"Bikes are so damn expensive these days,'' my buddy said to me with much more than just a tinge of angst in his voice while we poked through a local shop. ''Really, $8,000 for a freak'n bicycle isn't right. We're being fleeced,'' he went on before going down that ol' 'I can get a motorbike for that much money yadda yadda yadda' spiel. He's completely on-point, of course; he really can get a decent motorbike for that price. He continued his rant by saying the obvious; that a fancy Santa Cruz, Trek, or any other high-end push-bike costs around the same as a decent motorcycle but doesn't even include an engine, which leaves the taste of getting ripped off in his mouth.
Raise your hand if you've heard that tired comparison before, and now raise your other hand if you also get that same odd aftertaste. I bet a lot of you have both hands in the air right now.
I disagreed with him, however, and made the argument that the old motorbike vs. mountain bike comparison is silly, but not because of cost scaling or manufacturing quality and quantity, or even because one has an engine and the other doesn't. Instead, I think he's wrong because value is a subjective metric when we're talking about toys, which is exactly what these things are. Just like nearly everything that we buy, some people are willing to pay more or less depending on what the product means to them and what it'll do for them.
While I'll concede that the above is just my (correct) opinion, I then made this point to him: if you want, you can spend much, much more on a mountain bike than you could have ten or fifteen years ago but, at the other end of the MSRP spectrum, you're getting a hell of a lot more bike for your buck... I think.
And, because everything in my life has to end up being some sort of silly competition, he countered by challenging me to build a proper, trail-worthy mountain bike, a bike that I'd actually want to ride most days of the week
for a few years, all for $2,000 USD. The ''want to ride'' part is the important bit; it'd be easy to spend less than half that amount on a bike that's singletrack-ready, but my rig needs to have a suspension fork, dropper post, and a bunch of gears because, well, I guess that I'm soft.
We ended up at the $2,000 figure because I said that
I think it'll take $3,000 to get the job done but then I tried to remember the last time I had a spare three grand laying around and it's definitely never. So we went with a (slightly) more realistic number. And before you go off to type out a comment about how I'd be better off buying a complete bike, keep in mind that'd be too easy and that I don't want to buy a complete bike because then I couldn't write this rambling op-ed. In case it wasn't obvious, Ramen noodles are my number one ''nutrient source,'' and $2,000 is still a metric shit ton of money to me so, at the risk of raising the ire of many LBS diehards, I'll have to do my best to stretch my make-believe coin out by doing my theoretical shopping online. I'm building my $2,000 dream bike here, remember, and that means sniffing out the best deals.
This should be easy, I thought. $2,000 is more than enough money, I thought.
Because I want my machine to be shiny and new rather than save money by buying used but end up with a bike that looks like it's had a train run on it, I'm going to choose a hardtail frame with geometry that I like rather than a pricier or used full-suspension frame sporting similar numbers. Remember, when it comes to numbers, geometry is always more important than travel, and that's especially true when the other number - your budget - is on the small side.
Enter Kona's $550 USD steel Honzo ST frame. I'm all about those big wheels, the geometry leans more towards rowdiness than raciness, and while the steel frame is a boat anchor compared to the fancy pants carbon model I spent so much time on last year, my budget doesn't give a shit about weight. I could also save some coin by going single-speed thanks to the Honzo's nifty dropouts, but I'm only a part-time masochist and need gears.
For the stuff that makes me go, it's going to have to be a single-ring setup, and I'd love to get some 11-speed bits because I'm picky about those big jumps between gears. I found a complete Shimano SLX 1x drivetrain online that ticks all those boxes, and it's going for a pretty reasonable $224.99 USD on CRC. I don't need to spring for a guide (I hope) thanks to the clutch and 'ring design, and the 11-42 cassette and 30-tooth chainring will provide ample range for anything I don't want to walk up.
Next up: some sort of suspension fork. It'd be easy to blow half my budget on something fancy, but I'll need to show some restraint because I'd also like my bike to have wheels. Wheels help. Now, suspension companies seem to keep a pretty tight leash when it comes to online sales, but I did manage to find a current year RockShox Reba RL for $500 USD on Jensen that makes a lot of sense. I'd pick the 120mm-travel option, sans remote, and call it a day. I'm not a big guy and can get away with 32mm stanchions, but this is one component where I could see heavier people (#healthyateverysize) wanting something burlier.
