV. While we all flock to Vital Team rumors to see who is going where. Pay his mechanic, pay for the travel costs, pay for the UCI World Tour Team License.

At the end of the day they need to pay all the staff involved in that journey and possibly even make a profit.

But yeah, thieving bastards, that thing only costs $200.
  • 1 0
 @bonfire: I don't think you read the last sentence in my post lol
  • 1 0
 Chainreaction. Vitus Sommet, XT 11 speed drivetrain, SLX brakes, Yari RC, Monarch Plus RC3, Race Face cranks, dropper post etc, etc, etc. Under $2000. Couldn’t be happier. It’s easy to ball on a budget these days if do your research.
  • 4 0
 Man those online shops probably got a big boner with all these $2k shopping carts !
  • 2 0
 how bout dont buy a new bike that cost as much as a used car. got my 2013 demo 8 II for 800 looks new. i guess i can thank people who constantly upgrade for no reason for that one.
  • 1 0
 I always set up an excel sheet when I start out on a new build, entering prices and weights so I don't run out of leeway on either goals.

@donpinpon29 good alternative to check by your LBS there are often deals to be had that can't be found on the Internet.
  • 1 0
 That is all very well if

1- you have mechanic skills/knowledge
2- you have the tools to build the bike
3- you don't want a full suspension bike
4- you know where to find cheap parts - and know which standards fit your bike
5- you don't mind to use parts that are out of production and you won't be able to replace when you break them (which in Mtb will be very soon)
6- you get a totally out of date frame which again you won't be able to get replacement parts that brake
7- you are ok with components in daft colours and you don't like how they work/look.
8- you don't read any Pinkbike posts on how your 'old bike' is now crap since the new model with the new standard has come out...

Right!
  • 1 0
 Last month I've build (in Europe):
Dartmoor primal+ 200€ shipped
DTswiss x1900 29" 180€ shipped
Manitou minute comp -used (100€ shipped) - got really lucky on ebay
SLX 11speed group (+used cranks) - 200-ish €
20€ headset
Tires~ 30ish €
100€ more for other minorities (handlebar, front chainring, rotors, adapters...)
I had stem, seat clamp and brakes at home + pedals from other bike

Still missing dropper.
12/10 would build it again!
  • 1 0
 I've done similar for both my builds.
My Nukeproof Mega came in at £1600 - 26" with all new SLX drive train (inc. brakes), Marzocchi 55's and Nukeproof wheelset.

My currently in progress Dartmoor Primal HT should come in around £1200 with new SLX drivetrain (inc. brakes), Marzocchi 350's and Superstar Carbon Wheelset.

Just a case of waiting for those online bargains to crop up.
  • 1 0
 cmon dudes. For 2K nowadays you can build a wonderful carbon 26 xc bike [especially now that all nitwits are dropping them for 29ers].
I built mine having bought the frame for 390eur [look 986, 2011 model, completely new in the box from an online shop, when this came out it was something like 2900 for the frame only] and the rest of the stuff off the classifieds where you can find tons of super components at unimaginable prices [i even got a new unused crossmax sx wheelset [ok 2009 model, sitting at someone's basement for only 300]].
Buy 2nd hand, you can only win at the expense of the marketing victim who buys the new stuff and feeds the big corps as well as the govt.
  • 1 0
 About the motorcycle to mtb comparison. plenty of my friends say that to me. my opinion on this point is that when you spend like 10 grand on a mountainbike you basically get the best of whats available at that point (arguably ofcourse, but youre very near the top). While for motorbikes you need to spend somewhere around 80K to get the best of the best. Its either a top spec MTB or a midrange motorbike.
  • 1 0
 Regarding the motorbike argument: Let's compare like for like.
Aaron Gwin's WC winning replica bike is around $7000
Ryan Dungey's MX and SX winning bike would cost around $70,000 (just in parts)

An entry level mt costs around £500
Just like an entry level MX costs around $5000

