North Shore Racks have been helping mountain bikers haul their bikes around since 2004, and 16 years later the racks are still made in North Vancouver, BC.
The NSR-6 can carry up to six bike, with a maximum recommended bike weight of 60 pounds, and a total weight capacity of 300 pounds. In other words, six oversized eMTBs might be pushing it, but otherwise almost any six mountain bikes should still come in under the max weight limit.
The bikes are held on via a four-pronged cradle that the fork crown slides into, and the rear wheel is held in place by a knotted rope. It's a rack designed specifically for mountain bikers, which means riders who are looking for a place to hang their fancy road bikes or beach cruisers will need to look elsewhere (for now).
NSR-6 Rack Details • Max bike weight: 60 lb / Total weight capacity: 300 lb
• Folds down when not in use
• Steel construction
• 2" receiver hitch
• Made in Canada
• Rack weight: 72 lb
• Price: $799.99 USD
•
northshoreracks.com It may be limited to mountain bikes, at least for now, but the design does allow it to work with everything from 12" to 29" wheels (kids bikes will require a bungee cord or something similar to attach the rear wheel to the rack's lower double bar). The mountain bike-only designation is scheduled to change this spring when North Shore Racks launches their retrofittable road bike adaptor.
ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATIONThe NSR-6 is shipped completely disassembled, and I mean completely – even the pieces of rope that are used to secure the rear wheel need some assembly, in the form of an overhand knot every few inches.
Getting everything put together isn't overly challenging, but it does take a solid 30 – 45 minutes. There's also the fact that it, like all 6-bike vertical racks we know of, is not light. The whole process is doable by one person, but having someone else on hand to help carry it and slide it into the hitch doesn't hurt.
The ability to tilt the rack, along with the multiple positions on the portion that slides in to a hitch, helps it accommodate a wide range of vehicle types. I ended up running it in the middle of the three angle positions, and with the rack as far back on the portion that slides into the receiver hitch in order to get the most ground clearance possible, which helped keep the rear wheels of longer bikes from dragging on the ground when going over water bars and the like.
LOADING & UNLOADINGLoading up the NSR-6 is quick and relatively easy as long as you remember the basics. The main point to keep in mind is that bikes load from the left side, and unload starting on the right. I'll admit, it is sort of entertaining watching someone try to get their bike out of the middle spot on the rack without taking the others off first – that struggle is real.
Of course, the difficulty level of loading bikes will also depend on vehicle height, bike weight, and rider height. Lifting a heavy DH bike over your head, especially for riders that are on the shorter side of the spectrum can be a challenge. I tested the rack with a wide range of mountain bikes and didn't run into any issues when it came to loading the bikes, but I do know the fit sometimes be a little trickier with a dual crown fork and a short head tube.
Compared to something like a Recon or a VelociRAX rack, where the front wheel sits in a cradle, it does take a bit more effort to get bikes situated on a North Shore Rack, although once they're in place they stay put very well, even on rough roads. The Yakima HangOver rack uses as similar pronged system to hold bikes, but it's more awkward to load, and requires that a rubber strap be secured each time to keep the bike in place.
BIKE RETENTIONOnce the fork crown is sitting in the four rubber coated prongs it's time to secure the rear wheel. The attachment method is about as simple as it gets – a piece of cord is looped around the wheel, and then a knot slots into a little notch to hold it into place. The system works, but I wouldn't mind seeing something a little less rudimentary, perhaps something along the lines of a ski strap. According to North Shore Racks, they said that they went with rope because it doesn't stretch, which helps keep the bikes from popping out the top of the rack if hit from below.
Speaking of ski straps, I'd highly recommend a few of those, unless you like looking in your rearview mirror and seeing front wheels spinning merrily along for the entire drive. This is another area where it'd be nice to see some refinement in the rack's design. It's not necessary to keep the bike in place - the prong length and design takes care of that, but the spinning front wheel is distracting.
It's also worth mentioning that the rack does touch your frame, and there's a chance of ending up with scuffed paint on your bike's head tube, especially you're doing a lot of loading and unloading on wet, muddy days. It's best to check the fit before heading out, and a protective sticker or two on the frame should prevent any possible paint rubbing. Shuttling rub is one of those things that can happen with almost any setup, and overall I'd say the NSR-6 is one of the more frame friendly options out there.
