Oneup Components makes a CNC-machined 42-tooth cog that retrofits to most Shimano and SRAM ten-speed cassettes. The aluminum cog does not alter the spacing of the original cassette, and Oneup's instructions are quite simple: Unscrew the lock ring, remove the 17-tooth cassette sprocket and its accompanying spacer to make room for the big 42 tooth cog and then reassemble the sprockets. The addition of the 42 gives riders the low gear that is missing from conventional single-ring drivetrains - without having to reduce the chainring size and sacrifice top speed. Oneup Components sells its 42-tooth cog for $100 USD at its webstore.Oneup Components' 42-tooth chainring installed on a Pivot Mach 5.7 completes the ideal one-by-ten drivetrain. With 26-inch wheels, it provides a stump-puller low gear. The big cog should make a lot of 29er riders happy for the same reason.
Details:• 42T sprocket material: 7075-T6 aluminum
• 42T sprocket weight: 71 grams
• 12 upshift points optimized for most 11-36 cassettes
• Fits most SRAM and Shimano 10-speed cassettes and derailleurs
• Compatible with 1x10 and 2x10 drivetrains
• Uses standard freehub driver bodies
• Gearing: (11-13-15-19-21-24-28-32-36-42)
• OneUp-adapted cassette weight increase: 51 grams
• Three-by to a one-by drivetrain weight decrease: 367 grams
• Cassette gearing range improvement: 17%
•
Contact: Oneup Components
Tech InfoOneup's 42-tooth cog will fit any SRAM or Shimano 11 by 36-tooth, ten-speed cassette that has loose cogs from the 11 through the 17. SRAM XO type cassettes, which use a full-width aluminum spider to support the cogs, are not compatible. We used a Shimano XTR cassette and an old-school non-clutch XTR long-cage rear derailleur. SRAM X5 through X9 and Shimano XT and XTR ten-speed rear derailleurs will work in both medium and long cage versions. Oneup Components has a
compatibility page that is regularly updated with exact part numbers and gearing ranges should you need further confirmation.
All lined up, the new wide-ratio Shimano XTR ten-speed cassette awaits reassembly. The removal of the 17-tooth cog and its spacer (top) from the original cassette makes room for the new 42. The steel washer below the Oneup cog is placed in front or behind the aluminum sprocket for SRAM or Shimano applications.
Oneup machined six shift gates into their aluminum sprocket that match up with the gates on Shimano and SRAM's 36-tooth cogs to ensure seamless shifting
(Oneup says that there are 12 mathematical shift locations on their 42). The original cassette ratios are: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-36, and with the elimination of the 17-tooth sprocket, the wide-range ratio is: 11-13-15-19-21-24-28-32-36-42. We were concerned that the four-tooth jump between the 15 and the 19 would be an issue because it is preceded by a two-tooth jump and followed by a smaller, three-tooth change. In reality, we never noticed the difference, although we are sure that more 'retentive' riders would take notice. On the large end of the cassette, the addition of the 42 creates a logical step from the 36 tooth - just like SRAM's 11-speed XD cassette.
The assembled cassette. Note the larger jump between the 15 and 19-tooth cogs (fourth sprocket from right) where the 17 was removed.
Shimano and SRAM May Be AngryIt should be noted that SRAM and Shimano clearly state that the largest cog that their ten-speed rear derailleurs can handle is a 36 - definitely not a 42. We are sure to get grief from both establishments for posting a story that encourages their customers to force their mechs to handle a 42 - but, because neither have ponied up with a wide-range ten-speed cassette and rear derailleur to give existing ten-speed owners a lower priced wide-range gearing option, we're not concerned if they get their panties in a bunch. So, here's what you have to do to get their derailleurs to shift to the 42:
Most rear derailleurs have a B-tension screw in the body behind the hanger that rocks the derailleur back and away from the largest cassette cog. The function of the B-tension screw is to adjust the position of the upper pulley to ride as close to the largest cog as possible without interfering with shift action, or causing the pulley to rumble on the sprocket teeth. To get the rear derailleur to sit above the big 42-tooth cog, you'll need to run the B-tension screw almost all the way in for Shimano and for some SRAM derailleurs, you may need to remove the plastic thread-locker washer below the screw so you can run the screw in another few millimeters. Rocking the rear derailleur back requires the addition of some chain - as does the addition of the 42. Oneup Components says you'll need two links more, but we added three because the extra length puts the lower derailleur pulley farther back when you are in the big sprocket. This eases the angle that the lower run of chain must take from the pulley to the chainring, which reduces noise and improves shifting.