My point is that mountain bikes DON'T cost the same as equivelant motorbikes.
Like for like, motorbikes are about 10x the cost
  • 1 0
 Dungeys bike wouldn't actually be that much. You can't even buy most the stuff on that bike. You could get really close through after market for around $15,000-$20,000. A kit Moto suspension alone would cost more than most any MTN bike on the market though.
  • 1 0
 There are good deals out there. You just need to always be on the lookout. Here is my full squish rig! For $2,390
2015 Turner burner V3.1. $950
Rockshox pike dual air $400
Easton haven wheels. $350
Purgatory tires. $80
Xtr cassette $100
Oddessy thunderbolt cranks $110
Sprocket. $40
Xt chain $20
Haven stem & carbon bars. $160
Cane creek headset. $60
Pure v seat. $35
Fortè seatpost. $30
Forte pedals $55
  • 1 0
 Truth is the best way to build is to buy the bottom end of a line up and upgrade parts over the next few years or get the diamondback release and if you don't like the frame swap that out in a year.

aventuron.com/collections/over-1000/products/diamondback-release-1
  • 1 0
 www.pinkbike.com/photo/13558629

$2,600.00 Kona process 153 DL Cherry Picked all built new with the exception of a used Reverb. Lifetime warranty frame. Industry nine Wheels. Schramm carbon cranks. RockShox Pike. Renthal fat bars. It took approximately 2 months of night time internet Couchsurfing shopping.
  • 1 0
 Last year at this time I set out to buy the under $2K bike. I bought a GT Sanction Pro for just under $1400 but it had been beat to crap. I sold it for break-even and bought a 2105 Intense Tracer Carbon with XT components, 2X 10. I had to buy tires and handlebars to make it rideable. It rocks. OK, bring on the Intense jokes.
  • 1 0
 Nice write up, @mikelevy . I also remember having this conversation with a buddy of mine who rode mountain and dirt bikes. I said the prices were crazy. He said yes, but he also said he usually buys an $8000 dirt bike then drops another $7000 on it before leaving the store. I was shocked. But he said it was necessary as it sucks coming up short on a 100 foot table. So yes bikes these days are expensive, but I still think full blown moto race bikes are far, far more money.
  • 1 0
 I could build three or four cheap bikes for that money! I am currently building a singlespeed hardtail under £250. I did get a frame and front wheel for free, but that allowed me to get nicer wheels and parts. I currently have a Marin Bobcat trail frame, a Rockshox Reba (i think it is 2014 or something) DT swiss rims front and rear, Shimano rear hub, Shimano SLX brakes which I got for £10, truativ carbon bars that a dentist cut too narrow (£10), and some random other parts like an FSA seatpost. I don't need a dropper for my local riding (I only have a pump track, some jumps and some XC trails near me).
  • 5 1
 Easy caliber bossnaut and then get a dropper
  • 1 0
 I think there is no way I could do this new but I did manage to build a very park worthy Trek Session 88 using a mixture of online parts and parts from the PB B&S. Bike looked great and was a great ride.
  • 1 0
 Go on Pinkbike buy and sell, find a bike that someone brought for £3000 rode for 2 years and now there asking £5000 for it because they've upgraded the grips (Pedals not inc)...
  • 2 0
 if were going the HT route, id consider a Trek (i know, i know) Roscoe 8 for 1500 cdn and then swap out the fork for something a little more burly than a RS Judy
  • 1 0
 Totally agree, the Roscoe 8 is a steal of a deal for what you are getting. It's actually $1,600 CAD, but that's a great price for a solid budget build.

I would actually be totally happy with the 1x10 11-42 Shimano setup on the Roscoe 7 instead of the 1x11 11-42 SRAM NX setup on the Roscoe 8, but adding only $150 from the Roscoe 7 $1,449 CAD to upgrade to a dropper post, 1x11, upgrade from a coil spring to air spring fork, and upgrade from Tektro to Shimano brakes is a no-brainer.