So now I have a Kona Honzo ST frame ($550), an entire SLX 11-speed drivetrain ($224.99), and a Reba RL fork ($500); grand total so far: $1,274.99 USD. Eesh, this is more difficult than I expected. Next up is finding me some inexpensive but wide wheels, and a dropper post that won't break my budget or break itself. For the latter, I'm going to take a pass on the really inexpensive ones and go for X-Fusion's $199 USD Manic dropper with 150mm of stroke. I know how reliable the Manic has been and that's worth the extra money to me.
Wheels... this was a hard one. In an ideal world, there'd be loads of 29'' wheels that use a 30mm wide aluminum rim and sell for around $300 USD, but that's too much to ask, it seems. And yes, if I had a bigger budget, I'd direct more moola towards wheels as they have a big say in how a bike performs. My solution: DT Swiss' M 1900 Spline 30 wheelset sports a rim that's, you guessed it, 30mm wide internally, and Bike24 has a set on clearout for 274,90 € that translates to roughly $330 USD. They're pricey for my budget but everything else is too skinny (#healthyateverysize).
Uh oh, that puts me at $1,872 USD (without factoring in the government's cut), and I'm still missing any of the running gear that I'd also need. I'll probably require a stem, handlebar, grips, tires, and on and on, but I'll have better luck at crushing Richie Rude at deadlifts than I do of finding all of that for my remaining $128.
Thankfully, there are a handful of decent complete bikes that you can pick up for around $2,000 USD that are essentially ready to shred right off the showroom floor, which wasn't the case ten years ago. For that amount of money, you can find a bike with fun geometry, pretty good tires and running gear, a decent suspension fork, and even a dropper post. And that's a good thing because it looks like I failed the '$2,000 bike challenge' by a country mile. I admit defeat on this one, and I also have to admit that while I'm not surprised, I am kinda bummed that I'd have to part with well over $2,000 USD to piece together a burly, BC-worthy hardtail that won't fall apart after a hard year of use and that I'd want to keep around for a long time. Now it's your turn.
So, there you are with $2,000 burning a hole in your fanny pack but every complete bike that makes sense is out of stock. That means that if you want a mountain bike, your only choice is to piece it together a trail weapon for your needs... could you assemble a bike that you'd be happy to ride for a few years? And what would that bike look like?
Go to the States and get a broken bone to find out... jeeez. You'll rather to fly straight back to Belgium with a broken femur than pay for just an ambulance ride.
"Don't be a victim of the industry by buying new"
You mean a victim of the state right? Your second hand market is thriving because your government has their hand in your pocket on new purchases.
That said, I bought my first dirt bike, a used 2005 Yamaha YZ250 for $2200 and it was a great bike. If you are a decent mechanic, dirt biking and mountain biking are similar in cost. If you pay for all your service, then dirt biking costs a bit more, because dirt bike mechanics are paid more appropriately, while good bicycle mechanics are currently underpaid. Cheers.
"dirt bike mechanics are paid more appropriately, while good bicycle mechanics are currently underpaid."
(Off topic rant)
Also, many many parts on a dirtbike are specific to at least the manufacturer if not the model so it's OE price (or specification at least) or nothing on spares. We might moan about multiple 'standards' in cycling but actually we've still got it pretty good!
I remember in Bill Maher's Fb a video about how hospitals charge $500 for an IV bag they buy at $1 each, nursing and diagnosis costs apart, just the bag. The coments were even craizier, with people comenting how in some palces they charge $3.5k/mile for ambulances, and even people defending the whole system.
Two lbs in my town an they're both shit, drove 60miles to a 'reputable' lbs to fit the internal cable an brake hose to my new frame, they did a bodge job of the hose an left me with a shitty brake bleed. They failed on the gear cable..
Got home expecting a bitch if a job an did it in 10 minutes.....
This lbs owner has a brand new off the forecourt custom transit, got a scratch on it so is now getting a brand new ranger crew cab an box trailer.....
Yet constantly whines about online retail and hash tags support your lbs.
Not saying all are bad, but good ones are very few. An I'd rather buy the tools for money of repairs, let's face it bike meching isn't that hard.
If you own a bike, you should be capable of doing all services on your own, it takes very little skill to do a good job.
Diagnosing a vehicle with an engine and a shit ton of electronics actually requires some knowledge and skill.
