Tech Tuesday – Make a Ghetto Dropper Post

Mar 13, 2012 at 0:07
Mar 13, 2012
by Richard Cunningham  
 
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Although the concept certainly isn’t a new invention, dropper seatposts may be the most important innovation to emerge from the new century. I am a dropper post fan for sure, but there are a lot of times when I am Enduro-style riding and only use the dropper once or twice, which makes the weight and complication (and the $150 to $350 cost) of a telescopic seatpost seem redundant. Often, the best descending option for aggressive trail riding is a half-way position, with the saddle’s height reduced just low enough to get the center of gravity down, but still high enough to facilitate an occasional pedaling section. It was one of those rides that got me wondering, ‘Could there be a Ghetto solution to the dropper post that weighs next to nothing, costs less than 20 bucks and could be made at home?’ Well, it turns out that there is – sort of.

Welcome to another edition of Ghetto-Tech Tuesday, where we will learn to craft a few parts and make modifications to household items that will enable us to quickly and accurately drop the saddle and then return it to a specific ride height. Before you get all excited, though, the end product of this experiment will not perform anywhere close to a RockShox Reverb or a KS Lev seatpost, but it will allow you to get the job done on the fly and reasonably quickly. If you are living on the cheap, or don’t want to commit to an expensive dropper post, this Tech Tuesday is for you.




Ghetto Level One: Make a Seatpost Travel Limiter

I met a guy named Harold a few years back who crafted a limiter ring from an unused plastic reflector bracket. He clamped the ring half-way up his seatpost so he could unclamp the frame’s quick release while he was riding and lower the post to exactly the same spot every time. I made one the next day and it is quite useful – and free, providing you can scrounge up a bracket at your local bike shop.
Tip: Rear reflector kits usually mount to seat posts. Many front reflector clamps, however, are designed for handlebars – and those smaller-diameter clamps can often be used to make limiters for telescopic dropper posts.

Ghetto dropper tools.

What You’ll Need:
• The correct diameter reflector clamp.
• Sandpaper or a medium-tooth file.
• A fine-tooth hack saw or similar cutting device.
• Phillips screwdriver.
• Vice or suitable clamping device.
• Sharpie marking pen or similar.

Tighten the collar s clamping screw to make it easier to cut and shape the part.
Step One -Locate a reflector assembly with a clamp that will fit your seat post. Best practice is to bring your post to your LBS on a slow Wednesday and ask them to poke around for one. Discard the reflector assembly and then snug down the clamp screw to firm up the band.

Cut reflector tab off and reshape the collar.
Step Two -Clamp the band in a vice or similar and cut off the excess plastic material from the clamp with a fine-tooth hack-saw blade. Use a file or abrasive paper to smooth the clamp profile.

Set the collar about as far up the post as you want the saddle to drop and tighten it.
Step Three -Remove the seatpost, clean any residual grease or oil from the post and then slide the clamp onto the post. Replace the post into the frame and then set your saddle height to its cross-country position. Raise the clamp to approximate how low you want your saddle to drop and clamp it snugly in place. (I set it about 2.5 to 3 inches for starters). Tighten the clamp screw and you are ready to ride.
Tip: before you set out, drop the saddle and put your weight on the collar to check that it is tight enough to stay put.




Ghetto Level Two: Complete Your Dropper Post With an Up-Leash

Clamping a ring part way up your seatpost allows you to quickly and accurately drop the post on the fly using the quick release lever – but you will probably have to dismount at the bottom of the descent to return your saddle to its proper ride height. Armed only with off-the-shelf bits that you probably have laying in the back of a drawer, you can fashion an upward travel limiter that will ensure your seatpost will return to the same height every time. Of course, you still must move the post by hand, but you won’t be moving it more than once – and with practice, you will be able to return your saddle to ride height while you are rolling. Watch and learn.

What you ll need for stage two

What You’ll Need:
• A derailleur cable.
• 3/16-inch copper tubing or two 12 / 10 gauge wire terminals.
• 8 inches of plastic cable-liner tubing.
• Cable cutter.
• Wire crimping pliers or similar.
• 3 inches of ¼ inch shrink tubing.
• Heat source (a butane cigarette lighter will do).
• Fine-tooth hack saw.
• Abrasive paper.
• Measuring tape or ruler.
• Sharpie marking pen or similar.
• A previously installed Ghetto travel-limiter clamp.

Mark the collar position for later reference.
Step One -Ensure that your saddle height is set in its correct upper position and the seatpost clamp is secured. Mark the position of the limiter collar.

Cut the copper tube and shrink tube and then set them aside. Sand the copper tube smooth.
Step Two -Using the fine-tooth-blade hack saw, cut two lengths of copper tubing about 3/8 inch long (10mm) and sand the edges smooth. Now, cut two 5/8 inch (16mm) pieces of shrink tube. Set them aside.


