ENVE debuted their new M Series lineup of wheels earlier this year, with the range consisting of four options that are all designed to suit the varying needs of different riders. The M60 Forty wheelset reviewed here is a step in a more all around direction than their cross-country race inspired M50 Fifty wheels, and ENVE's naming convention implies how they are intended to be used: 60% down and 40% up. In other words, the M60 Forty wheelset is your do-it-all option that, at 1,495 grams for the 29er rims laced to DT Swiss' 240 Center Lock hubs, is still feathery enough to not hold back even the most serious of cross-country racers out there. The wispy weight figure doesn't mean that the M60s sport an old school, anorexic rim shape, though, as their 23mm internal width is wider than a lot of contemporary rims on the market, and their 32mm height and 29mm external width certainly have them looking like they're ready for battle. ENVE says that a bare M60 rim weighs 397 grams in 29er form, or 347 grams for the 27.5'' version, and that manufacturing the rims and assembling the wheels at their Ogden, Utah, facility gives them maximum control over the $2718 USD finished product that comes with the assurance of a five year warranty and a lifetime crash replacement policy. |
M60 Forty wheelset
• Intended use: XC/ trail / enduro • Rim: 397 grams (29''), 347 grams (27.5'') • Rim width: 23mm internal, 29mm external • Diameter: 29'', 27.5'' • Hookless rim bead • Handmade in Ogden, Utah • Hubs: DT Swiss 240 • Spokes: 28, 32 (tested) • Weight: 1,495 grams (29er w/ DT Swiss 240) • MSRP $2718 USD
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U.S. Made Carbon Fiber RimThe big talking point with the M60 wheelset is obviously ENVE's handmade carbon rims that are constructed at their factory in the United States, and while them being handmade isn't really anything to brag about (
carbon rims, frames and other bits are laid up by hand, after all), the fact that they're manufactured at their own factory plays a big role in the $999 USD retail price for each rim. That approach does give them quite a lot of control over the finished product, as it not only allows them to have better quality control than they would if they went the overseas route, but also the ability to make quick changes to the carbon layup on a rim for either production or prototype units. This is highlighted by rumors that ENVE was supplying the Santa Cruz Syndicate team with a radical downhill rim to be used with equally radical and very custom tubular tires. No word on if we'll see anything of the such in the near future, but, if true, it underlines what ENVE is both capable of and willing to do. In the same vein, ENVE actually produces four very different carbon rims that, while looking similar to each other, are actually quite unique.
The M60 rim is 23mm wide internally, which is 2mm wider than the lighter and more cross-country oriented M50, and 2mm skinnier than the enduro focused M70. ''
Rim width is determined by pairing each rim model with the predominant tire widths used for the defined ride application,'' ENVE explains. ''
By optimizing the rim and tire interface, handling predictability and traction are improved.'' It isn't just the dimensions that set each model of rim apart, though, as they also each sport a unique carbon layup compared to the others, with the idea being to tune both the amount of vertical compliance and lateral rigidity to how each rim is intended to be used. Impact resistance also comes into play, and the downhill oriented M90s have a different makeup compared to the M60s that won't likely see the same sort of abuse.
Giving the rim a closer look reveals two things: one, there's no hook shape to the rim bead. And two, there doesn't appear to be any nipples. There are nipples, of course, but they're located inside the rim rather where you'd usually spot them. ENVE explained that going with an internal nipple design "
produces a more consistent build, and a stronger structure. This process yields a superior build quality and virtually eliminates the need to true the wheel assuming the builder does a thorough and quality build." It also means that you can't perform a quick wheel truing, however, as you'll have to pull the tire and rim tape off in order to access the socket heads of the nipples. The rim's nipple holes have been designed with this in mind, and ENVE has actually molded each hole in place rather than drilling them through after the fact. The hookless design is also said to allow for a rim that is easier to manufacture consistently to the exact same size, as well as make for a stronger finished product due to the sidewall being quite thick throughout its entire height rather than having to have a hook shape.