When it comes to keeping the bikes where they belong - on the rack - the NSR-6 does a great job. I never had any runaway bikes, and even when the rear wheels were jostled by a water bar all of the bikes remained in place. This is the category where the NSR-6 shines most - it's a very secure way to hold bikes on rugged shuttle roads.
It's probably time for a little rattle-can rust removal, assuming the rain ever stops...
DURABILITYWith the border closed, my usual trips to Whistler Bike Park have been replaced by more shuttling than ever, which has provided ample opportunity to test out the NSR-S's durability. The rack itself is still in excellent shape, although there are a few rust spots that are starting to show up where the powdercoat has rubbed off. That's the downside of the full steel construction, and it's going to be a more common occurrence for riders that live in extra-wet areas. A little sandpaper and some spray paint should be all it takes to deal with it, but it'd be nice if it didn't happen at all.
I did end up installing an
anti-rattle hitch tightener, since there was still more play between the rack and my hitch than I wanted even with everything snugged down. It would have been fine if I was only driving on pavement, but much of the shuttling I did was off-road.
On that note, North Shore Rack's 2-year warranty says that it's void if the product has been used off-road, which is unfortunate since I'd imagine there are a lot more dirt road shuttle roads than paved ones. The racks
are designed to handle dirt road shuttling, it's just that North Shore Racks can't cover user caused damage.
COMPARISONSWeight: The NSR-6 is a fairly substantial chunk of steel, but at 72 pounds it is lighter than its main competition - the Yakima HangOver is 73 pounds, the Recon R6 is 85 pounds, and the VelociRAX 6 also weighs around 85 pounds.
Carrying Capacity: As I mentioned earlier, the NSR-6 is designed to hold up to 300 pounds, with a max individual bike weight of 60 pounds (that means you'd only be able to carry 5 bikes if all of them weigh 60 pounds). The VelociRAX has a total bike weight capacity of 230 pounds, and individual bikes should weigh no more than 57 pounds. Yakima's HangOver rack has a 225 pound capacity, with an individual bike weight limit of 37.5 pounds. For the Recon R6, each basket is rated to a maximum capacity of 45-50 pounds.
Price: In the US, the NSR-6 is priced identically to the Yakima HangOver at $799, which is impressive considering the NSR-6 is made in Canada, and the HangOver is made in Asia. The VelociRAX 6 is slightly more expensive, at $849 USD. Recon is the smallest operation out of these four, and their prices reflect that at $1,170 for the 6 bike option. The Recon racks are made in the USA from US-sourced parts.
Pros
+ Very secure bike retention, even on rough roads
+ Compact considering how many bikes it can hold, while keeping them far enough apart to prevent pedal vs frame incidents
+ High individual bike weight capacity
+ Better value than most of the competition, and a touch lighter too
Cons
- Can be awkward to load and unload, depending on bike weight and rider height
- Wheel retention system could be refined, and needs a strap to stop the front wheel spinning
- Rust can develop, especially if it's used in rainy climates
- Mountain bikes only (for now)
Pinkbike's Take  | North Shore Racks were one of the first companies to come up with a sturdy solution for mountain bikers looking for an alternative to tossing bikes over a tailgate, and the latest version is up to the task. It's sturdy, simple, and has held up well to a season's worth of shuttling.
Yes, there are a couple areas that could be refined to give it a less homemade feel, but it works exactly as intended. It's one of the best options for riders looking for something that'll securely hold a lot of bikes in place, especially for riders who shuttle on on rough roads.—Mike Kazimer |
261 Comments
Pros
- it's compact enough for a 4 bikes rack
- it's robust
- it kinda works for different kind of bikes (different wheel size, hardtails) but not really, you will have to be creative
Cons
- It will scratch, rub, and polish your fork crown, there is no way around, it's just a matter of time. You would have to modify it for some softer material on the hooks.
- it's a pain to load the bike, you'll need to find a good combo for your bikes not too scratch each other (especially pedals and brake lever contact)
- The bikes are not really secure, the fork can jump out of the hook then you'll drag your bike behind your car, it already happened to me multiple times. I'd recommend adding a strap to your fork.