Sounds obviously like you’ve had bad experiences with shops near you, but there are some amazing local shops out there and I can 100% tell you that the owners aren’t in it for the money (or lack of). I’ve made some great mates, met some awesome riding buddies and discovered ace new trails all thanks to supporting local bike shops and hopefully will continue to do so.
"Gaps of faith"
"Doubles of faith"
"step downs of faith"
"step ups of faith"
or maybe for your enduro frames you've got "tabletops of faith" if them
Have a heart attack two weeks later when your $30,000 bill arrives.
I built up a Chromag Rootdown for $2500 Canadian, which is a just a touch over $2000 USD.
Most of the parts were brand new take off's and some were barely used parts. They all came from the Buy and Sell. Took me about a month to get all the bits and put it together. I have a Pike, X1/GX drivetrain, Guide RSC brakes, Stan's wheels and a Reverb. I can't say I will ever buy a complete bike again after doing it.
It's the bike that never broke down last year. I've only had to replace the wheels once in 3 years!
Get a good 26er and have enough left over for a stack of minions, a suspension service and beer.
However if everybody could please keep buying new bikes, not using them and selling them at a splendid price then that'd be grand!
I think it could be done
NP Scout 275 frame ($350)
Fox 34 Performance ($340)
WTB TCS 27.5 ($380)
Shimano SLX drivetrain and brakes ($375)
Dropper: KS eTen lever (which I happen to like and have had good success with - YMMV) ($100)
Saddle: Charge Spoon ($25)
Bars: RF Chester ($50)
Stem: Hussefelt ($25)
Grips: Velo Lockon (cause budget) ($10)
Tires: WTB Vigilante ($80)
Of course, many of these parts are on a rotating sale so you would have to be in the right place at the right time. But if you spent a little more time looking, and expanded your purchasing sites to a few more retailers I figure you could shave another $100 off.
Edit: Okay checked, SLX kit comes with BB and discs. Nice! Those other small bits still needed though.
Still have money left over.
Don't forget to add $500 Time pedals. Oh and maybe a headset.
I just bought some used RF Carbon cranks. I only used them for 1000miles for two months now. Last Sunday both inserts came loose. f*ck it now they are dead and I can't get a refund because they are used. If I just bought them brand new I would get a replacement but now I must spend more money if I want the same crank's again.
Same story for most of my brake's I bought used, they quickly fainted.
I only had luck with factory stuff suspension from fox and complete bike's.
I've built a few from frame up and things like headsets and spacers, pedals, post/IS brake adapters, tubes or valve stems, tape - it all adds up. I'd say you need to budget another 100-200 for all the little things you never think about when you're riding.
Plus building a bike is an excellent excuse to buy seldom-needed but essential tools (bearing press, crown race & star nut setters, hacksaw guides, etc) - there's 1/2 your budget!
My strategy is to find a good deal for the essentials that works together: frame, fork & wheelset, then kit out the rest with bargains. For value builds your Shimano kit is a no-brainer, though stepping up to the m8000 series is a potential upgrade (may shave a few bucks off the tires?)
I have actually never bought a bike new, or complete. I have only purchased used bikes that I then customize, or build my own from a new/used parts mix. My current trail steed is a Kona Honzo St, MRP Stage, GX, XT brakes, command post, race face turbine cranks, spank vibrocore bars, thompson stem, and wah wah pedals. The crown and glory of this build is the Roval Traverse SL fattie 29 wheels. All that for $2,000!
Used will always be the best option in my opinion. I just wanted to show that a fun, durable, and NEW bike is possible for less than 2k.
www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/manitou-mattoc-pro-2-forks-15mm-crc-exclusive-2017/rp-prod158504
After all, 26" is unridable, everyone knows that!
(I actually remind them they are 26" so they don't feel that bad about being low balled)
I know I can do this because i've done it upwards of 10 times already. I'm working on three right now in fact. Ok technically not exactly because two of them are alloy, but you get the point.
Or, how about my new challenge (one of the 3 I just mentioned i'm working on) - a bike matching the above description, completely free. Yup. It's not magic - buy complete build with enough parts value to offset the frame, sell off all parts = free frame. Buy next build for fork, or wheelset, or brakes, or whatever. Keep going until you have a whole bike. So far i've got a 2016 Uzzi 275 frame, 2018 Rockshox Yari RC, 2017 Flow Mk3 wheelset, all completely free. I've already got the Zee brakes and XT drivetrain located. Time certainly becomes an issue with this approach, that's why I call it a "challenge".
