Pinkbike Poll: How Often Do You Replace Your Tires?

Oct 12, 2018
by Daniel Sapp  
That's 8 plugs and some super glue...doing a surprisingly pretty alright job of holding things together. It pains me to toss out a brand new tire, especially when I don't have another equal one to replace it.

Tires are undisputedly one of the most critical pieces of equipment on a bike. They're also one of the fastest wearing components, especially if you're smashing out bike park laps or live somewhere with lots of sharp rocks. Opinions on what the best tire for a given riding locale or season may be are a dime a dozen, and if you walk into three different bike shops in the same town you're likely to get three different opinions on what to choose.

The cost of tires has only increased over the last decade, and there's nothing more deflating than puncturing a brand new tire, but it happens. If the worst occurs, I usually find myself putting more effort than ever into plugging a punctured casing, and I'm much more willing to run a tube for a little while, especially if I don't have an appropriate spare tire kicking around the garage. We used to run tubes with a dozen patches, so why not tires with a dozen plugs?

If one is so fortunate to actually be able to wear down the tread on a tire before slicing the sidewall or otherwise blowing out a tire, there's certainly a point at which the performance degrades...the knobs peel, lose their sharpness, and with that, you lose your connection to the terrain and at some point, it's inevitably time to throw on some fresh treads.

How often do you replace your tires?

How often do you replace your tires?




234 Comments

  • + 476
 How about "when I notice them performing poorly"?
  • + 45
 This. How is this not one of the options?
  • + 43
 Yep... when I can tell by feel, without looking, that the tires are worn, it's time to replace them. That includes when they don't hold air because of a large puncture or slash that can't be solved by sealant or with a plug.
  • + 11
 @PeterWojnar: more like “every sketchy bit or crash you blame the tyres” ! I know guys like that , lol !
  • + 1
 @Matt115lamb: I do this, but I keep the tires. New tires would just mean no more excuse. On the other hand, I am really good at keeping the front end from washing out, after a season of washing out the front end because I had selected the wrong tire for the conditions. A little knee in the top tube can make even the most shit tire on earth hold a line! Usually!
  • + 50
 The option I need is also missing... Whenever decent new tires go on a legitimately good sale.
  • + 1
 @acdownhill: Usually when the knobs lose their sharpness I tend to find.
  • - 1
 I just put Terra Grapplers on my I9 wheels
  • + 26
 @cthorpe: pinkbike is always lacking the middle ground options in their polls
  • + 4
 I've got a question which is loosely related. On my road bike I have Schwalbe Pro One tyres which are completely bald. Does anyone know, how do you tell when they are worn out enough to need replacing? Genuine question. Is it just when canvas starts showing?
  • + 4
 @jaame: by "bald" you mean the superficial siping has worn out? That really only matters on road tires in the wet, where the siping helps break the film of water on the road surface. For everyday riding, you can run a tire down 'till small nicks in the rubber show bare casing beneath, then it's time for a new one. The exception is if you are racing, or doing lots of technical descending & notice you have "squared off" your tread (typically on the rear). Having a flat spot in the middle of the tread w/ a pronounced shoulder on either side is something most experienced bike handlers can feel, and disrupts your traction as you lean the bike over. If you are regularly pushing the limits of traction in the corners, swap out a squared off tire for a fresh one & save it for the indoor trainer, or for the rear on a set of training wheels where you can grind the remaining base miles out of it.
  • + 3
 @jaame: in the running surface you can find some small hols as indication.
  • + 1
 @jaame: road tyres often get little knicks in the surface or become inconsistent. If they don’t get that, then yep when they get to canvas they’re certainly ready.
  • + 1
 @dontlament: I bought the bike second hand, and as far as i can see the tyres do not have any tread wear indicators even when new. I guess I can run them down to canvas if you say so!
  • + 6
 @jaame: I'd usually wait until the tube starts to show...
  • + 1
 Perhaps PB considered other options and then just noticed they were the same thing using different words. "As soon as the knobs lose their sharpness".
  • + 4
 Agreed. Huge gap between "knobs lose sharpness" and "run into the ground".
  • + 1
 That would be as soon as the knobs loose their sharpness
  • + 1
 @jaame: I replace road tires when you can see that the tread is flat fwiw.
  • + 1
 It is