The M60 wheelset is clearly a premium item, so it's not a surprise that the two hub options to choose from are equally high-end: either Chris King (
$2750 USD), DT Swiss 240s, or the ceramic bearing equipped 180s (
$3298 USD, M50, 60, 70 only) if you prefer Swiss over American. Those who want to go with Center Lock rotors have that option if they choose the 240s, and all are available with either 28 or 32 bladed spokes.
On The TrailThe M60s likely saw more tires mounted to them than any other wheelset I've had under me thanks to both changing conditions and me having a number of different rubber options to review. This includes a set of Schwalbe's Hans Dampf and Nobby Nic tires, a single Magic Mary up front, a set of Specialized's Purgatorys, and some XR4s from Bontrager, all of which felt like they fit just a touch tighter than on most other rims. It wasn't to the point of me losing my temper and throwing things, but I will admit to reaching for a set of plastic tire levers when it came time to install brand new rubber. I'd personally much prefer a slightly tight fit that gives me confidence that I won't pull a bead off mid-corner than a loose fitting interface, but that's me, so I'm okay with the snug connection. I also used the supplied tubeless rim tape from ENVE, which appears to just be Gorilla Tape from your local hardware store but in the correct width so you don't need to trim it down, as well as the long tubeless valve stems that are included. We've come a long way from the early days of tubeless tires that saw us making trips to the compressor with a spray bottle full of soapy water and safety glasses on, and all of the tires sealed up and seated with basically zero issues while using only a floor pump, which might be a big deal for anyone who's had to clean Stan's sealant off of everything within twenty feet of where they were standing.
The DT Swiss hubs at the center of my M60 test wheels sport Shimano's splined Center Lock rotor system but the XTR Trail brakes on my bike feature standard six-hole rotors, which means that I had to employ the Center Lock adapters that come with the wheels. These couldn't be any simpler: just slide the adapter down onto the splines, fit the rotors onto the six posts, and then tighten down the lock ring. I've literally had more trouble pouring myself a bowl of cereal than installing the rotors and Center Lock adapters onto the DT Swiss hubs, although they did give me some trouble down the road...
Big deal, the tires and rotors go on fine. It's how they feel on they perform on the trail that really counts, right? Of course it is, and while a lot of wheels can feel somewhat invisible so long as they tick off all of the requirements that we ask for these days, the M60s certainly standout as being noticeably different under me, and I mean that in both positive and negative ways. Let's hit on what I like about them first, though.
These things are light, especially when you factor in their 23mm internal width, and because of that they feel pretty damn sporty on the climbs and out of corners, especially when you compare them to a heavier (
and admittedly much less expensive) aluminum rimmed wheelset. It's not like you're going to be a gear higher everywhere on your ride or crush your local pro's KOM times, but they certainly do feel peppy all around. Just for reference sake, SRAM's carbon Roam 60s sport a skinnier 21mm internal width and a heavier 1,650 gram total weight, while Mavic's aluminum Crossmax SLs are even skinnier at 19mm but with a 1,530 gram weight (
but don't require rim tape). Neither of those options are too shabby for their intentions by any means, but they make the M60s, with their 23mm internal width and 1,496 gram weight, look pretty appealing if you're a numbers guy. The relatively low weight doesn't mean that the M60s feel like they're going to fold over every time you hold it open through a corner or happen to land a touch more sideways than how you took off, with just the opposite being the case - these things are supremely stiff. They're so flex-free that they made my already torsionally rigid bike feel like it had somewhere between zero and zilch millimeters of deflection, which clearly is one of the reasons that they feel so snappy and alive.
