Pinkbike Poll: How Easy (or Hard) Is It to Work On Your Bike?
Autumn is fast approaching and it's time for one of two things; overhaul your bike after a summer of neglect, or cut your loses and sell what's left of it. Ok, maybe you stay on top of your wrenching or are an honest person and throw some new bits on the bike before you sell it. At some point, you'll have to sink some money into the bike that's pulled you through a season of sending. That poses questions like, can you do the wrenching at home, how much do you spend on replacement parts, and are those bits buried deep in a brand's support website?
There are some components on your bike that simply wear out, like chains and tires, but others will last a whole lot longer when you keep them in tip top shape, such as wheels and suspension. A few of those items on the maintenance schedule require unique tools and skills. Even basic kitting out a basic workshop isn't free and although there are plenty of YouTube tutorial videos, home mechanic work can be limited by specific tools. So, how much love do you give your bike, and is it a daunting task?
Every now and then these repairs take longer than expected when you run into hurdles. For example, just this week, I attempted to replace the shift cable and housing that ran internally through the frame. Now, that should be a short task - under twenty minutes, but problems arose when the housing guide became kinked somewhere inside the frame near the BB. This escalated to the point where I had to disassemble the linkage of the rear triangle to free up the housing. My frustration grew when I found that the pivots contained two sets of washers on either side of the bearings, which meant I needed another set of hands to reassemble everything. Long story short, bike repairs aren't always as straightforward as you envision them.
When it does come time to replace frame components, like pivot bearings, or order up a fancy new shock for your steed, it can be challenging and sometimes overwhelming to know how to locate the correct parts with all of the "standards" out there. Brands have made the user experience drastically better in recent years by providing tech documents and drawings online, but that's not always the case. Each company varies with how much information they divulge. Not all of them list the suggested shock tunes, bearing sizes, spoke lengths, or unique frame protectors.
How easy it is to find the parts you are looking for?
Do frame, suspension, and other component manufacturers provide easy access to source replacement part numbers or compatibility info?
Do you think frame and hub bearing kits are overpriced or wear out too quicky?
Often, you'll find expensive, proprietary bearings in your bike that can be impossible to find besides purchasing them from the frame/component manufacturer.
It's just like putting together a LEGO set, right?
When it is time to shell out for fresh replacement parts, there is the argument for spending less on components that are more likely to break, such as a derailleur. Why would you spend hundreds of dollars on a finicky device that hangs dreadfully low off of you bike, destine to be smashed to pieces at any moment, when you could spend less than $60 on the Shimano Deore 12-speed option? Will that last longer or break less frequently than the top of the line XTR version? If you could avoid damaging either in back to back tests, I'd wager that the higher quality pivots and stronger materials in the XTR would win that battle.
Whether your bike comes with basic or premium parts, what do you replace those components with when they break or wear out ?
Buy nice, pay once, stay the same, or buy twice and pay the price?
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Maybe us hardtail riders are also more likely to assemble a full bike from parts so the last question is kinda odd.
But I absolutely get your point! That said, I don't know honestly whether most of the people on here actually ride full suspension or hardtails. Wouldn't be surprised if at least most of what people on here ride could be ridden on a hardtail. If we'd go full spectrum of the two wheeled stuff, we can't ignore those riding with pedal assist. I've yet to come across someone who can actually do a full service on one of these motors. I for one would never dare!
@mateosan100: I built my first wheel using the instructions from Sheldon Brown. I was given the tip to just take it easy and it will work out. And it did indeed. I built a rear wheel and took it to the Megavalanche Alpe d'Huez (and it survived the full week). My wheels may not be one of those you'd sell with warranty that they'd never need service and all that but that doesn't matter. If you can build your own wheels, you can also keep them in check. Brake service, Magura just gives you a workshop manual with your brakes. They're supposed to be serviced by the customer! My current forks may be a cheat. They're Magura TS8 forks. Grease lubed lowers, just a positive air chamber, easiest forks out there
My personal issue so far is damper servicing though. I don't have Nitrogen laying around to charge a fork/shock. I've done air can services, and lower leg services, but still haven't bled a damper, or tuned a shim stack.
Someday maybe.
Certainly, you do have a point about expensive tools that rarely get used. Could I install a headset if I had the tools? Sure. But between the bearing cup presses, facing tools, etc, you've got several hundred dollars worth of tools for doing *one* specific job that's *rarely* done outside the context of a bike shop/race team, etc. I'd have to pay my LBS to install a *lot* of headsets before those specific tools would ever pay for themselves, so I'll happily bring my bike to a shop for those sorts of jobs.