I've built bikes for members here, and for local friends. Basically I figured since I have the mechanical ability, physical space, and monetary resources, I would help out guys who really want to get into the sport but just cannot afford the outlay required. But the initial investment was $2000. I parted out a bike that I got a really good deal on, made myself a quick $500, and realized "hey, this could be something". So I just kept going.
So I buy that two year old, $6000 bike who's frame was $3200 brand new, for $1900 on PB Buy/Sell. Then I sell the fork ($550), the wheelset ($350), brakes ($200), drivetrain ($400), dropper ($150), Bar/Stem/saddle ($120). I now have a $120 frame with shock. These are numbers from one of my recent buys, a 2016 Tracer 275c. I didn't like the shock on that one so I sold it for $180...so right now I actually have $60 towards whatever shock I want, but I'm just waiting for a good deal on something I like to show up.
Stem: Brand-x stem = $10
Saddle: brand-x cutout saddle: $15
handlebars: nukeproof neutron 780mm width: $30
tires: Maxxis High Roller 2 $88 pair
grips: ODI elite grip pro (my favorites) $23
pedals: shimano M530 $26
total: $192
If you opt for the X-fusion slide instead of the RS Reba (both 120mm) you get an extra $145 to play with. (www.worldwidecyclery.com/collections/suspension-forks/products/x-fusion-slide-29-rl2-suspension-fork-120mm-travel-tapered-steerer-15mm-axle-black)
That'd even let you upgrade to a nicer saddle like a wtb volt at $40.
I think it's doable. (I also live in a state without taxes.... so with taxes you start to run into more trouble.)
Specs are:
Chromag Stylus Frame
Tight Yellow, large
$688.00
WTB Asym TCS I35 27.5" Boost Wheelset
Asym I35 TCS 32H / Rear 12X148 Boost
$199.99
SRAM NX 11 Speed Trigger Shifter
Black, Rear, 11 Speed, X-Actuation
$24.99
Shimano XT BR-M8000 Disc Brake
Black, Left Hand Lever, Front
$89.95
Race Face Ride Low Rise Handlebar
Black, 710mm Width
$29.99
Truvativ Hussefelt Stem
Blast Black, 40, 31.8mm, 42 Height
$24.99
Chromag Juniper Saddle 2016
Bright Red
$27.99
Truvativ Hussefelt Seatpost
$28.99
Sunrace CSMX8 11 Speed Cassette
11-42 Tooth, Silver
$63.99
SRAM NX GXP X-Sync Crankset
Black, 175mm, 32 Tooth, No BB
$107.99
Shimano Saint Bottom Bracket
Gold, M810/820 68/73mm
$21.99
Race Face Sniper Grips OE
Red
$3.99
Shimano PD-M424 SPD Pedals
$29.98
Shimano XT BR-M8000 Disc Brake
Black, Right Hand Lever, Rear
$89.95
Shimano SM-RT56 6-BOLT Rotor
180mm, SM-RT56M
$12.99 x 2
Fox 34 Float Performance 27.5 2017
120mm, Black, 15X110MM, Pedelec
$339.99
WTB Bridger 27.5+ TCS Light 27.5X3.0 Tir
$60.95 x 2
I bought a PP Shan (the new one). X Fusion Slant RL2 for 200€ (new!) and installed all my old SLX stuff and wheelset from my old bike.
The SLX stuff is over 3 years old and still running strong.
I know I wont be faster with 1x11/12 or some Kashima stuff...
Examples:
Chromag stylus (jensonusa), marzocchi 350cr (ebay), flow MK3 on zee hubs (built them), zee/xt 10sp drivetrain (old), m785 xt brakes (used), fox dropper (old), etc.
Scott voltage (rental), fox coil (ebay), boxxer team (pinkbike), flow MK3 on saint hubs (built them), zee drivetrain (old), deore brakes (ebay), etc.
Add in the cost and time of having to research which headset, bb, crank spindle length, seatpost size, seatpost collar size, etc. you need to order to fit said frame (and then to find those available at your sale price, in a color you like), and it's become a lot harder than it used to be.