The B-tension screw (left) is located in the rear of the derailleur body and it lines up with the hanger. We ran it in most of the way to get the Shimano XTR derailleur's upper pulley to clear the 42-tooth cog (right).
When you have the rear derailleur shifting properly, it will look completely wrong, but do not worry, because Shimano and SRAM have evolved their mechs to such a high degree, that they will shift marvelously when compromised as such
(although, you may hear a different story from them if you ask for warranty instructions). So: Assemble cassette - Check! Crank B-tension screw - Check! Add chain - Check! Ensure shifting is adjusted properly - Check! All that is left is to go ride some hills.
Ride ImpressionsWe installed the Oneup Compinents 42-tooth conversion on a Shimano XTR-equipped Pivot Mach 5.7 that was previously converted to a one-by using an MRP 32-tooth chainring and chainguide. The conversion took less than an hour including the photos, so anyone with basic skills who has replaced a cassette and adjusted a rear derailleur could crank out the conversion in a half hour. We didn't even have to readjust the shifting, because Oneup's chainring duplicated the location of the original cogs perfectly.
On the dirt, shifting was quick and sure throughout the entire range of the cassette and, as mentioned, there was no discernible leap in resistance when we shifted between the 15 and the 19-tooth cogs, where the 17-tooth cog was removed. Having nearly the equivalent low gear of the Shimano 24 by 36 triple-chainring drivetrain with a single-ring setup was sweet on the steeps and the conversion might allow those who want a slightly taller gear to add a couple of teeth to their one-by chainrings. As far as wear goes, we expect the Oneup 42 to outlast the front sprocket by a considerable margin because it sees less overall use, and also because it has more teeth than any other sprocket in the drivetrain, so each tooth sees less action.
Pinkbike's Take: | One hundred dollars for an aluminum chainring may have some PB readers up in arms, but that is pennies compared to the cost of purchasing an 11-speed shifter, rear derailleur and XD cassette from SRAM to achieve a similar end. The cost of an XD cassette is $400 alone. Oneup Components went the extra nine yards by engineering its 42-tooth sprocket with the shifting gates and clearances to assure that the conversion from an 11 by 36 ten-speed cassette to a working wide-range 11 by 42 would be as seamless as possible for average garage mechanics. In our opinion, that is a cheap $100. Oneup's 42-tooth cog is the missing link that riders who swear by one-by-ten drivetrains have been waiting for. - RC |
I dont think they are going to compromise all the R & D that goes into designing a rear mech and the XX1 I'd rather they consentrate on bringing the price down for their 11 speed system rather than trying to retro fit some cheap alternative to a product they allready have.
Shimano on the other hand need a kick up the arse.
(Front Mech RIP)
Don't think i'm not a fan for a X71 group, but come to think about it - the sales of the XX1 and XO1 groups will vanish much like the dinosaurs did.
"XX1 and X01 are so expensive! Grr! SRAM makes me so mad! I hate brand new, top of the line products that will eventually trickle down just like everything else throughout bike history!"
*a new, cheap alternative is introduced*
"This new extremely cheap alternative is too much money! $100 for all the benefits of a $1.5k+ grouppo without having to wait for it to trickle down over the course of several years? Blasphemy! I'll buy it at Wal-Mart when it's $15"
you guys are unbelievable.
THIS product in the solution; to SRAM, Shimano and the issue of a larger rear cog.
They are not one of the big accessory/component producers, so of course their price is going to be higher. Makes sense, and I'll probably end up trying it out - LONG before the big two have any affordable options...
www.ebay.com/sch/mtbtools/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from
XX1 is waaay too expensive, and this is a great alternative.