"As soon as the knobs lose their sharpness"
  • + 2
 @ninjatarian: This is the correct answer. The more often they go on sale, the more often I replace my tires. I'll also try something different if it is inexpensive to give them a try.
  • + 1
 @Rubberelli: Bingo
  • + 0
 @Veloscente: Siping on MTB tires is not superficial. It allows the knobs to flex and imitate a lower durometer or "softer" rubber, even with a hard compound. If your sipes have worn out it is likely that area or knob on the tire will feel a little bit stiffer, and will change the handling, even if it's a very small difference.
  • + 4
 @thepwnstar39: Agreed, but @Jaame was asking about how to gauge wear on *road* tires, & my answer explicitly & exclusively addressed road tread.
  • + 2
 This. And usually it's me performing poorly but I blame the tire. They're lower on the food chain, afterall.
  • + 4
 @jaame: on your road bike worry more about your sidewalls than your tread. In 35 years of road riding & racing, I can count the number of tires that I managed to wear down through the tread to the fabric casing on one hand. On modern lightweight clinchers, the vast majority of tires fail due to casing cuts long before the serviceable tread gives out. Sidewalls on most road tires typically lack both the rubber & "breaker" reinforcement that protect the tread area, so the first sign of a tire nearing failure is usually your sidewall casing fraying due to cuts from gravel or debris. When the tube pushes through one of these casing cuts, the blowout will be catastrophic. Punchline: inspect your casing, the tread will take care of itself.
  • + 3
 @Veloscente: thanks to all who commented!
  • + 1
 @ORTOGONAL555: because they would collect 70% of the votes and make the results less interesting (but more realistic)
  • + 1
 @silentbutdeadly: Gonna be waiting a long time with Tubeless tires...
  • + 1
 @jaame: let the rear square off a bit if you want, the more square the more chance of flatting (less rubber between air and tarmac, I run mine tubeless).
The front....no chance. Put that on the rear and new up front....
  • + 1
 @jaame: for road bikes, change them when they, rather than being round, are flat on the running zone
  • + 114
 Me- need some new tires
Wife- oh ok what to they run like $20 apiece
Me- yep uh yep they do... about $20
  • + 39
 Having your wife all up in your budget is no way to live, my friend. Studies show most arguments are over money.
  • + 6
 They cost $60, pocket $20 so you don't have to ask next time.
  • + 13
 My wife is a mtber... She knows...
  • + 59
 Just do what I do and be ugly. #99problemsbutawifeaintone
  • + 22
 Way for a happy marriage?
Buy black bikes only!
Black on black.
  • + 35
 @defineindecline: I'm ugly and I still got a wife, you see I fed her once and she followed me home.
  • + 1
 @endlessblockades: *lack of money
  • + 5
 just ordered the aggressor/minion dhf combo for $107 shipped. Thought that was a great deal for 2 bike tires. Wife didn't agree..... Frown
  • + 7
 @Fix-the-Spade: UCI fed her? Great sport, this.
  • + 19
 Everything I've ever bought for the bike is about £20 as far as the girlfriend knows
  • + 1
 @endlessblockades: or about how much time you spend riding
  • + 13
 I had a buddy that always rode a flat black bike (even if he had to send it out to powder coat) because he just bought a new bike and never had to explain where the new bike came from. "No sweetheart, that is the same bike that has been there for years"
  • + 3
 @zrider79: why do you think I ride black bikes only??
  • + 7
 @pakleni:
Because #blackbikesmatter
  • + 1
 @SeanC1: thats a great deal. whered you get that from?
  • + 1
 @sooner518: Biketiresdirect.com They have the Aggressor on sale for $49.60 and they price-matched the Minion to SteepandCheap's price of $56.99.

$106.59 with No tax and free shipping!
  • + 6
 Put two jars on your bedside table. Every night you get some, $1 goes in one of the jars. Everynight you don't get some $1goes in the other jar. The first jar is for condoms and the other jar is for tyres. When the jars are full you buy the stock.

You should have fresh tyres every couple of months.