The Roscoe is easily my suggestion for someone who is looking to get into mountain biking on a budget and really wants a shiny new bike instead of buying used.
  • 1 0
 Or better yet, buy a 1-2 year old gently used bike and pay 1/2 as much as new...I just did this and paid 1850 for a barely used Rocky Mountain Sherpa, would have been 4500 new.
  • 2 0
 Bought a 2000 complete on PB, one year old. Needed a new drive train, 500...and a stem, carbon bar, tires, chain, pedals...holy sh!t i'm into it for 3300 1.5 years later.
  • 9 5
 The Reba is a shit fork and you know it.
  • 7 2
 Huh? For me personally it's a no brainer, best used fork, little money can buy. Reliable and easy to work with. It's a genuine work horse for any short travel fully or any hardtail. Sure, Pike or 34 is bettahz but they cost a lot, even on second hand market, whereas if I want a Reba I get one under 300$ in great condition within 2-3 weeks of checking classifieds. Why would I buy pre 2016 Revelation or something in those ways, while it's nothing more but a Enduro/ trail hyped Reba?
  • 7 0
 Shit? I don't think so.
  • 1 0
 @WAKIdesigns: take a look at the manitou machete. you can get them new for around $300, i would put it on par or better than a reba, and they can be upgraded with a shimmed compression damper for like $70
  • 1 0
 @xeren: Manitou forks sure look tempting. My problem is that if you come with one to a mechanic in Sweden they will tell you to fix parts yourself. Meanwhile they have boxes full of RS parts
  • 1 0
 @WAKIdesigns: That's fair. if you're a DIY'er, though, Manitou forks are really easy to service at home
  • 1 0
 @xeren: I seevice my forks but sometimes I need spares Razz
  • 2 0
 Terrible reliability. Ejecting dust wipers are an issue RS knows and won’t warranty, and it barely has a compression damper.
  • 1 0
 @WAKIdesigns: manitou or RS or fox, you should keep spares with you, so you don't have to stop everything and run to the store to finish the job

just installed new dust wipers? time to buy new dust wipers to have on hand
  • 1 0
 @DrStairs: dust wipers shooting out is an issue of worn out/ dry o-ring around the shaft. As simple as that. If someone can't get his head out his ass and open the fork to lube it once or twice a year (depending how often he rides), he should consider riding rigid. Same with people whining on oil being pushed from damper chamber to outer leg. Most often a result of running too much flood gate resistance/ locked out paired with worn out o-ring. Same with people whining on Chargers needing bleeding. If you want a super reliable fork you don't need to do anything with buy an old Marzocchi and enjoy a ton of metal, too soft coils/ shitty air spring, and no low speed compression what so ever. All you get is service interval of 3 years and a dozen of likes on insta.
  • 2 0
 My two favorite complete bikes under $2k are:

1) SC Chameleon 27.5+
2) Commencal meta ht am (haven't ridden one yet, but looks great on paper)
  • 1 0
 Building up the Commencal HT AM now. So far it looks really good. A little over $400 new for the frame, can't beat that. Was looking at the Chameleon as well, but went with the frame that almost half the price.
  • 1 0
 Fun article Mike. It'd be interesting to see what your total would have ended up with, had you continued and purchased everything (grips, brakes, headset spacers, pedals, etc.)
  • 21 0
 Maybe I should finish off the build, actually buy the parts, and then ride and review the bike? Could be interesting.
  • 1 0
 @mikelevy: Swap out the DT-Swiss for Stan's wheels, and do it!
  • 4 0
 @mikelevy: and then compare it to a stock Honzo AL DR ($1,699 full retail) to see whether steel is real enough to warrant the difference.
  • 2 0
 I bought a 16' Honzo ST frame with the idea of a budget bike in mind... $2600 and my traded 06' Cannondale F600 later, I have my dream bike. 10/10 would do again.
  • 2 1
 i got an $8000+
2015 giant glory advanced 0 for $2200. It was a total steal! It even had brand new fox 40s and like a $150 seat lol. I'm never going to find a deal that good again
  • 5 0
 "It was a total steal!"