If your top tube is forked like the Cannondale on the left route the lower loop around the upper tube and in front of the seat tube. If the frame has a single top tube route the lower loop under the top tube and behind the seat tube. This will ensure that the loop pulls up straight when you raise the saddle.
Step Three -Observe and make notes. You will be using the derailleur cable to fashion a leash that loops around the top tube where it intersects the seat tube. If your frame's top tube has a forked reinforcement like Specialized and Cannondale, your leash will run forward of the seat tube. If your frame is conventional, single tube design, the leash will run behind the seat tube.

Trial loop
Step Four -Make a trial loop leaving enough slack to allow the leash to slide comfortably back and forth on the frame tube. Your wires will need to overlap three inches or more so there is some working room. Mark where the wires cross to form the loop with the Sharpie. Using your marks, cut a length of plastic cable liner about 1/4 inch shorter than the length around the loop.

Slide all the parts onto the cable in this order so when you make the loop it will be correct. Slide the copper tub up against the liner and crimp the loop in place around the top tube.
Step Five -Slide one piece of shrink-tube, one piece of copper tube and then slide the plastic liner onto the cable. Next, loop the assembled cable around the seat tube and then slip the loose end of the derailleur cable back through the copper tube to make a loop. Pull the cable through until both Sharpie marks line up with the end of the copper tube. Crimp the copper tube with the wire terminal crimp pliers towards one end then check to see that the loop does not bind or catch on the frame tube. Good? Crimp the copper tube a second time on the opposite end and you should have a sweet looking loop.

You may have to loosen the seatpost collar to thread the cable through.
Step Six -Loosen the seatpost limiting collar enough so that the derailleur cable can be slipped under the clamp and then turn the clamping end so that it lines up with the cable leash assembly.

Slide the copper tube about 5 8 of an inch 16mm keep the leash tight and them mark the cable above the tube.
Step Seven -Slide the cable under the clamp where the gap is and then thread it back through the copper tube. Tighten the collar just enough to keep it in position, while allowing you to pull the derailleur cable through the gap. Pull the cable tight and then slide the copper tube up the cable until it sits about 5/8 inches (16mm) away from the collar. Mark the wire at the top of the copper tube.

Crimp the upper loop with the saddle slammed so there is plenty of slack in the cable.
Step Eight -Slide the seatpost down an inch or so to give you some room to crimp the copper tube. Slide the copper tube until it lines up with your Sharpie marks and then crimp it in two places.

Slide the cable cutters down the cable as close as you can to the crimp before you trim the free ends.
Step Nine -Grab your cable cutters and trim the derailleur cable as close to the ends of the crimps as possible. Slide the shrink tubing over the crimp, making sure that it overlaps the cable ends and then use the cigarette lighter or a similar heat source to shrink it in place.


The finished Ghetto dropper will give you years of shred service for about ten bucks.
Step Ten -Your Ghetto dropper post should look something like this. Check that your seatpost limiting collar is tight and then give your bike a ride to ensure your saddle height is correct at full extension. If it needs an adjustment, loosen the limiting collar and add or subtract the distance you need to get it right. Most riders who manipulate their quick-release seatpost clamps on the fly, run the lever facing forward because it is more natural to twist the wrist that direction when in the saddle.



Any chance you'd be interested in making a Ghetto Dropper Post?

How to add a return spring to your Ghetto Dropper. Check out the secret plans: http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/7830790/