And what about any reliability issues? Nothing to report on this front, although the rear wheel did drop enough spoke tension over the first few months to have them pinging and popping under heavy pedalling loads, which would have been a quickly solved issue if it wasn't for the fact that I had to remove my freshly tubeless'd tire in order to access the internally located nipples. This is a royal pain in the ass, although I do appreciate the use of bladed spokes that allow me to grab ahold of each one during the operation in order to prevent spoke wind-up. The rims are certainly looking well used these days, with the large white ENVE decals peeling and scraped off in small spots, but the carbon itself shows no signs of buying the farm. I've seen ENVE rims crack in the past, just like I've seen a broken example of pretty much every other rim out there, but at $999 USD per rim, I feel like the ENVEs should be pretty much indestructible. Nothing is unbreakable, of course, but the M60 rims have brushed off everything I've thrown them at.
| The relatively low weight doesn't mean that the M60s feel like they're going to fold over every time you hold it open through a corner or happen to land a touch more sideways than how you took off, with just the opposite being the case - these things are supremely stiff. |
The vertical, non-hooked rim bead proved to me that traditional hooked rims do absolutely nothing to keep the tire on, with zero burping to report after months and months of use. The 23mm internal width no doubt helps matters on this front, especially with wider tires like the Hans Dampf and the super aggressive Magic Marry, and I couldn't even get them to release any pressure or sealant when run as low as 18 PSI. I pulled the front tire right off the bead of a competitor's slightly skinnier aluminum rim at 20 PSI while on the face of a jump just before swapping over to the M60s, a moment that led to a rather interesting flight pattern and ''landing'', but the ENVEs had my confidence back in short order and I never even had a hint of trouble.
IssuesThere's a lot to like about the M60s, but their price tag and U.S. made origins doesn't mean perfection, however, as I have a few issues to grumble about. Lets get right to my main criticism: these wheels are stiff and unforgiving. I'm well aware that many riders complain about wimpy wheels that feel like they're going to taco under them, especially those who don't shy away from an extra slice of cake or sign up for the Clydesdale class when they race, but the M60s feel like they could be almost a bit too far in the other direction. That's my observation after doing back-to-back tests on the same trails, riding the same bike, and with the same tires inflated to the same pressure on two different sets of aluminum rimmed wheelsets, and while many would say that you can't have a stiff enough set of wheels, handlebar, frame or whatever else, that's a complete delusion in my books. This is especially true when you're talking about a short-travel bike, with the ENVE wheelset feeling a touch harsher on my cross-country rig than other, more traditional options. This was most noticeable when the bike was either leaned over through a choppy corner, or when crossing rough, off-camber sections of trail, and I'd liken it to feeling as if there was an extra few PSI in my tires than what I'd ideally want. It's also best not to forget that your spare tube will either need to have a longer than normal valve stem or be supplemented by a valve extender - it'd be a shame to be way out there when you realize that you can't fix your flat.
The M60s saw some pretty rowdy terrain, and while the rims themselves came through with flying colours, the rear wheel did lose a bunch of spoke tension after several months of charging on them. That in itself isn't really a big issue, but I don't feel like I should have to take my tires off when the time does come to true or add tension to them, especially because pretty much all the tires that I fit to the M60s felt to be a touch tighter on them than some other rims. The internal nipples make for a clean look, I'll give ENVE that, but I much rather be able to tension and true them at a moment's notice, especially if it's required during a road trip.
DT Swiss' hubs have always been a favourite of mine, which is why I was so bummed to find out that their Center Lock rotor adapters do a better job of annoying the hell out of me than doing their actual job. Firstly, the lock rings want to back off, even when torqued correctly and with a touch of Loctite applied to the threads, which is obviously far from ideal. No, they never
backed way off, but they did loosen up enough that I'd make sure to check them once or twice a week, which isn't acceptable. Even more irritating, though, is how the adapter's fit onto the splined mount is sloppy enough that the entire assembly, rotor included, shifts slightly when you grab a handful of brake. This is undoubtedly connected to the lock rings backing off, but it would occur regardless of if I just tightened them up, and felt sort of like a loose headset on the trail. I'd rather go with the six-hole DT Swiss 240 hub option from ENVE and buy new rotors than deal with these cheesy adapters, and I suspect most of you would feel the same after dealing with them.