Sram NX 200
Suntour Aion 394
Stans S1 400
Shimano Deore Brakes 80
Shimano SM-RT56 6-BOLT Rotor 20
RF Chester bars 40
RF Evolve Stem 34
RF Chester Pedals 50
Brand X ascend Dropper 110
WTB Volt comp 35
WTB Trail Boss F& R 70
Lizard Skin 494 Grips 9
Total $1992
www.britishcycling.org.uk/membership/race £24
Joining British cycling gives me a 10% discount at CRC so I can spend 117.44 more. Prices below include 10% discount.
www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-scout-290-frame-2018/rp-prod159429 £314.99
www.chainreactioncycles.com/rockshox-yari-rc-solo-air-forks/rp-prod138975 £377.09
www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-slx-1x11-complete-groupset/rp-prod148594 £301.49
www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-neutron-mtb-wheelset/rp-prod160742 £179.99
www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-neutron-am-stem/rp-prod158777 £22.49
www.chainreactioncycles.com/kore-torsion-race-riser-handlebar/rp-prod114499 £19.34
www.chainreactioncycles.com/mavic-crossride-quest-tubeless-mtb-tyre-2017/rp-prod140824 £50.38
www.chainreactioncycles.com/funn-combat-waffle-lock-on-flange-grips/rp-prod109711 £5.84
www.chainreactioncycles.com/wtb-volt-sport-saddle/rp-prod125952 £9.89
www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-ascend-dropper-seatpost/rp-prod149024 £89.99
www.chainreactioncycles.com/dmr-v6-flat-pedal/rp-prod132636 £12.14
Beer £6.75
P.S. I think the cranks might not have 53mm boost chainline, but I reckon I could bodge this somehow!
Or I would just buy this:
www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-scout-290-race-bike-2018/rp-prod159431
www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-ascend-dropper-seatpost/rp-prod149024 £89.99
and spend £200 on beer
"Now folks this is where normal people buy their parts to build bikes, PinkBike Buy-Sell"
After the years and years of hearing about "I could buy a moto for that" I really expected much, much more. To me it seemed like the goal was the make the thing as cheaply as possible, with the motor costing the vast majority of the product. Even then the motor seemed lame, needs so much damn maintenance. Perhaps I just need to get more involved in the moto scene, but to me the moto seemed expensive for what you got.
This was a 2017 KTM. I am not going to take any podium dominance by moto brand to actually mean anything. Just sitting on it, it felt so cheap. The brake levers looked like they had been developed in the 80's, compared to a servo-wave XT lever or a guide RS lever just basic. Lots of the customers we get in complain about arm pump in their races, which seemed like a pretty normal issue that can be solved by a little ergo work. Why are the blades so long? Why do I need to use my whole hand? Surely by now they could have a booster and have 1 finger brakes. Cable actuated clutch? This the 90's?
You have answered my question about the suspension, was curious about that. Like buying high end TT road bikes, they come with $200 wheels as they are destined to be thrown in the trash and a some proper wheels installed.
I am not bashing Moto, I think its a fascinating sport and have huge respect for those who are hitting huge jumps next to someone into a corner. Shit is wild. I just found the bike real basic, lots of steel still being used, limited composite stuff. When I work on a V4 Nomad or a S-Works Tarmac the fit and finish of the product is far superior. That could all be meaningless, but costs money to produce.
The level of competition in Moto is insane, especially compared to mountain biking. We just discovered that training outside of riding is important. Not going to be anymore Brycelands in the downhill unfortunately, but there hasn't been a cowboy (someone who just rolls up to the start line and kills it) in moto in how many years? Imagine downhill racing if there was someone like Aldon Baker.
Best in the world by who? You’ve got some of the same brands that do moto playing in both fields.
Like I said I believe you that it is difficult, the commitment level those guys are riding at is insane. No doubt about it.
Weight of the bikes doesn’t seem to have fallen much, if you’re 6’4” or 5’6” you all ride the same bike, which seems pretty weird to me, geometry between enduro and sx bikes seem real similar other than a slightly higher case height.
Parts are all stamped and welded. Very little cnc work, very little advanced manufacturing. You can call it more durable, but I don’t think that is the case.
The demands for a SX bike vs a pedal bike are so different that they aren’t comparable other than they have a similar form.