If a X91 and more importantly, a X71 group is made, my guess would be that weight won't go so much higher, but the price will go down significantly. And then many people will have the opportunity to try 1x11 without the crazy high prices of XX1 and XO1.
This was my idea at first.
It's XO and XX level equipment. It's supposed to be beyond compromise. As is XTR. Until either company trickles the technology down, you gotta go for the high test stuff.
This shows the 11 doesn't improve your range in a real sense. It is a gimic. A really pricey, buy all new crap, including wheels, gimic.
1up is a populist movement in response to a top down psuedo innovation pushed by marketing more than any need. I bet some sram engineer thought of this and the boss sand no, it won't be profitable enough.
I hope shimano produces a 10speed mega range instead of an 11 speed, but if they don't that's fine to. Let these guys have a chance at some market share. In fact, i'd like some stock in 1up
I don't need half the gears between the top and bottom, so in that sense - I agree with you. But that's not really what's happening here, is it? Its not a company adding more ratios in between everything, they are REPLACING one, not adding to it.
I'll post up my impressions when the ebay cog arrives. I'm skeptical, but hopeful...
Get ready in the next ten years to see cheap foreign goods meaning mexico, while Asian means expensive because of Chinese demand. Especially if Japan and China go to war.
But this begins to feel like a forum at NPR, not PB.
When the US dollar collapses, China collapses. There is no alternative scenario. Explain one of you think there is, nostradamus. Hell, pretty much everything will collapse then, which is why our pile of meaningless bonds and fake money continued to have perceived value. The idea that China will someday own everything cause they are buying all the worthless debt is ridiculous, because the debt itself is worthless. None of it will EVER be repaid. .. there is only collapse for
all parties involved at the end of this tunnell... which is why they will continue to buy our debt even though they occasionally grumble about it.
You guys pretend that US economy is a legitimate enterprise that is actually
based upon facts on the ground or something that actually exists, your naivity and that of others is actually what keeps the whole system afloat, lol.
The Fed "taper" isn't really happening either, just another way to tweak numbers to give the perception of economic "recovery" for the masses.
www.zerohedge.com/contributed/2013-10-25/chinas-gold-reserves-least-25-times-higher-reported-%E2%80%98de-americanisation%E2%80%99-cont
That article essentially sums up the situation i described, and this article goes into detail speculating why China is accumulating massive reserves and how and why they aren't revealing how much they have.
m.seekingalpha.com/article/1843792
@HohmSkulled
The easiest way to turn to a consumer based economy is to go to war. (Japan) Private contractors will supply weapons that china will buy. These contractors will hire a new middle class that displaces the jobs lost in iphone construction. These people will consume stuff.
Eternal growth is a myth, but you can make a consumer economy. It just crashes after a few decades. There is plenty of slave labor elsewhere in Asia and Mexico to keep it afloat for a while.
Get ready for more bikes stamped "Made in Mexico" and "Made in Vietnam".
canfieldbrothers.com/components/9-tooth-rear-hub
Who was winning this argument anyway?
So there's no difference between a 10 and a 9sp cog? It' just a matter of spacers? (sorry if the question is silly, I didn't imagine that could work)
Yes taking the 16T from a 9spd cassette (as long as you just take the cog and use 10spd spacers) will work.
If you wish to buy one, you may want to see either with your LBS, he might be able to get some, or I believe Rose bikes have some (that's where I bought 2 Shimano XT 16t cogs)
Be sure to check out our compatibility and shipping pages before ordering.
www.oneupcomponents.com/pages/compatibility
www.oneupcomponents.com/pages/shipping
I agree with bholton completely. I have a 1x9 and most of the time I'm still double-shifting.
OneUpComponents, your FAQs page specifically states that this is not compatible with 9-speed cassettes. How long do us 1x9 folks have to wait for a 42T option?