Past Tech Tuesdays:
TT #1 - How to change a tube.
TT #2 - How to set up your SRAM rear derailleur
TT #3 - How to remove and install pedals
T #4 - How To Bleed Your Avid Elixir Brakes
TT #5 - How To Check And Adjust Your Headset
TT #6 - How To Fix A Broken Chain
TT #7 - Tubeless Conversion
TT #8 - Chain Wear
TT #9 - SRAM Shift Cable Replacement
TT #10 - Removing And Installing a Headset
TT #11 - Chain Lube Explained
TT #12 - RockShox Totem and Lyric Mission Control Damper Mod
TT #13 - Shimano XT Crank and Bottom Bracket Installation
TT #14 - Straightening Your Derailleur Hanger
TT #15 - Setting Up Your Front Derailleur
TT #16 - Setting Up Your Cockpit
TT #17 - Suspension Basics
TT #18 - Adjusting The Fox DHX 5.0
TT #19 - Adjusting The RockShox BoXXer World Cup
TT #20 - Servicing Your Fox Float Shock
TT #21 - Wheel Truing Basics
TT #22 - Shimano Brake Pad Replacement
TT #23 - Shimano brake bleed
TT #24 - Fox Lower Leg Removal And Service
TT #25 - RockShox Motion Control Service
TT #26 - Avid BB7 Cable Disk Brake Setup
TT #27 - Manitou Dorado Fork Rebuild
TT #28 - Manitou Circus Fork Rebuild
TT #29 - MRP G2 SL Chain Guide Install
TT #30 - Cane Creek Angleset Installation
TT #31 - RockShox Maxle Lite DH
TT #32 - Find Your Tire Pressure Sweet Spot
TT #33 - Three Minute Bike Preflight Check
TT #34 - MRP XCG Install
TT #35 - Stem Choice and Cockpit Setup
TT #36 - Handlebars - How Wide Affects Your Ride
TT #37 - Repairing A Torn Tire
TT #38 - Coil spring swap
TT #39 - Trailside help: Broken Shift Cable
TT #40 - Installing a Fox Float Air-Volume Spacer
TT #41 - Replace the Seals on Your 2011 RockShox Boxxer World Cup Fork
TT #42 - Clean and Lubricate Your Fox F32 Dust Wiper Seals
TT #43 - Thread Locker Basics
TT #44 - Install a SRAM X.0 Two-By-Ten Crankset
TT #45 - VPP Suspension Bearing Service
TT #46 - Rotor Straightening
TeT #47 - Finding and fixing that creak
TT #48 - Bleed and Service Magura Marta Disc Brakes
TT #49 - Cup and Cone Hub Basics
TT #50 - Install and Adjust Pedal Cleats
TT #51 - Cup and Cone Hub Rebuild
TT #52 - Converting Mavic Crossmax SX Axles
TT #53 - Cassette Removal and Installation
TT #54 - Cane Creek AngleSet Installation
TT #55 - American Classic Tubeless Conversion
TT #56 - Wider Rims Are Better and Why Tubeless Tires Burp Air
TT #57 - Pedal Pin Retrofit
TT #58 - Bleed RockShox Reverb Remote Lines
TT #59 - Cutting Carbon
TT #60 - Silence That Squeaky Disc Brake
TT #61 - Five Minute Wheel True
TT #62 - Removing Bike Rack Rattle
TT #63 - Inside Shimano's Shadow Plus Mech and How To Adjust It
TT #64 - Steerer tube length
TT #65 - Marzocchi 44 Rebuild
TT #66 - RockShox BoXXer TLC
TT #67 - Ghetto Tubeless Tire Inflator
TT # 68 - RockShox BoXXer Seal Replacement

Visit Parktool.com to see their entire lineup of tools and lubes


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185 Comments

  • + 98
 so what ever happened to having your seat high for climbing, getting off the bike, putting the seat down for the fun parts? i used a white sharpie to mark my climb position and descend, how hard and inexpensive is that?
  • + 16
 I couldn't agree more.
  • + 76
 don't use the word ghetto for this contraption. it falls in more with you might be a redneck
  • - 16
flag fullbug (Mar 13, 2012 at 8:13) (Below Threshold)
 funny thing is you could slam it down to the seat collar but it'd still be 3" too tall if you're riding a 29er.
  • + 28
 As I heard from a Pro Enduro rider a while back (Can't remember who) "If you can't manage standing and stomping up a hill for 5 minutes you probably shouldn't be riding Enduro"

That's the attitude I take to my riding.
  • - 3
 I don't know you ride a 30.0 bike ololol.
  • - 5
flag norcorider540 (Mar 13, 2012 at 9:41) (Below Threshold)
 Redneck is when everything is home made, even heavy equiptment. this is not ghetto because its on a bike that cost more than rent in the ghetto, secondly why a cigarette lighter vs toking lighter? would the extra bit of flame used to rip a bowl not help the speed up the shrink wrap process
  • + 9
 Generally nothing, but it's pretty annoying to change the seat's height every two minutes if you're riding a varied terrain... great tuesday!
  • - 37
flag powerline (Mar 13, 2012 at 12:23) (Below Threshold)
 you might be a redneck if you n*gger rig your seatpost
  • + 11
 Ive never heard of a white sharpie
  • + 2
 they make all different colors
  • + 1
 Was rob 'box' cooksley from bad ass bikes in bristol, all round terminator and uk enduro champ last year.
  • + 3
 Pretty sure this is meant more for on the fly riding. not getting on and off your bike... just like a reverb or a joplin.
  • + 2
 so wait it doesnt do crap all it does is limit how far down the seatpost goes.... you still have to get off your bike and undo the quick latch.
  • + 2
 Madmax, picture yourself riding this setup, coasting down a hill or on flat ground. you undo the latch while riding ands it drops to that height, not hard. and when you want it back up, undo latch and pull up, back at the same height it was before you dropped it down. obvioulsy you have to be able to take one hand of your bars to accomlpish this.
  • + 5
 hmm seems viable maybe on a bike that you dont care about that much.. like your old hardtail or something. However to my logic if your spending $3000-5000 for a trail or AM bike you might as well scrounge up another $250 for a proper dropping seat post. it pays for itself in happiness 10x over if you ride trails that have a lot of little ups and downs instead of one big climb and an epic downhill.
  • + 7
 not to mention you won't get sued by Red Green for stealing his ideas.
  • + 51
 Got to love the ghetto home made stuff, who needs a 300 dollar seat post.
  • + 146
 People who like things that work.
  • + 8
 If you have the money why not get the best?
  • + 75
 I'tll be more reliable than a Jolpin
  • + 5
 I'll stay with my Reverb thanks...
  • + 3
 Seems like the forums are full of people wondering why their reverb doesn't work.
  • + 21
 Exactly what I'm Talking about. The only reason I ride up is to get to the fun down. at which point I rest a bit, take a drink, put my seat down and ride all the way down.
  • + 11
 Richard - Why didn't you acknowledge the Hite Rite? I believe back in the day you liked the idea. I'd say it needs to be back in production. Wouldn't you?
  • + 7
 I did give Hite-Rite a plug. I guess you missed the link on the first sentence. Life is short, gotta make it fun. RC
  • + 4
 I've still got a Hite-Rite! Only it sits in the toolbox now because it punched me in the ass too many times when I was re-extending it.
  • + 0
 Sera, that depends on what you call working. *cough* Joplin and early reverbs. For sure this won't require bleeding or being sent in for warranty and it is pretty much bomb proof.