Tire held air and the rim held up.
It's not all the doom and gloom you all want to paint it.
While they may cover their defect in workmanship and replace the wheels, what about them picking up any other costs? Damage to the bike, which is not expensive in most cases, but what about possible broken bones? Are they going to cover my medical expenses (not even bringing pain and suffering into this debate) for a product failure that they clearly accept as being their defect? I have to concur with @FlowMasterO in the fact that I would rather keep my face out of the dirt and reduce the possible risk of injury from a product that made it to the market place with a manufacturing flaw, which is why I still run aluminum rims.
I have a set of Light-Bicycle rims on the way, Save a little over 1/2 lb in the rims alone over FlowEx.
Light Bicycle with DT Swiss 240s Straight Pull hubs and DT Competition Straight Pull spokes
Procore (200 grams ea.)
2.25 Schwalbe Hans Dampfs (680 grams ea.)
Light Bicycle with DT Swiss 350 Straight Pull hubs (6-hole Disc brake IS, 264g RW with XD 11) and DT Competition Straight Pull spokes w/ Brass Nipples
Procore (200 grams ea.)
2.25 Schwalbe Hans Dampfs (680 grams ea.)
I wonder how this is possible though, uphills always feel sooo much longer than downhills
If you wanna have fun, read that: www.velovert.com/information/9171/exit-geax-vittoria-du-pneu-a-la-roue
If you don't speak french then you're lucky cause that means you can't read velovert.com
The best part of it being that producing 1m2 of graphene would cost about 600 billion € (yes they say that...). So either a wheel will retail for about several million €, or you need very very little of graphene to revolutionize the carbon, or.... it's like homeophaty: it's all in your head.
But I fully agree with you carbon is no wonder material. There is no way in hell a set of enve wheels is worth it, no matter how nice they ride. 1000$ just for the rim! No offence to anyone, but you need to be insane/stupid to buy that.
But people HAVE been reporting more problems as carbon rims have gotten lighter, especially with the M series ENVE. It's like anything else: the first production models were overbuilt, then they got it down to a more normal weight, & now they're trying to make them so light the lose durability, both as a product differentiation tactic, & for those users who can live with replacing a rim every once in a while if it means they can shave weight.
Heck, they made some road brake levers back in the day that were so light that people were bending them just using the brakes, but they were probably lighter than anything you might see today.
As to bling parts, you nailed it. Nobody needs it, but everybody wants it. We wouldn't be on this website reading reviews otherwise...
m60 : strength to weight ratio = 6:4
m70 : strength to weight ratio = 7:3
m90 : strength to weight ratio = 9:1
basically the first number indicates the primary use of the wheel. the bigger that number, the more aimed it is at downhill.
TL;DR: not much as presented, and the ENVE naming scheme has little to do with it.
"Strength-to-weight ratio" is a bit of a misleading term; the only unitless ratio you could get out of it is (force applied to some arbitrary location at failure): (weight of the rim). But where is this force applied? What if we only consider a very tiny section of the rim; surely the force at failure will remain the same, while the "strength-to-weight ratio" can be arbitrarily increased by considering smaller and smaller rim sections. Hence, you can't rattle off unitless ratios for different ENVE rims and expect them to mean anything.
Instead, consider the "specific strength" of a material, a.k.a. (force per unit area at failure)/(density). This is typically what people refer to with "strength-to-weight ratio", but you need to consider units. For reference, concrete has a specific strength of 5.22 kN*m/kg, paper ranges from ~35 kN*m/kg to ~180 kN*m/kg, carbon-epoxy composite has 785 kN*m/kg, and pure carbon fiber has 2457 kN*m/kg. Note that 1 kN*m/kg = 1 kPa/(kg/m^3). [1, 2, 3]
So, does a strength-to-weight ratio of 1:1 mean a specific strength of 1 kN*m/kg? Such a rim would crumple/explode as soon as you looked at it. 1000 kN*m/kg? That's more like it. Does that mean that a 9:1 strength-to-weight ratio is equivalent to a specific strength of 9000 kN*m/kg? If so, why not make all the rims out of this wonder-material?