Lll
  • + 6
 genuine tip: ask any wife about her hairdresser prices, and how often she goes. Win.
  • + 2
 Damn you all are whipped. I've spent over $2k on my bike this year and wife didn't care.
  • + 1
 Round-down the price using Top Gear math, works every time!
  • + 107
 I wait until performance drops noticeably, replace them, then kick myself for not replacing them sooner when I'm blown away by how much better new tires work.
  • + 5
 This should be an option.
  • + 14
 New tire day is almost as good as new bike day!
  • + 2
 This is me last week
  • + 3
 Well said. If you can't tell a big difference, you jumped the gun.
  • + 2
 @skelldify: it's a good day for the household swear jar, damn beaded minions
  • + 1
 Its always amazing how you grip corners with freshies that you were sliding around on before Smile Generally when I start breaking or ripping outside row knobs I change em out.
  • + 71
 Step 1: Purchase soft-compound, high performance tires.
Step 2: Ride hard, often at or beyond the limits of grip.
Step 3: Complain when they wear out way faster than you think they should.
  • + 46
 Step 4: Cut new square edges on the knobs, and new sipes with a box cutter because it's cheaper than buying a new one

Step 5: repeat step 4 until tyre is slick

Step 6: see step one
  • + 10
 @oldmanDan: tell me more
  • + 6
 step 1: true
step 2: true
step 3: Actually pretty stoked on how slow they wear out than what I thought Big Grin
  • + 3
 @oldmanDan: step 7 put some sikaflex as knobs and ride it as you stole it
Step 8: for magic mary superglue the beheaded new knobs becames step 3
  • + 2
 @oldmanDan : If you actually do this, give us some pics. (obligatory) "or it didn't happen."
  • + 1
 facts.
  • + 1
 @Pedro019: I've got some Onza Ibex meant for DH racing in the wet, and they've actually lasted about 7 full days of riding, (you can see all the knobs and everything) I'm amazed! New rubber is amazing compared to the older stuff.
  • + 1
 @freestyIAM: I actually do cut new sipes when I'm riding wet rocks. Unlike the factory molded sipes, cut sipes are nicer because you can make them really shallow (after all it is only about the gripping edges, not about how deep they are) so they are more stable. You can always cut new ones when the old ones are worn off. And the sipes clean themselves out as the knobs deform. I use those old school double edge razor blades for shaving so I already have them ready for my tires too.
  • + 2
 @vinay: pics
  • + 1
 @oldmanDan: Do you find that the sharper, square edge on the knobs outweighs the negative of the shorter, cut down knob?
  • + 2
 @joshdodd: if you're using a tyre like a magic mary, the centre knobs are tall enough to lose a bit from the top anyway, so by the time the factory sipes in the centre are worn, they can be recut and not really affect grip. Straight line Braking is improved though, and rolling speed is better as the knobs are a bit shorter.
Side knobs are slightly different though, the sipes are deeper as standard, so they only really need squaring up on the edges and not cutting the top off of the knob.
In short, a recut tyre isn't as good as a brand new one, but better than a worn one
  • + 1
 @oldmanDan:
Cheers dude. How do you mean “squaring up the edges” as opposed to “cutting the top off”? I’ve taken a pair of tyre cutters to the shoulder knobs on my shorty because they’d rounded off. Can’t see any other way of sharpening the edges without taking the top off...?
  • + 44
 Me: 'I'd like to apply for a mortgage'

Bank: 'Congrats on making the move towards purchasing a home'

Me: 'I'm not buying a house, I need new bike tires'
  • + 24
 Not everyone has money to buy new tires every week? Some of us peasant laborers cannot simply buy a $70 or even a $40 tire every time they wear out a set only to the point where the rubber hairs disappear. Run them until they don't work and when they don't work you'll be getting better at riding out of control. Smile
  • + 4
 You can sell your old ones to migrant workers for a bit of subsidy on new ones
  • + 1
 run a dmr moto digger.. 4 years of twice a week rides and still going strong!!
  • + 26
 I don't. I just buy a new bike when they wear out....doesn't everyone?

#CostOfTireJoke

#DontPanic
  • + 5
 I know a lot of people that actually do that, myself included. keep the bike for a year or so and when its sold at the end if the year, the tires go with it.
  • + 1
 Because of lots of tyre switching due to massively varying terrain (and switching between different bikes) by the time I sell they’ve only gone in the bin if there’s been a tyre killing failure, which is rare.
  • + 20
 Only during lunar eclipse's
  • + 14
 Sorry, non of the options fit for me really.
I´ll replace once performance starts going down but not immediately when the lugs loose their edges.
Also i´ll replace my front tires when worn but swap them to the back and run them for quite a bit longer.