For $5 it definitively isn't as slick, but i've used a collar before to do this and the cable height limiter is great improvement. It takes a lot of the guess work out of how high you had the seat after you've finished dropping or descending. I'm going to try this out while i wait for the new dropper posts to mature. Smile

Also all of these products suck if you have to be removing the seat post. Which I have todo to get the frame inside a small car.
  • + 1
 I need ons....
  • - 5
flag seraph (Mar 13, 2012 at 11:27) (Below Threshold)
 Mr. London, removing a dropper post is as easy as removing a regular post. Just pull the post out. Simple. Real mountain bikers have trucks anyway lol
  • + 1
 Or they live in europe and trucks are as scares as labradoodle
  • - 5
flag seraph (Mar 13, 2012 at 11:46) (Below Threshold)
 Scarce? Or Scared. Not sure what you mean there...
  • + 1
 I have no use for a truck and for a good chunk of the year here riders put their bicycles in their car because road salt gets everywhere.

Granted you never remove your seatpost, but wouldn't that thing dangle around(haha!) and cause annoyance when removed?

Looking again one couldn't even remove their seatpost after installing Richard's patent pending Chinese seatpost trap. Smile
  • + 0
 What thing? The cable? When would it dangle around? In the car? That wouldn't cause annoyance at all. Who cares if it flops around while you're not riding it?
  • - 1
 If you've got a 400mm seatpost dangling off your frame i'm thinking it's going to get annoying pulling the frame in and out of a trunk. Plus you can't even run the cable tight because you'd need play to slide the post in and out, so now you have extra cable flopping around.

I assume you're just guessing it wouldn't cause an annoyance or have you actually done the above every time you go riding?
  • - 3
 I own a truck.
  • + 1
 London, why do you need to remove the post? Cant you just drop it all the way down?
  • + 1
 Unfortunately it doesn't quite fit in with the post all the way down(cranks hit). I thought about this before and with these new stealth posts I think it might even get more strange. I def'n want to keep the bike in the car as it saves me a bit on fuel and keeps the bike cleaner/safer. Maybe one day i'll fork out for a bicycle rack.
  • + 20
 True ghetto for low-cost and very low weight:

1 strip of velcro on your saddle.
1 strip of velcro on your riding shorts.
1 bar mounted cable release for your seatpost QR.
Infinite height adjustment. Your legs are the return spring. Probably 50g for the whole thing, and $30. Never breaks.

(yes i'm kidding. but it's as plausible as anything else out on the market right now... :\)
  • + 3
 THAT, was cool. RC
  • + 2
 How about an article on ghetto cards in my spokes, I can't be the only one struggling, my throat gets sore from going "BRAP BRAP" all day long! Please help Richard!!!
  • + 20
 Hell yeah. If they ever re-make Macguyver, you need to apply for the role.
  • + 15
 Nice article Pinkbike...Definitely something to try while I'm still waiting for the snow to melt.
  • - 16
flag ASPOCKALIPS801 (Mar 13, 2012 at 0:29) (Below Threshold)
 I feel like a drugged out homeless guy thought that one up. Ghetto is right! If your really about a drop post then I would hope you could spend a little extra. Really think how it would look your on a 2,000 plus bike with some ghetto rigged up drop seat? Come on!
  • - 26
flag fedz (Mar 13, 2012 at 3:06) (Below Threshold)
 Exactly !

Oh my ! Come on RC, who the hell is going to ride around alongside their pals with this junk strapped to their bike ?