Sources:
1. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Specific_strength#Examples
2. www.engineeringtoolbox.com/engineering-materials-properties-d_1225.html (some unit conversions needed)
3. personalpages.manchester.ac.uk/staff/william.sampson/pdf/SpecificContactAreaFinal.pdf (regarding paper; see table on p. 6)
m90 : meant for DH, but you can still ride it up a hill but don't expect amazing climbing.
m70 : very good at dh but not too heavy either for getting to the top of your trail
m60 : you could do DH with it , but don't overdo it. cycle to the top of your trail.
m50 : best of both worlds , you can still ride whatever trails you want, just don't do anything you would do on the m90 or m70. very good at climbing.
im not a scientist but I think this makes a lot more sense to most of us
For info I am a 210 lbs rider, my season is 100 + days of six hour days, and yes as a lot of it is teaching, it is not all charging but there are still a lot of miles, hits and jumps in that riding time and there is at least one day per week I get to ride the good stuff.
Second season on the same set of wheels about to finish and that adds another 90 ish days (rode a bit more trail in my spare time) to the wheels and the only problem I have had this season is failed bead on the tyre ie not the fault of the wheelset but a very rare QC failure on otherwise very good tyres.
On average most of my peers are going though at least two rims in that time frame with the assocaiated hassle and cost of a wheel re-build each time as well as the down time from riding whilst they wait for the shop to do the rebuild.
Do I have a handful of replacement spokes, internal nipples and my own internal nipple driver.. of course I do.
After disc brakes (Shimano), sticky rubber, carbon bars and dropper posts they are the single greatest improvement to ride quality in the last 25 years.
That said there are some amazing alum wheelsets that will deliver almost the same performance, without the truing 'hassle' for one third of the price. I also cannot think of one premium wheelset that does not have its own quirk: Mavic = hub tension, Chris King = bearing pre-load, Hadley = bearing pre-load and propriatary tools, Shimano = centre lock.
I just put a Ripley 29 on layaway and I think the derby rims would lace up nicely on the DT Swiss 240 hubs (mine are six bolt disc mount). If only someone wanted 26" Enve rims I could practically pay for the new bike!!!
really do need to be trued far less than other wheels. I've been riding AM 29s for over a year and they haven't needed truing yet.
Also it's odd that one of the biggest complaints came from using the wrong rotors for the hubs. I've always seen the centerlock adapter as being an "I guess if you really have to" sort of option. If it were my review, I would've been sure to try them with some centerlock rotors.
Lastly, at first the lack of flex in my enve wheels was a turnoff. But once I got used to it (after half a ride) the instant response and feedback became my favorite thing about the wheels. I know it's just an opinion and not the exact same rim, but I don't think they're too stiff or harsh at all.
He said his wheel went out of true. so obviously what is true of your AM wheels might not be true of these, which are a less sturdy rim. Especially in the context of wider reports about these M series wheels not being nearly as reliable as past ENVE wheels. Lots of people reporting problems with these wheels, across the series.
1. Buy a complete, quality AM dig for less money. Ride with envy for carbon wheelset.
2. Buy wheelset, imagine you get to ride them. Who the hell needs a bike anyways?
3. Sell your house,down grade to shitty car, and buy both.
4. Anyone need a kidney?? I'm taking offers!
Screw it, I'm going for #3.
Then your screwed anyway
Carbon wheels DO not need to be trued they just need correct spoke tension & will run true
Get your facts right seraph
How can any reviewer (that doesn't have to pay for their kit) tell a rider that $2000 rims are "worth it". A student and a CEO will have a different idea of "worth it".
A guide or coach at Whistler may be able to justify them because he spends 8 hours a day on his bike, even though he earns shitty money.