-It feels homemade and the usability could be refined.
Final thoughts.
I would not recommend it, I would invite you to look at the racks using the wheels/tires to secure the bikes. Also if you have a truck, put your bike in the bed, it's easier and cheaper.
Pros:
- does not block brake lights and turn signals.
- it’s made of solid metal with no plastic parts to wear out.
- great resale value
- loads 4 bikes quickly once you get the hang of it.
Cons: it will rust if exposed to road salt, I take mine off in the winter.
I would recommend buying it unless you can afford a Recon instead.
In general I’ve liked mine for 8 years, and still durable as hell, but still some room for improvement on the system.
-Once you get used to loading sequence, I consider it far easier than a horizontal bar style rack, or roof mounted. You do have to be mindful of pedal position.
-The 4 prongs are rubber protected, but the rubber sleeve can slide down o the prong exposing the steel. I've taken chunks out of the paint on my lower headtube from dropping it on the exposed metal. Ive since hockey taped them.
-My 4 pack rusted badly but I use t year round for fat biking etc. It doesnt really bother me but I get why the appearance matters a lot to people.
-The bikes are really secure if you load them properly. Watch out for the rope path through the rear wheel. If it take a longer path and the tire can rotate, the rope can become slack. Be sure the rope uses the shortest path, and you get a just a bit of tire compression on the bar to ensure a snug fit.
I would recommend it as I have found nothing else as easy or secure. The added stabilizer bolt makes a big difference. The Yakima competitor is nice as well but has a lot more play in the many joints than the NSR.
Overall, the only thing I'd like changed are the rubber sleeves on the prongs. Make them closed on the top to prevent exposed steel. Work on the coating as well. (The 6 pack seems to be more robust and is a different colour)
My big issue with Recon style is that it holds all the weight of the bike on the fork bushings which sucks. I would rather have a scuff on my fork crown than loose bushings. Lolo hangs bikes by the handlebars and I that is the last thing you want to damage. They are thin walled and if they break you are screwed.
Sure NSR hasn’t updated the design but it works and is simple. I agree they could clean up the look a bit but I would rather have something that is proven and works. If you scratch them they will rust but so will any steel rack like Recon or Lolo. I have seen plenty of rusty Recons around. Just the fact that you have had one for ten years is a testament to the durability.
Final thoughts: There is a reason you see these everywhere in Squamish, Whistler and the North Shore. I see 10 NSRs for every one of the other brands. They are still the best vertical rack.. They last forever and are easy to load. Sure they have there faults but so do all the others mentioned.
We run a couple of Evil's in my household therefore the NSR (and possibly the Yakima) were disqualified from our search due to the large headtubes not being compatible.
About the front wheels spinning: Use a small bungee to hold the front brake lever. Done.
1. EZ to bend the prongs a bit for large head tubes or carbon fat bike forks. You don't have to bend them back for regular bikes--still works fine.
2. You can hold a road bike and securely, you just have to get a bit creative: place it backwards cradling the handlebar/stem and bungee the rear wheel. It's solid but it does effectively take 2 spots this way.
The biggest pro of them all. There are NO moving parts... sure it would be nice to have a nicer wheel strap or something but in most of western Canada there is so much gravel on the roads I would NOT want a clicky strap made of plastic that is going to fill up with rocks and dust and just stop working.
My NSR has outlived the Thule, Saris, Yakima, Tuff Rack, Sport rack, and Swagman racks that I or my friends have used.
Yes it loads the fork bushings some, but it is the best rack for 4+ bikes!
If you only need 1-2 the tray style is great, 3 starts to be more wobbly, I had a rim roc that was great for 3, not sure how it would do with longer wheelbases though.
Cons: It Rusts easy in average BC summertime weather, terrible powder coating....
You CAN haul road bikes - handlebars across 2 hooks, strap them down, attach rear wheel, bungee on the front brake, good to go. Many, many road trips with the wife and I and 2 mtb, 2 road. That said, I keep wanting to make a road bike attachment that fits on the existing hooks.
You need to deal with front wheels spinning. Rubber band on front brake, bungee through all the wheels, etc. Easy enough. Most of our bikes have a rubber band inside the left grip for this purpose.