This is rock-bottom !
  • + 12
 @ aspockalips801, who cares how it looks, as long as the owner of the bike likes it. people care too much about what other people think these days.
  • + 4
 A lot of people are riding used bikes they spent $500 on and aren't going to be able to drop another 250 on a less than reliable reverb or other expensive dropper post. This might do it for them. Beats what my buddy does: stands up for the whole ride.
  • + 40
 Too many people on here clearly have no realisation that to the majority of riders the money required for even a basic dropper post is simply too much. If you're young and have lots of your own (or your parents) disposable income then it may well be fine but if you've got a family/kids/mortgage etc, spending £/$300 for your own selfish desires isn't something you can do. To some, that's six months of fuel to go riding. Yeah, this isn't going to be as neat or as nice to use as a gravity dropper/reverb etc but come on, people have been doing things like this for years (especially for the Mega), it's not new, and it's one of the great things about the sport - the ability to find your own ways to do things.

Some people are lucky enough to live in a bubble of money whilst others need to make do with what's available to them.
  • + 7
 Can't look any worse than a Gravity Dropper.
  • + 1
 This is something that could work for some riders, I just have the locations marked on the post, score it on with a knife or something... For me, the real pain is having to actually get off the bike, undo the QR etc etc, so this wouldn't really solve that for me. The real benefit of the dropper post is to be able to do this on the fly without getting off, so I won't bother until I can afford one.
  • + 9
 Search Fleabay for a Hite Rite. Ghetto and retro at the same time! We had one in the shop for the longest time and had a beer bet on who could sell it. No one claimed it the 3 years I worked there
  • + 11
 baha!... this is actually really sick
  • + 9
 My middle name is Macguyver but this one is a bit much...


****take a spring from a fork like a coil Totem, spring load that beyatch
  • + 2
 I was thinking more along the lines of a super skinny fork, and putting a spring inside the seat tube!
  • + 2
 ha ha --- yeah. that could work too.


chuckle ---- l bet if the frame had holes for a water bottle cage, that could be worked into the set up --- it would substitute as a means to hold the spring in place, then you'd just have to figure out a way to create a stopper for the portion of the spring which goes into the seatpost ---- of course, you could do this with a Thomson post (dang it). and l bet it would rattle a bit OR get stuck when compressed --- ok ---- l think l'm officially a bike nerd, thinking waaaay too much about this silly subject.


speaking of Macguyver-ism --- just wait to l post a new way to mount a GoPro to the tail end of the shop demo.

stay tuned
  • + 1
 you could fit a spring between the collars
  • + 9
 I dont get the hate for this, sounds like a cheap solution that would actually work out well.
  • + 6
 Exactly how hard is it to mark the seat post with a couple permanent marker or sandpaper lines in the shaft to know your full extension height when pulling it back up again?! I mark all my seatposts with a sharpie so i know its always at the right height again after I lower/raise it while out riding. For a "couple" uses in a ride, that's all you need.

As another mentioned... OR you could just buy a hite-rite... since they can be adapter to virtually any size of seatpost.
  • + 2
 Because sitting and looking for a mark on your seat tube can cost precious moments that aren't always afforded in timed events.
  • + 0
 I had a Hite-Rite back in the day. weighed, it about three pounds.
  • + 7
 Go ghetto or go home. Imo If you ain't got at least one piece of ghettoism on your bike you can't call your self a true mountain biker. After all that's how the sport was invented. Keep em coming RC.
  • + 9
 Reminds me of something I would do if I were 14 again. Those were the days of home made chain guides and brake boosters.
  • + 7
 Best option is just to put a boxxer spring in your seatpost too then it springs back up
  • + 1
 haha i was thinking that lol
  • + 5
 About that Boxxer spring. I believe that it could be done like this....
www.pinkbike.com/photo/7830790
RC
  • + 1
 ^^^ nice!! I might just try that
  • + 3
 hold on surly the whole point of the dropper post is that you don't have to stop to raise the post is it not??
that is the only reason why i want one, i did the mega avalanche last year and up to that point always said waist of money. but when you have a track and a race when your peddle, DH, peddle, DH peddle etc etc time is waited in lifting the seat dropping it is easy part. and with this you still have to stop and lift the seat so again is there any point???
  • + 2
 THANK YOU. If you have actually used an on the fly dropper, you would never , ever, want to stop to drop the seat again. The bar mounted lever brings a whole new level of flow to your ride, esp if you riding a familiar trail. I know the point is that it offers a cheap alternative but there is really no comparison here. The post doesnt aid in hammering up a hill out of a saddle, (that someone mocked earlier) as much as preparing for a gnarley drop or fun jump section. I know they are 300+ for some of the new ones, but I found a command post for 100.00 shipped like new. I'll never give up my REAL dropper.
  • + 1
 i have not used one yet but have seen the use for one in a race such as the mega where you need to drop and raise your post. i have seen one for around £80-90so cant wait to try one out now Smile
  • + 3
 I was thinking of finding a way to put a spring in the frame so it takes pressure to push my seat down (I can do that by sitting down) and pops up automatically when I lift up and pull the clamp.