Accusing Pinkbike of taking money because they didn't judge YOUR personal situation is pretty screwed up. (and yes, I think the internal nipples are there to look good at the expense of function)
Love this comment. I have always tried to work less and make more, so it amuses me when people wear this as a badge of honor. Well I'm off for a ride. Have fun at work!
" the wheelset has more performance per dollar."
"Your shitty $250 wheelset will add nothing but an anxiety attack" Outlaws hold up really well, not sure what you are talking about.
Same goes for the internal nipple. I love the honesty of Mike saying they are a huge pain in the ass.
Well, I sincerely regret I spent so much money on the ENVE AM. Going to sell them and buy a custom EX471+DT240 wheelset, for 1/3 of the price.
It was the older AM rim that I broke, and they upgraded to the 60/40 that I have now. They're pretty rad
Mike
28mm outer/23.4mm inner width
1540 grams
$1195
I weigh 210lbs and have ridden the 26" version of this wheelset hard for over a year. I have never had to true them. They freakin rip corners and accelerate like a mofo! Don't waste your money on hype and status stickers.
...we have? Damn, not around here we haven't.
My brain cannot get around how a hookless rim profile can retain a beaded tire. But I don't understand lots of things.
I guess I'll just trust the engineers. Cause it makes no sense to me.
For $1000, you are also paying for a stunningly aggressive marketing strategy.
Well established bike and component manufacturers produce fantastic products in Asia without having to compromise in good quality control.
I don't know how old ENVE is in company terms but I am wondering where is the innovation or the product advantage.
I may be wrong here but all I see is carbon rim with "Apple-esque" design and pretty decals.
One thing I would love to see more is type of product guarantee ENVE has. If their costumer service is just as good I may be convinced by them.
I bought them used. And they are absolutely bomber. I regularly run them at downhill parks. Regularly smash them into rocks. And generally neglect them.
To all the people crying about price... do you cry every time someone drives by in a Porsche. Can you make the same argument that they are overpriced vehicles that only cater to people with too much money to spend?
There's a reason why they're the BEST carbon wheels on the market:
Handmade in the U. S. of A. 5 year warranty. Lifetime crash replacement.
Get over it, or get a better job.
I blew a tire off of a tubeless rim in a small apartment bedroom that was "converted" to a shop. There was Stans on all four walls, the clothing in the open closet behind me, and the ceiling fan. To make matters worse, this was while experimenting with glitter to help plug all the little cactus holes you get when riding in west Texas. Yes... Glitter EVERYWHERE.
They last amazingly well. I recently bought a new carbon Nomad 27.5 that wasn't specked with carbon rims, but the WTB trail wheel set, they suuuuck, always out of true, flex like crazy, burp tire bead regularly, and really difficult to seat tire when installing. Can't wait to get back on a carbon wheel set.
They really do make a difference.
Check out the Chinese versions built up with Hope hubs for $825pr, I have several friends that are using them, and their stoked.
If you earn enough money to afford these you most likely realise that life is not about status symbols.
Ztr rims just work and are great for not getting punctures or running tubeless. Yes they will fail. But you can get spares with ease and lace them yourself without breaking the bank. You won't be worried about scratching your very expensive wheel (or them cracking), you will just get out and enjoy riding.
No need for these today, tomorrow or anytime in the future.
These are all trivial issues, but for 2870 USD I expected a perfectly balanced rim, flat spokes that all looked perfect and tyre installation for hard rubber on the front just as easy as it was for maxxis 3c soft rubber on the back (my Stan's have always been a breeze). THAT SAID, I have not ridden the wheels yet. They may yet prove to be an incredible ride and unbreakable as the price suggests. It's just a really bad start.
These are all trivial issues, but for 2870 USD I expected a perfectly balanced rim, flat spokes that all looked perfect and tyre installation for hard rubber on the front just as easy as it was for maxxis 3c soft rubber on the back (my Stan's have always been a breeze). THAT SAID, I have not ridden the wheels yet. They may yet prove to be an incredible ride and unbreakable as the price suggests. It's just a really bad start.