I use a friend's Recon often, To me, North Shore is MUCH easier to load, lighter, simpler, stronger. I go North Shore again if it comes to that.
Makes an excellent pull up bar, and I made a plywood picnic table that fits on the lowered rack. Pretty sweet...
The biggest con I have found is the road bike "incompatablity, which really just requires some thought. Once I train my friends on loading, they are loading and unloading in seconds as well. All about technique.
I also own one and love it. Just letting you know.
I need to bend my prongs out to better fit my headtube. Tired of the scratches and don't want them on my new bike.
I think that a good chunk of these issues stem from human error/behaviour. Yes, the spacing between the bikes could be increased, the tying system could be perfected and the rubber touching the crown could be soften to make the overall use more dummy proof (politely, user friendly).
To some degree it is like saying I would not recommend purchasing this bike because I crashed with it. Well maybe it had nothing to do with the bike and more with the person on it.
My main con about the rack is that most of the time someone who never used such rack has to be shown how to use it properly otherwise they risk running into the issues described above. But people who can't/don't want to use their brain to use stuff and value convenience above all bother me way more so for that reason, I would recommend this rack only if you care a bit about your bike and can lift it above your head.
My 10 year old rack has narrower forks on it. I can pry them apart to fit new large diameter head tubes, but its cracked the paint causing rust and changed the angle the bikes sit at making them rub on eachother at times. I called NorthShore and they told me I would have to buy an entire rack to replace the forks. Kind of disappointing considering they're held on by two bolts.
Cons:
- Minimal replacement components
@notdentist: Fork bushings? There can't be much if any movement while its on the rack to wear them out. You're probably replacing them when you do yearly maintenance anyway, I know I am. Bushings are cheap and easy to replace, worn to metal fork crowns, not so much. Paint worn fork crowns affect resale value also.
If you are looking at one of the big racks, you might as well go full-hog and get a 6 bike rack over a 4, you'll use it. It's not like you'll end up getting 6 bike later, so just do it right from the start, you won't regret it.
I suppose if one didn't read the instructions, or was unfamiliar with the rack - a bike could fall out - but that could happen with a lot of other racks out there.
NSR racks aren't perfect - but they tick most of the boxes at a fair price. And besides, I'd rather support the original guys that came up with this design than a rip-off from Yakima.
Forks get destroyed
My bike gets destroyed as it gets bumped off the rack.
...simply, I wont put my bike on one.
If you have a bike with a long wheelbase, and the car clearance is not adequate for the bumps/potholes/waterbars... VOILA! Your bike is still attached by the rear wheel and dragging your entire cockpit on the road.
Neat feature!
No rack is perfect, and these are far from it. Especially with the added bonus of crown raping.
1) it is not a pain to load at all - bikes can go on in any order and its fast. They do not conflict. There is no brake lever contact so that is just wrong and really an issue with wheel tray racks style racks You do have to watch the pedals on an NSR. With Recon you have to load the bikes in size order or the bars conflict.
2) It works for a wide range of bikes. All they have to have is suspension forks. I have had 20" kids bikes up to fat bikes on mine. All you have to adjust is the knots on the rope.
3) The bikes are secure if you watch the video and use the rope correctly. Frankly, I think people blame the rack when they screw up and ruin their buddies bike.
There has been some silly hate on these. I wanted to clarify my previous comment. I have no interest in a different rack, I think this NSR works great, and for a rack to be working great after 8 years says a testament to its quality.
Although it took my wife 3 years to figure out how to load her bike...
No ones likes to ride with loose bushings as it feels like crap. You can protect your fork crown with a 3M decal and voila no more rub. Also, you can bend the prongs a little bit wider to fit Evil. NSR for the win again!
It's one thing if it's organic posts from people that truly love the product (We Are One and 1Up racks come to mind) - but to tell folks on your Insta to hijack a competitors Pinkbike review is lame.
I immediately looked for something similar in the UK only to be very disappointed. It could be down to our crap caravan-based towball standard (rather than the 2" hitch you can use), and also patents, but there just isn't a solution like this available. If you live in North America and don't want a pickup truck, these are surely a no-brainer!
I leave mine outside in the rain and it's been 6ish years and there's barely any rust
I have a NSR 4 and it’s solid. Buddy has a 6 we use to shuttle w his van, works like a charm.