-- when you have to dial that B Tension waaay in so the rear D is set way out, l bet you'll get a lot of gear skipping when you're in the high gears (small cogs)... skipping because the chain isn't link'd up with enough teeth because the rear D is push out.
when you add a full squish into the picture, you gotta be careful cause there's a lot of bikes out there where the chain line is stretched when the suspension is compressed. Barry Biker who is aware of this is going to jack up his products the first time the suspension gets maxed out.
those B tensions screws are pretty weak -- they can't handle a lot of stress, having them dial'd waaay in only adds to the flexin' factor.
then there's the trail-side F-up factor -- let's just supposed the chain gets tossed into the spokes -- which can happen with pretty anyone's system. good luck getting that chain un-stuck with a cog that size.
usually, if this happens, it's not going to be a good thing so.. that's just a side note. just seems like it'll be even worse because that cog is so large.
Chain slapping on the tire --
l have seen a bunch of full squish bikes where when you're in the granny gear, the chain rides really close to the tire -- when you're all slamma-jamma, riding really technical stuff, you'll hear the chain rubbing on the tire. with the cog being that large, it'll likely ride even closer to the tire. --- not saying every bike is like this but l sure have seen a few that are.
l had one other thing l thought of when l first posted my note but, it escapes me right now.
l don't write all the well, hope you catch my drift.
In person, l'm much better at pointing things like this out.
fstatic0.mtb-news.de/f/wy/xb/wyxbf6cmxwky/large_RitzelT4210fachXT.JPG?0
or
fstatic0.mtb-news.de/f/ml/th/mlth0tq1ai1y/medium_image.jpg?0
Weight is also @80-88grams and shifting is nice, no Problem after a full Enduro Season with one of these cogs.
peeps can chat all the pro's they want, l just dont see the need. l have tinkered with all sorts of gearing combos through the years with single speeders, 1x7's, 1x8's, 1x9's, 2x8's, 2x9's, "mega range", rapid rise, 1x1, fixie road and mtb's, you name it, l tried it..
l think there's more reasons NOT to use that type of product than there are reasons for using it.
l'm not really a big fan of messing with large gears like that when the peeps at Shimano or SRAM never intended that large of a cog to be used with their system. Shimano had/has the "Mega Range" cassette on a bunch of hybrid bikes. This cassette is one where the last three "low" gears are much large than the first 5 or 6 (not sure if they made a 9spd version). l found they were very sloppy when the rider is down in the smaller cogs, the chain is very loose. Sloppy cause the chain is pretty long so it's able to go into those larger rings then when you're in the smaller cogs the chain is really kinda longer than it needs to be.
just my two cents
www.ebay.com/sch/mtbtools/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from
Someone should tell oneup their "compatibility" page is a bit optimistic on medium cage derailleurs.
As front chainring sizes (below 30t) are limited, perhaps I could get away throwing away my horrible x9 crank (with 28t ring) with BB drive side plastic cone sliding outwards to the right and creating play in the crank -- buying a reasonable (not NEXT) 30t Race Face SS crank with better BB- and all that because I could switch to 42t in the back. Don't worry if it does not make sense, you have to be someone like me riding through this not so pleasant experience of lateral play in the crank....
However, I need to know how likely is this new ring to score the free hub body. And that is a crucial question for expensive hub owners. It would be nice to see this kind of review- heavy dude pedalling uphill on North Shore for 6 months and then showing us pictures of damage is any. Then I will splurge 100 bucks...maybe.
Honestly, I hope Shimano comes up with reasonably priced SS cranks in the range of 22-36 or so interchangeable rings.
I love how everyone is saying you must not be fit if you need this.. Meanwhile SRAM is selling 1x11 by the boatload.. Also do you not think it kind of matters where you live? As in some areas are more hilly than others?
Regarding stabilization of the sprocket. The standoffs that are located around the ring make contact with the backside of the 36T ring. In doing so, the 42T ring can not flex outward when cross-chaining.