It totally sounds like it was.
  • 1 0
 I think going a mix of used and new is the way to go. Bikes are mechanical items, so with a little elbow grease and some know how most things can be serviced back to life saving, probably, half the cost of the new item.
  • 1 0
 The yt models looking more and more competitive/compelling,looking forward to the spec update on the capra or for the new jeffsy to go on sale,f all the other big company big price bs
  • 1 0
 Вы представьте какие дорогие эти велосипеды для нас. В нашей стране это вообще что-то космическое.
  • 1 0
 Picked up a giant Fathom2 for christmas for my son in a size medium. Not a shabby build for 1150 with room to upgrade. Modern geometry and Dropper post with 11-42 10 speed clutch derailuer.
  • 2 0
 This article is catching on to the current climate of the community. We all love riding bikes, but at the same time feverishly loathe the industry that makes them.
  • 1 0
 I've thought that my brand new Diamondback Mission 2 2017 (for $1999 on Amazon) was a big deal... now I'm quite sure! (Fox 36, dps float, full slx)
  • 4 0
 Brakeless?
  • 15 1
 Personally, I'd keep the brakes. And call me crazy but I'd rather have a dropper post than a suspension fork.
  • 4 1
 @mikelevy: Just thought it was odd they werent included, they cost a substantial amount of money and to me, they are one of the most important parts. But with a solid xt setup, after the $90 each set off jenson, you are still stuck with rotors and adapters and you will have to bleed the lines as well, costing around $300
  • 6 0
 @PivotPoint1: I ran out of money before I got to the brakes, but I'd probably go with an inexpensive set of TRP two-piston stoppers or something like that.
  • 2 0
 @mikelevy: but it was more important to get a dropper?
  • 2 0
 @mikelevy: Not crazy at all Mike. Ditch the bouncy bits for chubby rubber in the 2.6-3.0 range and shenanigans can be had all day. Had a few dual 3.0 bikes bitd...heavy back then, but should be fun today with the current tire selections...
  • 2 0
 @laxguy: Than a suspension fork? For sure. Obviously, I'd need brakes but didn't even get close to fitting them in under budget.
  • 4 1
 @mikelevy: You could run mechanical disc brakes like BB7s, which are about $80 per brake including 180mm rotors (about $65 or so per set with 160mm rotors). A set of inexpensive avid levers is $16 plus cables and housing for another $10. So, $160+$16+$10=$186. Hydros are great and SLX is awesome, but mechanicals work fine and cheap and easy to maintain - no bleed kit required.
  • 3 1
 @MisterCouch: I'd avoid mechanical discs unless I absolutely had to use them. I think I could find some closeout hydros for the same price. Maybe.
  • 2 1
 @mikelevy: Why? It sounds like you have a lot of preconceived ideas about what you "need" when in relatively most people are riding around (and having fun) with "less"
  • 1 0
 @laxguy: Part of the build rules were "fun" and "actually want to ride it". Sure, I can ride down anything on cantilever rim brakes(I've done it), but come ride BC and you'll see that brakes are very important Smile
  • 1 0
 @loopie: but he says things like "I'd avoid mechanical discs unless I absolutely had to use them." which makes no sense... You'd rather not have a bike to ride than ride mech disc brakes? (keep in mind no one has suggested cantilever brakes)

or the fact that he NEEDED 30mm INTERNAL WIDTH rims.... Whose ever NEEDED a specific internal width to have fun? In fact I've never looked at the width of my rims but I know they were standard (until this rim craze started), they work, and my bike is fun! (and I'll add if YOU think you NEED them, you're wrong again)

OR maybe the part where he's implying, he cant ride a bike without a dropper and have fun? Try again.