Bullet proof rack.
The only issue is the paint finish.
I’m surprised that they haven’t figured the paint issue by now.
www.velocirax.com
easy to load, pro finish, bikes stay away from each other, the damper system works well.
Are you dull?
Cheers
Cody is super awesome to deal with as well - I needed to get two 20" baskets for the kids bikes and when I ordered them didn't realise I paid for shipping twice. Within 24hrs he contacted me about the error and issued an appropriate refund. That SCREAMS customer service.
I do use an anti-rattle hitch tightener with it as well though - does not have the slick mounting of the 1up
Some things to consider, both for these specific racks, and vertical racks in general:
It may just be what I'm familiar with, but loading/unloading on my Recon seems a lot quicker and less obnoxious than when we're loading my brother in law's NSR. There's usually some fiddling involved, be that fork mounts being bent a bit to accommodate a thick head tube, or having to position pedals, or of course securing the front wheels so they don't spinning for hours on a long drive.
The tilt on the Recon just snaps into place when you push it up. So if I get something out of the tailgate, I can do that by myself even with a loaded rack. Yep, it's a big push - but then no fiddling with a locking mechanism.
In general, vertical racks are great if you're tall and reasonably strong; they're a bit sucky, compared to a decent tray rack, if you're short. But with 4 bikes, even the best tray rack (I'd argue the OneUp, which projects out to the back a whole lot less, and which has an up-angle so that the rear most bikes sit higher, which is crucial for navigating steep driveways and such) is pushing the weight awfully far back. Unless you've got a rather beefy vehicle, that makes for very bad weight distribution. A 4 bike Yakima tray rack, fully loaded on my wife's Subaru, made that car seriously wallowy; the same four bikes on the much heavier Recon, which keeps all that weight closer to the rear axle of the car, is a lot less noticeable in handling.
But that brings up vehicle choice vs. bike rack in a bigger way - I'd argue that a lot of people are carrying way too much weight on their hitch racks, and the leverage from having that weight so far back makes things worse. Yep, modern cars are amazing, what with stability control and all that - but it's still got a serious impact.
On rust - Recon is powdercoated. After two years (and not taking it off in the winter), I have very few rust spots, and none of them are anywhere near big enough yet to where I'd pull out the sandpaper and Rustoleum rattle can. I don't know what NSR and the other racks do, if it's just painted metal or full on powder coating (and of course not all powder coats are equally good). But the Recon has held up well so far, and that jibes with what I see with friends who've had their Recons for a lot longer than me. In general, I'd love racks to be made out of aluminum. For tray racks, you have that option with OneUp - when we need a new rack for up to two bikes, we'll probably go with that (the Yakima tray rack we've got on my wife's car has not aged very gracefully, and is a pain to use). But I think for a ginormous 4+ bike vertical rack, that may simply not be an option (or at least not one that's reasonably doable on cost/benefit).
On service - Recon is a one-man-show. Cody's been incredibly helpful and is a pleasure to deal with. Definitely takes pride in his work. You can get parts and add-ons (along with advice) at very reasonable prices.
I think the higher price on the Recon reflects the added materials and labor cost (the pivot is a heck of a lot more involved than the one on the NSR, and the steel hoops require more material and more welds than the fork mounts). Whether that's worth it to you depends on how you use it. If the fork mounts are good for you and you don't need to tilt the rack back to get to the tailgate when loaded, it might not be.
I have had NSR, Yakima (vertical and tray), returned them or sold them so I could get the recon.
I also shuttle people a fair bit and the Recon is the only one people don't grumble about.
It is over engineered, but IMO thats excatly how it should be, because lets face it, we all have torn up the shuttle road a few times. ;-)
1. The fork system that holds the bike makes loading certain frames difficult. Evils and Treks have fatter head tubes that barely fit with the fork mounting design.
2. No built in strap system. The rope works ok but I like something more secure.
As has been said the NS racks have been around for years. Good product that needs to be updated to handle modern bikes. That’s what led me to look elsewhere. I found www.VelociRAX.com and haven’t looked back.