And yes, removing and installing a shock isn't too hard. Just have some common sense and think about how the suspension wants to move and how to fixate it. On the Cannondale Prophet it is easy. I just leave it standing on the ground and wrap a strap around the swingarm and seattube. That will keep it in place when you remove the shock. If you can't imagine what happens with your own bike, at least have someone (knowledgeable) help you think that out before you start removing bolts.
Damper services in Fox gear can involve Nitrogen and a vacuum pump!
"Did you install the pedal on the wrong crankarm?"
"I'M AN ENGINEER! I KNOW WHAT I'M DOING!!! ITS DEFECTIVE!!!"
@kevman : Is it? I feel that the skill of building a wheel has gotten some mythical image as if it is something only a few people can learn. Whereas if you just follow the instructions, you'll get there. Just give it time. A bit like riding a unicycle. It is not a special skill. Practice half an hour a day and in two weeks you'll be riding unassisted. Either way, building a wheel does take a bit of time which is free for the enthusiast who likes to chill and have something in his or her hands whilst chatting with friends and family. But for a mechanic, time is money. And if selling a new factory made wheel is cheaper then they'll do that. I live in The Netherlands and I've got the impression most wheels sold in bike shops are for commuting, typically Nexus geared rear hubs and dynamo front hubs. When a rim breaks, it is cheaper to replace the wheel than just the rim. They do keep the wheel for parts, because they can swap out the geared rear hub cartridge in case someone comes in with broken gearing. So I'm lucky in that respect as new these hubs are fairly expensive but I can get them for cheap, buy rim, spokes etc and lace up new wheels for family and friends. I don't claim my wheels are better than machine built wheels. But I don't need to count those hours as money. Just chill, have a tea and a chat. It can be self-time or it can be social. A bit like knitting really. Give it a few hours and there will be a wheel. You can't go wrong really.
So yeah, the point I'm trying to make is that wheelbuilding may actually be one of those things where it may actually be more worthwhile to do as an amateur than as a professional. A bit like patching a tube.
“$15 for a derailleur hanger!? I can engineer one in my garage in half an hour.”
“Ok, then why are you here?”
Shockingly, he bought the hanger.
Is the next part of your sentence: “as an engineer, with a BMX background,….” ?
As for the BMX thing, they can be a bitch to work on. Try to get the pump head on the Schrader valve of a 20" wheel with 48 spokes. I haven't yet tried to lace one of these. U-brakes and a cable detangler (headset rotor). Hydraulic disc brakes are a breeze in comparison.
@ihertzler: That's what I've been thinking during my Triathalon.
I have done damper rebuilds in forks. I have a Formula MOD shock that has a pressurized bladder instead of IFP and it comes with shock pump for that purpose. That design has the home mechanic in mind, it is really easy to do anything yourself.
I think it is fair to say that if there are maybe one or two things that you don't do yourself, even though you could, you still fall into the category of "do everything myself".
even though I'll service everything if I have to, I will Gladly pay someone if suspension service or frame bearings are involved.
NSK, SKF are cheaper and much higher quality.
I've shared my experiences with a local suspension shop on not being able to find parts for my fork 2 years after it was made & he agreed on having the same issues. Fox's response is oh well, whereas other brands like Cane Creek have gone out of the way to make a custom part on something that can no longer be found.
Since then I have disassembled the damper, located and replaced the 2x damaged o-rings, filled with the damper with oil and the fork is now working again.
While i have always supported Fox servicing, the parts availability and knowledge in this case was limited for forks 9 years +.
If youre gonna own bikes with older forks, despite the agents diagnosis, it is possible the fork or shock my be economical to fix.
For one thing, normal air is cheap and if you regularly maintain the shock, I don't think normal really dry air would do much damage unless if water gets inside.
You better know how to tinker/fix/troubleshoot an issue when you're at mile marker 7 on that 16 mile ride.
Every grease is "better and longer lasting" than its competitors.
It's better to pop out all the bearings and their backings away from the frame. It's easier to get all the grit out, blow dry and then regrease before pressing them back into the frame. If you get the right tools, it's a pretty easy job. Yes, tools are expensive but you can look around and get quality tools for way less than the brand names such as ParkTool, Wheels Mfg, etc...A lot of times, you can easily get the correct concrete bolt expanders at home depot or MEC for like a few dollars for knocking the bearings out, especially if you have bearing that are placed back to back with a spacer in the middle in the rear linkage. A blind hammer kit is also not that expensive from the automotive departments. Plus, these tools can be used over and over. So, it's an investment for the long haul, not just for a single use, just like most parts that can be cleaned up and re-used for a longer period of time rather than keep buying new parts and throwing away still good usable parts.
www.belray.com/product/waterproof-grease
This is on a Radon swoop that has seen 5 seasons of bike park under 95kg, without any bearing service. So I am tempted to believe that good quality bearings have a near infinite life span.