It's just a an attempt to convince the sheeple they need to spend big on a top of the line bike in order to "have fun" and "actually want to ride it"

..but really it's my fault for expecting anything else from a website trying to make a profit.. and none of this is directed at you @loopie you seem nice and reasonable in my experience

I'm going to get off the computer and go outside now, have a nice day Smile
  • 6 5
 If you use your bike almost everyday and you enjoy it who care if it cost 7000 or 8000$ it's just money and youbonly live once f*cking enjoy it
  • 2 3
 Well, starting off, here is a great deal and has the seatpost and shock and frame for USD 599 and comes with a warranty: www.commencalusa.com/frame-meta-ht-am-fork-dropper-post-xl-c2x24298099. You could then put your SLX and brakes and tires, etc. all included for under $2k. So, there you have it, a great bike for under $2k.

But then you are probably not an XL
  • 1 0
 That IS a great deal, but being second hand. I have nothing against second-hand, but it kind of falls outside the "rules" of this contest.
  • 3 0
 I could just run a 70mm stem pointing backwards...?
  • 1 0
 @sixstringsteve: Thanks. I was thinking the same but then why would they sell a 2nd hand and not an old-stock? Is it a bike that was being sold and then changed the frame to a large instead? Usually what all PB buy-sell deals are anyhow.

Yeah, great deal but I do get the point. Have a great day
  • 2 3
 I paid a grand for a slighlty used giant reign so this story is just a load of crap to me. Buy used and find a great deal is the moral of this story!!! No bike should even be close to the prices bike shops and even direct dealers ask for. Just look at hope for instance. How can you slash 2 grand off your bike and still make money? Because despite the bullshit the industry leads you to believe bikes are relatively cheap to manufacture. It all comes down to how greedy a company is. There is no bike out there that is actually worth 10 grand they just slap a rediculous price on it and if it sells then boom Ive watched the price of bikes skyrocket over the years. Sure bikes are better then they were 20 years ago but they aren't worth a 500% mark up from what they were. I remember when $1500 would get you the best bike in the shop now its almost the bottom of the barrel when it comes to buying a quality bike.
  • 2 0
 yeah mike it is definitely do able i think you were just reckless with how you wanted to do it.
  • 2 0
 Agreed. I think my failure is more a reflection of what I think I need to have, which might be worth an op-ed in itself. I don't need a Reba or a dropper post to mountain bike, but I feel like I do.
  • 1 0
 @mikelevy: forsure, and there really isn't anything wrong with that. We all have preferences, honestly the only thing I would have done different than you would have been a brand X dropper instead of a crankbros one. tup
  • 2 0
 If I had £2k spare I wouldn’t drop it on a bike I would finaly be able to afford putting my heating on.
  • 2 0
 you could just get used components off pinkbike for this challenge, thats how i built my bike.
  • 1 0
 I got a 9 month old Banshee Spitfire with Rockshox Pike RCT3, Monarch RT3, reverb stealth, halo wheels and full XT Deore groupset for £1600.
  • 1 0
 FAIL
I bought on 2016 a kona honzo al, it costs less than $2.000
Then came a dropper post (CB highline), GX transmission, Tubeless tires, carbon handlebar....
  • 1 0
 Craigslist, Ribble, Jenson, Pinkbike buy&sell and CRC, along with learning how to lace wheels can save you massive amounts of money and you get lotsa satisfaction
  • 1 0
 With all the deals that must be available to bike industry/media types, I wonder what is the most @mikelevy has spent for a new bike.
  • 1 0
 $7,200 CAD many, many years ago for a Santa Cruz Super 8 with a White Bros fork, original Hayes brakes, and a bunch of other stuff.
  • 2 0
 @mikelevy: Damn, that’s a load of lettuce!
  • 3 0
 PINKBIKE BUY SELL!!!!!! END OF STORY. has kept shredding cheap for years.
  • 1 0
 Also,2k is a good start at Charles Schwab,cause at his rate you’ll need to save for while before the new models from said big brand are affordable.
  • 1 0
 For $2000 I'd much rather get a cross bike than a full suspension mountain bike. There's no better way to scare yourself than navigating a rocky trail in the drops
  • 2 0
 Diamond Back Mission 2.0 2017 - $1899.00 on sale @ Jensonusa.com reg. msrp $4,000.
  • 1 0
 Built my Transition Patrol with Pikes, DT swiss and Zee / XT brakes & groupset for less than 2k. 70% second hand but all in perfect condition.
  • 1 0
 Built a hoped out summum and a foxy for 2000 euro each. Not difficult, you just need to know what you want so you don't have to buy the same thing twice.
  • 3 4
 Like you said, the motorbike vs pedal bike argument is so weak. Unless you ride a motorbike to and from work everyday I can almost guarantee I'm getting more hours out of my pedal bike than any recreational motorbiker.
  • 2 0
 Great idea for an article!
  • 1 0
 @mikelevy I got super exited reading this, because you essentially built my bike! I wanted to build my own for around the same price point, and was just over 2K overall. Finished my build this past October. It's a 16 Honzo ST frame, Rockshox Yari (I'm like 225 so I need those 35mm), X-Fusion Manic dropper, and Shimano SLX/XT drivetrain. I guess great minds think alike, it's a riot to ride!
  • 1 0
 @cdavebolt: Sounds like a great bike - nice!
  • 1 0
 You have to buy used if you want high end parts on a budget. It’s unfortunate but true. Great article though!
  • 1 0
 I agree, building a bike for 2k is tough, off the top of my head a new norco fluid 2ht, could be a option. just saying.
  • 1 1
 Put 2000 down as deposit then pay the rest of your dream build off for the rest of your days , just don’t tell the Mrs!!!