It also depends on weather. If tires get worn in the middle of a dry summer and there´s only sunshine coming for the next three weeks i´ll happily run the tires for a bit longer.
Going for a trip to a park with more loose dirt and bad weather forecast i´ll swap for a new Magic Mary just to be prepared.
  • + 1
 Pretty much the same. Mostly when the side knobs are broken/ripped.
  • + 3
 I think front to back, new on the front is what a lot of people do. I do it on the car, too.
  • + 11
 I didn't see a "as soon as I get a pinch flat on the bead" option. I have a closet full of nearly new $80 tires like this. I finally switched to double down casing, so far no flats.
  • + 3
 I've been able to get those rolling again tubeless with some more creative patchwork. But is a tire with a 3/4 inch tear in the treads savable?
  • + 2
 Spot on.

Went to double down in the rear earlier this year for the same reason. After the 2nd DD casing tire had pinch flatted on the bead I threw in the towel and am going to run DH casings in the rear tire from now on.
To be fair, I am over 240 lbs w/ a pack on (6'5"), and the DD tires did last longer than the EXO casing's I ran previously so I bet they will hold up long-term for most people.
(on the bright side, the DH tires were 'only' $50/pop instead of the $72 i was paying for DD)
  • + 3
 That would be the 'only when they won't hold air' option. Surprised it wasn't more popular for this reason. I hate pinch flats on the bead.
  • + 1
 @vtracer: I've had some luck but I should invest more time in this. I have easily a few seasons worth of tires if I can get them working again.
  • + 4
 lets be honest as well, dh casing tyres feel so much better than those floppy single ply ones when it gets really rough and fast
  • + 1
 I think this point about weight is overlooked and very important. Clearly, if you weigh 100kg+, you're not going to get the same feel or reliability as a 60kg rider.
  • + 1
 Just wrecked a conti like this.
  • + 1
 @jdorw: I run tubes, that ain't a problem... PM me about that closet full of nearly new tires. Big Grin
  • + 1
 @therev34: Ever think of trying cushcore?
  • + 1
 @gnarnaimo: yeah I'm definitely using inserts from now on. Haven't tried cushcore yet but I've been using the mynesweeper inserts which were quite a bit cheaper but you can still ride out on them (basically hassle free pool noodles). The install was a PITA for me but at $60 for the set I was happy to try them. I had it in on my most recent flat on the DD casing bead (not the inserts fault where I hit it) and cautiously rode out on it so I can confirm they work. still running the mynesweeper in the front

When I replaced that tire I ended up putting a huck Norris in the DH casing, my hope is that I can get by with that combo as the install is so easy. If it doesn't last longer-term though I'll probably go back to a full on insert
  • + 11
 Trying to be the change I'm seeking, I run them into the ground cause I hate pollution and empowering oil companies. Plus you can drift like a MOFO and get looser than that Debbie girl who did Dallas.
  • + 7
 Rear tires don't need no stinkin' tread, just fronts.
  • - 2
 perspective is funny, maybe the oil companies empower you and all who aspire to do more, be more!
  • - 1
 @lifted-d: are tyres made of oil? I thought they were made out of rubber from rubber trees in Thailand.
  • + 3
 @LoganKM1982: exactlyyyyyyy. I normally only replace the fronts. I run a DHF in the front, once that wears a good bit, I’ll throw it on the back and buy a new dhf for the front.
  • + 1
 @patch92: same here, I run michelin wild mud from late fall to late spring, I wear out first, cut the knobs (because they are massive) and put it on the back, and then just buying new front one. It's my fifth tyre and they are working great in mud
  • + 2
 @LoganKM1982: I wish that were the case here. We have a lot of steep techy climbs and when my rear is worn out I just spin out and tear up the trail. Or if I get my weight back enough to stick the rear tire the front end wants to lift.

