Tech Tuesday - Gravity Dropper Rebuild
The Gravity Dropper is likely the simplest telescoping seat post available, consisting of relatively few parts and often going for long periods of time before requiring maintenance. Even the Gravity Dropper will need some love after awhile, though, becoming slow and rough if its internals become contaminated. Thankfully the job is relatively easy to perform.
What's needed: • 6mm hex key • Lithium based grease • Clean rag • Medium strength Loc-Tite | Some helpful pointers • We removed the post from the bike in order to better show the process, but leaving the remote on your handlebar will make it easier to activate. • The post's action is very dependent on how tight or loose the upper collar has been tightened onto the outer tube. Too loose and the saddle will rattle, but too tight and it won't cycle up and down freely. • A light grease will keep the post moving freely, but a thicker grease will slow its action down slightly. • Always double check that the post locks into all positions after a rebuild before hitting the trails. |
Step 1 - Remove the post from your bike and wipe off any grease and grime that might be present. Use a long 6mm hex key to turn the bottom cap nut (located up in the bottom of the post) counterclockwise until it threads out of the post. Note that the cap is under pressure from the post's return spring - aim away from your face. Remove the black plastic spacer and spring.
Step 2 - Inspect and pull the rubber boot up and off of the post's collar, then turn it counterclockwise until it is completely off of the outer tube's threads. This will allow you to remove the inner tube from the post.
Step 3 - Push and hold the remote lever (so that the pin fully retracts) while pulling up on the saddle. Slide the inner tube up and out of the post.
Step 4 - Use a rag to wipe the upper tube clean of any dirt and grime, giving the plastic shims extra attention. Clean out the pin holes on the upper tube (we used the end of a pen, shown above), and remove any dirt within the outer tube.
Step 5 - Apply a light coat of lithium based grease to the inner tube, making sure to coat the plastic bushings. A dab of medium strength Loc-Tite on the collar threads will help hold the collar in the correct position.
Step 6 - Push and hold the lever in the open postion while inserting the inner tube back into the outer tube, making sure that the upper bushing fits into the slots in order to fully seat properly. Thread the collar down finger tight until it stops - do not tighten forcefully.
Step 7 -With the post at full extension, slide the spring and black plastic spacer back up into the bottom of the post. Thread the bottom cap nut by turning it clockwise until it stops snuggly.
Step 8 - Reinstall the post into your bike and check the action by cycling it up and down. If the collar is too tight the post will not release, but if it is too loose there will be play when the saddle is at full height. Tighten or loosen the collar accordingly and then pull the rubber boot back over top.
Step 8 - Reinstall the post into your bike and check the action by cycling it up and down. If the collar is too tight the post will not release, but if it is too loose there will be play when the saddle is at full height. Tighten or loosen the collar accordingly and then pull the rubber boot back over top.
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Squamish, BC, Canada
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The cable can be the biggest headache because the lever is so crap and lets moisture in. Better of changing the cable to some teflon coated one and filling the lever casing with grease. Or change the lever with some type of fork lockout lever.
@ gaudio56 - reverb everytime. you get something that is from a well known company, rather than an independent company. good customer service. reverb works great, looks good too. hydro is good, there is a reason why we are running hydro brakes right? I am going to be blunt and say the reverb is the best dropper post in the market now (imo). period.
Is it the part number 74
gravitydropper.com/products/gravitydropper-parts