First Ride: Privateer 161 Gen 2 - The Beast Is Back

The seat tube has stayed the same at 80 degrees, although the price has got a bit steeper.

Along with updating the 161, Privateer also updated the 141 - you can read about that here.

---

Frame details

All four frame sizes can be run as a full 29er or a mixed-wheel bike, thanks to a flip chip between the seatstay and rocker link. This adjusts the bottom bracket drop by 18 mm, keeping the bottom bracket height and frame angles the same with either wheel. Another flip chip has been added to the chainstay to allow the rear-centre to grow by 10 mm. A reversible brake mount means there's no need for a separate brake mount for each chainstay setting, so no spare parts to carry (or lose). A 5 mm Allen key is all that's required to swap the flip chips and turn the brake mount around. This design is not compatible with SRAM's UDH, so Priateer use their own hanger, which means it's not compatible with SRAM Transmission drivetrains.



This adjustment is in addition to size-specific chainstay lengths, which vary by 13 mm across the size range (440 to 453 mm in the short/standard setting). The seatstay and chainstay are specific to each frame size, although they're made from the same basic tubes in the factory - just cut to different lengths.

A stout one-piece forged rocker link means there's no need for a chainstay bridge, resulting in bags of tire clearance. The main bearings are huge (42 mm) and full-compliment (more balls thanks to no carrier) to boost longevity. Additional seals between the pivot bolts and frame are designed to stop mud and water from getting to the bearings in the first place. My test bike had some squeaking from the seals on the rocker link, which needed to be taken out and greased.

The bolts thread into the frame, so you only need one tool to loosen or tighten them, making it easier to do a bolt check trailside. The BB is threaded and the ISCG tabs are replaceable in case of damage. There's also plenty of custom frame protection on the chainstay, seatstay and downtube to keep everything quiet. Privateer say they designed the chainstay to run close to the chain, so the rubber protector stops it from flailing up and down as much over rough terrain.

Cables run along the top of the downtube, with bolted cable clamps to stop them from ratting. The gear cable runs inside the chainstay, but the brake hose is fully external. You need to loosen the bolts to slide the cables through (when adjusting the saddle height, for example) but swapping a brake should be a two-minute job with an Allen key.

A full-size bottle fits and there's an accessory mount under the top tube. Another party trick is that it's compatible with dual crown forks up to 200 mm travel, and rear travel can be extended to 175 mm with a longer-stroke shock.

There's no word on the frame weight, but my guess is it's not light.

---

Geometry

Like many bikes that have been refreshed recently, the geometry isn't dramatically different to the previous model. The super steep seat angle and moderate head angle remain unchanged; front center lengths are similar too, as are the chainstay lengths in the standard setting, though now there is the option to make them 10 mm longer in each size. One difference is the longer head tubes (taller stack height) in the larger sizes, which in practice means running fewer spacers below the stem for lanky folk.


According to my own measurements, the bottom bracket height has increased (from 336 mm to 348 mm), which could play nicely with the updated suspension layout which works best with more sag.

---

Suspension design



Privateer wanted to increase the progression compared to the original 161, for a softer start to the stroke and more support later in the travel. Privateer's designer, Dan Hicks, tested multiple frames, aftermarket links and air cans to try and find the limits. His philosophy is to keep some travel in reserve for those "oh sh!t" moments (not an official Privateer marketing term).

As a result, the Gen 2 is super progressive. The leverage ratio between the rear wheel and the shock starts super high (at 3.6:1), making it very easy to compress the initial part of the shock's travel. This leverage then drops continuously and dramatically to 2.2:1 at bottom-out, making the suspension much firmer towards the end of the stroke. That gives an overall change in leverage ratio (the most common way to put a number on progressiveness) of 39%, which is one of the most progressive out there.

The custom-tuned shock ships with no volume spacers; most riders will leave it that way.