If I rode park more often or lived in a place with fire road type climbs, I'd probably never replace my rear tire though Razz
  • + 8
 The Maxxis Minion DHF EXO 2.5 in *dual compound* is my absolute favorite tire. Around $50, and they last forever. The side knobs on 3C wear out too fast. I ride 10-12 hours per week, hard, in a rocky area, and I've never flatted it and I only need to replace it every 4-5 months. The side knobs last foreeeever and sometimes I think they're better than the soft compound, they're more rigid and seem to dig into stuff better rather than folding.
  • + 2
 Got my first dual compound a couple month ago, after strictly riding 3C before that. If anything, the dual compound is better!
  • + 1
 I got a Minion SS in dual because it wasn't available in 3C. I just installed it on Wednesday and haven't tried it yet. This is good to know you think dual is as good or better.
  • + 1
 What about wet rock? Dual compound still okay on the front for that?
  • + 1
 @casman86: nah, 3C front, problem is choosing the rear. Dual definitely better for abrasive rock but no DD casing version so it’s 3C for me.
  • + 2
 You are the first person I've met that's made an EXO casing last longer than 6 hours, Bravo.
  • + 1
 @smithfeeble: I've never seen anyone have a problem with exo casing unless it's a warranty type issue. I ride in an area with sharp rock everywhere and I wear down minion exos until the knobs are far beyond done, 1000 miles or so. Maybe you're referring to lift assist riding though.
  • + 1
 @Travel66: Cool, thanks. Been running 3C Maxx Terras on front for a long time, I probably shouldn't risk my face with DC in wet weather.
  • + 0
 @smithfeeble: only in front. DD in back. EXO's tear real fast in the rear for me.
  • + 6
 I’d like to be able to demo tyres. Would make choosing something a little different like michelins or hutches (or whatever, anything other than a magic mary or a DHF exo) a lot easier, stings to pay upto £50 or more for a tyre that you might hate.
  • + 7
 when controlled drift turns to texas driver on I-70 in the middle of winter.
  • + 3
 The last one when the tube popped right out from within but was still inflated. When i felt the rear wheel locking up and looked down I was surprised, to say the least Big Grin Looked a bit like the sausage-and-beans scene from "There's something about Mary".
  • + 6
 Front new tire, rear ex-front new tire. I hate more grip in the rear than front
  • + 6
 Where I live the trails are all loam and dirt so I can often get 3 years out of a set of tires.
  • + 2
 This spring I put brand new XR4s on my bike, rode it twice and ruined a rim and punctured a tire. Since Bontrager tires have a butyl layer, I was able to glue a standard patch on the inside of the tire, like they do on cars or motorcycles. Problem solved. I've done it on some of my road tubeless tires as well. Works great as long as the underlying plys aren't too damaged. I tried it on a WTB CX tire and it had a big bulge at the cut after it was patched, and the glue didn't seem to stick nearly as well as to the inside of the tire, unlike the Bontrager which seems to bond well. It's more of a fix at home repair, but I've had good luck with it.
  • + 2
 Ever buy a Rema patch kit with the little pieces of latex tubing? A couple of times this summer, I stuck one of those in a Genuine Innovations tire plug tool, smeared some rubber cement on it, and used it as a plug. Permanent fix, and way easier to handle than the pre-sticky plugs that come with the tool.
  • + 2
 I would like to change my tyres seasonally... as soon as the weather gets wet I start looking at tyres for the slop. However by the time I’ve chosen tyres the sun is back out.
I then repeat this until I start getting tonnes of punctures from having no tread ????
  • + 2
 I have different approaches depending on the bike. My trail bike, daily driver if you will, I generally run tires until they are completely shot or I tear the sidewall, usually the latter happens first. I do this to be economical, usually when I change a worn one, it's way past due. For me that's roughly 1 front tire per season and 2-3 rears. My racing bike runs double downs and I replace them when they are in any way questionable or worn where I can feel a difference. 2+ front tires, 3+ rears for a full season of racing. I selected "when the knobs loose sharpness" but that's not really a firm rule, It kind of depends.
  • + 4
 Where is the "when I buy a new bike option"...

Or

"when I'm bored and fancy a change so I shove my old tyres in the pile of backups"
  • + 2
 if i get a hole in a tyre i take the tyre off patch it with some glue and either a sturdy cycle inner-tube patch or piece of old inner-tube (loads left from when i use to run tubes) and then carry on. No point running plugs for any longer than the length of the current bike ride.

Surely people dont just throw tyres away if they get a small hole in them.....if it can be fixed for god sake fix it. Unless youre so rich you dont care or your sponsored surely you would do this.
  • + 5
 I replace my tires like I replace my condoms: only when they rip
  • + 3
 :-) ... :-I ... :-o
  • + 6
 Don't ride that often then ????
  • + 3
 I guess it kinda depends which comes first. Do I wear out all the knobs before slicing the slide wall? Kind of whichever happens first there.
  • + 1
 I look at when the knobs start getting rubbed off, but also when the sidewall casing starts leaking fluid and getting wet patches. You can really see the sidewalls are worn out when you get the wet patches, and sometimes that is faster than the knobs themselves.