These are all trivial issues, but for 2870 USD I expected a perfectly balanced rim, flat spokes that all looked perfect and tyre installation for hard rubber on the front just as easy as it was for maxxis 3c soft rubber on the back (my Stan's have always been a breeze). THAT SAID, I have not ridden the wheels yet. They may yet prove to be an incredible ride and unbreakable as the price suggests. It's just a really bad start.
www.wtb.com/products/kom
My new bike (complete bike with wheels) cost 2750...
Thats just a lot of money for some wheels..
here cry babies: www.ibiscycles.com/wheels
actually... that's a pretty sick price for a full carbon wheelset. And I'd LOVE to try a 41mm wide wheel.
why?
Because i don't like.
At first, yes indeed i like it.
But, EVERYTIME i cracked it, i must say "Let's stop this and let's sell this wheels"
Lifetime warranty? Yes.
But, let's face it here dude.
When are you gonna ride your bike when you must replace your wheels everytime you ride?
Still happy and satisfied with my Flow EX.
This make a very stiff wheelset that's is rather light (400g rims) and not expensive compared to this one. It's also really easy to maintain.
Rear hub : 225$ on eBay (shipped)
Front hub : 92$ on chainreaction.com
Spokes : DT champion 60$ for both wheels
Rims : 175 $ each (No, they're not made in North America... I know. But with usa carbon material (Toray)
Build: a friend who is a good wheelbuilder laced them for me, for 70$ total.
So it's about a 800$ wheelset and I like it very much.
The m60s on kings are roughly 40g more than the rovals, im going to say all of that and maybe more is in the hub itself. There was certainly no obvious feeling of any weight penalty. The ride however the m60s really shine! I never found my rovals flexy but the stiffness on the enves is next level, which really comes to the fore in the rough stuff, the classic carbon 'stiffer but more compliant' magic, really inspires more speed on rougher lines, drops and in corners. I usually run 28psi on the rovals tubeless, and went the same on the m60 but will drop afew psi as they are just that damn stiff!
First time on king hubs and love them, very impressed with the freehub feel and pick up.
Are they worth 2x as much as the rovals? I got mine on a long term interest free deal so for 2 less coffees a week hell yes there worth every penny! That said, they do ride in a certain style and feel, i wouldn't put them on my short travel bike, the rovals are certainly more fit for that purposes (there an xc style rim after all), but for a 5-6" travel bike getting ridden hard, the m60s are an awesome choice if you're willing to splash out.
I have good days when I push hard. The bike feels right. I have bad days when I'm tired or not feel confident (and working stress plays a role here), I go slower, the bike feels too stiff and reduces confidence further.
www.pinkbike.com/photo/11501733
What colour should I choose?
Are Freeza rotors worth it?
I love carbon rims - I've beat the hell out of mine with zero issues. Easy to build, nice and stiff, light for the width (29mm internal).
www.pinkbike.com/news/spank-oozy-trail-295-26-wheelset-review-2014.html
www.pinkbike.com/news/halo-vapour-6-drive-disc-275-wheelset-review-2014.html
www.pinkbike.com/news/sram-introduces-roam-40-and-roam-30-wheels-2014.html
www.pinkbike.com/news/Spank-Spike-Race28-Wheelset-tested-2013.html
I guess ENVE does not have comparative results on 40ft drops for those components. Did you get replacements from the company? Also would you consider using ENVE components after that experience?
ALL carbon parts need to be inspected for damage after crashes. Is it silly that carbon parts may have to taken out of service way sooner than aluminum? Yes. But that's the price you pay for running them. Regardless of brand.
I find it hard to believe that you were able to break both the stem and handle bars by landing any size jump cleanly. And without prior damage, unnoticed most likely.
You claim to not only have received two flawed components (highly unlikely), and you also claim you didn't crash hard enough to damage them prior to this event. But then you managed to break both components (in the same spot no less) that have been proven to sustain forces much larger than those that would have occurred in your "smoothly" executed landing.
Something's off here...