I'm seeing a pattern on here the last week or so with articles clearly trying to justify the ridiculousness of the pricing of bikes and components nowadays. I get it, the industry has lots of cash flowing through it and companies want to keep it that way. This is called conditioning. It's gradually making incremental changes and upping the price slowly over time, then when $3k became normal, then $4k etc.. so now when people see $8k bikes people think, "wow, that $4k bike is a great deal." When even a $4k bike is pretty silly for the average weekend warrior to spend on a bike.
Frame: FS 29er Yishunbike frame from AliExpress incl. shipping and import tax - $532
Fork: X-fusion Slide 29" or RockShox something: $350
Shock: RockShox Monarch on eBay: $200
Drivetrain: Shimano SLX for $385 from AliExpress (crankset, chainring, cassette, chain, brakes, rotors, bottom bracket, derailleur, shifter)
Handlebar: Chinese carbon for $13
Stem: Chinese carbon for $15
Grips: Ritchey WCS for $11
Headset: Token tapered for $25
Wheelset: Look around for deals at $300 pair
Tires: Schwalbe Rocket Ron pair from Merlin Cycles: $65
Shift Cable, Der Hanger, Seat Clamp, Headset Spacers from Aliexpress: $10
Saddle: AliExpress carbon w/ padding: $25
TOTAL: $1931
I know it hurts defecting on your affiliates, but it's how you save.
I just bought the most expensive bike I've ever purchased... $1900 for a 2017 Vitus Escarpe XT on CRC, new. Prior to that I'd purchased 2 bikes for $1500 (1 EP back when I was in the industry - GT Sensor 1.0 my only other new bike ever, and 1 used DH- Moorewood Izimu).
I'm an engineer, in my 30s. So, I imagine I'm probably at or above the median of incomes for users on this site. Sure, I pay a mortgage, and I've got some school loans, but my car is paid for, so really, my monthly costs aren't crazy. This isn't to brag, it's just to set the scene. I don't think I could ever justify spending 4k to 5k on a bike. I don't know how enough people can to have it be the new normal for upper end bikes. It boggles my mind. The thing is- they aren't getting nicer!
My GT was MSRP 3k (again, paid 1500). Full XT, full Fox, Richey/WTB bits, ALU frame.
Now, 3.2k (chalk 200 up to inflation, which adds up) gets you the lowest possible spec Sensor. NX drivetrain, Deore brakes, RS Recon/Monarch. "GT" hubs with WTB/RF bits.
So the same money now gets you downgraded drive train, brakes, wheels, and suspension. Still an Alu frame. What gives?
Trek Remedy 8 is in the mid $3,299, gets GX Eagle, Guide Brakes, a Dropper, a Lyric, a Re:Aktiv shock, just add sealant and away you go.
Why anyone would buy a GT is beyond me, poor value, failure prone I-Drive, brutal geo.
But yes, the Giant is a nice value, for sure. There are good value bikes out there (especially with the emergence of direct to buyer brands who make great products)- I just bought one; but by in large, the cost relative to the value of bikes across the board haven't really improved from 8 years ago. To me, considering there haven't been any truly major advancements in tech (yes, 11 speed works better than 9 speed did; geo has gotten more rider friendly; and dropper seatposts are huge- probably the biggest thing; but a bike from 2010 could still be confused for a bike from 2018 ), the climb in price is not justified.
I'll still buy things, because the only other option is quitting, which I'm not doing. But it's not all that often I feel like "hey, I just got fantastic value for my money, I feel great about this purchase." when I get something brand new. With my newest bike, I feel that way. Maybe that's why there was 8 years between new bike purchases for me (with several used bikes/frames along the way).
lol nothing has changed, except for everything you posted. Geo, droppers, suspension, clutched 11 speed derailluers, add to that brakes that are useful, rim widths that actually support a tire, suspension platforms combined with suspension linkages that actually do what their supposed to do.
Frame manufacturing alone has improved greatly, bikes last far longer from reputable brands. Frame bearings aren’t roasted in a month.
If you told someone about a 160mm 29’er, with a new fangled post that you could control from the bar, a storage container in the down tube, with 30mm wide rims and a 2.5 tire in 2008, you would have been laughed out of the industry.
Online brands are awesome, but even the traditional brands are packing more and more value into their products. Each year.