Anyone else do this?
  • + 1
 It's the only advantage of running Stan's fluid I ever found.... And pretty much proved to me that it doesn't seal holes for squat.
  • + 1
 Ughh was ready to answer this with a time frame "once a year" or even just a answer that actually made sense but the answers are all a bit loopy so not even going to bother, just a quick glance at the comments I figure I'm not the only one.
  • + 2
 I replace the front tire when it starts sliding too much, or when the rear needs replaced, then I put the old front on the rear, or if I damage the tire(sliced or ripped casing etc).
I will rarely put a new tire on the rear.
  • + 1
 I usually get hard compound (dc) Maxxis and they last maybe 4 months with a mix of trail and park riding without racing, half that with racing, 5-6 months in the winter when I'm not riding as much. Change tires about 3 times a year. Soft compound tires have gotten much better in the past couple of years, but I stay away because they still can get pretty shredded in a single enduro weekend.
  • + 1
 They take forever to wear out from my experience. Only really worn out a pair of Maxxis Highroller 2's. If you have a bike of not super great quality, the tires will likely out last the bike. Last time I changed my tires, I just swapped out Maxxis Hookworms because I wanted more traction. In conclusion, "you have to ride ALOT to wear out a pair of tires".
  • + 1
 i tend to replace mine when a large cattle dog confonts me as i'm practicing wheelies in the parking lot and locks his nasty snaggle tooth straight into my DH casing sidewall. didn't see that option, guys...* oh yeah stans is really gross when it's stuck on a dogs furry face
  • + 1
 Should have been an option. That's happened to me at least a dozen times.
  • + 6
 Paging /u/IamTheDogEzra/
  • + 1
 I’ll replace a couple a season. Tires are expensive these days but I need as much grip as I can to stay upright, so if that means laying down $80-100 a tire then I guess I have no other choice then to do so. Nothing beats the grip of a fresh tire!
  • + 1
 I said seasonally, but that's only when I swap the tires. They go back on when the weather comes back around, cause I don't have multiple wheelsets for the same bike. Actual replacement is when they fail to hold air anymore or threaten to end my life with lack of grip.
  • + 2
 Me too. I have a stack of tyres upstairs. A pair each of shorties, ground controls and butchers, with a dhr2 and minion ss on the bike.
  • + 1
 Typically performance drops when Tyre no longer held air! After last trip to Valnord tire could be usable only with dh time, 100500 holes, however looking and performing quite ok
  • + 1
 Side knobs tearing is my reason. Last set I gave to a friends 10 year old he was stoked to get MM and Aggressor.

I run 2 wheel sets though so my less gravity riding runs DHF/Ardent combo that seem to handle a bit more k's.
  • + 4
 I save the part worn tyres for the dry day of Welsh summer.
Salute
  • + 6
 I heard that in 1988 there were 2 dry days in the summer there.
  • + 3
 @endlessblockades: with global warming the welsh valleys will be like the Pyrenees soon !
  • + 3
 @Matt115lamb: Or they'll be under water permanently.
  • + 4
 @endlessblockades:

Ah... a scholar of Welsh history. You are correct Sir. 1988... 48 hours that sent the country into a state of shock for sure. When the Sun shone on the second day people thought the world was going to end or avacados might run out. Thankfully it was the only time in recorded history so it shouldn't happen again for another 100,000 years or so.
#buydiesel
  • + 2
 @Matt115lamb: i ride there as often as possible and for the last few years ive had some very dry days riding in the summer months so things are getting better (or worse depending how you look at it).
  • + 1
 Being a fatty I usually have to replace the rear due to running lower pressures than I probably should...but traction. Get about a year out of a set before they give up the ghost...
  • + 2
 I don't get it. If I run low pressure I end up going through rims as fast as tires
  • + 3
 How about when they reach the wear indicators? Or on tires without, when the siping in the knobs that have it is gone?
  • + 1
 I'm riding a transition patrol with a rear 26x2,5 minion that is about 8 yr old, ghetto tubeless setup, leak a bit of sealant on the sidewalls but still hold air. Runnin 1,2 bar on rocky terrain, no problem bro
  • + 1
 How thick is the layer of soft rubber over the harder base rubber of a 3C tire? I would think that once you’ve worn through that the tire will be especially shitty.
  • + 2
 No wonder the most popular choice is "when they're f*cked" seeing as you need to shell out over £100 for two tires
  • + 1
 My current tyres are 3 years old. But to be fair I don't get out as much as I would like anymore. Strava says I've done 270miles on them.
  • + 2
 I sharpen my tires with a moto tool, to add life and traction to worn tires.
  • + 2
 The cost of tires has only increased over the last decade... surely this is due to inflation ?
  • + 1
 I get about 300-400 miles on a rear tire while doing pure downhill riding. Doing 7-8 laps per day, and those that's a pretty fast turnover
  • + 1
 DHF front and rear, when the rear wears out, switch the front to the back and replace the front with a freshie. cuts cost in half
  • + 2
 Was pumped to read "nothing more deflating than puncturing a brand new tire" but it seems to have kinda fallen flat.
  • + 1
 I'm on both ends of the spectrum. Either I wear them out until they're slick, or sometimes I even just replace them because I feel like having new tires.
  • + 1
 Well, I have multiple bikes with multiple set of wheels...so I have no clue as far as how often. I do replace then when they are not performing like they are meant to.
  • + 1
 I ride the same tyres regardless of season, till theyre almost bald, imo it's wasteful to be chucking them out after a couple uses, just ride
  • + 2
 I go to Whistler in 9 day blocks and replace tires before each trip. Usually 6 tires per summer on the DH bike
  • + 1
 sounds about right, i have 4 whistler days on my new tires, the rear is looking worn but 'ok' the front only has a few chunked knobs. i rotate the front to the rear and put a freshie up front, for 'economy' lol
  • + 2
 Ran a gazzaloddi Jr. up front for three years before it started to square off. Still has all the tread though.
  • + 2
 only use 2 ply tyres & replace when tread get's low. take about 3 months use at best Frown #veryexpensive #needacheaphobby
  • + 2
 I didn't see "I'm a grown-ass man - I'll replace my tires whenever I want!" as a choice...
  • + 3
 Simple really . "When they are fuked they are chucked !
  • + 0
 rear tire lasts about 400 mi and the front 5-550. that is roughly 2 months. it's like clockwork really. The maxxis max terra compound is really the best compromise between grip and longevity.
  • + 1
 My front rarely flats so usually gets replaced when I no longer have side nobs (once a seasonish). My rear usually stops holding air before the knobs wears out.
  • + 2
 You might want to think about getting a stronger casing. I always manage to rip a few side knobs off and/or wear most of the side knobs to less than half their original width before it even begins to give up the ghost on holding air. Maybe try a different tubeless sealant, too

It's actually a point of pride with a few of my crew than we can destroy side knobs well before the center tread or casing is done, while others end up with semi-slicks because they don't lean into the fun!
  • + 2
 For me it's typically when they stop holding air, but that's usually before the tread is worn down all the way.
  • + 2
 When the wear indicators say to? #roadbikeproblems
  • + 1
 Maxxis 3C DHF front lasts at least a year. Maxxis dual compound on rear 2 per year.
  • + 1
 If I'm sliding around more than usual, checking to see if I have a flat but don't, then I need new tires.
  • + 1
 I like to keep my trail bike's tires pretty fresh but I run my DH bike's tires till they're bald
  • + 1
 Recently when they egg due to internal casing fail... Cough cough maxxis minion
  • + 2
 How often do solar eclipses happen?
  • + 1
 Umma gumma tires by specialized. They had the consistency of pencil rubbers. Super grippy bald in no time.
  • + 1
 We need another one "I wish my tires lasted long enough for the knobs to wear off!!!"
  • + 1
 those were some crappy choices to make, either have top pick too soon or too late...
  • + 1
 I have 6 bikes so the wear is spread between them. I normally get bored of the whole bike before changing the tyres.
  • + 1
 Id like to replace tires about once a year. But sometimes my skid trigger says otherwise.
  • + 1
 450 miles from the DHF gripp/Agressor terra combo. Not bad for the grip and speed they provide.
  • + 1
 Bought my bike in april 2016, swapped the frame in 2017, but same tires still!!
  • + 3
 I eat my worn out tires.
  • + 2
 replace tires like jimmy hats - only when ya tear 'em
  • + 2
 who am i kiddin tho, its 2018...no one uses jimmys anymore
  • + 1
 @rocky-mtn-gman: Comments section now closed. Internet won for 10-12-18
  • + 1
 When I can't hold the corners with my rich buddies who always have fresh rubber.
  • + 1
 I replace them when they’re basically racing slicks and I have zero traction
  • + 0
 Uuuuuugh. At $100 retail per tire? Not very often. Or just wait until dhf’s are one sale o line and buy 5.