For example,
Which platform racks will allow the tailgate on a Tacoma/Ranger/Colorado/Frontier and a fullsized pickup open fully when the rack is in the lowered position
Which hanging rack will hold the bikes on my hatch back while still allowing the gate to open without lowering the rack
What is the weight ratings across the board
This is the second most expensive purchase for a mountain biking family and there is nothing out there to help inform people on which rack would be best for them
I also like supporting a small company that keeps its supply chain and manufacturing in North America. I’m 5’8” and haven’t had any trouble loading bikes. Granted we only take 2 at a time and so use the outboard placements.
Good to know about the rust; will keep an eye out. I’d buy it again in a heartbeat!
recon-racks.com
My friend has this rack on his stock 2015 Subaru Forester and in order to use this rack with Large or XL enduro bikes, we need to take the front wheels off the bikes and run the rack in the high position so we get enough ground clearance (only with the front wheels off can the rack be put in the high position as there are no front wheels to hit the back of the car). We ran into the same issue when putting this rack on my friend's Honda Odyssey and my old 1994 Toyota pickup that has a cab on it.
This is purely an effect of bikes getting longer and this rack not really changing in the past 10 years
You could run a hitch extender to move the rack further away from the car but then this also hurts your ground clearance with the actual rack hitch portion scraping the ground when approaching/leaving an incline
I purchased a LOLO rack because it still has all the advantages of a vertical rack but the front wheels are pointed away from the car so the rack is always in the high position and your ground clearance is maximized. Also, because the wheels are on the "outside" of the rack, you do not need to lift the wheels "up and over" when loading or unloading.
Anyway, vertical is definitely the way to go but I like the design of LOLO racks more for the reasons above
These racks are in such high demand that they're often sold out. Trying to find one used is also a challenge, as they get snapped up within hours here in Vancouver.
For model year 2019 and after, if your rack develops rust, sand it off and use this touch up paint. I tried it and it's the perfect match. It's also endorsed by NorthShoreRacks. www.homedepot.ca/product/rust-oleum-universal-metallic-spray-paint-in-flat-soft-iron-312-g-aerosol/1000655367
I don't have any problem loading it but I am 6'4" and large. I usually load and unload everyone's bikes myself - its easier and I can make sure it is done properly - it requires care to keep pedals separated. A small person might have trouble loading it.
I have never had a bike pop off but I am careful - if you hit the rear tire on something I think you could possibly pop a bike off if the rope failed.
How often you are likely to hit a tire depends on your vehicle. A low vehicle makes it something you need to pay attention to.
The NSR racks are durable - they are simple and maybe even a bit unrefined, but they are durable, I don't think there is much that could fail and cause a major problem. The powdercoating is not great. Every one I have seen that is more than a season old, that is on the vehicle in the winter has surface rust. It is just ugly its not structural - you could sand and paint it, I havent.
The Ropes... I think they work and can easily be replaced - I hate dealing with them when they are impregnated with dust mud and grime
I think the racks that have trays for the wheels might be nice, if they were really secure and it didn't turn out to be pain to use different size wheels. If you have a 4-6 bike rack you probably haul other people's bikes fairly often (even if its a family thing - kids friends)
I would recommend the NSR without hesitation noting if you use it hard and a lot it will probably mark your bikes, it will probably get ugly and rusty. If you have a lower vehicle you need to watch speedbumps and transitions. It might not be the best choice for smaller people with heavy bikes. It is a great rack, works reliably, isn't hard to have on the vehicle when no bikes are on it, and can carry a lot of bikes on rough terrain. Plus what other auto accessory actually makes a better statement the rustier it gets
However would appreciate having some "lock system" to be able to go into grocery store and not to worry about bike being stollen;
Currently Vocirack looks most appealing among competitors to me
I like the rack and I’d buy it again for a 4 bike. Mainly because it folds down. The Recon is burly and I don’t see how a bike could come out, but it is also huge compared to this rack and the wheel trays are always sticking up by your head. Not a negative to the recon, but just depends on your daily vehicle use, preferences, etc...
90 percent of the time it’s the same 4 bikes I’m putting on the rack. Once you get the best order for putting them on it goes super fast. The wheel spin is annoying as others have pointed out. I run a bungee through the tires if I’m hitting the highway. Mainly because it seems like it could cause excessive bearing wear when you’re driving a 100+ miles, but perhaps that’s a non issue.