Geo: Nope
Suspension: Nope
Derailleurs: Nope
Brakes: Nope
Wider tire extrusions: Nope
The technology should be going down in price as companies become more adept at utilizing their tech. Yes, there's cost associated with R&D, and there's always going to be overhead- space related, maintenance, etc.
We're not talking about small jumps in price, things have gone up considerably, more than what I think is justifiable. Seeing 10k bikes isn't unusual at all anymore. That's crazy.
www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/x-fusion-sweep-27-5-roughcut-suspension-fork-160mm-travel-tapered-steerer-15mm-axle-black?gclid=CjwKCAiAnabTBRA6EiwAemvBd8bmxLz1X4VRzcOmFmA8B9rVu97pRh2p--_bNn1Rp6DdMmVdRzQwfBoCbEAQAvD_BwE = 1500
www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/hope-tech-enduro-pro-4-mtb-wheelset/rp-prod147148 = 2000
Damn. I'm out. Can't do it with new stuff. I've done it twice with used/new take-offs, but trying to get all new with sufficient bling doesn't seem possible.
$100+$80+$64+$9=$263 not going to get a wheelset built for $40. Pre-built is so much cheaper. A $300 wheelset isn't hard to find, especially if not super picky about rim width.
Easy
Just don't be a snob about all the latest tech an standards. Trawl the bay an local sale FB pages for bargains, when some one is selling a set of XT cranks nearly new for £25... Don't be a snob cos they're not the latest model
Easily done
Contenment and moderation is the key (to life).
When I decided I was going to buy a new bike this year, my first choice was a Fuel EX 9.8 through Ninja, but I decided I wanted to keep with the hard tail and spend less than the cost of the Fuel, plus I wanted steel, since I was sick of carbon bikes.
2014 troy carbon. Paid $4300 at the time, and within the next year added a few upgrades wich come up close to the 6k range. It is expensive but i still ride the bike and still LOVE it. I plan on ridding it a few more years.
No regrets
would love to build the next one myself and see if i can come up with a ride as fun as my troy for a bit less money.
Bought frame, float rp23 and float 36 rlc used for $600. Had drivetrain/wheels from an old build that was $800 but recouped half from selling non-compatible parts. Used dropper for $150. Brand new pedals, cranks/bb, and gx drivetrain upgrade (minus selling old drivetrain) was maybe $300ish with labor. Tires were maybe another $100. Plus miscellaneous maintenance has it at maybe 1700.
The bike isn't top of the line but it definitely rips.
Used is the way.
There are DIY’s for guys who have done some basic hydroforming in their garage using some standard metal work tools and a pressure washer.
The big brands that would have relatively cheaper alloy frames just don’t sell them as frame only. Pretty hard to find a remedy or a trance or a stumpy alloy frame set.
Also have to keep in mind that framsets usually come with a shock and typically it’s the fanciest shock at that.
My Chameleon frame was a grand. Cheap.
Have to develop the product, develop the manufacturing method, invest in the tooling, then actually manufacture it, ship it, insure it, distribute it, sell it through a dealer to a customer. Then stock spare frames for warranty claims, stock spare parts for the frames (links and hardware), offer dealer service. In between all of that is GST and Duty's to be paid.
Then if you want to supply completes, you have choose a build spec. To match price points, customer wants and needs by region. Giant makes something like 50 different Trance models, depending which country they are selling into, all based upon what the market wants and needs from spec to color to price points.
Then on top of that they have to do some marketing to make sure you want to buy one at the end of all this. Pay for someone like Elliot Jackson to go fast down a hill for 4 minutes a week on red bull TV. While we all flock to Vital Team rumors to see who is going where. Pay his mechanic, pay for the travel costs, pay for the UCI World Tour Team License.
At the end of the day they need to pay all the staff involved in that journey and possibly even make a profit.
But yeah, thieving bastards, that thing only costs $200.
@donpinpon29 good alternative to check by your LBS there are often deals to be had that can't be found on the Internet.
1- you have mechanic skills/knowledge
2- you have the tools to build the bike
3- you don't want a full suspension bike
4- you know where to find cheap parts - and know which standards fit your bike
5- you don't mind to use parts that are out of production and you won't be able to replace when you break them (which in Mtb will be very soon)
6- you get a totally out of date frame which again you won't be able to get replacement parts that brake
7- you are ok with components in daft colours and you don't like how they work/look.
8- you don't read any Pinkbike posts on how your 'old bike' is now crap since the new model with the new standard has come out...
