The new Fat Albert came about from a design study we did with Gerrit Gaastra, an external consultant for Ralf Bohle who has worked with us for nearly fifteen years. He had a very new idea for a different approach to mountain bike tire design, and as you can see the biggest difference is the rounded tread blocks. The idea behind it is that when you are braking mainly, the force vectors coming at any angle are entering the blocks in the right direction. The second idea behind it is that the front tire is very aggressive and very open. This means more rolling resistance, but the front tire is not as important for rolling. It's like a downhill tire with almost separate ridges for the inner and outer blocks. The rear tire is made for braking and accelerating grip - it's a trail tire which can create massive traction for climbing hills. Of course, because it is very open the disadvantage is that there's a rough feeling when rolling on road or hardpack surfaces, but otherwise you can't feel it. We wanted to make really grippy trail tires which come in 27.5" and 29" sizes. - Markus Hachmeyer, Head of Product Management |
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You're not in hell yet.
Think positive, about weight, tubeless system is a lot more expensive than this.
That is some Gorilla tape and Stans tubless sealant. I had an old tube lying around, made a valve and BAM
enough sealant and tape to make more tubeless conversions.
One of my tires isn't even "tubeless ready" so yeah went tubeless... don't ever want to go back. No issues so far.
@jaame I i'm running a High Roller 2 In EXO casing and it has been wonderful as a tubeless setup.
If you are going to try tubeless just make sure the tire bead properly and it should be good.
I currently run 26" HR2 Exo as tubeless without any issues (albeit on a UST rim).
I have previously done the same with non tubeless 29er Ikon and Ardents - the Ikon's were harder to get to seal up initially, but both worked fine.
@enduro94, when i wrote, I was thinking about brazilian market, here everything is so expensive :/ to make an UST Compatible here, you will pay 3x more for a tubeless tire, valve, selant, and rim tape. In my case I own a pair of Mavic EX823, that costs 3x more than other rims made here, matematically the investment doesn't fit, you will save a lot more using any conversion kit than buying EX823... And will save a lot, lot, lot more, if use this EVO tube, because with any rim made in Brazil, for example: (Stan's Tubeless kit here: R$ 280 + R$ 270 for a tubeless tire) against ( R$ 100 for a good 'national' rim + R$190 for a normal tire)
I know, for many who lives outside Brazil, this EVO tube isn't the best choice, but here in monkeyland it will save a lot of $$$ for those who are addicted on weight loss
With Frank Stacy on board, the tires are excellent.
I still run Maxxis HR2s on my 26" Slash as I love the tire, but thinking of going to the Bontrager XR4 next time around.
www.pinkbike.com/news/what-people-are-riding-whistler-opening-weekend-2015.html
90% 26"
10% 650b
I obviously expect this to change for 2016 as people upgrade and find no other option to their old 26" bike - will 650b go up 20%, 25%? Even in the high estimates, it means that they would still outnumbered by 26" offerings... which need tires.
26" MTBs have been sold for 25+ years. 29er's since about 1999 with Fisher and 650b have been pushed to the masses for the last ~2 years by the big brands - I am pretty sure that the user/install base (for lack of a better phrase) of 26" bikes has not been so significantly effected (as yet) to make producing tires uneconomical.
"All the sales of dh, freeride and slopestyle bikes of the past 20 years is equal to one year's sale of xc bikes"
? Are you serious, where is your proof, I'm willing to bet that there are more riders in BC than in the rest of canada, and the majority of the bikes are dh, freeride and all mountain bikes, and I've been all over BC. Don't forget that up until a few years ago most xc bikes had 26" wheels, so I highly doubt that a few years of 27.5 sales have outnumbered all the 26" made in the past 30 years
First paragraph clearly states that for 2014 26" bikes were the number in sales in the US. Here's another source that lumps all bike sales in one category of 20" and over, yet separates them by class ie mountain, cruiser, hybrid etc , nothing about wheel size.
nbda.com/m/articles/industry-overview-2014-pg34.htm. Please show me your industry number's to back up your claim showing the specific amounts of 27.5 vs 26" sales.
Has anybody actually weighed their wheel to see the weight difference by using tubeless?
I'm very interested in these tubes, when it comes to wheels it doesn't take much weight to feel a difference.
If this I lighter than tubeless Id be tempted to go for it.
I run a front MM tire with vertstar compound in SG casing and it lasted a year (though riding time probably 6months).
I love your tires and tubes. However, every time I get a flat it is on the bottom where my tire is contacting the ground. I think you should make a tire/tube that flats on the top of the wheel where the air pressure is unneeded. Then I could still ride, you know? Thanks
...and rounded knobs. Never ever use those. No matter what you theorize about supposed traction, rounded shapes do not quantify traction in the real world. Remember the first High Roller? Decent tire, but had that hideous rounded braking edge. Compare it to the HR2 and tell me why a rounded edge should be used in off road bicycle riding.
This is all I'm sayin.....
media.nashbar.com/images/nashbar/products/1500/WT-VLSE-NCL-PAIR.JPG
Bravo schwalbe. Once again keeping those early 90s dreams alive!
I change my tires too often to run tubeless. if its raining, wet tires, if its dry...dry tires etc etc.
I live in the UK.
Which has UK weather,
The UK weather does not know how to Weather.
I guess these are a good value for conservative riding anti-tubeless weight weenies too, but those people have nothing to do with me.
f*ck it 30$ buys 2 cases of beer.
Might be interesting for those who change tires regulary and don't want to miss out on the weight savings of tubeless.
They better be as flat resistant as tubeless though.
1) I weighed my wheels before and after... They are lighter running tubless.
2) No snakebites running tubeless
3) some standard tyres will still run tubeless. I have a standard high roller and ardent running tubeless, admittently on stans rims
4) I can run lower pressures for better grip on tubeless
It is harder to change a tyre but I will always put up with a little grief in the garage over grief on the trail.
The front looks good for looser terrain. Either way I am looking forward to some reviews.
WTF does that even mean?
I know from primarily riding MX, but also DH, that the back of the knobs on your rear tire wears quickest and also tends to get chewed up(especially with Schwalbe Hans Dampfs*cough cough*), "so when you are BRAKING mainly", the force vectors are 'entering the blocks' FROM THE FRICKEN REAR.
If that's what the heck they are saying here, then I guess I agree.
Stans + £1.99 BMX tube (slit and trimmed) and some cheap electrical tape for rim tape. No problems, even when running Maxxis EXO, folding single ply or 2 Ply DH tubes. Also ran specialized and Scwalbe tyres as well.
Probably not much lighter than running tubes but it's more about puncture protection for me.
f*cking Schwalbe. Greedy bastards.
loved the Muddy MAry and now the MAgic Mary.
loved that tube if it works good
There are still bikes with this ancient wheel size.
An that tyre looks like something from the 90's