And there's no risk of catastrophic failure like a chain, is there?
Related to @GBeard 's mention of the E (extended race bearing), there may be other options but I don't think they're common here and the same bearing outfit could tell you if they can access one or not.
I know how to fix/adjust it all but would rather pay someone to do it.
why because I'm a mechanic (car) and I spend all day on the tools and the thought of working with tools and metal after hours gives me the shivers/suicidal thoughts.....
I can figure out what I need and most times the regional supplier (Brazil in that regard) has most of it, but they put way too much margin on it. Because there is only one distributor they pretty much put the price they want. Most people are relegated to pat for it since they have no other option. However, since I know what I’m doing and out of the lbs environment (not their fault imo) it is cheaper to source it online outside of Brazil (even with tariffs and shipping). So usually I can find it locally but I prefer to wait for it to arrive since the prices are abusive.
Suspension: adequate is fine.
Everything else: enjoy it while it lasts.
Lower leg and can service no problem. Anything deeper and it's off to the brands (in my case Sram uk) main service centre.
Companies that provide all the spare bits also get a shout-out. Yeti and Ibis sell all the stuff you need to rebuild a rear end. That's how EVERY bike company should do business!!
Manufacturers need to agree on better standardization or simply accept existing standards rather than changing thing for no other reason than to change. Compatibility of parts within the same major brands is now the exception rather than the rule. Making the buying and maintenance of bikes more difficult is not the way to draw or retain customers.
Also, anyone who defines a "tune-up" as the all-out option is wacko and if you're valuing a high-quality drivetrain as being a long-lasting money saver you're insane.
The answers to these questions explain a lot about why maintaining your own equipment in the bike industry is so expensive and time-consuming. "Yeah, I don't purchase new bearings, I get them custom-made for my mountain bike and it's cheaper." Hey Pinkbike, can you please try to do something about why everything is absolutely outrageous in the bicycle world? Maybe talk to some production or product people.
Anyone who just works on their bike at the end of the season doesn’t ride much.
Also, why do I need thousands of different sized/shaped allen keys and a ton of tools to service my bike?! Back in the early 2000s I could strip a bike down and replace the frame with only a handful of tools.
People don’t know how to care for shite these days.
Totally agree with you about basic lowers service (oil/dust wipers). It's so simple that even driving to the shop and decommissioning my bike for a week seems like a waste of time compared to doing it at home- so paying that much is just ridiculous to me. Why hardly none of my friends even attempts it is beyond me..
I learned because in 2011 l had a bike shop shame me about chain. It was a ego buster for sure but the joke is on them. Never went back and learned to do it all myself
This one I agree with.
"I see certain trade offs in different areas. Quality frame, suspension, wheels and tires are worth spending money on. Save money where you can."
If you are somewhat serious about your bike, at least keep some ridelog somewhere to have an idea what kind of service you are looking for and type of spending that goes along with it. It makes communicating with your mechanic also a lot easier. Like being able to reproduce noises or sensations. And if you get certain parts serviced, like a fork, ask if they can keep an eye out for the condition of the headset etc. Ah.. and ask them to ride your bike a second after they done their job.
The hard part is working on cheap bikes tho.
"wash with hot soapy water after EVERY RIDE"
me: only washes bike when its caked in mud
Id been looking for this for a while, couldn't seem to find it on the Fox/Marzo site & finally got a link from tech support there after a long email thread of them not getting my question. Shock-servicing riders, enjoy! Does take some specialty tools tho - and a damn blowtorch…
--- "I don't have access to the necessary tools to build wheels or pressurize suspension components" ---
There's a big difference between wheel building tools and nitrogen recharging systems. In my own garage, as well as those of several other experienced mechanics I know, there is a full gamut of wheel building tools. No home mechanic I know owns their own nitrogen charging system.
Heck, I only know of one local shop that has a charging system and they only do suspension service. They couldn't even fix your derailleur if you asked. If you need a full bike overhaul (which to me includes suspension damper rebuilds), around here you can't get it done at one place. You have to remove your own fork and shock and take those to the suspension shop separately. After that service is done and you reinstall your own fork and shock, then you can take the whole bike to another "shop" for their version of an overhaul which varies dramatically in scope and cost from place to place.
All the bike retail shops around here that offer suspension service are actually just sending the components out to dirtlabs or another suspension only shop. Hence the reason the wait times are weeks long at shops. They aren't even doing to work in house.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tsk3zAZyLaQ