Privateer also use an unusually high average leverage ratio, extracting about 161 mm of travel from a relatively short 60 mm stroke shock. Removing the stroke limiter or fitting a 205x65 mm stroke shock can boost the rear travel to around 175 mm. Travel will depend slightly on the chainstay length (frame size or flip chip setting). Adding 10 mm to the chainstay will increase travel by around 3-4 mm. I measured the useable travel on my XL test bike at 165 mm in the standard chainstay length and 168 mm in the longer setting. The smaller sizes should therefore match up with the quoted 161 mm figure.

Privateer sought to keep the anti-squat and anti-rise numbers more consistent throughout the travel - for more predictable pedalling and braking behaviour, respectively. Anti-squat is high in all gears and throughout the travel, meaning lots of support when pedalling. It's highest in the harder gears, so it should stay firm and high in its travel sprinting for the finish line. Because anti-squat doesn't drop off throughout the travel, the 161 should pedal well with a wide sag window.

Anti-rise quantifies how much the brake caliper acts to compress the rear suspension and resist its tendency to extend due to the load shifting onto the front wheel while braking. Privateer have significantly increased anti-rise levels for gen 2, meaning the bike should pitch less and stay deeper in its travel when braking.

---

Builds


The wheels are from Privateer's sister brand, Hunt. They use front-rear specific rims, with a massive 33 mm internal width at the front, 31 mm at the rear; and 28 front spokes with 32-rear. A DH-casing rear tire and Double Down front complete the burly build. P1 size bikes ship as a mixed wheel; P2-P4 ship in full 29". If you preorder before 30th April you can get a free rear wheel and tire in the alternate size.

A frameset including X2 shock, headset, axle, ISCG, and seat clamp is also available for £1,979 / €2,179 / $2,479.

---

Ride Impressions

I'm planning to keep the 161 for a long while to act as a testing platform for kit and components, so I'll report back in six months or so on how the bike performs. I've already had the chance to ride it a few times to get an initial impression.

How does an 18.2 kg bike climb? Not nearly as bad as you might think.

I'm sure many will baulk at enduro bike that weighs more than 40 lb, but it's worth pointing out that some of this heft is down to the burly tires, wheels and brakes - all of which are welcome and appropriate in my view. Swapping to a set of lighter alloy wheels with EXO+ tires from another enduro bike dropped the weight to 17.4 kg (38.3 lb), which isn't too far off the mark considering the cost-conscious build and the fact that enduro bikes are getting heavier across the board. A similarly-priced Scott Ransom 930 isn't much lighter size-for-size, while Darrio's personal Frameworks Trail bike is considerably heavier than the stock 161.

Besides, as I discussed in this article, weight doesn't make as big a difference as you might think. And if a bike is designed to be (relatively) cheap and strong, you can't expect it to be light too. I'll report back on how durable it turns out to be.

More importantly, the 80-degree seat angle feels right to me. With slacker seat tubes, I always want to get the saddle as far forward as I can, but here I have it set to the middle of the rails and it suits me nicely. It's a position that makes it possible to attack steep climbs in relative comfort. It might not be ideal for cruising along the flat, but I don't think that's an issue for an enduro bike. The suspension is supportive and stays on top of its travel under power, making it feel remarkably efficient for the weight. The draggy tires make a much bigger difference to climbing speed, but these should be switched if climbing is a priority.

On the descent, the increase in suspension progression over the old bike is very noticeable. It sinks into the early stroke at the lightest touch but ramps up strongly as you get towards the end of the travel. I haven't got close to full travel, although I haven't ridden any huge landings yet. It doesn't feel restricted though, and nor does it ramp up abruptly so it feels like you've bottomed out even when you haven't - the end-stroke feels smooth and damped and like it always has more to give. And when you have ~165 mm of travel available, keeping some in reserve is not necessarily a bad thing. I might try out some different shocks to see if I can make it less progressive, though.

The geometry is stable, but without the front axle feeling too far away. Much of the riding I have done has been fast and rocky, where it's reassuringly composed. The suspension is very sensitive over small bumps and tracks the ground nicely when lightly loaded, which adds to the sense of confidence. That's about all I can say for now, so look out for a long-term report later in the year.

---