We have not had any issues with gouging freehubs. This is a more complex issue than just pedalling torque. The reason that people (myself included) see damage to their freehub in the 13,15,17 positions is not due to straight pedalling torque. These are the gears you're in when you get on the gas out of a corner or hammer up a short pitch. It is the shock load created when the freehub engages combined with thin steel cogs that causes this damage. In our experience, this shock loading is significantly lower when you're spinning your lower gears. If you look at an XX1 cassette the spline through which all 11 gears are loaded (including the ones that generate these shocks) is only ~4mm wide.
I hope that helps.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm 99% sure it's the right maths I done.
36 : 42 is a ratio of 0.857 : 1
30 : 36 is a ratio of 0.833 : 1
31 : 36 is pretty close to 36 : 42 at 0.861 : 1 (but I don't know of anyone who makes a 31T chainring).
The only reason I would want something bigger than 36t in the back was so I could run something bigger than 38t in the front..
Im now running a 34t front 11-36 cassette and dont really know why people would want less top end than that? I actually preferred a 36t up front..it forced me to hammer the whole time..No problems doing rides with over 5,000' of vertical of climbing..
I also dont understand the hate for the front mech..mine NEVER gave me trouble riding trails better suited for a dh bike than a trail bike...if you want that type of gearing just keep a 2x10
this one up is kinda over price for 100 dollar.
yes it would save alot compares to xx1, but you can buy another XT cassette for such amount.
anyone know how to contact or buy mirfe ritzel??
Pleas pm me if you have the info. Tx.
For those who are complaining about the cost of xx1 or x01~ Here's a tip! Go get a job and all your complaints will end! Money cannot be taken with you, so spend it and have all the fun you can while you can!
For those complaining about the alternative cost of $100 dollars? My suggestion is for you to get out of MTB all together! Maybe step onto a beach cruiser with a 6 pack rack and show your strengths on the seat of one of those...
f*ck*** ugly!!!
On another note I choose a system like this one over the Sram systems because I don't like Sram drive trains. Every time I rent a bike with a sram drive train I leave the trail frustrated from shifting problems. That includes the XX1 drive train. So for some of us it is not about the cost of an XX1 drive train but simply preference of Shimano.
On a third note, when will Shimano get on board with 1X drive trains?
If this product doesn't suit your riding style or is unnecessary because of your superior fitness and strength, then good for you. It's not necessary to tell others what they should be doing.
Not all riders from the UK are so arrogant.
@thomdawson: well, could have known that someone would be tempted to do what you did. so, your comment es silly in itself.
@thomdawson you are completely right, though, if you are fine with normal 1x10, why should one consider more teeth? i dont know your terrain in UK, but sometimes in the alps you might just need those extra teeth for a long, steep climb. doesnt even have to be technical. still there are always people who go do these climbs with a normal 1x10, rocking a 34 chainring out front, just to depress me. if you are one of those, lucky you, i hate you :-P
Is it supposed to boost my ego if I say stupid tough guy things like that? Didn't work for me.
*maybe this belongs here, just saying
www.campyonly.com/shorts/14speed.html
why bother having this stupoid comment section when you leave bullshit on here and them erase real comments????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????.
no point even bother to read any comments any more if i have f*ck hitler that takes off real comments and leaves other bullshit up, go a head ban me
Shimano do 2 Zee short cage rear mechs...one for 23-28T close ratio (DH) cassettes (which is probably the one you have), and one for 32-36T wide ratio cassettes.
I have the 32-36T and would also be interested whether it works...as changing the rear mech too suddenly makes it even more expensive!!
OneUpComponents can you tell us...??
I'm out!
singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/xt-11-42-cassette-for-free
This guy made a custom 11-42 cassette and says that he runs it successfully with an ZEE FR rear derailleur!!!
How would you explain it, other than that it is possible?!
www.ebay.com/sch/mtbtools/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from
And get something similar for less than half the price. Granted, this option will be heavier than the aluminum offering, here.
www.actionsports.de/de/Komponenten/Cassetten/10-fach/Leonardi-Factory-General-Lee-29-42-Z-10-fach-Shimano-Kassetten-Adapter::59666.html
should be much improved. i will be trying one on the weekend.
Sino - I agree with you, I think people should look at other ways to improve climbing technique rather than just sticking these crazy low gears on. That said if it makes your ride more fun then why not. Would be good on a 29er maybe?