Still doesn't seem worth it. The seat will twist and I'll have to get off to fix it.
  • + 2
 Seems really excessive for something that pretty much Makes your seat go to the same 2 heights. You could always do a reflector and a line- since you have to get off the bike anyways and save about an hour of time and the cost of materials
  • + 3
 Thats not a bad idea - I think a lot of folks arent considering that you're going to be dropping / raising your post while riding - with one hand.

How about an invention to keep the seat post straight when you raise it?
  • + 4
 If you flip the reflector collar 180 degrees, you should be able to loop your cable around the bolt of your seatpost clamp instead of around your frame. Just a thought.
  • + 6
 Naw - thought of that. You'd just pull the seat clamp off when you went for full extension. RC
  • + 1
 Ahh, of course. And that's why you get paid to do this and I don't. Wink
  • + 5
 I would never try this personally but... awesome shadetree mechanic action RC.
  • + 1
 This is cool and seems fun to make on a rainy day or something- design is simple and decent, but i just don't see how it can be practical. You're still going to have to get off the bike to return it to xc position, and while putting it in either position there is nothing to ensure the seat will be lined up straight; so it seems to me just getting off for a second is just as quick and half as complicated. Also some bikes (at least mine) has the cables run along under the top tube, so there's no place to put the "up-leash".
  • + 1
 Just a few tips on possible material substitutions that might make this Ghetto easier:

Instead of copper tube for crimps, use aluminum sleeves, available at almost any hardware store:

www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/3/HouseHome/Hardware/ChainCableAccessories/PRD~0618110P/KingChain+Aluminum+Sleeve.jsp?locale=en

Also, using a vinyl coated aircraft cable (available by the foot at almost any hardware store) instead of deraileur cable and housing. Will be a couple bucks cheaper, and might be easier to get at the hardware store vs. the LBS (ie. if the hardware store has better hours or is closer to home).
  • + 1
 That was hilarious.. You might as well just shove a spring down the seat tube.. Surely anyone who has a few thousand dollar bike can afford to save up for a dropper seat post if it didn't already come with one. Plus you might as well just do without this contraption because it still requires you to unclamp and clamp up your QR.. Its amazing what a bit of crack will dream up.. haha
  • + 1
 Well here in Guatemala oue terrain is very weird, you go down for like 1minute and then up again for 10 or so, this kind of thing will very helpful because its cheap and easy to make, here the parts and accesories for mtb are more expensive! (sorry for my bas english, its not my native lengauge)
  • + 1
 This is a good idea if someone doesn't care about looks, and just wants something that will work. Also, instead of copper tubing, there are the alloy sleeves you can buy at canadian tire (like $2), that you put the cable through and hammer closed. If you have enough area to lay your bike down, and work around the frame, the sleeves are much better than the copper tubing, at holding the cable, as they come in diameter specific sizing.....But I guess copper tubing works too! Razz
  • + 1
 I'm not knocking the design - it seems like a simple and effective solution. The problem I see with it (and other solutions like the Hite Rite) is that you're going to be constantly pulling grease out with the seatpost, contaminating that grease with dirt, and then shoving it all back into the frame. That sounds like a creaking nightmare to me. Do you clean and reapply grease after every ride?
  • + 1
 This is not much different then putting some marks on the post. I did expect something that worked with a spring and was adjustable without getting of the bike like a simple homemade version of the the first non hydraulic ones. But nice guide though.
  • + 1
 Doing this already, but with a very thin soft rope. Useds first angling wire, but that knotted to difficult Smile

Why ? Hate the weight of the dropperpost going up the mountain, no lifts and its part of the game to start at 1200m bike to 3000m and descent again.
  • + 1
 What you need to do is figure out a way to make the seat straight everytime... This is a cool idea but would drive me crazy not being perfectly straight, basically making it so I would have to stop and do it right the first time.
  • + 1
 I know I am adding to an old post Smile but I am making up this x2 this weekend. plus adding those little gas shock things that are used to hold open tool boxes etc with a few lathed down bits of plastic to do the raising up part.

its too easy.

if someone comes up with a cable actuated qr clamp, its done, 35-40$ seat dropper setup.
  • + 1
 Sorry, I just see the cable for the "up limit" just binding up all the time and not allowing you to fully extend as well as messing a nice frame up. I think a sharpie is only gonna cost me a buck and not so much work to get to the same goal....
  • + 1
 great idea guys!
I see a lot of people saying that marking your seat post is the way to go - but i think you're missing that with this method you dont have to stop rolling - which is ideal for XC stuff. The only problem i see is that it might take a lot of practice to be able to do this while not stopping and keep your seat straight. But im sure you guys are working on that for v2.0 Wink
  • + 2
 Just add an old DH fork spring or two in the seat tube and it'll go up when you release the QR lever, for even more ghetto-functionality.

