Maintenance
The overlapping nature of the Demo’s layout makes working on it a touch harder than some more open bikes. As mentioned, it does mean that as it compresses the space between the chainstay bridge and the lower link opens up and can trap some pretty hefty rocks, before crushing it all back together.
There are hex key interfaces all through the bike with varying sizes (3, 4, 5, 6 and 8mm) depending on if it’s a pivot or small protector fixing bolt. All the tool interfaces are solid and there have been no broken bolts, pivots or issues in keeping the Demo running through a pretty damn long season of riding.
Some of the larger-legged testers did however manage to rub the paint off the upper pivot in only a couple of days of dry riding. I’ve got pencil legs and so avoided that problem.
It’s only really the complex and overlapping construction of the Demo that poses the problem. It’s a trap for mud and tricky to really get in and clean. So, the occasional direct blast with a hose helps to clean out the area round the shock. Thankfully the pivots are all sealed and even with some hefty hose pressure the grease from the factory is still there and clean.
There’s also a lot of bearings on the Demo, 20 in total. But Specialized’s user manual for the Demo is good in documenting which ones go where and also complete disassembly and assembly instruction for doing a full bearing change, bolt torque, grease and thread locker specs and also how to do the internal cable routing.
The overlapping nature of the Demo’s layout makes working on it a touch harder than some more open bikes. As mentioned, it does mean that as it compresses the space between the chainstay bridge and the lower link opens up and can trap some pretty hefty rocks, before crushing it all back together.
There are hex key interfaces all through the bike with varying sizes (3, 4, 5, 6 and 8mm) depending on if it’s a pivot or small protector fixing bolt. All the tool interfaces are solid and there have been no broken bolts, pivots or issues in keeping the Demo running through a pretty damn long season of riding.
Some of the larger-legged testers did however manage to rub the paint off the upper pivot in only a couple of days of dry riding. I’ve got pencil legs and so avoided that problem.
It’s only really the complex and overlapping construction of the Demo that poses the problem. It’s a trap for mud and tricky to really get in and clean. So, the occasional direct blast with a hose helps to clean out the area round the shock. Thankfully the pivots are all sealed and even with some hefty hose pressure the grease from the factory is still there and clean.
There’s also a lot of bearings on the Demo, 20 in total. But Specialized’s user manual for the Demo is good in documenting which ones go where and also complete disassembly and assembly instruction for doing a full bearing change, bolt torque, grease and thread locker specs and also how to do the internal cable routing.
172 Comments
€7,999 / $6,800 USD ? With an alloy frame, and now Rock shox components instead of previous Ohlins / Roval aluminium rims , DT 350 instead of 240 ?
I understand you have to pay Bruni and Finn but it hurts ...
€7,999 = $9670.63
$6,800 = €5624.58
Must be a typo.
Still have them, still going strong!
Frame only incl. VAT:
2019: 2.499€ with RS
2020: 3.499€ with FOX
2021: 2.999€ with FOX
Come on...are we stupid?
Shop Grom: "Certainly sir, which bike would you like to try?"
Me: Errr, I want a Demo"
Grom: "I know... sir... which of our bikes would you like to try out?"
Me: *Sigh*
'We have disability bikes, monkey bikes, unicycles?'
"That is pretty specialised"
If you buy this bike, just add DH tires to your purchase order from any other brand. I was reminded of the old days of 26" DH bikes BEFORE tubeless technology. They would ship with XC weight tires and tubes just to get the weight numbers to read less than 42lbs.
You just had to have DH tires and DH tubes waiting.
Is there some sort of massive tax on a US branded bike, to create this discrepancy? It sure as hell can't be justified with freight costs.
I've noticed the same sort of significant 'upcharge' on many parts as well . It's a puzzler, that's for sure .
But still, there is usually a drastic upcharge for US-Bikes in Europe...
The difference was ridiculous. It literally felt like I had changed the suspension and every other thing on the bike to some massive upgrade. It's crazy too because when Wyatt left Maxxis and went to Speshy, they had almost identical performance and reliability. He's been gone for several years and since then someone at Specialized has just steered their tire division into a muddy ditch at 3am in Louisiana.
Whoever tows their tire division out of that ditch is facing some serious damage control repairs. They're wrecked!!!.
When I'm a DH sled I want a bike that makes me feel more capable then I would ever dare to be on an Enduro bike. That's not something I got from the Demo. You have be on your game to push at all times.
Was a frame up build so I can't comment on the components. What I can say is the fit and finish of the frame was avg at best which I was both surprised and disappointed by.
The frame hardware was too soft and delicate for DH bike and I had many issues with stripped threads both at the shock mounts and BB area. (Was built and serviced by Pro Mechanic) Specialized ended up warrantying the frame and shock which took a bit of time but they did cover everything in the end.
The stock Ohlins TTX was disappointing. I was bottoming the recommending spring rate on green trails and ended up having to go up 2 rates (heaviest spring I've ever run) to get the bottom out resistance I needed. It just seemed like that shock had no compression valving. It would just blow through. Considering the frame has over 30% progression I was pretty surprised how fast it used it's travel.
Ended up replacing the TTX with a DVO Jade and the rear end of the bike was transformed. Was able to go down 25lbs in spring rate and never hit the bottom. Plus, I had legit HSC compression adjustment instead of the 3 position setup on the ohlins shock which I simply don't understand for such a high end product.
My guess is you will be up in the 600+ lb range
I've also had some experience with developing and riding bikes with very similar amounts of progression and leverage ratios, so knew that I probably would need to go higher in spring rate. But I thought to give the stock setting a try just to be complete with the testing.
If you'd like to run a little less sag, like I did at 21%, you'd need around a 625lbs spring. But the sag amount would also depend on your terrain, riding style and preferences.
I was wondering if you are running the higher spring rate because of your knowledge of the leverage ratio or if it is personal preference, overall bike feel, or something else. I know that a lot of bike setup is subjective but should I be re-considering a baseline setup of 27-28% on my DH bikes?
Sincerely, someone who honestly wants to know because maybe this would help me go faster.
I think I found my new XC bike
The aluminum frame on this bike is on the heavier side compared to other bikes - even aluminum ones and that is why it seems overpriced.
Also I can definitely notice a pound of bike weight especially if I ride two bikes back to back. It doesn't make a difference in how fast I can ride but I can notice.
This wasn't even the main point I was making - that this is a heavy aluminum frame and not worth lightweight frame prices.
like every specialized bikes, isn't it ?
it looks like the banshee all day i had one its crazy put a photo side by side geo is most def different but same frame an suspension set up
No it's not
Almost the same
More modern but almost a copy of the banshee
Specialized would sue the shit out of other bike brands for copyright all the time they suck over priced crap I know because I've had 3 of them