Fighting on the inter webs is like winning the special olympics, even if you win your still phucking wee tard ed
My trials bike doesn't have gearing this low.
If youre running 32 or 34 in the front and a 11-36 rear on a 6" travel bike, you have nothing to complain about ! better spend that money on some new tires and get more out of your riding season. good tires are very very important IMO, be it your bicycle, motorbike or car.
what this large rear chainring is actaully good for is the ability to increase your front sprocket size and still be able to climb like before. more top speed !
I also wish they started making quality 5 or 6 speed casettes like in the XO or Saint range (i know the saint is easily moded thats not the point, cant climb with that shit after...) because what I really use are 5 of the 10 rear gears at most, the largest to go up and the smallest 3 just riding or going down, the rest are just a weight penalty.
there is bound to be a gap, even a big one, in gearing by eliminating cogs ( which are useless in my case ), thats what im getting at. because i dont shift them one by one. shifting down from the easiest one, i go 3-4 cogs, so instead of clicking at the shifter always passing those gears it would be a one shot deal! = faster, easier and less weight/ unsprung mass...
also those who neg propped my first comment, i would like to hear your opinion/ input on the matter
It is $100 because it is way less than the 11spd alternative, and at the moment there is little or no competition. While the machined hunk of aluminum itself is a small fraction of that, there is the R&D, set-up and marketing that has to be covered. And they probably are a bit unsure of how many units they will move.
As soon as you move out of your parents basement and enter the real world, this will all make sense...
We're all bunch of bike nerds who own 1 or more mountain bikes that cost…maybe on average $2500? Plus all the gear.
Let's be real.
I think Absolute Black is doing a 40
There is a CZ company offering 40t chainrings called Colonel Werk 10speed
www.werk.cz/html/e-shop
send them an email, or left side: kazerty -> kazety MTB to have a look
Iff you not trying bit numbers on weight scale and not trying win WC XC by hummershmidt!!!!
www.pinkbike.com/news/Truvativ-HammerSchmidt-Preview-2008.html
Maybe you Brits need to man up and ride proper mountains for 5hrs at a time. Just because you guys ride relatively small hills doesnt mean that this product is not useful to others. I ride very steep and extremely technical singletrack weekly and this 42T is definately needed in a 1x setup around here.
How much weight does this add to my bike?
Personally I would preffer a dual rate or even triple (for want of a name) cassette as standard.
With 10 gears, I would like;
1 or 2 large gears, for high speed.
2 small gears, for climbing
6 close ratio gears in the middle for normal riding.
33 to 36T up front does, and 36T out back does also. Gotta keep the unsprung mass down out back
Now I like an 11T up front and possibly a 13T
Climbing has tho have a grinding gear and a spinning or rest gear, so the 32T and 36T
In the middle, well the 2nd to 7th on a normal 11..25 as used for dh.
A trail, enduro bike is normally setup like a mini dh bike, but with 2 climbing gears and a fire road or road blasting gear.
The 42T may fit i to this, but I wonder about mech position, chain tension in lower gears, how my clutch would work, extra loading put on the mech springs, how it effects the life of my mech, does it put my mech closer to barms way on rocky stuff as it hands lower, can sticks get caught in her easier etc.
ONEUP....More like total F%^KUP. - They should be focusing their efforts on making more competative parts for real enduro not gash stuff for lazy people.!!!!.
Also, I shall note that your 68 year old friend could eliminate his 28t front ring, derailleur and shifter by using this mahoosive cog on his cassette and still keep the same gear ratio, which is kind of the whole point of this. You seem to be under the impression that it's for people who want a 42:24 granny gear, but it's just a way to get double gear ratios without a front derailleur.
my two cents --
this product is for people who buy into every new idea on the market.... some new things are a great new design, some aren't, this is just overkill. if there was a motor attached to that gear assembly, it would be a whole different story.
Additionally I don't race and don't care if it's faster to walk up a climb, I get more satisfaction in being able to ride it. Jmo.