^Edit: I'm about the billionth to think of this after seeing this article
  • + 2
 Is this an April Fools joke?!

What kind of trails are you riding where you can take a hand off of the handlebar to work the seatpost QR? Surely that'll slow you down way more than the extra weight of a proper dropper post.
  • + 4
 Just buy a Hite Rite if you want to do it that way.
  • + 4
 ghetto all the tech tuesdays!!!!
  • + 2
 ha.....ghetto XT brake bleed. ....use piss and camelback tube to firm up your hydros.

or Ghetto Trailside Fork rebuild.......tear off a chunk of lycra spandex from your shorts and with a stick, poke it into your Judy damper to "get-o" the boing back in your blown fork leg. We could call it Tech Getuesday
  • + 1
 I'm already well ahead of these guys, my seat clamp has fallen apart so instead of going buying a new one I've managed sort the problem with a bit of newspaper. Now that's how to save money...
  • + 4
 Nice thinking outside the box - but no thanks.
  • + 1
 agreed. I like the thinking but I will not try this. reaching down to switch a lever, then making sure the seat is still pointing forward, then closing the lever and all that on a bumpy trail....sounds like crash waiting to happen. I support your innovative spirit though. That cable tether is mint.
  • + 4
 Add spring and you have a true dropper!
  • + 3
 Didn't Joe breeze have this idea on his breeze bikes back in the 90's? That had a spring attached
  • + 3
 Joe Breeze designed the Hite Rite
  • + 1
 The original dropper - apparently it needs to come back.
www.bikepro.com/arch_products/seatposts/ahiter.html
  • + 1
 why does kona make a 30.0mm seat post and not the normal size? Does any company make a dropper post for a kona 30.0mm seat post?
  • + 2
 Kona's 2012 models are coming with a 31.6 mm seat tube. You can take a 27.2 dropper from KS, XFusion, GD or RASE and fit it with a 30-27.2 adapter. I use a KS i7r with Cane Creek adapter on my Kona and it works fine.
  • + 1
 2011 operator is 31.6 as well
  • + 1
 This has been one of the most entertaining threads to date. Thank you Tech Tuesday!! This an early April 1st PB joke, isn't it???
  • + 1
 This does nothing. Why not loosen the collar and pull the seat up until it hits your ass or drop it until it slams. Same system, no money and no "inventing".