Right!
Dartmoor primal+ 200€ shipped
DTswiss x1900 29" 180€ shipped
Manitou minute comp -used (100€ shipped) - got really lucky on ebay
SLX 11speed group (+used cranks) - 200-ish €
20€ headset
Tires~ 30ish €
100€ more for other minorities (handlebar, front chainring, rotors, adapters...)
I had stem, seat clamp and brakes at home + pedals from other bike
Still missing dropper.
12/10 would build it again!
My Nukeproof Mega came in at £1600 - 26" with all new SLX drive train (inc. brakes), Marzocchi 55's and Nukeproof wheelset.
My currently in progress Dartmoor Primal HT should come in around £1200 with new SLX drivetrain (inc. brakes), Marzocchi 350's and Superstar Carbon Wheelset.
Just a case of waiting for those online bargains to crop up.
I built mine having bought the frame for 390eur [look 986, 2011 model, completely new in the box from an online shop, when this came out it was something like 2900 for the frame only] and the rest of the stuff off the classifieds where you can find tons of super components at unimaginable prices [i even got a new unused crossmax sx wheelset [ok 2009 model, sitting at someone's basement for only 300]].
Buy 2nd hand, you can only win at the expense of the marketing victim who buys the new stuff and feeds the big corps as well as the govt.
Aaron Gwin's WC winning replica bike is around $7000
Ryan Dungey's MX and SX winning bike would cost around $70,000 (just in parts)
An entry level mt costs around £500
Just like an entry level MX costs around $5000
My point is that mountain bikes DON'T cost the same as equivelant motorbikes.
Like for like, motorbikes are about 10x the cost
2015 Turner burner V3.1. $950
Rockshox pike dual air $400
Easton haven wheels. $350
Purgatory tires. $80
Xtr cassette $100
Oddessy thunderbolt cranks $110
Sprocket. $40
Xt chain $20
Haven stem & carbon bars. $160
Cane creek headset. $60
Pure v seat. $35
Fortè seatpost. $30
Forte pedals $55
aventuron.com/collections/over-1000/products/diamondback-release-1
$2,600.00 Kona process 153 DL Cherry Picked all built new with the exception of a used Reverb. Lifetime warranty frame. Industry nine Wheels. Schramm carbon cranks. RockShox Pike. Renthal fat bars. It took approximately 2 months of night time internet Couchsurfing shopping.
I would actually be totally happy with the 1x10 11-42 Shimano setup on the Roscoe 7 instead of the 1x11 11-42 SRAM NX setup on the Roscoe 8, but adding only $150 from the Roscoe 7 $1,449 CAD to upgrade to a dropper post, 1x11, upgrade from a coil spring to air spring fork, and upgrade from Tektro to Shimano brakes is a no-brainer.
The Roscoe is easily my suggestion for someone who is looking to get into mountain biking on a budget and really wants a shiny new bike instead of buying used.
just installed new dust wipers? time to buy new dust wipers to have on hand
1) SC Chameleon 27.5+
2) Commencal meta ht am (haven't ridden one yet, but looks great on paper)
2015 giant glory advanced 0 for $2200. It was a total steal! It even had brand new fox 40s and like a $150 seat lol. I'm never going to find a deal that good again
It totally sounds like it was.
or the fact that he NEEDED 30mm INTERNAL WIDTH rims.... Whose ever NEEDED a specific internal width to have fun? In fact I've never looked at the width of my rims but I know they were standard (until this rim craze started), they work, and my bike is fun! (and I'll add if YOU think you NEED them, you're wrong again)
OR maybe the part where he's implying, he cant ride a bike without a dropper and have fun? Try again.
It's just a an attempt to convince the sheeple they need to spend big on a top of the line bike in order to "have fun" and "actually want to ride it"
..but really it's my fault for expecting anything else from a website trying to make a profit.. and none of this is directed at you @loopie you seem nice and reasonable in my experience
I'm going to get off the computer and go outside now, have a nice day
But then you are probably not an XL
Yeah, great deal but I do get the point. Have a great day
I bought on 2016 a kona honzo al, it costs less than $2.000
Then came a dropper post (CB highline), GX transmission, Tubeless tires, carbon handlebar....
Superbike goal achieved
I believe you mean "donuts".
I don't think it works that way...
seemed easy, some good bikes