Superbike goal achieved
  • 1 0
 To me, 500 for a new fork is a little overpriced. You can find new for alot cheaper if you look harder.
  • 1 0
 For $2000, i'd probably build a 26" DJ bike and probably ride it more and longer than my Reign.
  • 1 0
 Pray along side Tony Robbins for insight as what to do with the 2k. How to build a 29+ bike w only 2k?
  • 1 0
 to me it looks like eventually spending 3k, but being really happy with the results.
  • 1 0
 Agreed, it'd be around $3k for me as well.
  • 1 0
 I've got around 2 grand each into my trail bike and dh rig, both feel great and rip like hell
  • 2 0
 Easy, Ragley Blue Pig. The bike is quit literally perfect.
  • 1 0
 That is a fun looking bike.
  • 1 0
 KONA Process 134..... however I built a ss Honzo ST on the cheap, and it's one of the funnest bikes I've ever had.
  • 1 0
 Wait for the sales.... never ceases to amaze what you can get when last years line / change in frame colour comes around
  • 2 0
 Enter Pinkbike Buy/Sell classified section to save the day
  • 1 0
 Got my Liteville H3 Hardtail used for 2k. For 2k the Nukeproof Scout is the best thing to go.
  • 1 0
 " Ramen noodles are my number one ''nutrient source,'"

I believe you mean "donuts".
  • 1 0
 Ramen noodles are my number one "donuts"?

I don't think it works that way... Wink
  • 1 0
 My and my mate ride one hardtail and one dh rig. I ride the dh rig uphill and the hardtail down. So enduro
  • 1 0
 YOU BLEW THE F$CKING WAD ON THE FORK. You could have bought a used pike all day for 350-400.
  • 1 0
 Except the idea was to build it with new parts. Obviously, it's easy to do if you go the used route.
  • 2 0
 Tried and failed.
  • 1 0
 id just get a db release or something and keep the rest for upgrades.
  • 1 0
 Got my 16 slash 7 for €2000 in feb 2016 at my lbs no complaints here
  • 2 0
 Just party with the 2k
  • 3 0
 Just $2k worth of electric lettuce.
  • 1 0
 Great idea for an article and well written!
  • 1 0
 2000 freedom units? You could buy a house in Regina for that!
  • 3 6
 @mikelevy burning a hole in a fanny... I am #humbled







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