Sheesh.
  • + 1
 Good idea nice looking seatpost but accessory only...too bad you can't teach us how to make hydraulic mechanism, I will watch out for thatSmile
  • + 2
 guess they don't consider not everyone has these tools in hand... that adds to the cost if you don't have those.
  • + 1
 how about putting a spring in the seat tube to to set the return height. you could stand up flip the lever open and closed and be set to climb again.
  • + 4
 video !!!
  • + 1
 I do a similar thing with a cable lock I picked up at my local Poundland. Cost me one quid, and only took a few secs. I will def incorporate the 2nd seat clap idea though.
  • + 1
 Nice idea but my QR post is so bad that I need to get off my bike to open it. No way is this possible on the fly for me at least
  • + 3
 Rock Shox won't like what you are showing there Pinkbike.. Wink
  • + 3
 What a total crock of sh!t.
  • + 3
 This truly qualifies for Ghetto..
  • + 3
 The best part of Tech Tuesday was watching it......... Frown
  • + 1
 Try putting the cable from the loop to the post through a solid hollow tube so you push it back up easily. Try using the copper pipe like suggested to use for the other parts
  • + 1
 hmm, what if you would put a big spring inside the seat post tube so after releasing and taking weight off the seat would go up Big Grin
  • + 1
 I dont see why everyone is being negative about this. It actually looks cool and seems very effective. Spend the extra money elsewhere.
  • + 1
 i think this is a great idea, but it would be great to have this tech tuesday in video form, just a suggestion Wink
  • + 1
 i missed the part where this keeps your saddle pointing forward without having to readjust it.
  • + 2
 Where's the Hite Rite spring?
  • + 2
 we need to install a spring so it can raise back up on the fly!?!
  • + 1
 Hite Rite - already did it, nearly 20 years ago.
  • + 2
 use a 32mm fork spring, it would rest on top of the bb... there ya go!
  • + 1
 instead of having it wrapped around the frame why not just connect it to the bolt in the seat clamp? makes more sense to me!
  • - 2
 any healthy rider should be able to reach down and adjust seatpost on the fly. I been doing that since back in the road racing days. Some people need gimiks and gadgets to keep them "progressing". The only thing they had right was putting the seatclamp facing forward for quick reach downs.
  • + 0
 what you do is, don't fully tighten your seat clamp, then when your riding along its ok but when you want to drop it just sit on it really hard. hey presto
  • + 1
 and then it creaks and eventually busts the seat tube....
  • + 0
 Haha jeez some people on here take stuff wayyy too seriously, was just saying it for the funnies and would obviously never do what i suggested, keyboard warrior.
  • - 1
 this site is full of tool's handing out bogus advice, just keeping tabs on it. put a lol next time
  • + 0
 haha take a joke...lol
  • + 2
 smart but ill stay with my ks dropzone
  • + 3
 pikey
  • + 1
 maybe it's just because it's early, but this thing doesn't actually get itself up does it?
  • + 1
 Dont forget to put an old fork coil spring in the seat tube so itwil pop back up!!
  • - 1
 Seriously???...
Just save the money up and buy a real one...
A quality dropper like a RockShox Reverb is a fantastic upgrade that'll change your all-mountain riding for the better!
  • + 1
 Don't hate on it because you don't like it. It's not like people are forcing you to use it.
  • + 1
 Sweet ghetto job! I use an old breezer hite-rite on one rig, found it at a bike co-op!
  • + 1
 ghetto cane creek double barrel service next?
  • + 1
 drop the word ghetto very low brow
  • + 1
 Now i know why so many people come in and ask me for reflectors at work...
  • + 1
 hahaha that is just fucking beautiful.
  • + 1
 i love it im making one right now.
  • + 1
 Could you add a spring inside the seat tube to make the dropper pop up
  • + 1
 This is just.plain.wrong.
  • + 1
 how do you hold the seat up & close the clamp at the same time ?
  • + 1
 Looks like something I'd use
  • + 1
 Putting the ghetto back in ghetto.
  • + 0
 Really dissapointed this even took somebodies time…especially mine. Getto tubeless I get….this is a joke though.
  • + 1
 so it isnt remote or anything, it just limits the height of you saddle...
  • + 1
 May have to fire one of these up since I'm not a trust-fund kid.
  • + 0
 next time with tech tuesday make a video, no one can be bothered reading chap!
  • - 3
 Nice idea and i'm always a fan of 'the creative'. But if funding a dropper is an issue for you, just get your post at the RIGHT height for all your riding. should be about 2 inch lower than full leg extension. Works for me anyway....
  • - 3
 You still have to stop to undo the seat clamp, you have to pull the post up by hand and make sure up junk bunk is straight, and tighten the clamp back up. DOES THIS MAKE ALL NORMAL/ CONVENTIONAL SEAT POSTS 'GETTO DROPPERS ? ( umm guess that height indicator marks on posts are too difficult to grasp for some. GET A PROPER ONE OR JUST DONT BOTHER IMO.
  • + 5
 No, the idea (as RC stated) is that you can manipulate your seat-height while riding. I have buddies who are very good at opening their seat clamp and adjusting the seat height while we are coasting down an easier section of the trail. RC's idea makes this easier to get the seat to the correct height (squeeze seat with thighs to raise the saddle up) with this technique.
  • + 3
 i agree with OswestSte - the fact that you still have to undo the seat clamp just makes this pointless
  • + 0
 The fact that you have to take both hands off the bars as you prepare to ATTACK a quick downhill section to make up time , defeats the purpose of putting the seat down to begin with . even when shopping for my dropper, I purposely avoided the saddle levered ones for this reason. I think there is a general clash of riding styles driving these arguments against each other here. XC vs AM/FR
  • + 2
 Fucking wank ...
  • + 1
 1 hour? more like 10 minutes!
  • + 0
 You don't use a Reverb because your seat is never in the right place. This misses the point completely, and it's stupid.
  • + 1
 Creative, but a waste of time.
  • + 1
 RC can you upload a video of it in action! Would be interesting to see..
  • + 1
 Great concept, Im sure it works in a pinch.
  • + 1
 I don't get it...
  • + 1
 what a ghetto hack job.
  • + 0
 this is pretty awesome. Thanks for the how-to!! definitely going to try it
  • + 1
 waste of a tech tuesday
  • + 0
 this would work great on my rigid single spreed. Good one RC!
  • - 2
 MO-MONEY, MO-MONEY, MO-MONEY. SON I BE FLIPPEN THEM REVERBS OUT OF MY POCKETS !!
  • + 0
 Tw@t
  • + 1
 aahh that hurts, right here ♥
  • - 1
 Dropper post for weight weenies? This plus a carbon post.
  • - 2
 i didnt see a tick box for "that is the worst idea i have ever seen"?
maybe they should add one.
  • - 3
 Seems a bit silly.
  • + 5
 not at all
  • + 1
 I simply used the measurements on my post and knew what setting to put it at for whatever I was going over. I used about 4 different settings for the rocky terrain out here in AZ. 2 settings is just not enough for me I guess. Then I got a KS dropper and never looked back. I guess if 2 settings works for you, why not? It's just not for me.
  • - 3
 holy fuck thats genius
  • + 7
 Log out, turn of your computer, go to bed and think about what you have just done.
  • + 3
 lmao! ^^ Ty, thats what I was thinking. Haha.
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