Thankyou
I know NSR says not to do it, but most of the time it will just have 2 or 3 light bikes on it and I will use a car with a 2inch hitch when loading more bikes. I'm trying not to buy 2 racks.
Thanks for the help.
You can hang it by the handle bars or by the head tube. Head tube seems better to me since it's a weird direction to be putting force on your handle bars, but would love to hear an engineer's perspective. I fit three road bikes on my NSR4 yesterday, by reversing one bike so that the tires were facing out. If I had gotten it just right, I think I could have fit a fourth, but not easily. I've also done it with one road bike and one mountain bike easily.
It has a few drawbacks:
1. Some road bikes are a little harder to maneuver onto the rack than others, just based on the angles of the frame.
2. The bikes do make contact with the steel part of the rack, both under the head tube and in one spot on the down tube. I drape a cloth rag over the rack hook first as a cushion, and it prevents scratches.
3. The handle bars are loose if you hang by the head tube, so they can swing around and ding your frame. I take some string and tie them in place (also to prevent spinning wheels).
4. Some bike's brake cables can get pinched against their frames. No harm any of the times I've done it, but I could imagine damage on a rough road.
All around, I'll probably get adapters when they're available, but it's actually just fine with road bikes!
1) It ruins ground clearance/takeoff angle. Most racks do, but this seems to be the worst offender, especially with long bikes. What's the point of having a Tacoma if you can't get to your campsite away from crowds?
2) There's no way I would feel comfortable hitting a forest road or bumpy road with such an insecure loading method. It's a recipe for having a bike jump out of that crown.
3) No way to secure the bikes if you're far away. I guess you could improvise a chain of some sort, but from a security standpoint, it just doesn't get me stoked.
I will say though that my favorite part about this design is that Yakima tried to copy them with their Hangover rack and just failed miserably, as they always do.
It folds to access the back.
It doesn't wreck fork crowns as hard.
Its easier to deal with multiple sized tires and stuff than the little rope system.
It's less prone to rust.
It's more adjustable.
I also think the Yakima is more secure with the rubber strap and lower strap system. I've seen bikes jump out of the NSR top rack even when the bottom is done on proper tight when driving off road. The NSR does have a better weight rating, but if you don't have an e-bike, non-issue. As for security, these are the same as any other rack for going "far away". The integrated locks from most companies suck ass anyway and need to be supplemented. With this or the hangover, you get a locking hitchpin and then a solid cable/chain combo to secure the actual bikes. Which is identical to what I do with the more traditional rack on our car - the integrated locks aren't going to cut it anywhere youd actually want them.
As for your takeoff angle - the only "rack" system that has a better takeoff angle than vertical racks is a roof rack system, and then you're not going to carry that many bikes. With these, you can adjust the height on them (and the Hangover too) which brings the rear tires higher off the ground. It sticks out waaaaay less than any other 2/3/4 bike hitch rack. It's never been a problem and we drive some of the worst shuttle roads around with this type of rack. Sure, maybe no rock crawling, but everywhere else so long as it's slapped on a decently high vehicle you'll be fine.
If you have 2x the $$$ buy a Recon.
If you have a truck, use a truck pad.
If you don't have 6 bikes...what the f*** are you doing on Pinkbike?
Back in the day, like '96 or '97, I was at a DH race in Moab, down one of the climbs to access the lower section of the Porc Rim. Rough, rocky track. Ryan Sutton, local CO mtb legend, known for his phenomenal bike handling skills as well has love of party, showed up with one of these. It was his mother's and in reasonably good condition at the start of the weekend. The seats were out and we were using it as a shuttle vehicle. He was rallying that thing extremely hard and fast, fully loaded, up a rough 4x4 road to the start. The Astro was kicking some serious ass that day and I was amazed at the abuse it willingly seemed to take at the hands of its merciless thrill seeking pilot.
And yes, Dutch doors are cool, although on Safaris / Astros the window seal does have a tendency to leak.
A sub 30mph fender bender in traffic could potentially cause THOUSANDS of €£$ damage, imagine 6 bikes with an avg of 4k each..... potentially uninsured.
FK that bikes go inside
Said park has now had to spend thousands tarmacing the road