Almost as expensive as car tires normally.
  • + 1
 I need this option: Ride tires for the season, move front tire to back get a new front tire, repeat.
  • + 2
 Tyres wearing out is just another reason to buy a new bike.
  • + 1
 Where I ride there my tires don't wear much, so generally I only change when the sidewall rips.
  • + 2
 When new ones go on sale on CRC
  • + 1
 If it aint broke it aint getting replaced well so i thought i love fresh rubber regaurdless of if she needs it or not lol
  • - 1
 Mountain bike tyres are ridiculously expensive for what they are. In fact you can buy a car tyre for similar money. For that reason I will replace my tyres when they are absolutely f**ked.
  • + 2
 Check out On One Chunky Monkeys, not only are they cheap, they're really, really good tyres too. In particular the 'not 3C' Trail Extreme version.
  • + 2
 @Fix-the-Spade: Love the Monkeys, Best Bang for the Buck.
  • + 3
 Uhh, not really, at least, not a good car tire. Sorta unfair to compare top-of-the-line mtb tires against bottom-of-the-line car tires.
  • + 1
 $210.00 for set of minions in Canada. So I change them when there worn out big time
  • + 1
 I still run tubes with 20 patches...
  • - 3
 I would usually have replaced mine by now. Reason I haven't is new standards and confusion,. Currently running 2.35 MMs but with all the different width options I am confused and not sure what will work best. TBA I would like to try wider but trying to figure which tyres will and which wont fit in my non boost 27.5 Lyriks is all a bit hard so will probably just end up riding these into the ground
  • + 1
 A non boost Pike will fit 2.5s, though you probably don't want to go that wide unless you have a rim wider than 27mm. Best bet is to stick with 2.3s
  • - 1
 @BlackVR: I run 31.6 inners. and am keen to try a 2.5 or 2.6
  • + 2
 if it helps, I run 2.5WT DHFs on a WTB ASYM i35 rim (and on a i27 rim as well) on a non boost 27.5 Lyrik. I have enough room for a marsh guard and some dirt and haven't run into any issues (I wouldn't describe the clearance as excessive though). They measure wider than the 2.35 MM (on a i27 rim) I've had in the same fork, and I wouldn't be concerned going to a 2.6 (non WT [you're right this is brutal]) DHF based on the measurements I've seen. Under normal circumstances I'd say take a look at the manufacturer's website, but don't, they're gross, useless messes.
  • + 1
 what are the best tyre plugs ?
  • + 1
 (Tire)
  • + 1
 @pigman65: Nope, tyre. Assuming you speak the Queen's English.
  • + 2
 @korev: he was translating for the Yanks.
  • + 1
 The more they wear the faster they get!
  • + 1
 None of the dumb ass options
  • + 1
 When they no longer serve their purpose...????
  • + 1
 When you think ,how come Maxxis isn't on Hook it?
  • + 0
 I jizz on new knobs , way better than gorilla glue ...also works better than stans.
  • + 1
 When I see a new 26" tire that's a 2.6 in the market!
  • + 1
 Tubeless problems, 8 plugs, smh! Inner tubes all day, errday!
  • + 1
 26er tires are cheap fools !
  • - 1
 Schwalbe and Maxxis last 10-30 hours per tire depending on f or r or model. Vittoria TNT G+ 200+ hours so far...never actually worn one out.
  • + 1
 At least every 10 years, unless I need them sooner.
  • + 1
 Everyday, I wake up and change my tires
  • + 1
 My tyres outlast my rims.
  • + 1
 When the rear is rooted, put the front on the back and buy a new front.
  • + 2
 I ride slicks suckas!
  • + 1
 I never change mine as I am acronyphobic.
  • + 1
 When the carcass starts to get flabby so i pinch flat too often.
  • + 1
 When I start flatting too often, or when the knobs are worn down or torn.
  • + 1
 not much tire for 26 so maybe I'm stuck
  • + 1
 Wear them right out until strings break in the sidewall if I can....
  • + 1
 @danielsapp someone has been lurking in the mechanics forum Wink
  • + 1
 To the point the rear is a Semi slick LOL
  • - 2
 C'mon Pinkbike. Scraping the bottom of the barrel today. The frame tape article was weak. How often do you replace your tyres is even weaker!
  • + 1
 Seriously, who cares
  • + 1
 about 1 to 2 time year.

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